Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: addy on 29 October 2019, 13:13:43
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Car is 1995 2lt X20XEV engine Omega. Does anyone know how to take the bolt from the manifold, that is by the bend where the two pipes cross each other on the down pipe? Cann't get from the top because of Pipe work from Manifold, cann't seem to get a socket from underneath because of the angle. Driving me mad, one bolt has snapped, the one nearest engine, threads have stripped so is spinning, so far only one has come out complete, spent two hours on this one bolt so far. Catalyst has to come off as it needs replacing for MOT.
Thanks in advance for any help. It is driving me mad, crazy place to put a bolt.
Addy
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do you have a good selection of socket extensions to get it from underneath :-\
something like this clicky (https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/am-tech-4pc-wobble-extension-set-553776980?type=shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzdLZzsjB5QIVk-maCh0cFgsmEAQYAiABEgJswvD_BwE)
assuming you un-bolted the manifold from the head when you did the head gasket :-\
removal of manifold should be easy for drilling out snapped studs or making the awkward one accessible to get at ?
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Hi
Yep tried all sorts of extension, flexible joint setups. I just cannot seem to get a socket straight onto the head of the bolt. I did undo manifold for headgasket. Didn't really want to disturb manifold and secondary air pipework, knowing my luck it would start to leak. Thinking now, my give the MOT garage the head ache of removing it. ;D Whoever designed it that way, obviously wasn't thinking about removing it, just like other parts on these.
Given up for today. To cold to be lying under a car. LOL
Thanks for the suggestion.
Addy
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Awful job on the 4 cylinder Omegas.
I have learned not to apply too much force on the downpipe to manifold screws, or they break off. I apply heat from below with a gas blowtorch around the downpipe to manifold screws until red hot, allow to cool,then apply reasonable torque till they turn. If still tight, I repeat the heat. I undo the screw nearest the wing with a socket spanner and the other three with sockets from below on long extensions.
Let us know how the exhaust shop or MOT shop gets on if you let them tackle the problem. I fear it might cost more than the car is worth.
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The extension bar needs to be the wobble type, as suggested above, not a standard extension. A 1/4" drive might give you some more clearance as opposed to 3/8" or 1/2". And you might be better off with a wall/flat drive socket, even though that might be harder to locate on the bolt head.
And are they hex head screws or are they copper nuts and studs?
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Got the wobble bar set ordered, just waiting for them. They are bolts that have 6 sided heads, that thread into the manifold. I think they are original, most parts on the car are. Once I have got the bolts out, will stick a nut and bolt setup on instead.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Glad to know that I'm not the only one who has had problems with this bolt :y
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Got the wobble bar set ordered, just waiting for them. They are bolts that have 6 sided heads, that thread into the manifold. I think they are original, most parts on the car are. Once I have got the bolts out, will stick a nut and bolt setup on instead.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Glad to know that I'm not the only one who has had problems with this bolt :y
i think i am right in saying west cornforth is just off the A1 so if so i am about 50mls south of you . i too are only 5 mins off the a1 & have a good selection of wobble bars so willing to give you an hand if needed. :y
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It is, we are between Junction 60 and junction 61. Thank you for the offer it is a very nice gesture. If you are Ok with it can I call on your help if I cannot undo them?. The extensions should be here tomorrow.
Thank you so much once again for the offer.
Addy
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I'd make sure to use a 6 sided socket, them buggers round for fun and that's a whole different problem !
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I'd make sure to use a 6 sided socket, them buggers round for fun and that's a whole different problem !
Same is true for the manifold/downpipe fixings ;)
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Awful job on the 4 cylinder Omegas.
I have learned not to apply too much force on the downpipe to manifold screws, or they break off. I apply heat from below with a gas blowtorch around the downpipe to manifold screws until red hot, allow to cool,then apply reasonable torque till they turn. If still tight, I repeat the heat. I undo the screw nearest the wing with a socket spanner and the other three with sockets from below on long extensions.
Let us know how the exhaust shop or MOT shop gets on if you let them tackle the problem. I fear it might cost more than the car is worth.
Correction, I meant ring spanner.
If you have broken off one of the screws into the manifold and rounded the head of another, I fear you will have to remove the manifold to rectify matters. If you have had the manifold off recently the studs into the head should not break off, but take care. The screws holding the central exhaust to the downpipe can be tricky to remove too, but as you are replacing the cat section you can grind the heads off them.
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If the corners are rounded on the bolt heads then it's best to use a good quality "flat" drive type six sided socket. A socket that applies pressure on the flats of the hex bolt head as opposed to the corners. There are also 12 point versions available, that apply pressure to each side at two points. Either way you need a good quality socket. Some of the Halfords Professional sockets have these features, probably the ones made by Facom.
The damaged bolt might still come out with a good socket.
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Found my set of sockets that bite into the nut or bolt if rounded, but will also look for the "flat" drive type six sided socket set. Always handy to have in tool chest.
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After applying heat they should come out quite easily. The tightening torque is only 25Nm, it's mainly the rust that makes them tricky to remove, and the heat should free that. The small heads (13mm) do not help, but they are sturdy bolts.
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Well after ages, trying to undo the bolts using heat, they didn't undo they snapped, so took the manifold off. Drilled out old studs left. Just got to put it all back together, then hopefully it will go through emissions. Put two new back metal brake pipes on as the tester tried to clean them, but said they need changing. Then hopefully will have a years mot on it.
Thank you for all the suggestions, and offers of help. It is much appreciated.
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Well after ages, trying to undo the bolts using heat, they didn't undo they snapped, so took the manifold off. Drilled out old studs left. Just got to put it all back together, then hopefully it will go through emissions. Put two new back metal brake pipes on as the tester tried to clean them, but said they need changing. Then hopefully will have a years mot on it.
Thank you for all the suggestions, and offers of help. It is much appreciated.
Congratulations. Last 2.0 Omega I had, I had to replace the exhaust manifold as it cracked, a not uncommon fault. Good luck with the emissions test.
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I couldn't see any cracks, so hopefully OK. Thanks for telling me, will keep an eye on the manifold, where is the main problem area for them?
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I couldn't see any cracks, so hopefully OK. Thanks for telling me, will keep an eye on the manifold, where is the main problem area for them?
is it all done now. ?? if not i,m free to give an hand now.