Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[MCU]

  Bought this car recently for 3000 SEK which is 250 GBP. What i Know Sofar... The clutch is gone and there is audible noise when in gear. Like stuff rubbing on the flywheel. The timing belt is old and will be swapped. The issue is that the car is vibrating on higher rpm and looses power the more throttle i give it. It sound like one cylinder is not running properly. I realize that this could be a number of issues. i did a readout via chinese v=clone "My Naff Code Reader" and i got a number of error codes wich are probably a result of previous owner foregetting t to plug all the wires when trying to fire the engine. After deleting error one one fault code reappears. i did swap out the ingintion coil module but the problems remain. LIve data suggest that the trottle body works as both pedal and thottle show no sticking, just a linear respons w7o jumping or loosing signal. all sparkplugs look normal. the camsahft sensor which was suspected the culprit does not reappear when i update the errorlog. it runs normal on idle but upon throttle above 30 percent it start to stutter and sound like it runs on 3 cylinders. The reason for my asking is whether to start swapping clucth and cambelt and pretty much every item that  are worn out or just get the other diesel omega up and running with less work. could the camshaft sensor be the underlying problem or is it a blown head gasket. All logic says no since plugs look normal. i see no  deviation on injector, or coils either. I dont want to spend days i the garage if i have bigger issues whith the motor. here is the error log before deleting it
Total number of fault codes: 7

P1650 - Service Vehicle Soon Light Voltage Low
 (04) - Present

P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit No Signal
 (04) - Not present

P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Incorrect Signal
 (08) - Not present

P0170 - Rich Exhaust
 (01) - Not present

P0136 - O2 Sensor 2 Open Circuit
 (04) - Not present

P1612 - Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
 (00) - Not present

P1613 - Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
 (00) - Not present


the only error remaining is
P1650 - Service Vehicle Soon Light Voltage Low
 (04) - Present

[Enceladus]

I believe that you've already established that the previous owner removed the bulb for the orange spanner light on the dash? That would explain the P1650.

Given your symptoms and now that there are no fault codes, I wonder if the cat is OK. Perhaps the matrix is broken and sometimes blocks the down-pipe. Get underneath with the engine cold and give it a good thump with the side of your closed fist. If you can hear/feel it rattle inside then that's a sign of a broken matrix.

Could still be the cam sensor I suppose.
Was it a new ignition module or was it salvaged from another car?
And was there any oil and/or water in the spark plug wells.

If you disconnect the MAF does it run any better or worse?

[MCU]

i will dive down under to check the cat. Brand new Ignition module and plugs. Yes there was oil around the plug so i have a new rocker gasket waiting to be installed. If the cat is blocking would one not notice this on the data. The airflow should be restricted in that case. I did buy a Delphi camshaft sensor just to see if it solves anything. I have had no time to spare due to building and installing av new furnace/ and new room along with buying and selling the other car. I had a bad cat on my mv6 2.5l. No blocking but high NOX at MOT and a big dent on the cat indicated driver induced failure....

[Enceladus]

I suggest that the first thing you need to do is to renew the cam cover seal and o-rings and to unblock the sump breathers.
Mop out the plug wells and clean the plugs and the boots on the ignition unit.

The problem is that the oil leaking into the wells causes misfires. Frequently worse under load. Such misfiring also seems to damage the coil pack. Misfires might allow un-burnt fuel into the cat. This can fracture the cat, although I suppose this is less likely if your car has a working pre-cat.

See if there is any improvement. If not, try the new cam sensor, since you have that option.

If still not right then try disconnecting the MAF and report what happens.

It's best not to change out parts unless you know they're broken.

[MCU]

Well yes... the issue was no time. I have to install the furnace pipes today. And this weekend i will get my hands dirty. These problems are rare in my 2 Diesel omegas... they just run w/o any problems, whereas the Petrol Omegas always seem to have problems every once in a while. One also buy the previous owners neglegt.
It's kind of a learning curve for me. And the reason i got rid of the mv6. Too much hands on time to keep running and the diesels just work, Only oil change and checking hoses. My son bought my, getting to work car vw golf mk3. I really hate it, But there rarely are any issues my the motor at all. already cleaned around the plugs. But the mk3 golf is a shitty car to have in comparison to the Omegas. I have all the info now, and i hope to sort it this weekend. Thanks a lot!
the other 2.5TD Omega is the preferred ride, but need to have a new ar35 and turbine installed. So its a qustion of wich car could be up and running  with the least work done.... But one always realizes that one cannot cut any corner with modern cars...they do't car if you have any time anyway.. Now i will get my Furnace burning again and maybe the Wife a little happier.

[MCU]

general mayhem in progress. i cleneaed out the pipe between valve cover which was blocked to 100%. The other 2 where not blocked. There was oil in the air intake and a little oil from the lower timing oil seal indicating blockage from oil sump. cleaned out the ignition module and replaced the cambelt. Voila the timing problem gone. But could still feel some vibrations... I know the clutch is bad but i run the car in neutral. thought i would get it hot, to burn out all the shite from the cat. so i revved it and around 5000 rpm it suddenly started having an ominous clicking noise. Given i had replaced the cambelt, i thought.. That one came loose and destroyed the valves all together, But investigation showed that the timing was spot on. i began handcranking the motor and the noise comes from the flyhweel. I had a glance at the hole where the oilbreather pipe is bolted near the oil sump... here lies metalhavings indicating that something has come loose from flywhwheel or clutch. This makes me to believe that i might not be able to save this self-abuser of car.. I did buy this car cheap and if i did not get it running, i would simply steal parts and drive with one of my other Omega b 2.5tdīs. So for now i will tow the 2.2 out of the garage and not egaging in what site i will find when the gearbox is removed and have my Omega nr2 2.5td automatic fixed instead, to have a car running to get to work.... The one i Drive now is a 2.5td manual which is in very good condition, but need attention as defrost does not work and costs a helluva lot, to have running as a car. One can have it registered as a truck in sweden reducing road tax to half the cost. The other 2.5td Omega... is registered as a truck already... The least amount of cash spent. The 2.2 also has severe rust on the rockerpanel. But this work will have to wait for a few weeks. I read about another Omega owner who had a major breakdown, flywheel and clutch related. I remember he said i took out a lot of stuff...

[MCU]

general mayhem in progress. i cleaned out the pipe between valve cover and crankcase, which was blocked to 100%. The other 2 where not blocked. There was oil in the air intake, and a little oil from the lower timing oil seal indicating blockage from oil sump. cleaned out the ignition module and replaced the cambelt. Voila the timing problem gone. But could still feel some vibrations... I know the clutch is bad, but i run the car in neutral. thought i would get it hot, to burn out all the shite from the cat. So i revved it and around 5000 rpm, it suddenly started having an ominous clicking noise. Given i had replaced the cambelt, i thought.. That one came loose and destroyed the valves all together, But investigation showed that the timing was spot on. i began handcranking the motor and the noise comes from the flyhweel. I had a glance at the hole where the oilbreather pipe is bolted near the oil sump... here lies metalhavings indicating that something has come loose from flywhwheel or clutch. This makes me to believe that i might not be able to save this self-abuser of car.. I did buy this car cheap, and if i did not get it running, i would simply steal parts and drive, with one of my other Omega b 2.5tdīs. So for now i will tow the 2.2 out of the garage and not engaging in what mayhem i will find, when the gearbox is removed and have my Omega nr2 2.5td automatic fixed instead, to have a car running to get to work.... The one i Drive now is a 2.5td manual which is in very good condition, but need attention as defrost does not, work and costs a helluva lot to have running as a car.
One can have it registered as a truck in sweden reducing road tax to half the cost. The other 2.5td Omega... is registered as a truck already... The least amount of cash spent. The 2.2 also has severe rust on the rockerpanel. But this work will have to wait for a few weeks. I read about another Omega owner who had a major breakdown, flywheel and clutch related. I remember he said i took out a lot of stuff...

[MCU]

Updates ! since it is worm enough outside this Januari 2020 i decided to yank the gearbox out. The pressure plate was loose due to 2 rivets broken, and the steel tabs holding it, had started to grind agaist the bell housing. This was of course the source of the vibrations, as it would not center at all....Lucklily i cought it in time, and the dual mass flywheel is in good condition. The steel brackets also prevented me from removing the gearbox. so i had to removed the shifter subplate where the ball is seated from the shifter. ineed to wiggle and force it backwards to break the tabs as the hocked in the groves they made i the bell housing. So not as an easy removal as seen before..

[MCU]

Updates ! since it is warm enough outside this Januari 2020 i decided to yank the gearbox out. The pressure plate was loose due to 2 rivets broken, and the steel tabs holding it, had started to grind agaist the bell housing. This was of course the source of the vibrations, as it would not center at all....Lucklily i cought it in time, and the dual mass flywheel is in good condition. The steel brackets also prevented me from removing the gearbox. so i had to removed the shifter subplate where the ball is seated from the shifter. ineed to wiggle and force it backwards to break the tabs as the hocked in the groves they made i the bell housing. So not as an easy removal as seen before..

[MCU]

Bought this car recently for 3000 SEK which is 250 GBP. What i Know Sofar... The clutch is gone and there is audible noise when in gear. Like stuff rubbing on the flywheel. The timing belt is old and will be swapped. The issue is that the car is vibrating on higher rpm and looses power the more throttle i give it. It sound like one cylinder is not running properly. I realize that this could be a number of issues. i did a readout via chinese v=clone "My Naff Code Reader" and i got a number of error codes wich are probably a result of previous owner foregetting t to plug all the wires when trying to fire the engine. After deleting error one one fault code reappears. i did swap out the ingintion coil module but the problems remain. LIve data suggest that the trottle body works as both pedal and thottle show no sticking, just a linear respons w7o jumping or loosing signal. all sparkplugs look normal. the camsahft sensor which was suspected the culprit does not reappear when i update the errorlog. it runs normal on idle but upon throttle above 30 percent it start to stutter and sound like it runs on 3 cylinders. The reason for my asking is whether to start swapping clucth and cambelt and pretty much every item that  are worn out or just get the other diesel omega up and running with less work. could the camshaft sensor be the underlying problem or is it a blown head gasket. All logic says no since plugs look normal. i see no  deviation on injector, or coils either. I dont want to spend days i the garage if i have bigger issues whith the motor. here is the error log before deleting it
Total number of fault codes: 7

P1650 - Service Vehicle Soon Light Voltage Low
 (04) - Present

P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit No Signal
 (04) - Not present

P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Incorrect Signal
 (08) - Not present

P0170 - Rich Exhaust
 (01) - Not present

P0136 - O2 Sensor 2 Open Circuit
 (04) - Not present

P1612 - Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
 (00) - Not present

P1613 - Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
 (00) - Not present


the only error remaining is
P1650 - Service Vehicle Soon Light Voltage Low
 (04) - Present