Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: cleek on 19 July 2010, 21:10:30
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got a problem with my 2.2 omega just fitted a replacement engine from a breaker tried to start it tonight but no luck will turn over fine engine speeds up while cranking as if it is only firing on 1 cylander but it will not pick up coil tried with spare plugs getting spark and fuel getting to fuel rail has anybody got any ideas
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Exactly what parts did you swap over?
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every thing was swapped from original engine except for the sensor on side of the engine below the inlet manifold and the sensor on the block behind power steering pump and the top cam sensor
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Sounds like Knock sensor, and crank sensor plus the mentioned cam sensor.
Well, it could well by the crank sensor or it could be a fitting fault, do you have the facilities to read fault codes?
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i have a small code reader it did not come up with any codes
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If you got fuel and spark won`t be the crank sensor
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if i slacken the fuel pipes ther is plenty of fuel does that mean that it must be either cam sensor or knock sensor ?
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Knock sensor won`t prevent it from starting. Have you got the "spanner" light on.
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the spanner light comes on with the ignition
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Does it go out within a few seconds or stay on :question
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spanner light stays on while abs etc go out spanner light goes out when engine is cranking
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i tried putting some fuel down the throttle body and the engine did try to run but very rough but got codes p0240 p0204 p0202 does this help anybody
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i tried putting some fuel down the throttle body and the engine did try to run but very rough but got codes p0240 p0204 p0202 does this help anybody
P0202 Injector Valve 2 Voltage High
P0202 Injector Valve 2 Voltage Low
P0204 Injector Valve 4 Voltage High
P0204 Injector Valve 4 Voltage Low
Can't find a reference to P0240 i'm afraid :-/
Edit: Found this but I don't think it is pertinent to your vehicle?
P0240 Turbo/Super Charger Boost Sensor “B” Circuit Range/Performance :y
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starting to seem like it might be a fuel problem maybe the sensors are working
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starting to seem like it might be a fuel problem maybe the sensors are working
No...its an injector problem.....as in the fuel injectors...
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the injectors are from the original engine but i did get a set with the replacement engine
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i can try fitting the set that came with the replacement engine as i knew the original ones were ok untill the engine blew up i thought i would use them
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Are the plugs in firm? Is the injector loom plugged in properly further back?
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everything seems to be ok i cant find anything loose when i removed the engine i just moved the loom to the other side of the engine bay it was not removed
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All the 0V chassis connections good?
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if you mean earth connections then they are good i did manage to get it run for a little while throttle working ok but a little rough with management light on switched it of tried to find codes none stored tried to restart it will start up to 1000 rpm then dies does not respond to throttle
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Swap the cam sensor over, gotta be worth a try
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if the cam sensor was faulty i thought it would not start at all if i crank it over enough it will eventually start and as long as i keep revs on it it runs but a bit rough will idle after awhile but the light staying on
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if the cam sensor was faulty i thought it would not start at all if i crank it over enough it will eventually start and as long as i keep revs on it it runs but a bit rough will idle after awhile but the light staying on
it will start if the cam sensor is faulty as the crank sensor will let start,and vise versa
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it is running now but the light is staying on my code reader does not pick up any codes still not running to great whenit starts i have to let it idle before it will take throttle drove it a few hundred yards running hotter than before engine change
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if you mean earth connections then they are good i did manage to get it run for a little while throttle working ok but a little rough with management light on switched it of tried to find codes none stored tried to restart it will start up to 1000 rpm then dies does not respond to throttle
No such thing as an earth on a car....unless you have connected the body work to a bloody great big ground spike :y
Its a common mistake ;D
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if you mean earth connections then they are good i did manage to get it run for a little while throttle working ok but a little rough with management light on switched it of tried to find codes none stored tried to restart it will start up to 1000 rpm then dies does not respond to throttle
No such thing as an earth on a car....unless you have connected the body work to a bloody great big ground spike :y
Its a common mistake ;D
but as an electrickery bod you're a pedantic **** over the this term. In all automotive manuals, they refer to the other connection of the battery as earth, whether that's a negative earth used on modern cars or a postive earth as found on cars years ago.
have a look in the back of your Zafira Haynes manual, all the simplified diagrams show a (http://www.labelsourceonline.co.uk/ProdImages/Page004/frl105_g.gif) even though you don't have a big earth spike in the ground.
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well i have never heard of ov connections bofore now
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well i have never heard of ov connections bofore now
Just think as all batteries are marked up ie postive/12 volts & negative/earth ;)
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hello again i have fitted the cam sensor from the original engine running better now took it for a run did 18 miles management light still on still no codes left it for about half an hour restarted it light has gone out been for a run runs good now light has not come back on