Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Linus on 28 January 2024, 15:37:47
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So after 3 years of stuffing my car in the garage i dug it out and got it running. But i have the spanner light do i need a special code reader to clear it or can i use my carly that i have for my other cars?
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Try starting the car with you spare key
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Will try that, any idea on the carly for future reffrence?
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Probably won't work as the Omega isn't exactly OBD2 compliant.
Pedal trick might work on the 2.2 :-\
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Thx for the answer
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So trying to start it today resulted in 2 seconds where it starts and then just dies, and trying the pedal trick shows 0340, it ran fine yesterday which lead's me to belive it just does not have a Fresh enough battery
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And 0180
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When was the cambelt last changed :-\
If it turns over the battery is good enough.
P0180 is a nonsense code.
P0340 is camshaft sensor. Only buy a genuine one from a genuine VX dealer that you genuinely have to walk into.
If it starts and cuts out, then fuel delivery is the starting point. Anything less than a quarter tank and you need to add at least 3 gallons. Especially if it's parked on a slope. Jacking the low corner and seeing if it will start and run is the definitive test for this.
If the car is level with plenty of fuel, then slapping the bottom of the tank whilst cranking is a basic test of fuel pump function. If it starts after a whack, then you need a new fuel pump.
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So i went and put 17L of Fresh fuel and no difference. I can make it run for awhile by cycling the key after the ecu kills it so I think I don’t have a issue with fuel supply, I think I will bring the battery home and top it off last couple of try’s I jumped it with my other car, I’m leaning towards the cam sensor but I don’t know
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Cam sensor wont stop a 2,2 from starting.
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Then I don’t understand what the issue is, it starts quick no issue but like I said it turns off in 2 secs
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On an LS I would say immobiliser... Have you had the key apart or are you using more than one key?
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I tried with both my keys and there is no difference
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Does the fuel pump run for a split second when you turn the key to position 2 :-\
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Yes it does
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obviously if the car has stood for a while with old fuel in the original fuel may have gone off . modern fuel doesnt last long. although the new fuel now put in may mix and help a little .( it may run better once this has come through ?) if you have access to a fuel pressure tester then it wouldnt hurt to confirm pressure is there and correct .
charging the battery fully obviously wont be an issue but doesnt sound like your problem here.
maybee clear the codes and see if they come back. also check the cam sensor connection !.
can you keep it running by holding a little throttle ?
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I dont have a fuel pressure tester but maybe my friend has 1, my next course of action will be charge the battery therefore keeping it with no power at all maybe let it reset, try starting it if no luck I will check cam sensor. Anyhow does the pedal trick reset codes as well or do I need another tool, I saw earlier that 1 guy said my Carly probably won’t do the trick.
Also thanks a lot to everyone who’s been answering and teaching :) :)
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Oh I missed a question no matter where I go with Revs it’s like it stops sparking or something
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AIUI it became illegal on Jan 1st 2001 to sell a petrol car in Europe that wasn't OBDii compliant. 2004 for a diesel. Opel would have been making the petrol and maybe also the diesels from at least through 2000, since some completed cars could sit in the supply chain for months before they were sold and registered.
I've never seen a Carly diag tool. However if it's OBDii then it probably does work on a 2.2 petrol Omega. Certainly all Z22XE Omegas should work and maybe earlier Y22XE as well.
Have you actually tried the Carly on the car? You might not be able to get all the functionality of a Tech-2. However it should easily reset the P0340 and maybe explain/reset the mystery P0180 which doesn't seem to be used on an Omega. That P0340 code comes on permanently if it's repeatedly triggered more than a pre-set threshold value. So reset and see does it appear again.
Three years off the road and the fuel is going to be well bad. Diluting it with fresh petrol might well help, if you can flush it through to the front. Hindsight I know, but it might have been better to drain or pump out the tank before putting in the 17L of fresh.
If it stopped sparking then I'm pretty sure you'd see another error code. I suppose you could remove the ignition module and check the spark plug wells for oil and/or water. That's a 10 minute job and doesn't cost anything. You could even check the plugs.
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Oh I missed a question no matter where I go with Revs it’s like it stops sparking or something
The immobiliser will cut the power to the fuel pump. The initial prime is a function of switching the ignition to position 2 so that the engine is ready to run if all the criteria are met after cranking. Basically there's enough fuel pressure at cranking to make it run for a moment.
That said a weak pump might deliver enough fuel to prime the rail but not enough to sustain an idle. So there's potential for several items causing the same effect.
A weak battery isn't one of them.
Fuel pressure is easily checked on the 4pots. Anything less than a blast of fuel after priming suggests a weak pump.
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Or the pump might be gummed up with old fuel.
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Or the pump might be gummed up with old fuel.
Net result is the same.
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I will go over the spark plugs and I will test the Carly then I will post results :y
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AIUI it became illegal on Jan 1st 2001 to sell a petrol car in Europe that wasn't OBDii compliant.
Not strictly true. EU cars had to be EOBD compliant, not OBDII. They are very, very similar, but do have subtle difference. From experience, we know the Omega 2.2 petrol does seem to be troublesome with most OBDII readers.
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So after a work week I got back to trying to figure out the omega I’ve now figured out that it probably is the immobiliser. After I checked with the Carly and wiped the codes I had before all I get is a immobileser code. So now the question is how do I fix this? My keys are bad and have no functioning buttons and have been like that forever.
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The buttons have no impact on the immobiliser.
Either the transponder chip has fallen out of the key/otherwise been misplaced or something else has caused the engine ECU or transponder ring from recognising the chip in the key.
Have you taken the keys apart or done any work on the steering column?
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What is the immobiliser code reported by your Carly code reader?
If the cam sensor is faulty then it may well trigger and set a phantom fault code.
As I understand your posts.
28th Jan = engine started and ran, but spanner light remained on, codes P0340 cam sensor and P0180 phantom code present.
29th Jan = engine starts but cuts out after 2secs, the spanner light is still on? Is/was P0340 still present?
3rd Feb = fault codes cleared and now get code Pnnnn?, is the spanner light still on?
Alos key buttons don't work / have never worked.
Given that the engine ran on the 28th then the immobiliser and the key transponder must have been working on the 28th. Did you do anything else to the ECU other than reset the fault code? I guess not. The transponders programmed into the ECU are not lost if you remove the battery even for an extended period, so they should still work.
However if you pumped old stale fuel it might still be that the fuel pump is gummed up or weak.
If the keys are original then the key fob bit might need to have the battery holder re-soldered to the circuit board. And/or new switches soldered to the circuit boards or it might be that the fobs work but need re-syncing to the central locking. The latter procedure is in the owners manual.
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The code is p1614
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Is the spanner light flashing/blinking?
Disconnect the battery. Leave it for 15mins or longer. Then reconnect the battery. See does the ECU reset and behave.
You haven't responded to DG's question above. "Have you taken the keys apart or done any work on the steering column?"
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Nope no touching on the keys and steering column, if I remember correctly I disconnected the battery when I left it
And yes it’s flashing
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Remove the steering column trim and unplug/replug the transponder receiver and report back.
Do both keys produce the same result?
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No haven’t tried the second key and I will try it before, do I need to link them up after or is this automatic? Is it just a black box or ?
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So check the transponder chip is still in the key
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No haven’t tried the second key and I will try it before, do I need to link them up after or is this automatic? Is it just a black box or ?
The chip code matches one in the engine ECU. Try the second key first and report back.
Both keys not working suggests a very different fault to one key not working.
Also does your steering column have the tilt function :-\
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Yes my column tilts
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And does the spare key work?
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Yes my column tilts
We'll come back to this as and when you answer the rest of the questions.