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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys. Hope ur all well.

As above the TC light comes on. If I turn car off and start again it goes out. Anyway read the codes tonight. Got C0241. Engine torque reduction incorrect signal. Any ideas? A quick Google-nostic seems to suggest that an engine fault is causing this so I read engine faults and got code 31 rpm signal. Having owned my omega for many moons now I instantly know this is crank sensor 🤦‍♂️

So. Is it likely new crank sensor will fix this?

Ps no other lights in, just TC.

Pps fitted a stat few months back and gauge went in to red yesterday. It stayed in the red for a few seconds and then came down and stayed down. I will confess it was A N Other aftermarket stat due to time constraints at the time but don’t want this to happen again so looks like I’ll be changing that again. Will put a gm unit in this time 👍

[Webby the Bear]

Anyone any ideas? 😃🐻

[Doctor Gollum]

Isn't 31 factory fitted, ie always present unless the engine is running... 

Could be a precursor to an abs fault or a momentary change in wheel speed or a bump affecting a bit of crusty wiring at a rear wheel sensor...

Do you still have plastic tyres fitted?

[Webby the Bear]

Ah now you’ve said that it’s ringing bells. Thinking about it 19 is crank sensor isn’t it? 🤔

I would have thought I’d have seen a specific wheel abs fault code if it was a sensor or pick-up problem? I’ll check rear tone rings and clean some sensors if they come out. If not I’ll wait for fault to progress. If it’s precursor to abs module fault that’s ok cos I’ll just send it to BBA for repair 👍

Re tyres I’ve got a set of Kumhos which seem to be very good for my driving.

[Doctor Gollum]

Check the resistance of the ABS wiring between the sensors and the ecu whilst you're at it

Kumhos... They're plastic with a silicon coating... So yes, perfect for your driving style 

[Webby the Bear]

🤣🤣🤣🤣 cheers dg 😃😃😃👍👍👍

[Marks DTM Calib]

You would have seen a specific sensor fault code, implausible signal etc, as crap as Bosch modules are, they are pretty good on DTCs.

The engine torque reduction on the 3.0 is very basic (its not CAN like the 2.6/3.2), just a pair of wires, I assume the ECU connection is all nice and clean?

[Webby the Bear]

Sadly my wiring and electrical knowledge is woeful to say the least.

Is this the crank sensor wiring we r talking about?

[Webby the Bear]

Gave BBA reman a call today. I gave them the fault code and symptoms and they reckon it’s an issue with the module which they can repair. I would remove the entire module with ecu ie remove brake lines and send the whole thing off. I’ve done a few of these and they’ve all been fairly standard to remove. The omega one looks fairly straightforward once the pas and upper rad hose is out the way. However looking at the maintenance guide the job is a complete sod? Or is this to remove the ecu off the unit?

[Nick W]

Gave BBA reman a call today. I gave them the fault code and symptoms and they reckon it’s an issue with the module which they can repair. I would remove the entire module with ecu ie remove brake lines and send the whole thing off. I’ve done a few of these and they’ve all been fairly standard to remove. The omega one looks fairly straightforward once the pas and upper rad hose is out the way. However looking at the maintenance guide the job is a complete sod? Or is this to remove the ecu off the unit?

Just getting the connector off makes you look like you've been wrestling kittens tiger cubs. Remove the and refit the whole unit, then split the valve block/ECU if necessary. I've the faulty unit off my car(I replaced it) that had a valve problem if its any use to you.


BBA are about 2 miles from here....

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks nick. Much appreciated.

I’ve never had a problem sending them the whole unit. They do their thing. And send it back and I simply fit and bleed. I’ve used them probably ten times and only had one where the same fault came back couple of months later (that was on a 2012 Audi A3 if my memory serves)

[Webby the Bear]

Oooookay boys. Bit of a strange update 🤣🤣🤣

So. When my car went in to the red (coolant temp.) the other day the TC light had come on just before this. I assumed I’d got two separate issues. However this morning TC light comes on again.  Two minutes later coolant temp. in red. I pulled over quickly and checked top hose and it was hot so stat had opened and coolant circulating as it should.

Now I do remember seeing a guide about ABS light and speedo not working. Could this be similar issue with similar fix one wonders (ie the problem with the abs module as discussed earlier?)

Cheers guys 😃😃😃

[Doctor Gollum]

Could also be a ground fault in the cluster

[Webby the Bear]

Oh joy 🤣🤣🤣

[Doctor Gollum]

Next time it happens, slap the dash above the cluster and report back