Topic: Bloody speaker (Read 3873 times)

TheBoy · « **on:** 30 March 2009, 18:33:14 »

More of a rant than anything

I have had this intermittent problem for over 5yrs. Intermittent drivers door speaker no sound.

Changed the speaker no end of times, can't believe they are all faulty.

Its too intermittent to be able to trace the problem in the loom (HU swapped a few times as well, and a BOSE amp added).

Best to replace door loom first, is it easy to do?

iainb · « **Reply #1 on:** 30 March 2009, 18:42:40 »

Ushall give away is intermitant function loss in other door systems
Check connector in A post for water ingress.

TheBoy · « **Reply #2 on:** 30 March 2009, 18:45:33 »

Quote

Ushall give away is intermitant function loss in other door systems
Check connector in A post for water ingress.

A post connector is always dry and clean...

iainb · « **Reply #3 on:** 30 March 2009, 18:49:48 »

Very well could be door harness maybe dry joint on one or more pins

tmx · « **Reply #4 on:** 30 March 2009, 19:59:48 »

Rewire the speaker back to the amp??

Next doors BMW had a similar problem it turned out to be the wiring was chaffed and shorted out on the door so a quick fix with heatshrink and he was a happy chappy

TheBoy · « **Reply #5 on:** 30 March 2009, 20:06:31 »

Quote

Rewire the speaker back to the amp??

Next doors BMW had a similar problem it turned out to be the wiring was chaffed and shorted out on the door so a quick fix with heatshrink and he was a happy chappy

Had same issue before I bosed it, so its either 4 or 5 duff speakers, 4 duff HUs, the door loom, the loom from door to kick panel, or kick panel to HU.

VXL V6 · « **Reply #6 on:** 30 March 2009, 22:16:48 »

My money is on door loom. If it was me i'd get hold of another loom as your going to remove the door trim, then that way you'll only do it once and eliminate it.

Dave DND · « **Reply #7 on:** 30 March 2009, 22:39:07 »

Seen similar problems with door looms in Mk3 fiestas

:-/

GG · « **Reply #8 on:** 30 March 2009, 23:12:44 »

I think door loom, but why replace. Just circuit test the speaker wire to inside the car in the kickwell and replace this short section of speaker wire only

VXL V6 · « **Reply #9 on:** 30 March 2009, 23:25:21 »

Quote

I think door loom, but why replace. Just circuit test the speaker wire to inside the car in the kickwell and replace this short section of speaker wire only

Trouble is that it is very intermittent so you're not garaunteed to find the fault. My thoughts are that if you've took the door card and plastic sheet off it's only a couple of plugs to remove the loom and you can swap the loom and remove that from the equation.

GG · « **Reply #10 on:** 30 March 2009, 23:27:08 »

fair enough if you have a spare loom

VXL V6 · « **Reply #11 on:** 30 March 2009, 23:44:31 »

Quote

fair enough if you have a spare loom

IF being the word!!

GG · « **Reply #12 on:** 31 March 2009, 00:06:13 »

so my previous suggestion not so daft

zirk · « **Reply #13 on:** 31 March 2009, 00:54:47 »

If it was me I'd replace to speaker wiring to the door piller.

Timbuk · « **Reply #14 on:** 31 March 2009, 07:17:45 »

Will be a lot easier with the rivited bottom panel removed, the one the airbag sensor sits in.

TheBoy · « **Reply #15 on:** 31 March 2009, 09:17:14 »

Everytime I've measured from HU with speaker end end either shorted or open, its been fine (pre bose that was), so in the realms of changing parts willy-nilly now.

Dave DND · « **Reply #16 on:** 31 March 2009, 10:23:49 »

Do you have seperate tweeters in the front?

Where is it located?

Does that cut out also?

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #17 on:** 31 March 2009, 10:38:46 »

Use Tech2 to carry out a speaker function test whilst opening and closing the door.

I suspect a broken/damaged wire in the door loom

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #18 on:** 31 March 2009, 10:40:02 »

Quote

Do you have seperate tweeters in the front?

Where is it located?

Does that cut out also?

All Omegas do

There mounted in the door over the door mirror mounst on pre 2000 models and by the door hanlde on 200 onwards cars

Dave DND · « **Reply #19 on:** 31 March 2009, 10:47:49 »

Quote

Quote
Do you have seperate tweeters in the front?

Where is it located?

Does that cut out also?

All Omegas do

There mounted in the door over the door mirror mounst on pre 2000 models and by the door hanlde on 200 onwards cars

One of the disadvantages of not owning an Omega !!

If the problem is as intermittant as suspected, the Tech2 speaker test may not actually show anything up.

Does the wiring come through the door and then split to the tweeter / crossover and to the mid speaker inside the door, or does it split in the car and come through as two pairs of cables?

Knowing if the tweeter also cuts out is going to be key to the next bit of diagnosis :-?

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #20 on:** 31 March 2009, 10:51:13 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Do you have seperate tweeters in the front?

Where is it located?

Does that cut out also?

All Omegas do

There mounted in the door over the door mirror mounst on pre 2000 models and by the door hanlde on 200 onwards cars

One of the disadvantages of not owning an Omega !!

If the problem is as intermittant as suspected, the Tech2 speaker test may not actually show anything up.

Does the wiring come through the door and then split to the tweeter / crossover and to the mid speaker inside the door, or does it split in the car and come through as two pairs of cables?

Knowing if the tweeter also cuts out is going to be key to the next bit of diagnosis :-?

Splits in the door.

Direct to the mid range unit and then via a simple cap/inductor 3rd order filter to the tweeter

Dave DND · « **Reply #21 on:** 31 March 2009, 11:08:16 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Quote
Do you have seperate tweeters in the front?

Where is it located?

Does that cut out also?

All Omegas do

There mounted in the door over the door mirror mounst on pre 2000 models and by the door hanlde on 200 onwards cars

One of the disadvantages of not owning an Omega !!

If the problem is as intermittant as suspected, the Tech2 speaker test may not actually show anything up.

Does the wiring come through the door and then split to the tweeter / crossover and to the mid speaker inside the door, or does it split in the car and come through as two pairs of cables?

Knowing if the tweeter also cuts out is going to be key to the next bit of diagnosis :-?

Splits in the door.

Direct to the mid range unit and then via a simple cap/inductor 3rd order filter to the tweeter

So if the tweeter still runs, you can eliminate the connector in the door / A post and 99% of the cabling

:-/

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #22 on:** 31 March 2009, 11:12:26 »

Yep

TheBoy · « **Reply #23 on:** 31 March 2009, 13:02:29 »

tweeter cuts out at same time.

Never got T2 to hand when it does it.

Opening/closing door doesn't seem to affect it, and when its working, playing with cable between A post and door doesn't seem to affect it either.

GG · « **Reply #24 on:** 31 March 2009, 16:59:48 »

to me it seems that wire problem must be between the door and kickwell as the door is the only moving part in the equation. so I go back to my earlier suggestion of replacing the wire from the speaker to about 6 inches inside the car, as the wire moves for 1st 3 or 4 inches inside the car as you open and shut the door.

TheBoy · « **Reply #25 on:** 31 March 2009, 17:30:36 »

I'm half tempted to nick a knackered door off one of the breakers for a week or 2 and just swap the entire door over for a while to see where fault lies. Damn sight easier than buggering about with looms.

GG · « **Reply #26 on:** 31 March 2009, 21:17:59 »

The door change is not a great idea.

Firstly your car will look crap for a week or 2

. Secondly if the wiring error is in the door fine to a point, but if it is in the kickwell then it's a waste of time

.

The hardest part of the wiring jump on the loom which I suggested previously is removing the trim from door and kickwell, the rest is easy.

I need to meet with you, hopefully over this weekend, to arrange tech 2 recoding of my ccr 2006, we can look at your speaker problem at the same time if you like

TheBoy · « **Reply #27 on:** 31 March 2009, 21:27:56 »

Quote

The door change is not a great idea. Firstly your car will look crap for a week or 2 . Secondly if the wiring error is in the door fine to a point, but if it is in the kickwell then it's a waste of time .

The hardest part of the wiring jump on the loom which I suggested previously is removing the trim from door and kickwell, the rest is easy.

I need to meet with you, hopefully over this weekend, to arrange tech 2 recoding of my ccr 2006, we can look at your speaker problem at the same time if you like

ah, but its dead easy to then tell if its the door loom or not

GG · « **Reply #28 on:** 31 March 2009, 21:32:55 »

But I think it is in the middle somewhere as door doesn't move, neither does the kickwell, it is the bits in the middle and slightly each side that move, oh and the hinges

TheBoy · « **Reply #29 on:** 31 March 2009, 21:42:01 »

Quote

But I think it is in the middle somewhere as door doesn't move, neither does the kickwell, it is the bits in the middle and slightly each side that move, oh and the hinges

opening and closing door doesn't appear to affect the speaker, nor does wiggling loom between door and a post...

GG · « **Reply #30 on:** 31 March 2009, 21:49:00 »

For wiggling the loom to work you would have to find the exact wire that is the problem and work along it milimeter by milimeter at least 3 inchs each side of the door/kickwell. If you have a fractured or bent wire 85% of the time it will be ok, but those few times when it moves there will be no sound, and just as quickly it will come back. Bear in mind the movement of the opening and closing is only slight on the wiring and it can take many movements for it to stop/start working, or a bump in the road

GG · « **Reply #31 on:** 31 March 2009, 21:50:58 »

My knowledge on audio wiring is not just restricted to cars, I have been doing all audio wiring for house and car for years.

LFF64 · « **Reply #32 on:** 01 April 2009, 22:22:40 »

I had a similar fault on my previous mig ,it was a broken wire in the rubber section cover pain in the rear to find as the wire was broken in the rubber section and its not easy to hold the cover out of the way to rejoin the wire

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Author Topic: Bloody speaker (Read 3873 times)