Topic: TC light comes on sometimes... (Read 3907 times)

Webby the Bear · « **on:** 09 September 2020, 19:10:27 »

Hi guys. Hope ur all well.

As above the TC light comes on. If I turn car off and start again it goes out. Anyway read the codes tonight. Got C0241. Engine torque reduction incorrect signal. Any ideas? A quick Google-nostic seems to suggest that an engine fault is causing this so I read engine faults and got code 31 rpm signal. Having owned my omega for many moons now I instantly know this is crank sensor 🤦‍♂️

So. Is it likely new crank sensor will fix this?

Ps no other lights in, just TC.

Pps fitted a stat few months back and gauge went in to red yesterday. It stayed in the red for a few seconds and then came down and stayed down. I will confess it was A N Other aftermarket stat due to time constraints at the time but don’t want this to happen again so looks like I’ll be changing that again. Will put a gm unit in this time 👍

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #1 on:** 10 September 2020, 18:03:11 »

Anyone any ideas? 😃🐻

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #2 on:** 10 September 2020, 18:16:48 »

Isn't 31 factory fitted, ie always present unless the engine is running... $:-\$

Could be a precursor to an abs fault or a momentary change in wheel speed or a bump affecting a bit of crusty wiring at a rear wheel sensor...

Do you still have plastic tyres fitted?

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 September 2020, 18:45:08 »

Ah now you’ve said that it’s ringing bells. Thinking about it 19 is crank sensor isn’t it? 🤔

I would have thought I’d have seen a specific wheel abs fault code if it was a sensor or pick-up problem? I’ll check rear tone rings and clean some sensors if they come out. If not I’ll wait for fault to progress. If it’s precursor to abs module fault that’s ok cos I’ll just send it to BBA for repair 👍

Re tyres I’ve got a set of Kumhos which seem to be very good for my driving.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #4 on:** 10 September 2020, 18:48:12 »

Check the resistance of the ABS wiring between the sensors and the ecu whilst you're at it

Kumhos... They're plastic with a silicon coating... So yes, perfect for your driving style

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #5 on:** 10 September 2020, 19:15:42 »

🤣🤣🤣🤣 cheers dg 😃😃😃👍👍👍

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #6 on:** 11 September 2020, 14:56:33 »

You would have seen a specific sensor fault code, implausible signal etc, as crap as Bosch modules are, they are pretty good on DTCs.

The engine torque reduction on the 3.0 is very basic (its not CAN like the 2.6/3.2), just a pair of wires, I assume the ECU connection is all nice and clean?

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #7 on:** 11 September 2020, 20:41:44 »

Sadly my wiring and electrical knowledge is woeful to say the least.

Is this the crank sensor wiring we r talking about?

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #8 on:** 14 September 2020, 18:37:08 »

Gave BBA reman a call today. I gave them the fault code and symptoms and they reckon it’s an issue with the module which they can repair. I would remove the entire module with ecu ie remove brake lines and send the whole thing off. I’ve done a few of these and they’ve all been fairly standard to remove. The omega one looks fairly straightforward once the pas and upper rad hose is out the way. However looking at the maintenance guide the job is a complete sod? Or is this to remove the ecu off the unit?

Nick W · « **Reply #9 on:** 14 September 2020, 19:05:31 »

Quote from: Webby the Bear on 14 September 2020, 18:37:08

Gave BBA reman a call today. I gave them the fault code and symptoms and they reckon it’s an issue with the module which they can repair. I would remove the entire module with ecu ie remove brake lines and send the whole thing off. I’ve done a few of these and they’ve all been fairly standard to remove. The omega one looks fairly straightforward once the pas and upper rad hose is out the way. However looking at the maintenance guide the job is a complete sod? Or is this to remove the ecu off the unit?

Just getting the connector off makes you look like you've been wrestling ~~kittens~~ tiger cubs. Remove the and refit the whole unit, then split the valve block/ECU if necessary. I've the faulty unit off my car(I replaced it) that had a valve problem if its any use to you.

BBA are about 2 miles from here....

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #10 on:** 14 September 2020, 19:21:25 »

Thanks nick. Much appreciated.

I’ve never had a problem sending them the whole unit. They do their thing. And send it back and I simply fit and bleed. I’ve used them probably ten times and only had one where the same fault came back couple of months later (that was on a 2012 Audi A3 if my memory serves)

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #11 on:** 16 September 2020, 17:43:11 »

Oooookay boys. Bit of a strange update 🤣🤣🤣

So. When my car went in to the red (coolant temp.) the other day the TC light had come on just before this. I assumed I’d got two separate issues. However this morning TC light comes on again. Two minutes later coolant temp. in red. I pulled over quickly and checked top hose and it was hot so stat had opened and coolant circulating as it should.

Now I do remember seeing a guide about ABS light and speedo not working. Could this be similar issue with similar fix one wonders (ie the problem with the abs module as discussed earlier?)

Cheers guys 😃😃😃

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #12 on:** 16 September 2020, 17:46:00 »

Could also be a ground fault in the cluster $:-\$

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #13 on:** 16 September 2020, 19:45:19 »

Oh joy 🤣🤣🤣

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #14 on:** 16 September 2020, 21:04:12 »

Next time it happens, slap the dash above the cluster and report back

henryd · « **Reply #15 on:** 17 September 2020, 10:08:44 »

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 16 September 2020, 21:04:12

Next time it happens, slap the dash above the cluster and report back

Getting all technical now

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 September 2020, 10:15:15 »

It will prove the fault without ripping the dash apart.

Probably best that he stops first though

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #17 on:** 17 September 2020, 21:54:38 »

🤣🤣🤣 ok cheers boys 😘😘😘

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #18 on:** 21 September 2020, 07:31:18 »

Gooooood morning boys. Ok so just got to work. En route the TC light came on.... followed immediately by coolant gauge going in to the red and staying there. I smashed fek out of the dash 🤣 and tapped on the gauges as hard as I dare. No change. Got to work. Left it running. Popped bonnet and top hose hot and fans running so I’m confident it hasn’t actually overheated. I switched car off and straight back on again. Temp goes to a perfect 85 🤣 and no TC light.

It’s got to be gauge issue surely? The only things that come together with TC and coolant is the cluster?

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #19 on:** 21 September 2020, 08:25:05 »

Cluster ground fault. Possibly condensation related if it only happens cold...

Get the cluster out and have a look

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #20 on:** 21 September 2020, 13:10:57 »

Cheers dg 👍👍👍

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #21 on:** 22 September 2020, 20:07:11 »

So to get the cluster out is it centre air vents out, centre vent housing, three screws and pull it to the left and disconnect connectors?

dave the builder · « **Reply #22 on:** 22 September 2020, 20:42:47 »

somewhere on here there's a guide,which i copied to a word doc....

"Remove the two centre air vents (I use a couple of butter knives) by levering gently on either end of them to pop them out, some times made easier by pointing the vents fully down.

Remove the two screws exposed once the vents are removed and extract the vent assembly.

Remove the screw securing the left had end of the instrument panel.

Tilt the steering wheel fully down (on non adjustable columns you need to remove the upper steering wheel cowl by removing the screws which can be accessed with the steering wheel in the 9 Oclock and then 3 Oclock positions) and then remove the screw securing the bottom of the instrument panel.

Grasp the left had end of the panel and pull forward, then reach in behind to release the MID/TID/GID/CID connector(s) (the grey type connector has a cam locking system which needs to be release and rotated through 90 degress, the yellow type connector has a black plastic lock which needs to be slid outwards).

The panel then simply pops out."

credit to the original author

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #23 on:** 22 September 2020, 20:53:10 »

Spot on. Cheers dtb 😃😃😃👍👍👍

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #24 on:** 24 September 2020, 19:19:46 »

Ok guys, so after a very busy day working on big L200s 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ I finally got round to getting cluster out. I’ve just had my dinner and I’m now sat down chilling looking over it. I’m no electrical expert so you’ll have to help me out here. The only thing that looks suspicious is a little mark where the green bit looks like it’s disappeared and a small bit of copper can be seen and there’s a little area of what looks like white powder across it. Very small approx. 6mm and is right by this little red cylindrical thing which I’m guessing is maybe an in-line fuse? No idea 🤣🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Any ideas 😃😃😃

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #25 on:** 24 September 2020, 20:02:32 »

Can you hold it up a bit?

Can't quite see it from here...

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #26 on:** 24 September 2020, 20:33:06 »

🤣 pm sent

I’ve found out the thing I’m talking about is a resistor. Apparently 🤷‍♂️

I’ve cleaned the area up and it seems to have restored the connection. Visually anyway. I’ll bang it back in and see what happens I think 😃

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #27 on:** 24 September 2020, 20:34:13 »

Actually........if I put a multimeter either side of the area that will show me if I have continuity 🤔🤔🤔🤔

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #28 on:** 24 September 2020, 21:23:26 »

Have replied via email

But basically there is a stain in the laminate where the resistor is soldered on and there's also some damage to the ribbon just above it... Looks like the laminate has rubbed through.

Ping the pictures across to BBA or similar and see what they say re repairing it

Otherwise you're after a new cluster, Facelift V6 and ideally a saloon to keep the fuel gauge accurate...

Webby the Bear · « **Reply #29 on:** 24 September 2020, 21:55:43 »

As ever thanks very much for ur help Al. I’m glad you know what these components are called too 🤣🤣🤣 😃😃😃😃👍👍👍

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