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Author Topic: scuttle leak into spark plug wells/bores, water and oil: further advice please  (Read 9108 times)

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rds

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Hello all

after all this rain recently, I was unable to start car 2.2cdx after a 3 day park-up. I had similar issue two years back and traced that to water in the spark plug wells so checked that again and yup, there it is again although less than last time and some oil evident.

Previously I saw that the foam above the ecotec cover was sodden and  I fitted a plate to redirect drips; it has worked until now but as it has failed this time i thought i'd check back here.

The Maintenance Guide is useful
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=128823.0
however I just cannot seem to orientate myself to the photo: it seems too small for me to work out where
I am supposed to be adding sealant. Can anyone post a better photo please? I feel that the guide needs a bit of amplification, as good as it is already.

Also:
1 Do I need to remove the scuttle to do this?

2 Where do I treat the wiper spindles with sealant?

3 How do you get a good seal between windscreen and scuttle's rubber edge? It does not seems to want to to sit flat around the whole curve of the windscreen and clip at the furtherest left and right ends

4 How to remove the water/oil from the wells before removal of spark plugs? I have tried syringe and hose, cloth and shop-paper without much success. I have no access to good pressure compressed air to blow it out (and don't want the mess either!!)

5 Re the oil, I replaced the breather hose and cleaned through a couple of years back too but I guess the cam box seal has given? I see references to a Maintenance Guide for that so will check there.

All info/guidance etc gratefully received.

Merry Christmas

RDS
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Doctor Gollum

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Remove your plate and foam. The scuttle wasn't built with sealant, so non should be used.

For the cam cover, only use sealant in the corners at the front cam caps. Anywhere else and it won't seal properly  :y
« Last Edit: 22 December 2019, 13:55:13 by Doctor Gollum »
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Enceladus

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I would just add that if there is any old sealer, varnish or other crud anywhere on the sealing surfaces, please make sure you clean / buff it off before fitting the new seal. The cleaner the surface the better and longer lived the new seal will be. Also make sure you tighten the cover screws evenly, but not overtight, the torque is only 8Nm. Overtightening will distort the cover and the seal will fail.
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rds

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Thanks Doctor Gollum and Enceladus

ref:
Remove your plate and foam. The scuttle wasn't built with sealant, so non should be used.
if i just take off the scuttle plate and then remove the foam, wont that just mean that the water's route to the spark plug wells is going to be easier? is there no way of stopping the water getting into the foam in the first place?

Cheers

RDS
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YZ250

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.....
3 How do you get a good seal between windscreen and scuttle's rubber edge? It does not seems to want to to sit flat around the whole curve of the windscreen and clip at the furtherest left and right ends.

If the rubber has slipped even slightly the dust off the windscreen gets washed in to the small groove in the rubber. As the dust/crap builds up in the groove it reduces the chances of staying in place and won't fit properly when you attempt to fix it back in place. You can just about remove the whole trim by jiggling it between the inner wings and the bonnet struts, clean the groove thoroughly, clean the screen lower edge and then replace it. It will go on better this time and should stay in place to create a better seal.

If you so wish to try to seal using the mastic method, the photo is of the curved metal part of the scuttle under where the two plastic scuttle sections meet. If you lift it up in that area you will see the curved part at the inboard end of the pollen filter housing. The idea was to build a wall of mastic to prevent the water going beyond the natural drain point, which is the pollen filter area drain hole.
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Doctor Gollum

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Thanks Doctor Gollum and Enceladus

ref:
Remove your plate and foam. The scuttle wasn't built with sealant, so non should be used.
if i just take off the scuttle plate and then remove the foam, wont that just mean that the water's route to the spark plug wells is going to be easier? is there no way of stopping the water getting into the foam in the first place?

Cheers

RDS
Water is supposed to drain there, it's how it is designed with that infill section of bulkhead, presumably to aid assembly in the factory...

A different person thought that adding foam to the bulkhead would make the car more refined by helping absorb engine noise... With no thought to the fact that it is a primary water route.

Removing the foam doesn't stop the water, but it does stop it being collected where it can drip onto the coil pack/Dis pack/plug well... Unable to sit in the foam, the water safely drains down the bulkhead away from any ignition electricals ;)

The scuttle isn't assembled using sealant, ergo, it shouldn't be sealed.
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rds

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thanks YZ and DrG

i'll pull this later in the week then, assuming that it stops raining for more than 5 minutes....

Any tips on getting this water/oil mix out of the bores?

Merry Christmas

RDS
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robson

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syringe and pipe
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Doctor Gollum

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Kitchen roll sheets rolled up :y
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Tick Tock

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Syringe with a bit of pipe on the end.
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rds

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cheers Tick - that looks worse than mine but the last time i used the syringe and tube, it took ages.

RDS
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Doctor Gollum

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If you're feeling lazy, just pull the plugs and wipe the Wells once they have drained :P

Obviously NOT the preferred method ;D
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Nick W

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cheers Tick - that looks worse than mine but the last time i used the syringe and tube, it took ages.

RDS


use a better syringe 8)
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rds

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If you're feeling lazy, just pull the plugs and wipe the Wells once they have drained :P

Obviously NOT the preferred method ;D

Exactly what I was trying to avoid!
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rds

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cheers Tick - that looks worse than mine but the last time i used the syringe and tube, it took ages.

RDS


use a better syringe 8)

Standard NHS. Will go private.
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