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Topics - cruisetopoland

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Maintenance Guides / Tomtom 520 facelift neat dash mount solution

« on: 22 October 2009, 10:28:13 »

I read the comments about the Police struggling to find space for their equipment on the dash with interest, as I was struggling to fit a sat-nav anywhere except on the screen, with the plug in the ashtray and messy cable everywhere.

SOLUTION:
This works for a box standard 2008 tomtom 520 with genuine dc power lead (just long enough!) and standard stick on window mount.
You will need: 40cm cable tie or stiff wire, number-plate self-tapping screw with black head cover.

1/turn the window mount upside down and push the base in the gap between the rubberised top of the dash and above the left centre airvent so the suction side is against the top of the dash underside and is pushed in as far as poss.

2/ attach nav unit and lead, position carefully, mark around front edge of the suction base

3/ remove unit and lead

4/ using one number plate self tapping screw (no longer than 12mm) with black plastic flip over cover and a power driver, screw between the vanes, through the clear suction base and into the underside of the dash top, so it is held in place by the screw and wedged firmly in above the vents. Fit tight.

5/ flip the screw cover and clip in place to make screw invisible

6/ plug the lead into the rear lighter socket at back of centre armrest

7/ lay the lead along side the passenger seat and drop the plug in the passenger footwell

8/ push a 40cm long cable tie/piece of wire through the gap in the trim directly to the front left of the gearstick, below left of the trim under the ashtray

9/ kneel in passenger footwell and pull centre console trim towards you so that you can feed the cable tie through from the front left edge of the centre console to your hand in the footwell.

10/ gaffer tape the tomtom lead to the cable tie and then pull it back through the hole so plug is in front of gearstick, below ashtray

11/ attach plug lead into unit and fit to mount

12/ push the cable between the far left side of the radio/switch console and the rubberised console outer-edge. Persuade it with the end of the key if needed-leave enough "give" at plug end to plug/unplug.

13/ push all cabling behind trim and upwards under the centre console from rear to front alongside passenger seat and tension until if feels right.

VOILA: a permanently mounted bracket that is hard to spot, tidy cabling, front ashtray/cig lighter unaffected, tomtom unit near to you so easy to program and bluetooth handsfree works well, all vents and switches still accessible and usable. Looks great, works very well.

Downsides: one (invisible) screwhole in underside of dash upper if removed, rear socket is easy to kick out, tomtom mount will never suck glass again as is holed. Tomtom auto light/dark function gets confused as under dash top.

I have done this and can highly recommend this mod; see my photo guide:-

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / 2.2 spark plug gap

« on: 28 January 2010, 11:55:10 »

Just about to have a go replacing the sparkers on my 2.2....need to gap the plugs first.

What is the recommended plug gap on NGK BKR6EK for the 2.2 16v, anyone?

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Climate software update

« on: 24 January 2010, 07:25:55 »

I recently had my Omega into the VX dealer for the full tech2 software update malarkey and there have been noticeable changes in the engine and gearbox.

On the climate change front (don't get excited Nickbat!), there does not seem to be much difference apart from the fact the fan seems to be on more and I keep having to set it to windscreen to keep the windows clear-especially if I breathe. The boot vents are clear, the carbon filter is new and dry, chamber empty etc etc.

I am guessing it is just a coincidence and that damp floor mats (from wet shoes-all carpets are bone dry) are the culprit. I do put them on the rads in the house twice a week...

Any other ideas? In the meantime, I think I will clean the glass again and get a driver's snorkel installed in the hope this cures it.

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / 2.2 16v DIS boots available from Vauxhall

« on: 26 January 2010, 09:47:35 »

Had been told DIS boots only come as complete DIS/coil pack, so pleased about this-

2.2 16v DIS boots available as a set from Vauxhall £16.12 inc vat, 132 available at Luton centre.

For Y22XE X22XE
part number 9195820
"Ignition module contol unit kit"
Comprising;
4 boots, 4 spring, 4 washers

Hope this helps

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Strange beeping from OSR flasher..!!

« on: 04 January 2010, 12:50:13 »

My Omega has recently started beeping a quiet acknowledgment on locking/unlocking via remote when hazards flash-from the boot area, and now this beeps quietly in time with the right indicator/flasher or hazards-but not the left!! Huh??

Car has a towbar and aftermarket rear parking sensors, but not towing at present and sensors switched off (sounder on rear shelf-so not this). It's not the power sounder, so I'm guessing its a beeper repeater for the towbar indicators, located near the boot lock somewhere as this is where the sound is coming from.

Any ideas??

Guessing that it is a towbar wiring issue?

Comments appreciated...

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Fuel cap release not acting on central locking

« on: 11 October 2009, 20:07:34 »

Any ideas on this one folks? When car is locked, fuel flap remains insecure and cap can be accessed by just flipping the flap open-the locking pin is not active.

Going to be parking in some dodgy areas across Europe soon and could do with sorting this asap!

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Horn sound

« on: 24 October 2009, 21:54:29 »

What should the horn on my 2000 2.2 CD sound like-it sounds like its off a Micra!! Pip pip...

Should it not be a twin tone loud paaaaarrppp one? It sounds daft on a car this size.

Comments please...!

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Urgent-please help re headlight inner

« on: 03 November 2009, 15:06:51 »

Hi Have just fitted upgrade H1 and H7 bulbs in facelift as headlights were appalling (just had MOT done previously and passed though). Still very poor and seem to point far too low, even though adjuster in cabin set to highest (works and moves up and down ok).

Just popped in the LED sidelight bulbs and now noticed that the inner headlight assembly is loose and not fixed in place within the headlight unit. I can move the inner assembly around back and fore 10mm without resistance and it does not stay put when left-has this popped out of a fitting or is it totalled?

What do I do?

Please help asap-have to drive 20miles in dark very soon

Cheers

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Three button remote key case fix

« on: 27 October 2009, 21:12:07 »

I had a pair of very tatty keys with my car, one slow to work and both with holed buttons, so I looked for a solution.

On ebay there were three options available, all of which involved removing the blade end of the key, retaining the innards and replacing the case, battery and switches as needed;

1/ just the case £9.99
2/ case and new battery £12.99
3/case, new battery and three micro switches £13.99
all plus approx £1.28 postage

I ordered two
"Vauxhall three button key repair kits"
from rdn_electronics (case and battery £12.99)-they arrived in 24hrs.

Just put them together and the keys now look like new and work 100%. Luckily, the micro-switches were intact and I did not have to buy the kit that includes these-they involve intricate soldering which would be mighty fiddly!

So, from tatty, poor keys to as new in about 10 minutes and under £15 per key-including a new longlife battery.

Highly recommended solution-cheap and easy fix

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Tomtom 520 Bluetooth Nav facelift dash fitting

« on: 21 October 2009, 14:03:20 »

I read the comments about the Police struggling to find space for their equipment on the dash with interest, as I was struggling to fit a sat-nav anywhere except on the screen, with the plug in the ashtray and messy cable everywhere.

SOLUTION:
This works for a box standard 2008 tomtom 520 with genuine dc power lead (just long enough!) and standard stick on window mount.
You will need: 40cm cable tie or stiff wire, number-plate self-tapping screw with black head cover.

1/turn the window mount upside down and push the base in the gap between the rubbersied top of the dash and above the left centre airvent so the suction side is against the top of the dash underside and is pushed in as far as poss.
2/ attach nav unit and lead, position carefully, mark around front edge of the suction base
3/ remove unit and lead
4/ using one number plate self tapping screw (no longer than 12mm) with black plastic flip over cover and a power driver, screw between the vanes, through the clear suction base and into the underside of the dash top, so it is held in place by the screw and wedged firmly in above the vents. Fit tight.
5/ flip the screw cover and clip in place to make screw invisible
6/ plug the lead into the rear lighter socket at back of centre armrest
7/ lay the lead along side the passenger seat and drop the plug in the passenger footwell
8/ push a 40cm long cable tie/piece of wire through the gap in the trim directly to the front left of the gearstick, below left of the trim under the ashtray
9/ kneel in passenger footwell and pull centre console trim towards you so that you can feed the cable tie through from the front left edge of the centre console to your hand in the footwell.
10/ gaffer tape the tomtom lead to the cable tie and then pull it back through the hole so plug is in front of gearstick, below ashtray
11/ attach plug lead into unit and fit to mount
12/ push the cable between the far left side of the radio/switch console and the rubberised console outer-edge. Persuade it with the end of the key if needed-leave enough "give" at plug end to plug/unplug.
13/ push all cabling behind trim and upwards under the centre console from rear to front alongside passenger seat and tension until if feels right.

VOILA: a permanently mounted bracket that is hard to spot, tidy cabling, front ashtray/cig lighter unaffected, tomtom unit near to you so easy to program and bluetooth handsfree works well, all vents and switches still accessible and usable. Looks great, works very well.

Downsides: one (invisible) screwhole in underside of dash upper if removed, rear socket is easy to kick out, tomtom mount will never suck glass again as is holed. Tomtom auto light/dark function gets confused as under dash top.

I have done this and can highly recommend this mod.

Sorry no photos yet!

Omega General Help / rattling from rear suspension/boot area

« on: 09 January 2010, 13:31:56 »

I have just bought the front wishbones and will have them fitted next week, but now have a slowly worsening metallic rattle from the rear of the car.

On poorly surfaced roads, there is a rattling to match the imperfections in the road which is getting progressively worse-I assume this is rear bushes, but any ideas anyone?

I also find I can feel the gear selector shaking about a bit with the road surface if I rest my hand on it-is this related?

Replies much appreciated

Omega General Help / Running temp and diag readings

« on: 10 December 2009, 09:12:41 »

Any ideas anyone?

Plugged into diagnostics yesterday when warm and at idle:

Idle speed hunted 735-780
MAF readings up down, all over the place
Running temp 72 degrees
No EGR detected

Comments? :

Omega General Help / Performance/economy difference

« on: 19 November 2009, 12:00:12 »

Thanks to OOF and some very helpful club members, my 2.2 auto is nearing perfection now...

It has had everything (not enough space to list with only 6000 characters..!) done, apart from valve lifter additive and exhaust manifold gasket being done this Sunday.

The box/ecu updates have been done by VX main dealer and the cat was replaced by a club member, but since this, economy has dropped by 4-5mpg and the car is noticeably slower.
The removed cat was a cheap, one-box aftermarket job which looked almost new but the innards were loose, this was replaced by a good original off a 2002 2.2-the original VX ones have 2 boxes.

When I read through all the "buy a V6 not 4pot" threads on here, I did not get it as mine used to FLY, but now it is quite sluggish and unresponsive-especially on slip roads onto the motorway. Is this normal for a 2.2, along with 28mpg on a run, now it is back to VX cat spec, or is there something wrong??

I am assuming this is a cat issue, this being that the knackered one offered no resistance compared to the VX one now fitted, plus the new updates have set the gearchanges at a lower rpm?
It used to be very lively but now needs booting just to keep going...

Omega General Help / Automatic gearbox gear change

« on: 18 October 2009, 18:42:55 »

I have a 2.2 petrol auto with 96k miles and wondered about the gearbox changes, this being the first automatic car I have owned (not driven!).

I note in the handbook that the 'box holds the gear longer when warming up to facilitate rapid warm up and know about the Sport and Winter modes, plus kickdown etc (have driven other autos plus many auto continental coaches).

How smooth should the changes be? Mine are slightly more noticeable when cold (due to thick cold oil) and when warm the 'box changes at the correct time and can just be felt changing with a very, very slight silent "lurch". There is no slack and the crawl works well, but there is some movement in the drivetrain from D to P when parking, when the body will pitch slightly.

In Sport mode the 'box holds the change to 6500rpm (I know this is done to provide safe overtaking power) but 6500rpm seems excessive and the changes are more noticeable-I find Normal is always better as it changes far too late in Sport and is actually slower.

It is surprisingly good at getting the ratio correct and does not hunt between gears even on our hilly rural roads unless you try and outsmart it with pedal pressure, but it does not change down as readily as I would expect on downhill over-run.

Overall it drives well and the box is smooth and unobtrusive, but the slight lurch on D-P, the lack of over-run downchange and the Sports mode hold to a pointless 6500rpm seems odd.

I did ask the engineer to change the gearbox oil but was told it was sealed for life and doing this would be a big job-all my tech friends recommended an oil change at this mileage.

It is under a good warranty (trusted mate is a dealer) so guess I should stop worrying and drive it until it fails?
It seems tight and works well enough, so I guess the above points are "characteristics" not "faults"?

Omega General Help / Headlight adjustment and brightness

« on: 29 October 2009, 16:27:01 »

I was disappointed by the awful lights on the Omega, so fitted some top-quality superbright bulbs-but they are still about half as good as the H4 headlights in my little hatchback-even though both H1 and H7s light simultaneously. The lenses are clean, bulbs new, etc-but I had these "glass ball" type lights in an Alfa before and they were equally appalling.

Can anyone advise how to pull the beams up so they shine further up the road? (the adjuster wheel on dash is on 0/top setting).

I'm sick of feeling my way along

the dipped only extends about 40ft in front of me/main beam 60ft. Is this normal? Recently passed MOT...