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[Alnico Blue]

Hi all      found a supplier for a SKF rear wheel bearing for the 2.6 CDX estate at £28  which seems cheap for a SKF.  But it only says saloons on there compat chart .  Do the estste and saloon rear wheel bearings differ ?

Advice on the OEM part No. would be helpful if someone knows it .   TIA     Al   

[Nick W]

Estate bearing is few mm wider than saloons. They're not interchangeable.


Your local ECP will have(or get) SKP bearings for about £45, and a cheaper one(that I used) for £25ish. There's no need to make buying the bearing complicated

[Alnico Blue]

Hi Nick  . . . can only find ECP listing the "Q- Drive " make .   2 versions ,armoured vehicles and non armoured vehicles 

I am not trying to over complicate purchasing this  . .. just want make sure i get the right one.

Am I right in thinking that SKF is a decent make ? or is it SKP  as you have written ?

[Nick W]

Hi Nick  . . . can only find ECP listing the "Q- Drive " make .   2 versions ,armoured vehicles and non armoured vehicles 

I am not trying to over complicate purchasing this  . .. just want make sure i get the right one.

Am I right in thinking that SKF is a decent make ? or is it SKP  as you have written ?

Damn faulty keyboard


SKF is a good make - your cam belt pulleys are supplied by them.


I've just put my old estate reg into their parts finder and it returns THIS Qdrive part which is what I fitted to both sides of my car.


Smaller Saloon bearing HERE  The slightly more expensive FAG bearing listed is another high quality part if you're worried about brands.


It looks like their catalogue wasn't translated very well. Those are retail prices, getting them reduced shouldn't be too difficult.

[Alnico Blue]

Thanks Nick  .  .excellent info and links .  £30  with discount code for the Q drive one .  Can't seem to get the SKF one up on their site.

As I only do a couple of K miles a year in the omega  . . I guess the Q drive  will do me fine .

Shown my Bruv the maintenance guide , he seems to think we can do it ok . He has lots of pullers etc.  and says he can probably make what is required.

I seem to recall that you once posted a sketch/pic of what you made (tool / puller wise ) to make this job doable . . .could you possibly post it up again .       

[Nick W]

I use:


a basic wheel bearing set for FWD cars to remove and fit the bearing
a slightly modified(I filed one of the slots to fit) Mini flywheel puller to remove the drive flange. A generic 2 or 3 leg puller will work
A cobbled together, on the car, out of scrap hub extractor, meet Mr Ugly:





that's a short length of 70mm bore tube, some lugs hacked out of 8mm steel and welded on, a steel disc with an M16 nut welded in the centre, M16 bolt and an aluminium block as a pusher. It bolts on the back of the hub carrier using the 2 of the handbrake backing plate bolts, and winds the hub out of the bearing. No measuring, just hacked to 'fit' with an angle grinder and welder. I made this because trying packers in the front and the whelbolts was starting to do damage, and I've buggered up too many threads hammering on them.


Once the hub is removed, you'll have to remove the outer bearing race from it; a slot cut with the grinder and a whack with a chisel does that. It can also be done with a puller but is way more work.


Some spacers are needed to pull the hub through the new bearing, I have two old races for this; the first one I cut off, and a bored out one.


If you get anywhere near Chatham, I'll happily lend you all this stuff.

Edit:


you will need some robust circlip pliers, getting the old one out is the worst bit of the job. Every bearing I've done came with a new circlip and lock washer, you will NEED the circlip!


The backing plate bolts are spline drive for some reason(bloody Germans again), and need an appropriate bit.

[Enceladus]

The part you want is GM #90486468 bearing repair kit which includes the circlip. The estate rear bearings are 45mm wide and the saloons are 39mm wide. OD & ID are the same. The bearing on it's own was GM #90235281 but this was superseded by the kit above.

The Q-Drive bearing from ECP is the £61.99 one. So you need a big discount.
The FAG bearing on the ECP site is for a saloon. Not for an estate.

The FAG kit you actually want is part number 713 6446 50. The SKF kit is part VBKA1326. Both about the same price. Try your local friendly motor factor as it seems these bearings are not unique to GM Opel.

[Enceladus]

Apologies for the typo. Should say SKF VKBA1326 in the post above.

The part you want is GM #90486468 bearing repair kit which includes the circlip. The estate rear bearings are 45mm wide and the saloons are 39mm wide. OD & ID are the same. The bearing on it's own was GM #90235281 but this was superseded by the kit above.

The Q-Drive bearing from ECP is the £61.99 one. So you need a big discount.
The FAG bearing on the ECP site is for a saloon. Not for an estate.

The FAG kit you actually want is part number 713 6446 50. The SKF kit is part VBKA1326. Both about the same price. Try your local friendly motor factor as it seems these bearings are not unique to GM Opel.

[Alnico Blue]

Good info guys  . . .thanks .     

Nick . . .may take you up on the loan of stuff . . . .but will attempt with my Bruv first .

No problem if we get stuck   as car will be off road and is not needed for essential transport .
 
But . .don't hold your breath on when this will be done as i have had a health issue recently and am just about back to running on all pots . And  car has MOT until the end Sept 2021 

[Keith ABS]

 Al, have you bought the bearing(s) yet?
If not, pm me

[Doctor Gollum]

Estate and Monaro are the same

[Alnico Blue]

I use:


a basic wheel bearing set for FWD cars to remove and fit the bearing
a slightly modified(I filed one of the slots to fit) Mini flywheel puller to remove the drive flange. A generic 2 or 3 leg puller will work
A cobbled together, on the car, out of scrap hub extractor, meet Mr Ugly:





that's a short length of 70mm bore tube, some lugs hacked out of 8mm steel and welded on, a steel disc with an M16 nut welded in the centre, M16 bolt and an aluminium block as a pusher. It bolts on the back of the hub carrier using the 2 of the handbrake backing plate bolts, and winds the hub out of the bearing. No measuring, just hacked to 'fit' with an angle grinder and welder. I made this because trying packers in the front and the whelbolts was starting to do damage, and I've buggered up too many threads hammering on them.


Once the hub is removed, you'll have to remove the outer bearing race from it; a slot cut with the grinder and a whack with a chisel does that. It can also be done with a puller but is way more work.


Some spacers are needed to pull the hub through the new bearing, I have two old races for this; the first one I cut off, and a bored out one.


If you get anywhere near Chatham, I'll happily lend you all this stuff.

Edit:


you will need some robust circlip pliers, getting the old one out is the worst bit of the job. Every bearing I've done came with a new circlip and lock washer, you will NEED the circlip!


The backing plate bolts are spline drive for some reason(bloody Germans again), and need an appropriate bit.

Hi Nick W     you have a PM on its way ..    Regards, Al