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Topics - VOYAGER

Pages: [1] 2
1
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / CAR SEAT HEATER PAD REPLACEMENT
« on: 27 December 2014, 23:50:02 »
Hello,
As you may know, Omega leather seats have a very skilled design  :o heater pad or resistance under the seat and back. This design creates problems when you intend to replace them. >:(
Since the both seats' heaters were not working, last week, I decided to have them repaired or replaced but, as a surprise, the upholsterer discovered that the resistances/pads installed in between the leather cover and the thin sponge layer instead of laying the resistance/pad right on the hard foam seats. In other words, resistance/pad were not installed in between the leather cover and hard sponge seat. And, he was not able to find the broken wire between the two layers.
I think I will order the carbon fiber replacement pads to lay them under the lather cover on the seat hard foam directly. So, do you have any idea about the below pads that I have found on Ebay to buy? Far from the stripping leather from the seat base, can I use them as a direct replacement pads if I simply hook up the sockets to the plugs under the seats? 

The link could be found here... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181421805638?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks for the ideas from now... :y

2
Hello everyone,
Has anyone seen or heard about below feature already installed in Cadillac Catera?
And, can we do something about our Omegas now that they are on the same platform?
I have tried but, no success at all... Any ideas?

Each remote keyless entry transmitter supplied with your vehicle can be programmed to suit each driver's door lock preference. The two remote keyless entry transmitters are identified on the back with either a "1" or a "2". Each transmitter can be programmed seperately.

The automatic door locks can be programmed (using the remote keyless entry transmitter) for various lock and unlock options.

With the igniton on, the transmission in PARK (P) and the brake pedal pressed down, you are now ready to begin programming.

-

To program:

All doors do not unlock when shifting into PARK (P) -
Press the unlock button on the remote keyless entry transmitter four times. Each press should be held for about one second with less than five seconds in between each press.

All doors unlock when shifting in to PARK (P) -
Press the unlock button on the remote keyless entry transmitter four times. Each press should be held for about one second with less than five seconds in between each press.

(Please note that the unlock button will toggle between the above two settings.)

All doors do not lock when shifting out of PARK (P) -
Press the lock button on the remote keyless entry transmitter four times. Each press should be held for about one second with less than five seconds in between each press.

All doors lock when shifting out of PARK (P) -
Press the lock button on the remote keyless entry four times. Each press should be held for about one second with less than five seconds in between each press.

(Please note that the lock button will toggle between the above two settings.)

3
Hello everyone... :y
I have bought a HomeLink brand garage door opener from eBay. ;) And, I am planning to train this HomeLink device and place it on the fascia for the sunroof control to use instead of the original remotes. It will also look original if I will be successful.  ::)   
At this point, I wonder if our Omegas are equipped with the electrical wiring and plug under the sunroof control cover (fascia) or somewhere else.  :)
If so, it would be much easier other than wiring from the roof lamp or from the lights.  8) Or, is anyone attempted to install HomeLink or another device?
Any ideas? ???

4
Hello,
Since one of the jets is missing of the LH side headlight washer :'(, I urgently need a pair of washers for my Omega.
Thanks for your interest.. :y.

5
Hello,
I wonder if we can recharge the battery while it's still connected in the car? :-\ If we did so, would the battery charger burn anything such as ECU or another electronics? ???

I wish you a Merry Christmas and a happy new year... :y

6
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / ENGINE WON'T START WHEN COLD
« on: 10 November 2013, 20:47:56 »
Hello,
My car has some problems with starting the engine as the weather gets cooler in the mornings here.  :(
At every cranking, it vibrates as it is running but no success. After 8-10 cranking attempts, engine starts finally like it has never faulted... After a successful start or when the engine is hot, everything is normal... >:(
Could it be clogged fuel filter or a faulty fuel pump?  :-\ For the information, I have already had the crank sensor replaced 3 months ago.
The car is 1998, 2,5 V6, Auto... Any ideas???

7
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / LH SIDE COLD/RH SIDE HOT AIR...
« on: 01 October 2013, 20:44:45 »
Hello everyone...
Today, I had the heater matrix changed finally :).
After whole dash is removed and pushed back in it's place, we checked everything is OK such as flow and heat both in and out of matrix hoses except for the auto climate controls. :(
I get cold air from the LH side (driver), while getting extremely hot air from the passenger side even the aircon is working. I can also get hot air from the driver side when the temperature increased up to HI level on the driver side. At the same time, I cannot control the passenger side temperature when I attempt to change the degrees from driver side. As an example, temp is set to 22C for both but, nothing happens to the passenger side when I set it to 23C or higher/lower degrees from the driver side. As far as I know, driver side can control the passenger side temp as well.
I wonder if it is because of the servo's socket might be unplugged by itself related to the vibration, since the mechanic has broken one of the motors' socket guard right behind the glovebox, and upon my warning, he has plugged it in but not secured with a plastic tie wrap to hold the plug in its place.
Servo reset did not work by the way... :o
Any comment will be greatly appreciated.

8
Hello...
After the replacement of the cam gaskets and cleaning the butterfly valve (even if the mechanic did not advise this clean up...), engine has been behaving so strange especially at the traffic lights. >:(
In addition to the first start at the parking lot; while waiting for the green light, engine stops unexpectedly and does not start at the first cranking. After a few attempts, I usually succeed starting the engine but, unfortunately, since most of the Turkish drivers are not so patient, you can not imagine the honking horns... :-[
Besides, when idle, whenever I attempt to accelerate suddenly like kicking the accelerator pedal, engine stops instead of revving...If I depress slowly, engine behaves normally and stsrts revving...After a successful start, idle is normal like nothing has happened... ???
I guess, I will be the first one who can succeed to have the automatic car stop before the first move at the traffic lights...I may be included in the Guinness World Records soon... :D
So, what are the probable causes for this? :-\
Answers will be greatly appreciated. Thanks... :y
 

9
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / TACHOMETER MILES TO KM?
« on: 15 May 2013, 09:28:02 »
Hello,
Is there any chance to convert tachometer counter from miles to km? :o
Mine was originally km but, since it was failed, I replaced it with a miles counter one which I have bought from "eBay UK".  :D
So, I know I can replace the black surfaced readings with even plasma ones but, I have no idea about what could be done for the mechanical metering counters below the speedometer needle. :-\ Is there any way to program the counters? If yes, how? via Tech2 or anyway? ;)
Thank you for your interest in advance... :y

10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / RIGHT SIDE XENON FAILED
« on: 22 April 2013, 10:20:02 »
Hello,
Last night, I have felt like the RH side (passenger side in Turkey) xenon was not illuminating.  :-\
For a better understanding, I checked again and saw the xenon was on for approx. 6 seconds and then turned off itself after a short flickering... After a few checks, I noticed that a light vibrationlike sound has come behind the headlight (seems from the black colored unit in which the cable goes at the rear section of the headlight) right before the lamp flickering prior to turn off itself... :(

As an additional info, no headlight failure warning in the board computer...  ???
Any idea if it is related with ballast, lamp failure or any other ghost, will be greatly appreciated... :y

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / RAIN SENSOR RETROFITTING
« on: 16 October 2012, 09:13:03 »
Hello,

There is a topic about this subject started by Gaby63 from Romania but, because of the subject is old and getting no answer from Gaby63, I have decided to start a new topic related to the same subject here... :( Apologies for that... :-\
Previously, I have stated that I would retrofit a rain sensor as being my next project... :y
We will have a holiday next week, then I just want to take an advantage of that... ;)

So, I have all the required parts such as auto dipping mirror and a rain sensor for my '98 Omega as well as the diagrams (thanks to "gaby63" for the diesel Omega diagrams of rain sensor circuit in his topic). And, I need to know the pin numbers of the rain sensor, since it does not have a plug with the cables on it.

On the other hand, if someone provides here with the detailed information such as X25XE diagram (if it is different from the diesel's diagram), locatons of the two new relays and tips for wiring, etc. it would be aprreciated.

12
Hello,
I have a new project to install a sensor circuit for the headlights so that it can light up at the underpass and earn the "follow me home" feature, etc. Since yesterday, I have been searching through the internet to find what I look for but, nothing I have found by this time... :(
For this, I need to know about the pins of the headlight switch, the other (+) or (-) points where I can find the related voltage (+) or chassis (-) and the other  issues I stated below:
* Permanent +12 volts (headlight switch cables seem logical if I know which cable goes where...)
* Permanent (-) (any conducting point on the chassis but, it will be better to have on the headlight switch)
* Cable goes to Parking lights on the headlight switch
* Low beam permanent (-)
* Cable goes to low beam  on the headlight switch
* Power when ignition on
* (+) voltage from the central locking system

If anyone tells me where I can find the related points to get the related (+) or (-) requirements for the headlight sensor system, I will be more than happy... ;D :D :D

Some of the technical features of the "autosens" system are as follows:
* Headlights on automatically at the entry of the subpass, tunnel and parking garage.
* When it's getting dark, parking lights on and then low beams automatically. When it turns daytime, reverse action.
* System on/off function via push button on the sensor. When system armed, parking lights remain on for 4 seconds and when off, system disarmed with a signal.
* Whenever you wish, you can turn the headlights on by yourself.
* When the doors opened via remote, low beam remains on for 5, 10 or 15 seconds upon demand ( follow me home ).
* When cranking, headlights remain off for 5, 7 or 9 seconds upon demand.

13
Hello,
I have retrofitted the CCRT700 head unit with the CCRT display that I have bought both from ebay, in my 1998 Omega CD finally. :y 
By the way, I thank once again to the sellers who helped me with this installation, because they were Omega Owners members. 
Everything works fine except for the mileage (not kilometer reading) on the display and the CDC2 that I previously used with the CCR600 head unit. I don't care about the mileage reading that much but, being not successful in the CDC2 portion of this retrofit, gives me a headache.  >:(
I know that the old CDC2 works with the CCRT700 head unit, and CDs could be changed litle slower than it was with the CCR600. I have the CAN bus cables and everything needed in the car but, I was not able to have it work. It says "NO CDC" even if it seems it is trying to change the CDs with a clicking sound. :o

I might be experiencing different protocol problems but, as I mentioned above; the same CDC2 of CCR600 works with the CCRT700, since I have seen somewhere here in OOF even if I am not able to find the friend who suceeded to do this.  :-[

So, if any idea to show how to do this, will be greatly appreciated...  :y 


14
Hello,
When I attempt to move the car in "D" position and I depress the accelerator even all the way down, my Omega does not move normally. She moves very slowly for the first one hundred meters and I feel like someone is holding the car or pulling backwards within this period :-/. At around one hundred meters, everything turns back to normal and she accelerates as expected.
On the even surface, no problem but, uphill position creates problems  :-[since it happens no matter what the engine is cold or hot.
By the way, even if the accelerator is fully depressed, no RPM rises and it stays between idle and 1000 RPM range.
It happens when in gas or LPG mode.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

15
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Help retrofitting a CCRT700
« on: 23 February 2011, 13:21:00 »
Hello,
I have been trying to retrofit a CCRT700 to my 1998 2,5 V6 Omega CD in Turkey. I am aware of needing a TID (or another one other than already in my car) unit to get the features of CCRT700 phone functions. I am about to receive the CCRT700 but I do need a wiring and an advice about a display type which I should choose.  :-/

So, since I saw a GPS retrofitting in OOF forums, and he seemed an expert;  :y could you help me with wiring and the things I must do to integrate the CCRT700 and a new display such as TID? :-?

Thanks in advance...

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