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[Andiman]

Update to my last post -

Just realised that this car runs the Motronic as it is the 8V - so I now know what the 135 is - it says the EML light is not working! HA HA that is like the old PC joke on startup - no keyboard present, press f1 to continue!


Question, I think TheBoy is right, the knock sensor is either playing up, knackered or not plugged - but how do I totally reset the ECU to clear all faults and start again?

Appreciate the input so far guys  


Andi

[TheBoy]

The codes will slowly disappear (30 clean starts iirc).  But EML will not come on when faults fixed.

(knock sensor won't bring EML on until 2 - 3k rpm)

[STMO123]

The 61 fuel valve vent valve could be the answer to your lack of power. As you empty the tank the vacuum created needs to be replaced with air, if not, the fuel delivery will be slow.

[Andiman]

Sounds interesting...

However, don't currently have a copy of the Haynes manual, so really don't know

1. How to access the fuel tank - is there access through the boot or the back seat?
2. Where the knock sensor actually is.

can anyone shed any light on these for me?

I have found info on the fuel valve which states that either cleaning the contacts or buying a new one repairs the problem (!!!) - hte former would be preferable at the mo as am skint!

Cheers to all

Andi

[Ken T]

Hi Andi,
According to Haynes, the knock sensor is mounted on the centre of the right hand side of the cylinder block. However the picture, viewed from the front of the car, shows it to be on the left side (!), and about 1" above the end of the starter. It says easiest to get access from under the car. The cable apears to go into the loom which has the starter solenoid cable. You can access the fuel tank pump and gauge sender via a flap in the boot floor, but I can't find anything on the fuel valve.
Cheers Ken  

[Martin_1962]

Fuel Filter - when you have gas you won't bother running much on petrol.

Bulbs - just buy a full set for the dash - not too expensive and worth doing, someone here will have the list

[Andiman]

Ken, thanks for that info - getting darkish and wet here so will attempt to tackle / check those tomorrow.

Martin, interesting idea - hadn't thought of that at all. What do you think are the chances of the fuel filter causing the cut-out / power-down going up-hill? Am still going to check the otehr things mentioned by the guys on here as well. Is the fuel filter easy to get to and easy to replace?

Cheers

Andi

[TheBoy]

Ken, thanks for that info - getting darkish and wet here so will attempt to tackle / check those tomorrow.

Martin, interesting idea - hadn't thought of that at all. What do you think are the chances of the fuel filter causing the cut-out / power-down going up-hill? Am still going to check the otehr things mentioned by the guys on here as well. Is the fuel filter easy to get to and easy to replace?

Cheers

Andi

If that knock sensor fault is still valid (and not old stored code) that really will cause you a prob....  ....sort that out, hopefully other stuff will then fall into place.

Of course, no harm in changing consumable stuff like fuel filters...

[Martin_1962]

Fuel filter restricts flow of go juice so when you need the fuel it isn't there.

Fix the fault codes first, then get some gas

[mark68710_0]

If I remember rightly 135 is wrong voltage on bulb for the engine management light.
Are the dash and eml bulbs the same?

[mark68710_0]

Sorry just caught up with page 2.

[Andiman]

Ok folks, an update!

After sitting on my arse for a few days, reading everything I can find, listening to you guys and dissecting an old TIS that I found (from a previous Vectra that I owned a few years ago) I discovered all I could about this knock sensor.

So I waited for it to stop raining and reset the ECU by dropping the battery for 24 hours and then turning ignition on until all lights (except the EML) go out then turning it off 30 times (without starting it). I had a fiddle and couldn't work out where the cable to the knock sensor went. I d/c the ECU (after dropping the battery again) and reseated it. I pulled gently on the sensor cable and then pushed that lovely (sic) protection plastic over it - and guess what?

It worked! Light off, revved the nuts off it, no light! Took it for a spin - perfect! No missing or hissy fits! Not tackled a hill yet tho... Next week will be attempting that I hope.

Right, found that the clutch is hydraulic - a surprise as I had no idea they weren't cable driven. Got to get it bled I think, may solve the problem. Optionally I have been told that the clutch pedal may be on a ratchet system that auto adjusts and may need re-adjusting in the footwell - not sure about that!

Not much more to do then I hope we will be home free!

Watch this space for the next series of the Andiman bursting into tears and rocking in the corner, dribbling over more financial outlay!

Cheers

Andi

[STMO123]

Thats more or less what happened to me Andi. It was a break in the cable leading to the knock sensor. Had to replace it in the end.

[Markjay]

Hi Andi,
According to Haynes, the knock sensor is mounted on the centre of the right hand side of the cylinder block. However the picture, viewed from the front of the car, shows it to be on the left side (!), and about 1" above the end of the starter. It says easiest to get access from under the car. The cable apears to go into the loom which has the starter solenoid cable. You can access the fuel tank pump and gauge sender via a flap in the boot floor, but I can't find anything on the fuel valve.
Cheers Ken  

Haynes' right-and-left are when viewed from the driver's seat (that's a standard in the motor industry apparently).

[Markjay]

Ok folks, an update!

After sitting on my arse for a few days, reading everything I can find, listening to you guys and dissecting an old TIS that I found (from a previous Vectra that I owned a few years ago) I discovered all I could about this knock sensor.

So I waited for it to stop raining and reset the ECU by dropping the battery for 24 hours and then turning ignition on until all lights (except the EML) go out then turning it off 30 times (without starting it). I had a fiddle and couldn't work out where the cable to the knock sensor went. I d/c the ECU (after dropping the battery again) and reseated it. I pulled gently on the sensor cable and then pushed that lovely (sic) protection plastic over it - and guess what?

It worked! Light off, revved the nuts off it, no light! Took it for a spin - perfect! No missing or hissy fits! Not tackled a hill yet tho... Next week will be attempting that I hope.

Right, found that the clutch is hydraulic - a surprise as I had no idea they weren't cable driven. Got to get it bled I think, may solve the problem. Optionally I have been told that the clutch pedal may be on a ratchet system that auto adjusts and may need re-adjusting in the footwell - not sure about that!

Not much more to do then I hope we will be home free!

Watch this space for the next series of the Andiman bursting into tears and rocking in the corner, dribbling over more financial outlay!

Cheers

Andi

Clutch – friction plate wear or air in the system will typically result on low engagement, not high. Have you compared this with another Omega? I haven’t driven a manual Omega so can’t comment, but I had another car long time ago with hydraulic clutch, and the feel was very different to a normal cable-driven one – it did feel high and ‘notchy’ rather the progressive. So this could be normal – maybe someone else here with a manual can advise.

Otherwise it could be that non-OE clutch was fitted, maybe with different thickness or pressure plate or other part of the mechanism that is different than the original unit - but I am guessing here.