91
Omega General Help / Re: water leak
« on: 06 July 2015, 20:47:41 »
Bit easier to do from underneath - if you can get it on a ramp/pit
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92
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 Omega CD Auto, to stall or not to stall.
« on: 05 July 2015, 16:23:20 »
Really need to know what the actual Lamba faults were (heater, signal, operation) and which Lamba. 
Also where is he getting the rich reading from Lamba 1 or 2 or SHRTFT1 or LONGFT1 and/or the code for the rich reading (eg P0107 - fuel trim)
for example if SHRTFT1 rich then Lamba1 would be reading Lean (and this is an average so gets worse) and the Lamba faults could have been down to mixture being out of range for them at some time and storing the code. So dont go looking for a duff sensor yet.
And to top it all
there is some discussion on't'internet about the new fuel mixtures that are around and the effect they are having on engines so maybe keep in mind if the problem happens when you buy from a particular supplier or stick to just one for a while. Some consensus on here about not using supermarket fuels and the V6'ers will sing the the praises of Shell VPower but they have 2 more hungry cylinders to feed 
If your interested I am currently trying to get to the bottom of a weird problem with my "desi" albeit not stalling but fuel related and been on a wild goose chase to resolve, see here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130904.0
edit:- need to be short and succinct like TB
Also where is he getting the rich reading from Lamba 1 or 2 or SHRTFT1 or LONGFT1 and/or the code for the rich reading (eg P0107 - fuel trim)
for example if SHRTFT1 rich then Lamba1 would be reading Lean (and this is an average so gets worse) and the Lamba faults could have been down to mixture being out of range for them at some time and storing the code. So dont go looking for a duff sensor yet.
And to top it all
there is some discussion on't'internet about the new fuel mixtures that are around and the effect they are having on engines so maybe keep in mind if the problem happens when you buy from a particular supplier or stick to just one for a while. Some consensus on here about not using supermarket fuels and the V6'ers will sing the the praises of Shell VPower but they have 2 more hungry cylinders to feed If your interested I am currently trying to get to the bottom of a weird problem with my "desi" albeit not stalling but fuel related and been on a wild goose chase to resolve, see here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130904.0
edit:- need to be short and succinct like TB
93
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 Omega CD Auto, to stall or not to stall.
« on: 04 July 2015, 20:00:43 »
This is the breathers/throttle body guide http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90528.0 and would suggest you do carry this out at some time, BUT.
What may be causing the stall is the breather hole below the butterfly in the throttle body (Pic 12) being blocked/restricted and this can be tested and cleared without removing the TB.
In Pic 8 there is a blue arrow indicating the pipe that's connected to this hole that comes from the cam cover. If you remove the pipe from the cam cover and with the engine running check for a strong suction through the pipe, put finger on end. If there, hole is open and not the problem
If the hole is restricted (weak suction) or blocked then this can be cleared as suggested in the guide with a piece of wire or drill bit but by inserting gently through the pipe connection on the TB. The length of the wire/drill should be at least twice as long as the brass pipe connector and don't let it go to far in or get stuck, gentle pressure should clear it.
HTH
Phil
What may be causing the stall is the breather hole below the butterfly in the throttle body (Pic 12) being blocked/restricted and this can be tested and cleared without removing the TB.
In Pic 8 there is a blue arrow indicating the pipe that's connected to this hole that comes from the cam cover. If you remove the pipe from the cam cover and with the engine running check for a strong suction through the pipe, put finger on end. If there, hole is open and not the problem
If the hole is restricted (weak suction) or blocked then this can be cleared as suggested in the guide with a piece of wire or drill bit but by inserting gently through the pipe connection on the TB. The length of the wire/drill should be at least twice as long as the brass pipe connector and don't let it go to far in or get stuck, gentle pressure should clear it.
HTH
Phil
94
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: wanted accelerator pedal 90572523
« on: 03 July 2015, 22:52:16 »Accelerator cable pedal mate
Ah. OK. The one i've got is probably the wrong one
God luck
95
Omega General Help / Re: Auto Gearbox Problems - 2.2. 16V
« on: 03 July 2015, 22:48:41 »
Coil pack can be sensitive to temp, also, the rubber "boots" can break down and cause the spark to "leak" away. Check for cracking or bits missing, these can be replaced and reasonably cheap from GM
£57 seems cheap for a cam sensor from a GM stealer, well done
Reading your earlier post you mentioned coolant loss. Is this still occurring? as this along with a missfire can be a sign of the head gasket failing. Under certain circumstances HG failing can show itself as the engine warms and very quickly gets worse. This happened to me when I ignored coolant loss and misfire once.
£57 seems cheap for a cam sensor from a GM stealer, well done
Reading your earlier post you mentioned coolant loss. Is this still occurring? as this along with a missfire can be a sign of the head gasket failing. Under certain circumstances HG failing can show itself as the engine warms and very quickly gets worse. This happened to me when I ignored coolant loss and misfire once.
96
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: wanted accelerator pedal 90572523
« on: 03 July 2015, 21:50:45 »Sensor?
The sensor is the round bit with the wires, it can be separate from the pedal
Suppose I should ask if it's Drive By Wire
97
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: wanted accelerator pedal 90572523
« on: 02 July 2015, 19:14:10 »
do you want just the pedal or the sensor as well ?
99
Omega General Help / Re: P1555 error - Tried everything
« on: 28 June 2015, 15:53:21 »
Update - bit involved, but this is
ANY comments would be appreciated (except STMO saying get rid and get an Astra)
Had a long, 3hr, session with the LPG guy and his Autel DS708 reader on the car with his LPG software monitoring as well
Came to a couple of conclusions with what we found
Car stationary, Engine at full temp and only looked at data after fan had gone off, running on LPG and Petrol
this error, P1555 (throttle implausible signal), is a complete red herring
probably the only error the ECU can give with the data it is getting
the ecu is erroring ONLY under medium load (~2000rpm), tickover and full load appears to be giving normal readings and no OL
@2000rpm FUELSYS1 (O2 loop) initially goes OL_FAULT (no spanner) and if you immediately read pending codes there is a P0170 (Fuel trim)
@2000rpm P1555 seems to replace
P0170 as a pending code only after OL_FAULT is on for longer and SHRTFT1 holding at -25%
The spanner light does not always come on even when either code is stored - probably because it's pending and needs to persist
Used the Autel's test process and only reported A/C fault (no gas) and stereo (different one)
So its a fuel trim error, not really a surprise, but its NOT the throttle
LTRMFT1 has varied from 5.5% to 7.7% over the week on petrol only. Was at 11.7% before that. Stayed At 7.0% during the tests
SHRTFT1 between -6.5% and 0.6% at tickover
@2000rpm SHRTFT1 rises to 8% and starts to fall until FUELSYS1 goes OL_FAULT and then falls to 0.0% (0.6 to -0.6)
B1S1 has been changed and appears to be operating correctly @2000rpm (0.095v to 0.855v) when CL
MAF changed back to original (GM) and appears to be ok (2.9 to 3.1 g/s @tickover) and IAT changing as expected (24 - 49c)
@2000rpm B1S2 holding at RICH all the time (0.525v to 0.625v)
B1S2 changes to LEAN (~0.300v) when revs taken off but reverts back to RICH (0.625v) almost immediately and stays there during tickover
Previous test have confirmed no vac leaks to atmosphere
Clamping pipes from cam cover (air after MAF) causes immediate change in SHRTFT1 (-25%), so not them ?
Coil pack changed - just because I can - no change
So @ 2000rpm assuming no additional air at inlet but over fueling at exhaust
Cracked exhaust manifold ? replaced no change
Cat blocked or knackered ? - cataclean put through in march for MOT which passed emissions - but still suspect
B1S2 not operating correctly even though seems ok ? Have changed this (off old MIG) but tempted to replace with original or new
Do not suspect the plugs but will be changing them soon
Had wild thoughts such as high sump pressure feeding back through cam cover(rings) or bad valve stem seal doing same
#ConfusedofRochdale
ANY comments would be appreciated (except STMO saying get rid and get an Astra
)Had a long, 3hr, session with the LPG guy and his Autel DS708 reader on the car with his LPG software monitoring as well
Came to a couple of conclusions with what we found
Car stationary, Engine at full temp and only looked at data after fan had gone off, running on LPG and Petrol
this error, P1555 (throttle implausible signal), is a complete red herring
probably the only error the ECU can give with the data it is gettingthe ecu is erroring ONLY under medium load (~2000rpm), tickover and full load appears to be giving normal readings and no OL
@2000rpm FUELSYS1 (O2 loop) initially goes OL_FAULT (no spanner) and if you immediately read pending codes there is a P0170 (Fuel trim)
@2000rpm P1555 seems to replace
P0170 as a pending code only after OL_FAULT is on for longer and SHRTFT1 holding at -25%The spanner light does not always come on even when either code is stored - probably because it's pending and needs to persist
Used the Autel's test process and only reported A/C fault (no gas) and stereo (different one)
So its a fuel trim error, not really a surprise, but its NOT the throttle
LTRMFT1 has varied from 5.5% to 7.7% over the week on petrol only. Was at 11.7% before that. Stayed At 7.0% during the tests
SHRTFT1 between -6.5% and 0.6% at tickover
@2000rpm SHRTFT1 rises to 8% and starts to fall until FUELSYS1 goes OL_FAULT and then falls to 0.0% (0.6 to -0.6)
B1S1 has been changed and appears to be operating correctly @2000rpm (0.095v to 0.855v) when CL
MAF changed back to original (GM) and appears to be ok (2.9 to 3.1 g/s @tickover) and IAT changing as expected (24 - 49c)
@2000rpm B1S2 holding at RICH all the time (0.525v to 0.625v)
B1S2 changes to LEAN (~0.300v) when revs taken off but reverts back to RICH (0.625v) almost immediately and stays there during tickover
Previous test have confirmed no vac leaks to atmosphere
Clamping pipes from cam cover (air after MAF) causes immediate change in SHRTFT1 (-25%), so not them ?
Coil pack changed - just because I can - no change
So @ 2000rpm assuming no additional air at inlet but over fueling at exhaust
Cracked exhaust manifold ? replaced no change
Cat blocked or knackered ? - cataclean put through in march for MOT which passed emissions - but still suspect
B1S2 not operating correctly even though seems ok ? Have changed this (off old MIG) but tempted to replace with original or new
Do not suspect the plugs but will be changing them soon
Had wild thoughts such as high sump pressure feeding back through cam cover(rings) or bad valve stem seal doing same
#ConfusedofRochdale
100
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 Sounding rough for a bit, fine after few mins ?????
« on: 28 June 2015, 12:31:52 »Thank you all for sound advice
Will check her out Saturday give breathers clean and check manifold. Any guide on OFF for breathers on 2.2 (as mine is the V6)
Hopefully I shall have her running sweet for when my dad gets out of hospital.
I shall enjoy the vast vacant and unused space under the bonnet then Saturday when working on his car due to the 2 missing Cylinders.
Cheers. Need torx socketany idea what size ? Throttle body on inspection is grubby and black and oiley under butterfly.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90528.0 there you go
Normal for gunge in throttle body, the important bit is making sure the small hole is clear and no blockage in the pipes, the rest is just good maintenance. You can do it in the car, without disconnecting the coolant pipes. Thing is all these things are good maintenance for economy and emissions and not for cold, rough running
I still would not expecting any resolution of the rough running on cold until new cam sensor and also pls note that the EGR is more influential during the warming period
Good luck
Phil
101
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 Sounding rough for a bit, fine after few mins ?????
« on: 26 June 2015, 22:40:34 »Thank you all for sound advice
Will check her out Saturday give breathers clean and check manifold. Any guide on OFF for breathers on 2.2 (as mine is the V6
Hopefully I shall have her running sweet for when my dad gets out of hospital
I shall enjoy the vast vacant and unused space under the bonnet then Saturday when working on his car due to the 2 missing Cylinders
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90528.0 there you go
102
Omega General Help / Re: Auto Gearbox Problems - 2.2. 16V
« on: 26 June 2015, 22:32:20 »Could the OP be refering to the auxilliary belt?, as the Cam belt is not visible without some dismantling & he said he is not up to changing the Cam sensor himself atm. So perhaps the Auxilliary belt tensioner is loose/fubar?
There again, this wouldn't cause overheating as the water pump is Cambelt driven
Assumed he is referring to cam belt as changing cam sensor needs cover off. But you could be right, we will see I guess
103
Omega General Help / Re: Auto Gearbox Problems - 2.2. 16V
« on: 26 June 2015, 21:48:54 »
Misalignment of the cam belt would not normally be sensitive to changes due to running temp of the engine - so a bit of a red herring. This is more likely to be the sensor
The timing belt being "slack" is an issue as too slack could cause it to jump a tooth.
The important positions to look at the tension in the belt is between the exhaust cam pulley and the crank pulley as this is where the pull of the belt occurs. IME this is where there should be hardly any "flex" of the cam belt and also between the cam pulleys where there should be none.
Checking TDC (Top Dead Centre) alignment is relatively simple.
With the hand Brake on, ignition off and in neutral, use a ring spanner to turn the engine (clockwise looking at the engine) on the crank pulley centre bolt until both cam pulley markers are aligned with the markers on the back plate
Picture of markers but not aligned in this
Then look at the crank pulley and the slot on the pulley edge should be in-line with the pin coming from the block. If so Cam belt is aligned
Fixing any misalignment or lack of tension is probably best resolved by removing the belt and refitting correctly. That's what i would do anyway
HTH
Phil
The timing belt being "slack" is an issue as too slack could cause it to jump a tooth.
The important positions to look at the tension in the belt is between the exhaust cam pulley and the crank pulley as this is where the pull of the belt occurs. IME this is where there should be hardly any "flex" of the cam belt and also between the cam pulleys where there should be none.
Checking TDC (Top Dead Centre) alignment is relatively simple.
With the hand Brake on, ignition off and in neutral, use a ring spanner to turn the engine (clockwise looking at the engine) on the crank pulley centre bolt until both cam pulley markers are aligned with the markers on the back plate
Picture of markers but not aligned in this
Then look at the crank pulley and the slot on the pulley edge should be in-line with the pin coming from the block. If so Cam belt is aligned
Fixing any misalignment or lack of tension is probably best resolved by removing the belt and refitting correctly. That's what i would do anyway
HTH
Phil
104
General Car Chat / Re: Ever heard of John Dodd ?
« on: 25 June 2015, 22:45:39 »
I remember a story about somebody on the Autobahn doing around 150mph when a car with a RR grill flashed to overtake him then accelerated past him
He wrote to RR asking if he could have one and that's how RR eventually took him to court and he was banned from using it with the grill on
John Dodd "The Beast" on Top Gear https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxMxFE37Sxw presented by Steve Berry
He wrote to RR asking if he could have one and that's how RR eventually took him to court and he was banned from using it with the grill on
John Dodd "The Beast" on Top Gear https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxMxFE37Sxw presented by Steve Berry
105
General Discussion Area / Re: Got all excited there...
« on: 24 June 2015, 22:46:02 »Speaking of pussies.
The girl from embarrassing bodies had piss flaps like Wells Fargo saddle bags.
A quick snip and she was neat and tidy again.
two phrases I have heard are
"piss flaps like b-52 bomb doors"
"a chuff like a wizards sleeve"