Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 31 May 2009, 00:05:26
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Just a slightly belated thankyou for TB
I dropped in un-announced the other evening, and he didn't hesitate to have a good look around the MV6 project to give me a second opinion - and of course some Tech2 work.
As it happens - we were both wrong - neither of us thought HG was at the top of the likely list - but - it was ;D
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After you left, I started having doubts about our diagnoses, esp as it seemed we didn't lose much coolant when we took it for a blast...
...which reminds me, sort out those brakes pronto...
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After you left, I started having doubts about our diagnoses, esp as it seemed we didn't lose much coolant when we took it for a blast...
...which reminds me, sort out those brakes pronto...
They will be done before it's used on the road :y
What do you think - front disks and pads, and a full fluid change?
Daft as this sounds, brakes are not my forte - although I have the theory, I'm not 100% condfident with the fluid change... :-[
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After you left, I started having doubts about our diagnoses, esp as it seemed we didn't lose much coolant when we took it for a blast...
...which reminds me, sort out those brakes pronto...
They will be done before it's used on the road :y
What do you think - front disks and pads, and a full fluid change?
Daft as this sounds, brakes are not my forte - although I have the theory, I'm not 100% condfident with the fluid change... :-[
Get yourself an EEZI bleed and fit it to the reservoir cap, then bleed fluid out of each bleed nipple until clear fluid comes through. Don't let the reservoir run dry. All there is to it. :y
Kevin
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After you left, I started having doubts about our diagnoses, esp as it seemed we didn't lose much coolant when we took it for a blast...
...which reminds me, sort out those brakes pronto...
They will be done before it's used on the road :y
What do you think - front disks and pads, and a full fluid change?
Daft as this sounds, brakes are not my forte - although I have the theory, I'm not 100% condfident with the fluid change... :-[
Get yourself an EEZI bleed and fit it to the reservoir cap, then bleed fluid out of each bleed nipple until clear fluid comes through. Don't let the reservoir run dry. All there is to it. :y
Kevin
Cheers Kev 8-)
Using that method, do I still need to follow the specific order for which calipers to bleed?
Should I also still compress the pistons to get any remaining thick stuff out? :)
Give me an engine any day - I run away from brakes, if it involves more than disks or pads :-[
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What about excercising the ABS gubbins with T2? Seem MDTM and TB doing that with Mick Dundee's rebuild brake failure at York a few weeks ago??
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What about excercising the ABS gubbins with T2? Seem MDTM and TB doing that with Mick Dundee's rebuild brake failure at York a few weeks ago??
Hallo Broocie :)
I seem to recall, that's only necessary if air becomes trapped (by bleeding in the wrong order?) but the Q also entered my head too - hence looking for clarification :y
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What about excercising the ABS gubbins with T2? Seem MDTM and TB doing that with Mick Dundee's rebuild brake failure at York a few weeks ago??
Hallo Broocie :)
I seem to recall, that's only necessary if air becomes trapped (by bleeding in the wrong order?) but the Q also entered my head too - hence looking for clarification :y
T'was certainly done with TB in drivers seat with T2, operating the gubbins and depressing footbrake in conjunction with MDTM bleeding fluid at the wheel.
Probably only because the system bled itself dry when the pads fell out, mind you.... Hope he got the spatter off the paintwork before the primer showed.... :'(
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What about excercising the ABS gubbins with T2? Seem MDTM and TB doing that with Mick Dundee's rebuild brake failure at York a few weeks ago??
Hallo Broocie :)
I seem to recall, that's only necessary if air becomes trapped (by bleeding in the wrong order?) but the Q also entered my head too - hence looking for clarification :y
T'was certainly done with TB in drivers seat with T2, operating the gubbins and depressing footbrake in conjunction with MDTM bleeding fluid at the wheel.
Probably only because the system bled itself dry when the pads fell out, mind you.... Hope he got the spatter off the paintwork before the primer showed.... :'(
Ahhhh yes - seem to recall that if it runs dry, T2 is needed to get airlock out of ABS components? :)
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EEZIBleed is the easy way :) and only around £15.
Yes, you still need to expell fluid from calipers.
ABS pump only required as MikeDundee's reservoir emptied itself all down the side of his car
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EEZIBleed is the easy way :) and only around £15.
Yes, you still need to expell fluid from calipers.
Cheers TB
I presume this is done just by pressing the pistons in the calipers fully home, before starting the bleed? :y
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Bleeding of the ABS is only required if it's sucked air (hence the advice to keep an eye on the reservoir level).
It's a terrible sinking feeling when you're just finishing a fluid change and you hear a sound like a kid sucking the last of his milkshake from a straw, eminating from the master cylinder - apparently. :-[
In reality there'll be a little old fluid left in the ABS modulator block after bleeding but it will be diluted with the new stuff next time you have a buttock-clencher and invoke the ABS.
When pushing the caliper pistons home, open the bleed nipple to allow the fluid out rather then pushing it back up into the system.
I always change the fluid when I'm doing pads, so I remove the old pads, open the bleed nipples and push back the pistons then fit new pads and bleed new fluid into the system.
It makes life easier if you can remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible beforehand and fill it with fresh. Just less fluid to pull through the system. Make sure you get the turkey baster back into the kitchen before Maria notices it's missing though. :o
Kevin
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Oh, and I never bother bleeding brakes in a specific order. Makes little odds IME.
Kevin
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Bleeding of the ABS is only required if it's sucked air (hence the advice to keep an eye on the reservoir level).
It's a terrible sinking feeling when you're just finishing a fluid change and you hear a sound like a kid sucking the last of his milkshake from a straw, eminating from the master cylinder - apparently. :-[
In reality there'll be a little old fluid left in the ABS modulator block after bleeding but it will be diluted with the new stuff next time you have a buttock-clencher and invoke the ABS.
When pushing the caliper pistons home, open the bleed nipple to allow the fluid out rather then pushing it back up into the system.
I always change the fluid when I'm doing pads, so I remove the old pads, open the bleed nipples and push back the pistons then fit new pads and bleed new fluid into the system.
It makes life easier if you can remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible beforehand and fill it with fresh. Just less fluid to pull through the system. Make sure you get the turkey baster back into the kitchen before Maria notices it's missing though. :o
Kevin
after clamping the hose ;)
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Bleeding of the ABS is only required if it's sucked air (hence the advice to keep an eye on the reservoir level).
It's a terrible sinking feeling when you're just finishing a fluid change and you hear a sound like a kid sucking the last of his milkshake from a straw, eminating from the master cylinder - apparently. :-[
In reality there'll be a little old fluid left in the ABS modulator block after bleeding but it will be diluted with the new stuff next time you have a buttock-clencher and invoke the ABS.
When pushing the caliper pistons home, open the bleed nipple to allow the fluid out rather then pushing it back up into the system.
I always change the fluid when I'm doing pads, so I remove the old pads, open the bleed nipples and push back the pistons then fit new pads and bleed new fluid into the system.
It makes life easier if you can remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible beforehand and fill it with fresh. Just less fluid to pull through the system. Make sure you get the turkey baster back into the kitchen before Maria notices it's missing though. :o
Kevin
after clamping the hose ;)
Not essential as the easiest path for the fluid is via the open bleed nipple
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Bleeding of the ABS is only required if it's sucked air (hence the advice to keep an eye on the reservoir level).
It's a terrible sinking feeling when you're just finishing a fluid change and you hear a sound like a kid sucking the last of his milkshake from a straw, eminating from the master cylinder - apparently. :-[
In reality there'll be a little old fluid left in the ABS modulator block after bleeding but it will be diluted with the new stuff next time you have a buttock-clencher and invoke the ABS.
When pushing the caliper pistons home, open the bleed nipple to allow the fluid out rather then pushing it back up into the system.
I always change the fluid when I'm doing pads, so I remove the old pads, open the bleed nipples and push back the pistons then fit new pads and bleed new fluid into the system.
It makes life easier if you can remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible beforehand and fill it with fresh. Just less fluid to pull through the system. Make sure you get the turkey baster back into the kitchen before Maria notices it's missing though. :o
Kevin
after clamping the hose ;)
Not essential as the easiest path for the fluid is via the open bleed nipple
Ah right :)