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[Doctor Gollum]

 

[laney101]

??

[Doctor Gollum]

You've been told before about the geometry.

[laney101]

Told what it need to he right.. no shit.

It been tracked twice different places. Both time it comes out and it drives straight no pulling wheel cenrral and its fi e.

Im not paying for a 4 wheel alignment till all work is finished as removing arms swapping bushes etc require it being redone.

So tracking is fine at moment as rear has never been touched.

But as just stated notice camber for to excessive so going to reset camber myself and then get retracked also.

Even with 2 degree camber had no tyre wear issues

[Doctor Gollum]

Geometry advice given here is based on millions of miles of collective Omega experience.

Having personally been down the road of replacing the front tyres every thousand miles trying to get to the bottom of geometry issues, I am only trying to spare you, and other newish Omega owners from suffering similar.

But hey, if you know better than all the collective knowledge here, crack on... We will say we told you so

[laney101]

Didnt say i know better and as usual you are not reading post.

Just state

Geometry advice given here is based on millions of miles of collective Omega experience.

Having personally been down the road of replacing the front tyres every thousand miles trying to get to the bottom of geometry issues, I am only trying to spare you, and other newish Omega owners from suffering similar.

But hey, if you know better than all the collective knowledge here, crack on... We will say we told you so

d
i have had no tyre wear issues what so ever .. tyres wear fine. And car drive straight and true.
Car will be 4 wheel aligned when it is ready to.
Once back end has bushes and springs swapped etc...
Not gonna pay 100 plus pound for 4 wheel alignment for i in 4 weeks  maybe 6 weeks have to go back and pay again because i swapped somerhing around.

Be mad to. Especially when it is fine as it (for now.)

No tyre wear all even and wearing well..

This post was not about geometry it was about a issue with something moving(or seems to be movig) and as per usual things go of on tangent on forum


Did you read what i said i chdcked and habe any advice on that stuff ?? Do you feel the eccessive camber could be causing it or maybe playing it part in the issue

I know the issues with omega and geomtry issue. Thrust angle needs to be 0    front camber down to around 1.1 to 1.3 negative camber at front
Rear camber ends up whatever as long as toe and thrust angle right..

And it will be once it ready to be done.

I would never replace tyres every couple of thousand miles. As said again and again mine is fine onntyres wears really well

Also before some jumps.out and tells me to go WIM for alignment dont. Jesus it the only place that ever gets mentioned on here. It may be the best for it and id say ot is by sounds of it. But for most people it miles away and of no use.

I have to use the wheel alignment and ball joint centre in liverpool as even thats 35mins away.

[Doctor Gollum]

Like I said, crack on. 

[laney101]

So now because you didnt like what i say you not gonna be of any help.

I even asked a question in last post.

I got asked to check wishbones rear bushes
I have done... no comment??

Ive checked tyres theyre all fine no comment?

Mentioned i had found what i believe to be play in rear beam bishes but unsure if it excessive no comment on that.


Things get posted on here because people asking for help ive done nothing any different. You went off on one being funny saying crack on and saying apparently i know.more than collective people.
Never have i mentioned that i do or made out like that.

I know my camber excessive on front but got no tyre wear or pulling or wheel of centre issue so cant see how it giving me my cornering problems unless it it thats all. Im nit sure ??


How can poeple learn or find out things if people dont help. No good being abrupt or jist dismissing what others say thay not helpfuk in slightest

Like I said, crack on. 

[Doctor Gollum]

To answer your questions, Delphi ball joints if required and whatever rear bushes the wishbones came with along with front poly.

Wishbones, drop links and track rods from ATP. And treat them as a service item, which in my case meant every six months as I was doing 40+k a year.

Can't speak for the White line stuff as I fitted Pedders to all mine.

[laney101]

Thankyou for reply.

I did do overhaul around 8 months ago full new everything on front wishbones drop links  steering arms etc ..

However wishbonrs were new but uknown brand.

So was te.oted to refurb the old Gm ones ive got with poly front and new gm rear bush. For ball joint bit delphi as you say? How does that sound. And do you know gm part number for rear bush on wishbone

Whitleine stuff has very good review form fellow owners in usa and monaro owners.  So only time will tell.. bit yes ive jeard of pedder and very good reviews

[johnnydog]

. And do you know gm part number for rear bush on wishbone

Rear bush - 9156605 (previously was 90445571 which now NLS).

[Nick W]

Omegas are utterly reliant on having properly set and controlled suspension geometry. Get either of those wrong and you get all sorts of weird handling 'characteristics'. Too much camber(and your 2° is far too much), or different side to side will easily make for odd steering, as will worn rear bushes.


Having your car properly aligned by somebody who knows what he is doing is an important part of diagnosing what is wrong. Not doing that is wasteful in parts plus your, and now our, time. This is advice that is repeatedly given, but frequently misunderstood and ignored. That leads to both your, and DG's frustration.


Optimising the car's geometry transforms a car that might drive OK before the job. The last time mine was done cost £75, and that was because the rear camber/toe needed adjusting due to recent subframe bushes.

[456lbft]

Ditto my MV6 does the same. Was much improved by changing the front top mounts and resetting the front camber to 1.0deg.  More than 1.0 deg causes the front to "tramline" (ie follow the camber changes in the road or white lines, lorry ruts etc to a sometimes alarming degree. It is a problem that I am familiar with from years of working on Lotus Carltons. It is made worse on an LC by the wider rear track.  I have also found that however tight that you do the adjusting bolts on the front struts they don't hold the camber. So now we use Eibach camber adjusting bolts (ebay them) for the top slotted bolt hole, which work well.
I'd like to say we cured the MV6 this way, but it does still swing about a bit on undulating roads, even ones that I drive on regularly.  So I suspect something at the rear, most probably the big subframe donuts is also contributing. The Lotus's have much harder donuts, so probably don't suffer as much crabbing due to horizontal movement of the front of the subframe.  They do however get axle tramp when the inner sleeve separates from the rubber leading to excessive vertical motion.  The Lotus donuts are NLS of course so a poly replacement from pedders or similar is on the shopping list next.

[laney101]

Think im gonna start with what ive found 

Rear doughnuts loads of play so replacing them with poly i have them already.

Gonna rebuild my wishbones with new rear bushes and powerflex front.

Top mount have been insoected and there seems to be some gap between them and towers. Am asaumjng there shidnt be so may go for uprated top mounts.

Ill sey camber at 1 degree each fromt wheel and retrack myself. (So i can drive it to the wheel alignment and ball joint center for 4 wheel geometry on hunter system.

May even throw in a cheeky PAS fluid change aswell


Question does anyone ever swap out trailing arm bushes. As it common upgrade on monaros

[VXL V6]

Front camber should be more like -1 degree. WIM have their own settings and Tony Bones will tweak it to suit your requirements.