Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: terry paget on 03 December 2016, 09:34:54
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2.2 petrol manual CDX
Checking out son Jonny's car, n/s dipped beam was not working. He says he gets a message occasionally telling him it is is not on. I had the battery out when he told me this. I put battery back, checked it again, and it came on, full brightness.
Is this likely to be a failing bulb sympton, or something else?.
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Check the plug to the ballast unit is secure ;)
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If the bulbs have a purple tinge, then suspect bulbs. The bulbs and ballasts can be swapped side to side to prove faulty component - although to see where all the screws are, you need remove battery and airbox.
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I know the bottom screw holding the headlamp unit in place can be difficult to access (and replace), but I've found that removing the whole unit from the car and unplugging everything whilst holding it clear, is easier than removing the battery - there seems to be enough slack in my looms to allow this, and saves having to disturb anything else.
As an additional tip for refitting bottom screw - I use a small flexible extension with the screw and washer secured with a bit of sticky tape, then once the screw has gripped the chassis insert it is easy enough to pull away, and saves losing the screw on a ledge.
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I know the bottom screw holding the headlamp unit in place can be difficult to access (and replace), but I've found that removing the whole unit from the car and unplugging everything whilst holding it clear, is easier than removing the battery - there seems to be enough slack in my looms to allow this, and saves having to disturb anything else.
As an additional tip for refitting bottom screw - I use a small flexible extension with the screw and washer secured with a bit of sticky tape, then once the screw has gripped the chassis insert it is easy enough to pull away, and saves losing the screw on a ledge.
Thanks for tips. TB recommends removing the front bumper to further facilitate removing the bottom screw. I have done it your way in the past, bu,as you say, it.that bottom bolt is tricky.
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I know the bottom screw holding the headlamp unit in place can be difficult to access (and replace), but I've found that removing the whole unit from the car and unplugging everything whilst holding it clear, is easier than removing the battery - there seems to be enough slack in my looms to allow this, and saves having to disturb anything else.
As an additional tip for refitting bottom screw - I use a small flexible extension with the screw and washer secured with a bit of sticky tape, then once the screw has gripped the chassis insert it is easy enough to pull away, and saves losing the screw on a ledge.
Thanks for tips. TB recommends removing the front bumper to further facilitate removing the bottom screw. I have done it your way in the past, bu,as you say, it.that bottom bolt is tricky.
Pesh... ::) on facelifts, simply pop out the trim, then use a magnetic 8mm socket to undo and remove the lower bolt :y
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I'll bet Halfords won't change this bulb for £5. I removed the battery to gain access, still could not see the bulb, so found an old headlight to play with. The bulb is beneath a cover held on by 3 female torx screws. To disengage the bulb holder from the light unit I relesed a bayonet connector, then out came the bulb in holder on a lead. I did not discover how to remove the bulb from its holder, please advise.
I had earlier discovered that the light ignites 9 times out of 10, bit like a fluorescent light. At this point son wanted to be off, so I reassembled everything and sent him on his way. I did check the plug to the ballast unit, thanks Doc, that was OK.
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Bulb is held in by a collar, rotate and it will release :y
All alot easier off the car ;)
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I know the bottom screw holding the headlamp unit in place can be difficult to access (and replace), but I've found that removing the whole unit from the car and unplugging everything whilst holding it clear, is easier than removing the battery - there seems to be enough slack in my looms to allow this, and saves having to disturb anything else.
As an additional tip for refitting bottom screw - I use a small flexible extension with the screw and washer secured with a bit of sticky tape, then once the screw has gripped the chassis insert it is easy enough to pull away, and saves losing the screw on a ledge.
Thanks for tips. TB recommends removing the front bumper to further facilitate removing the bottom screw. I have done it your way in the past, bu,as you say, it.that bottom bolt is tricky.
Pesh... ::) on facelifts, simply pop out the trim, then use a magnetic 8mm socket to undo and remove the lower bolt :y
I think the part that prevented me from getting the lights out at the first attempt was not knowing that I had to push the centre of the plastic rivet out before the trim would come off.
I have tried taking battery and airbox out but still been unable to get my hands in to change a bulb - I can get a headlight out quicker than I can get either battery or airbox out (know that I know how)
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I don't have small hands, but find it's just possible to change bulbs without having to remove either the battery or the airbox. I do find it easier to remove those than the lamp if trying to diagnose worse problems than defective bulbs. Removing the bumper to get the lamps out is just making work for yourself; the only tricky bit is the bottom bolt, and a tight fitting socket on a long extension deals with that.
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If you've never done it before, removing battery and airbox (lets face it, 2 or 3 minutes work), makes the job much easier to visually see what you need to do, as the HIDs need 3 torx and a fiddly clip.
As to bumper, its pretty essential on PFL/MFL Elites and MV6, as the washers are in the way. On any others, assuming the screws aren't corroded, its 10 mins max to remove bumper and have a cup of tea, so its a personal decision if that time is worthwhile against the hassle of dropping that bolt.
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Bulb is held in by a collar, rotate and it will release :y
All alot easier off the car ;)
Thanks again, Doc. As you say, both bulb holder and bulb in holder are located by clockwise bayonet fittings. And both will only go in one way round. I have just spent a happy hour removing and replacing the HID bulb in the headlamp from my spares heap. I shall do the job with headlamp off the car. Meanwhile, son and car have returned home to Chippenham, so I shall not replace the bulb today. Nevertheless, I now know how to do the job and that I have a spare bulb.
Are HID bulbs in principle similar to domestic fluorescent Bulbs?
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Bulb is held in by a collar, rotate and it will release :y
All alot easier off the car ;)
Thanks again, Doc. As you say, both bulb holder and bulb in holder are located by clockwise bayonet fittings. And both will only go in one way round. I have just spent a happy hour removing and replacing the HID bulb in the headlamp from my spares heap. I shall do the job with headlamp off the car. Meanwhile, son and car have returned home to Chippenham, so I shall not replace the bulb today. Nevertheless, I now know how to do the job and that I have a spare bulb.
Are HID bulbs in principle similar to domestic fluorescent Bulbs?
Sort of....
Both are 'discharge tubes' but fluorescent tubes use heated electrodes to reduce the voltage required to strike an arc.
HIDs are cold cathode discharge tubes and need thousands of volts to strike an arc (hence the ballast pack and warning stickers)
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On the f/l cars, I used to remove the lower h/lamp trim and use some grease on the socket for the lower bolt. Worked for me every time
Keith aBS
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I have removed and replaced both headlights on my F/L Elite numerous times for various jobs.
Never ever have I removed the bumper/airbox or battery .
Open bonnet and either side of the under headlight trim is a small car colour grommet which simple prises out.2 # 10mm bolts are visible on the top headlight securing lugs and 1 is hidden through the gap between the bottom of the headlight and where the trim has been removed.Find that easier to remove with a thin 1/4 drive extension and a deep 10mm 1/4 socket as that fits neatly under the headlight.Trick putting that bolt/screw back in is to secure it to the socket..I use a small blob of bluetack which holds it tight enough just to get the tread started.
Headlight assembly will then pull forward from the car and electrical plugs can be disconnected and headlight removed to work on.
I recon its a 10 minute job at the most to remove each side and depending on how the bottom bolt/screw goes back on refit a similar time .
Safety first though and remove battery earth and leave for a good 30 minutes before touching anything headlight related to ensure no stored charge.
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I know the bottom screw holding the headlamp unit in place can be difficult to access (and replace), but I've found that removing the whole unit from the car and unplugging everything whilst holding it clear, is easier than removing the battery - there seems to be enough slack in my looms to allow this, and saves having to disturb anything else.
As an additional tip for refitting bottom screw - I use a small flexible extension with the screw and washer secured with a bit of sticky tape, then once the screw has gripped the chassis insert it is easy enough to pull away, and saves losing the screw on a ledge.
Thanks for tips. TB recommends removing the front bumper to further facilitate removing the bottom screw. I have done it your way in the past, bu,as you say, it.that bottom bolt is tricky.
Pesh... ::) on facelifts, simply pop out the trim, then use a magnetic 8mm socket to undo and remove the lower bolt :y
I am poor.....So i ram some blu-tac in the socket :y
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I know the bottom screw holding the headlamp unit in place can be difficult to access (and replace), but I've found that removing the whole unit from the car and unplugging everything whilst holding it clear, is easier than removing the battery - there seems to be enough slack in my looms to allow this, and saves having to disturb anything else.
As an additional tip for refitting bottom screw - I use a small flexible extension with the screw and washer secured with a bit of sticky tape, then once the screw has gripped the chassis insert it is easy enough to pull away, and saves losing the screw on a ledge.
Thanks for tips. TB recommends removing the front bumper to further facilitate removing the bottom screw. I have done it your way in the past, bu,as you say, it.that bottom bolt is tricky.
Pesh... ::) on facelifts, simply pop out the trim, then use a magnetic 8mm socket to undo and remove the lower bolt :y
I am poor.....So i ram some blu-tac in the socket :y
Blue Tac works well enough. Years ago I bought a tube of stuff specifically for sticking nuts in soxkets, not seen it recently.
Its interesting to read how the majority of members appear to remove headlights with bumper on, as I have always done. Its simple enough apart from that bottom bolt. Its useful to have a couple of spare bolts handy if you drop one.
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I have never removed any bumper on either F/L or MF/L to remove a headlight and have not had issues getting them out or back in.
Have found that the bottom fixing lug sometimes gets slightly distorted though lifting over and out of lamp socket and requires moving back into shape as bottom bolt wont align with fixing hole.Last time I removed both lamps I also replaced the white plastic screw grommets in the body work as the threads were starting to get worn and not tightening properly.
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I have never removed any bumper on either F/L or MF/L to remove a headlight and have not had issues getting them out or back in.......
HID washers prevent the headlight from being removed ... easily
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Maybe I was lucky but always found you could just tease the lamp body with washer pump over the bumper lip.I put a bit of rag across bumper to stop metal brackets damaging the face.
More fiddly than a F/L but quite doable