Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: terry paget on 16 January 2019, 11:48:07
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Daughter's Astra 1.6 oil pressure warning light is coming on, she complains. It happened once in December when car was here, I checked oil level, it was OK. It's doing it much more now, car is in London. I know, it could be a failing switch, or a failing engine. I advised her to call the RAC.
If it's a faulty switch a local garage could change it. If it's a failing engine I have a problem.
I have sorted the door lock on the Omega she had before; I could return it to her, but then how would I get the Astra home?
There must be people offering a service of moving cars about, at a price. Please advise.
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Plenty of places will move cars around - expect about £1.50/mile minimum.
Anywhere you could temporarily hook a real oil pressure gauge up to if you went there? That would be an easy way to see if its safe to drive home or not..
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Blimey Terry :(
which car ? the 160k+ onen or the 120k ?
assume either way it has P155 5w30
rather tan the TC 10w40 semi I suggested ;D
I did an oil change on then wife's new astra H 1.6 recently and noted the oil filter for z16 xep is not the standard spin on that fits most vauxhall of the era but a bigger spin ion filter, what did you fit ?
oil pressure switches are common to leak or bring the low pressure light on true enough BUT.....
an oil and correct filter change (to 10w40, not P155) may be a good idea
and there is that possibility that you have blocked the oil pick up with crap, washed out with P155 oil :-\
also you need to confirm it is oil pressure and not oil level warning light.
as for recovery back , being london , i expect it won't be cheap :(
also also
being london , i expect the car sits in traffic for hours and gets hot ,which thins the oil anyway , plus if the thermostat is not opening or any problem with the fans not working (you need to check ) will thin the oil to bring light on .
there is no temperature gauge on the dash ,you have to view the temp via the radio/display or bluetooth elm327 (about £5 delivered) or similar .
anyone local to the car that could do an oil and filter change Terry ?
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A 20% difference in hot viscosity isn't going to be the problem, especially in the middle of winter.
Agreed that a manual pressure gauge you can check it with would be ideal, but, if it's genuinely got no oil pressure, then it's probably already far enough gone that it doesn't matter. :(
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Tell her to get it to a local garage for an oil and filter. If she plays the damsel in distress, they may do a quick pressure test for her. Much less expensive than having it brought back home on the back of a truck.
Or........drop the omega off and visit a local garage yourself. Don't try the damsel in distress bit, though. They may call the police. ;D
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I'd just change the pressure switch, you can get one for a fiver on ebay to prove it. Replaced a few on DTI Omega's and 1.2 Corsa's due to eith bringing the oil pressure light on or pissing oil through them. For a fiver as a first step its a no brainer.... Plus if the engine does really have such a low oil pressure it isn't much longer for this World.
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Thanks to all for advice. RAC has towed car to Lavender Hill Garage, I await their call.
The car is the 2008 1.6 estate, 120,000 miles. Following my experience with the 110000 miles Astra with sump full of sludge which seized during MOT emissions test, I dropped the sump on this car, thoroughly cleaned it and the oil strainer. I changed the filter and refilled with 5W30 oil. It ran all right, only once did the oil light come on motoring around Somerset. I regret I did not use 10W40 as advised, too late now. I recall in my Austin Mini days Duckhams Q20/50 was very popular.
I hope the garage can replace the oil pressure switch with a pressure gauge to clarify matters. I will report back.
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Lavender Hill garage, Enfield, rang 1620, man said he started it up, it, he drove it up the road and back, runs all right, no nasty noises, no lights on I asked whether he had removed the oil light warning switch and put in a pressure gauge, he said no, but the car seemed fine to him. I asked whether it would survive a 100 mile run down the motorway, he said yes.
I am tempted to go up tomorrow or Friday and collect it, and see if I can get it home. What do you think?
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Would it cost less than your fuel for two return trips to get them to fit a new oil pressure sensor?
If yes, that's your answer ;)
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A short run up the road won't even get the car up to temp ::)
and it's when warm the oil will be thin ,surprised the garage said it was ok to drive any distance without proper testing :o
will they replace the engine for free if it goes tits up on the way back to bristol ??
at the very least , i'd want to do an oil and filter change before going any distance or in traffic .
'd also check the coolant is ok and circulating and the fan works when hot :y
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Just replacing parts isn't the best way of diagnosis, but a failing sensor is such a common fault and one that's so cheaply and easily fixed that fitting a new sensor is the place to start.
If the problem persists, then you check the pressure with a proper gauge and the specification.
You'll be surprised at just how little pressure is required at idle; this is one of the reasons why manufacturers stopped fitting gauges.
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You'll be surprised at just how little pressure is required at idle; this is one of the reasons why manufacturers stopped fitting gauges.
And why the idiot light usually comes on at something like 4psi..
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This morning 0845 I rang the garage and asked them to change the oil pressure warning light switch. Man replied he did not think that would cure it. Apparently yesterday, after they had rung me, they tried it again, and it made a nasty noise and the light came on again. He suggests an engine flush, I agreed. Bad news.
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This morning 0845 I rang the garage and asked them to change the oil pressure warning light switch. Man replied he did not think that would cure it. Apparently yesterday, after they had rung me, they tried it again, and it made a nasty noise and the light came on again. He suggests an engine flush, I agreed. Bad news.
A nasty oil pump type noise?
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It's a 120k astra,,, find a suitable metal recycling yard, one of dodgey morals, crush car report it stolen.. :) No more problems.
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It's a 120k astra,,, find a suitable metal recycling yard, one of dodgey morals, crush car report it stolen.. :) No more problems.
We don't do that kind of thing on here. We bodge fix things.
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This morning 0845 I rang the garage and asked them to change the oil pressure warning light switch. Man replied he did not think that would cure it. Apparently yesterday, after they had rung me, they tried it again, and it made a nasty noise and the light came on again. He suggests an engine flush, I agreed. Bad news.
Either you have terrible luck with Astras, or you are the best advert for why I shouldn't entertain picking up a snotter Astra when the Skoda goes!
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This morning 0845 I rang the garage and asked them to change the oil pressure warning light switch. Man replied he did not think that would cure it. Apparently yesterday, after they had rung me, they tried it again, and it made a nasty noise and the light came on again. He suggests an engine flush, I agreed. Bad news.
Either you have terrible luck with Astras, or you are the best advert for why I shouldn't entertain picking up a snotter Astra when the Skoda goes!
Not a ten year old one, anyway.
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Certainly fixing the 2.2 Omegas would have been more cost effective :-X
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This morning 0845 I rang the garage and asked them to change the oil pressure warning light switch. Man replied he did not think that would cure it. Apparently yesterday, after they had rung me, they tried it again, and it made a nasty noise and the light came on again. He suggests an engine flush, I agreed. Bad news.
Either you have terrible luck with Astras, or you are the best advert for why I shouldn't entertain picking up a snotter Astra when the Skoda goes!
Not a ten year old one, anyway.
Yup. £6-8k would get a far better example. Part of me is tempted to get MrsT an Astra petrol Estate, when my Omega rusts away.
Something like this:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201805186647865?sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&radius=1500&make=VAUXHALL&model=ASTRA&year-from=2012&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=tw89de&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&aggregatedTrim=Elite&body-type=Estate&page=1 (https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201805186647865?sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&radius=1500&make=VAUXHALL&model=ASTRA&year-from=2012&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=tw89de&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&aggregatedTrim=Elite&body-type=Estate&page=1)
I'd then keep the Zaf for work and odd times we need more seats.
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Of course, if you looked after it, the Omega would last a lot longer ::)
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This morning 0845 I rang the garage and asked them to change the oil pressure warning light switch. Man replied he did not think that would cure it. Apparently yesterday, after they had rung me, they tried it again, and it made a nasty noise and the light came on again. He suggests an engine flush, I agreed. Bad news.
Either you have terrible luck with Astras, or you are the best advert for why I shouldn't entertain picking up a snotter Astra when the Skoda goes!
Not a ten year old one, anyway.
Yup. £6-8k would get a far better example. Part of me is tempted to get MrsT an Astra petrol Estate, when my Omega rusts away.
Something like this:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201805186647865?sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&radius=1500&make=VAUXHALL&model=ASTRA&year-from=2012&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=tw89de&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&aggregatedTrim=Elite&body-type=Estate&page=1 (https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201805186647865?sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&radius=1500&make=VAUXHALL&model=ASTRA&year-from=2012&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=tw89de&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&aggregatedTrim=Elite&body-type=Estate&page=1)
I'd then keep the Zaf for work and odd times we need more seats.
DONT buy 1.6 auto, Tunnie. They are slooooooooow. Look for a diesel 2.0 auto, like you zaf and my astra, more powerful, more frugal. That is, of course, unless it's for pootling around, no good for the DPF.
But, whatever, don't get the 1.6 auto.
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What about a Corsa?
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What about a Corsa?
Vauxhall's are ok, Terry, but other makes are available. Having said that, once any car reaches a certain age, it is bound to have problems.
I guess you like Vauxhalls because you're used to working on them, but Fords are much the same, and abundant. Of course, you wouldn't have the forum to fall back on.
Decisions, decisions.
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What about a Corsa?
Same engine family as the Astra... And we all know how that's working out.
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This morning 0845 I rang the garage and asked them to change the oil pressure warning light switch. Man replied he did not think that would cure it. Apparently yesterday, after they had rung me, they tried it again, and it made a nasty noise and the light came on again. He suggests an engine flush, I agreed. Bad news.
Either you have terrible luck with Astras, or you are the best advert for why I shouldn't entertain picking up a snotter Astra when the Skoda goes!
Not a ten year old one, anyway.
Yup. £6-8k would get a far better example. Part of me is tempted to get MrsT an Astra petrol Estate, when my Omega rusts away.
Something like this:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201805186647865?sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&radius=1500&make=VAUXHALL&model=ASTRA&year-from=2012&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=tw89de&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&aggregatedTrim=Elite&body-type=Estate&page=1 (https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201805186647865?sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&radius=1500&make=VAUXHALL&model=ASTRA&year-from=2012&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=tw89de&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&aggregatedTrim=Elite&body-type=Estate&page=1)
I'd then keep the Zaf for work and odd times we need more seats.
DONT buy 1.6 auto, Tunnie. They are slooooooooow. Look for a diesel 2.0 auto, like you zaf and my astra, more powerful, more frugal. That is, of course, unless it's for pootling around, no good for the DPF.
But, whatever, don't get the 1.6 auto.
Thanks for tip, I do like the 2.0 CDTi - We've had no issues, I've noticed it doing DPF cycles and they appear short and return to normal revs after.
But MrsT is doing more and more shorter quick runs, like taking Little MissT to swimming. Engine barely gets warm, although we do use it a lot for longer runs at weekends.
Might seek out the 1.4T petrol in Astra, when/if time comes.
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This morning 0845 I rang the garage and asked them to change the oil pressure warning light switch. Man replied he did not think that would cure it. Apparently yesterday, after they had rung me, they tried it again, and it made a nasty noise and the light came on again. He suggests an engine flush, I agreed. Bad news.
Either you have terrible luck with Astras, or you are the best advert for why I shouldn't entertain picking up a snotter Astra when the Skoda goes!
Not a ten year old one, anyway.
Yup. £6-8k would get a far better example. Part of me is tempted to get MrsT an Astra petrol Estate, when my Omega rusts away.
Something like this:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201805186647865?sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&radius=1500&make=VAUXHALL&model=ASTRA&year-from=2012&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=tw89de&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&aggregatedTrim=Elite&body-type=Estate&page=1 (https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201805186647865?sort=sponsored&advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&radius=1500&make=VAUXHALL&model=ASTRA&year-from=2012&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=tw89de&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&aggregatedTrim=Elite&body-type=Estate&page=1)
I'd then keep the Zaf for work and odd times we need more seats.
DONT buy 1.6 auto, Tunnie. They are slooooooooow. Look for a diesel 2.0 auto, like you zaf and my astra, more powerful, more frugal. That is, of course, unless it's for pootling around, no good for the DPF.
But, whatever, don't get the 1.6 auto.
Thanks for tip, I do like the 2.0 CDTi - We've had no issues, I've noticed it doing DPF cycles and they appear short and return to normal revs after.
But MrsT is doing more and more shorter quick runs, like taking Little MissT to swimming. Engine barely gets warm, although we do use it a lot for longer runs at weekends.
Might seek out the 1.4T petrol in Astra, when/if time comes.
A much better choice :y
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What about a Corsa?
Vauxhall's are ok, Terry, but other makes are available. Having said that, once any car reaches a certain age, it is bound to have problems.
I guess you like Vauxhalls because you're used to working on them, but Fords are much the same, and abundant. Of course, you wouldn't have the forum to fall back on.
Decisions, decisions.
Quite so. Having scrapped three Omegas last Autumn (MOT rust failures) I sought advice on this forum, and Astras seemed attractive. Road tested one for sale locally £850, liked it, bought it. Splendid car. Bought another £330, MOT failure, on emissions test it seized up, oil starvation. Bought another £795, here we are.
Last new car I bought, 1978, was a Volkswagen Passat, nothing but trouble. I have owned Austins, Morris's, Fords, Citroens, Peugeots, Rovers and recently Vauxhalls; not to mention a Cotton 250 Villiers twin, a BSA Road Rocket 650, and 2 Velocette Venoms 500.
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That's a grand worth of Omega derusting...
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What about a Corsa?
Same engine family as the Astra... And we all know how that's working out.
Yep 100% agree
but the corsa will probably have suffered even worse bad maintenance than an astra.
@ 120k semi synthetic or even mineral 10w40 would have been my choice.
little vauxhall engines don't like synthetic oil from my experience .
as for the garage flushing it , that is what you have done by putting in 5w30
yes you cleaned the sump ,BUT all the rest of the engine gunge from head,oilways and sides of the castings of the block etc is now dissolved, probably partly blocking the filter and pick up.
as with the last engine, I advise you drain it,new filter,new 10w40 semi or even thicker 15w40 mineral oil.
any car you buy needs oil suitable for the wear on the engine , I tend to buy lower mile cars and do cambelt and service etc .
important that a car has a credible documented service history unless yu know the seller. and it looks like the astras you have purchased have questionable history and high miles .
try the oil change and filter and make sure it is cooling correctly would be my advice . AGAIN :D
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This morning I delivered my spare car, the 3.2 ex-plod Omega, to my daughter at Enfield, who needs it for her work.
I had hoped to return home in the Astra, and had begged Lavender Hill Garage to change the oil pressure warning light switch, change the oil filter and replace the 5W30 oil with 10W40 or thicker. They would hear none of it. Their cure for my problems was to flush the oil system, change the filter, replace the oil with new 5W30, and test it. When I arrived they believed they had cured the faults.
I set off for home nervously at 0940. I caught the M25 off guard and there was no congestion and no speed restrictions. Car was running well. I switched to the M4, kept going, in fact barely stopped all the way home. In spite of 20mph speed limits in Bath, Timsbury and Paulton, I arrived home at 1201, not bad for a 143 mile journey. The oil light never came on. After lunch I checked all fluid levels, all were OK.
What do you make of that?
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Is it possible that a bit of crud had got stuck in the pressure relief valve-or somewhere else-and that the flush/oil change has now shifted that?
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Please Terry , just dump the P155 out and put TC semi 10w40 in it ::) pretty please ;D
more in-depth , your P155 oil flushed out more crap, probably blocking the filter partly, doing a flush and re-filling with P155 has flushed it again .
putting in TC semi or full fat mineral (with more frequent changes )will be less hassle in the long run ,like mot time when P155 oil will make smoke
also please check the engine rad fans work when the car is hot ,and check the coolant tempreture sensor reading is accurately
JM2PW ;D
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Sounds like a result :y but is it just me; I only use Vaux original oil filters ???
I did the same for my Astra`s & I`ve got a few VOF93 filters still in stock
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Please Terry , just dump the P155 out and put TC semi 10w40 in it ::) pretty please ;D
more in-depth , your P155 oil flushed out more crap, probably blocking the filter partly, doing a flush and re-filling with P155 has flushed it again .
putting in TC semi or full fat mineral (with more frequent changes )will be less hassle in the long run ,like mot time when P155 oil will make smoke
also please check the engine rad fans work when the car is hot ,and check the coolant tempreture sensor reading is accurately
JM2PW ;D
Eh?
Ran car up to 94 degrees coolant temperature. fan had still not kicked in, I wonder why. Failed fan, another sensor, failed relay, somthing else?
Diagnostic also stated oil level normal, oil pressure underpressured. I changed the oil to 10W40, also changed the filter. It's running up to temp now, but still saying underpressured. Please advise.
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Terry, you must stop guessing and start measuring.
What is the oil pressure compared to what it should be?
You'll need a gauge, and the appropriate adapter - the set I bought didn't come with one appropriate for the Omega, so I had to make one. Gauge kit like THIS (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Truck-Engine-Diesel-Petrol-Oil-Pressure-Meter-Test-Tester-Gauge-Tool-Kit-UK/254057358713?hash=item3b26ffa579:g:lycAAOSwF5VcM6Fn:rk:7:pf:0), although I don't remember where I got mine.
Other stuff to consider: following on from your seized engine, a look in the sump and crankcase would be sensible . This is a good use for a cheap inspection camera(£40ish or £5 for one that plugs into a phone)
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This afternoon I repeated the morning's exercise, with 10W40 in the sump, same result. This time I got the temperature up to 99 degrees, but still the fan had not engaged. I wonder how it knows the oil pressure is low, is there another sensor somewhere?
I still reckon the fan should have kicked in. When daughter-in-law's Streetwise failed similarly during MOT emission test, boiling coolant making quite a mess in the MOT bay, a change of coolant sensor cured matters and the car passed MOT later the same day.
Both the RAC man and the garage mentioned a worrying noise. Today I heard it too. It is an intermittent rattling at the top of the cylinder head.
Thanks for your advice, Nick. I am surprised how cheap oil pressure measuring kits are. The one you depict contains a number of adapters. Can anyone recommend a set which contains the right adapter?
I have had the sump off this car twice. I could drop it a third time if I knew what I was looking for.
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Does it have variable valve timing?
There's an electrical valve on both cams at the belt end. Accessible either side of the head without removing anything else.
If yes, remove both valves and remove the gauze from them. Refit without.
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What is reporting low oil pressure ? the oil light on the dash ,or your code reader ?
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I think you need to measure the oil pressure properly with a gauge.
I won't get hot enough to lose oil pressure without the coolant boiling over, at least with the modern synthetic oil it used to have in it. Who knows with dead dinosaurs? ::)
I wouldn't be surprised if the fan doesn't kick in until 100 degrees C or more, and who knows how accurate the gauge is?
It's telling you the oil pressure is low so that's what you need to check.
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What is reporting low oil pressure ? the oil light on the dash ,or your code reader ?
Code reader
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Does it have variable valve timing?
There's an electrical valve on both cams at the belt end. Accessible either side of the head without removing anything else.
If yes, remove both valves and remove the gauze from them. Refit without.
Haynes says it has variable valve timing. Will investigate.
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What is reporting low oil pressure ? the oil light on the dash ,or your code reader ?
Code reader
I'm not aware of an oil sender switch that measures oil pressure on the 1.6 16v engine ,other than the simple on/off switch that turns off the red oil light on the dash.
therefore ,i fail to see how a code reader could know the oil pressure ,other than to report "low oil pressure teltale lamp illuminated" or a similar message which would bring on the red light on the dash
find an oil pressure gauge that will screw into the oil warning sender hole on the head as advised :y
sounds like your code reader info may be duff and that needs confirming properly .
do a full code read on all modules if you have that code reader that can't be talked about :-X you can also test actuate the fans etc
is this the poverty spec LIFE model ? in which case,the cd30 does not have the full compliment of wiring for steering controls OR the extra connections required for trip computer etc . though you can read reported engine temp ,but that is better done with live data .
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Thanks for your advice, Nick. I am surprised how cheap oil pressure measuring kits are. The one you depict contains a number of adapters. Can anyone recommend a set which contains the right adapter?
I bought the set, and then spent some time looking for a suitable adapter(male M14x1,5 and female 1/8BSP). I couldn't find any metric, which is why I made one.
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What is reporting low oil pressure ? the oil light on the dash ,or your code reader ?
Code reader
I'm not aware of an oil sender switch that measures oil pressure on the 1.6 16v engine ,other than the simple on/off switch that turns off the red oil light on the dash.
therefore ,i fail to see how a code reader could know the oil pressure ,other than to report "low oil pressure teltale lamp illuminated" or a similar message which would bring on the red light on the dash
find an oil pressure gauge that will screw into the oil warning sender hole on the head as advised :y
sounds like your code reader info may be duff and that needs confirming properly .
do a full code read on all modules if you have that code reader that can't be talked about :-X you can also test actuate the fans etc
is this the poverty spec LIFE model ? in which case,the cd30 does not have the full compliment of wiring for steering controls OR the extra connections required for trip computer etc . though you can read reported engine temp ,but that is better done with live data .
Yes, it's the poverty spec LIFE model. I read the engine temp with live data. The oil light goes out on starting engine. I did not know I could test switch the fans with the cheapo data reader. I will try in the morning.
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What about a Corsa?
Vauxhall's are ok, Terry, but other makes are available. Having said that, once any car reaches a certain age, it is bound to have problems.
I guess you like Vauxhalls because you're used to working on them, but Fords are much the same, and abundant. Of course, you wouldn't have the forum to fall back on.
Decisions, decisions.
Quite so. Having scrapped three Omegas last Autumn (MOT rust failures) I sought advice on this forum, and Astras seemed attractive. Road tested one for sale locally £850, liked it, bought it. Splendid car. Bought another £330, MOT failure, on emissions test it seized up, oil starvation. Bought another £795, here we are.
Last new car I bought, 1978, was a Volkswagen Passat, nothing but trouble. I have owned Austins, Morris's, Fords, Citroens, Peugeots, Rovers and recently Vauxhalls; not to mention a Cotton 250 Villiers twin, a BSA Road Rocket 650, and 2 Velocette Venoms 500.
What? and no Black Shadow Terry? ::)
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No. I believe it was quite fast for the 1960s, but then the Japanese multis came along, and they were much faster.
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No. I believe it was quite fast for the 1960s, but then the Japanese multis came along, and they were much faster.
True, but the Shadow also looked the business, unlike the Black Knight which succeeded it. I still think the Rapide and Shadow were the most beautiful bikes ever built. :y
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No. I believe it was quite fast for the 1960s, but then the Japanese multis came along, and they were much faster.
True, but the Shadow also looked the business, unlike the Black Knight which succeeded it. I still think the Rapide and Shadow were the most beautiful bikes ever built. :y
Not sure I have ever seen one, but I parked my Velocette beside a Vincent Comet every day at Culham Laboratory and thought mine the smarter. At my bedside is the 1959 Motor Cycling booklet of Sports Model Road Tests 1959, Black Shadow page attached.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/574inn9d3pmt4b6/vincent.jpg?dl=1)
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Woops, too big.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/77jnydzm6o6nmb8/VINCENTreduced.jpg?dl=1)
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Back to the Astra . . .
Thanks to all for advice. This morning I ran the engine temp up to 105 degrees, and still the fan did not kick in. Summat wrong there.
I looked for other sensors in the radiator - Omegas have two - but could see none. Checked fuse 6 - OK - that leaves relays K12 and K13, check those next. I found the fan plug and socket bottom left of radiator, might check for volts there. Dead fan motor?
My Chinese code and live data reader still says oil pressure 'underpressured', but it says the same for the aircon, and this car does not have aircon, so 'underpressured' means 'don't know'. I must buy an oil pressure testing kit. The kit Nick W. suggested has a M14 x 1.5mm adapter which he says fits the thread in the block. I'll settle for that.
Thanks DG for your intriguing suggestion. I shall pursue it.
Any more thoughts?
u
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I suspected the fan may not be kicking in
London traffic +hot engine+no fan =oil light :P
was the rad hot (wet stat open ) at 105 degrees :-\
coolant temp sensor is on the head
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My Chinese code and live data reader still says oil pressure 'underpressured', but it says the same for the aircon, and this car does not have aircon, so 'underpressured' means 'don't know'. I must buy an oil pressure testing kit. The kit Nick W. suggested has a M14 x 1.5mm adapter which he says fits the thread in the block. I'll settle for that.
Nick said that M14x1.5 fits an Omega block. It might fit an Astra.
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Mrs Builders is a 1.6 LIFE and that has aircon :-\
if it had aircon and it's been badly removed ,that could screw up rad fan function :-\
does it have ac compressor on the serpentine belt ?
quick look and the oil switch is M10 x 1 mm (ebay listings spec,z16xep)
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My Chinese code and live data reader still says oil pressure 'underpressured', but it says the same for the aircon, and this car does not have aircon, so 'underpressured' means 'don't know'. I must buy an oil pressure testing kit. The kit Nick W. suggested has a M14 x 1.5mm adapter which he says fits the thread in the block. I'll settle for that.
Nick said that M14x1.5 fits an Omega block. It might fit an Astra.
Thanks for the correction. Dave below says Astra thread is 10mm x !. That's in the kit too.
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I suspected the fan may not be kicking in
London traffic +hot engine+no fan =oil light :P
was the rad hot (wet stat open ) at 105 degrees :-\
coolant temp sensor is on the head
You were dead right about the fan not engaging. Haynes says the temperature sensor on the 1.6 is in the thermostat housing. I changed the thermostat before I handed the car over to my daughter, because the heater was not working well. Just thought I should mention it. Heater worked well on the drive back from Enfield.
I did not feel the radiator when the coolant temp was 105 degrees. It was a struggle to get the coolant temp to 105, and the car did get me 143 miles home at a cracking pace with the heater good and hot, so I presume the thermostat was working all right.
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On my Omegas I often hear the fan whirring away when I come to rest after a hot run. I've never heard that on this Astra. I see from the wiring diagram that there are two power lines to the fan, presumably for different fan speeds. The fan is not seized, can be flicked round. My hunch is that the fan motor has failed. Any comments?
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On my Omegas I often hear the fan whirring away when I come to rest after a hot run. I've never heard that on this Astra. I see from the wiring diagram that there are two power lines to the fan, presumably for different fan speeds. The fan is not seized, can be flicked round. My hunch is that the fan motor has failed. Any comments?
Apply battery power to directly to the fan and see if it works. A powerprobe is the tool for this, but a couple of lengths of wire will do.
If the fan works, then check the wiring, switch and relay(if it has one).
Don't forget that the engine is small, and the radiator efficient so the fan probably isn't needed much.
The fan on my 1.8 Metro on the stock, old 1.1 radiator only cuts in when sitting in London traffic. At least it does now I've reconnected it to a thermo switch rather than the stupid manual one the previous owner bodged for peace of mind ???
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Yep, it's not going to be nearly as reliant on the fan as a V6 Omega. If it hasn't actually overheated I would concentrate on the main issue which is oil pressure.
Does the oil pressure light come on now, and under what conditions?
High revs / Low revs / Idle revs?
Hot engine / cold engine?
After a long motorway run?
After a long period of idling?
etc.
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Yep, it's not going to be nearly as reliant on the fan as a V6 Omega. If it hasn't actually overheated I would concentrate on the main issue which is oil pressure.
Does the oil pressure light come on now, and under what conditions?
High revs / Low revs / Idle revs?
Hot engine / cold engine?
After a long motorway run?
After a long period of idling?
etc.
Not come on since collection in London.
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Check those vvt solenoid valves... If it's already experiencing top end rattles you want to get it done sooner than later ;)
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On my Omegas I often hear the fan whirring away when I come to rest after a hot run. I've never heard that on this Astra. I see from the wiring diagram that there are two power lines to the fan, presumably for different fan speeds. The fan is not seized, can be flicked round. My hunch is that the fan motor has failed. Any comments?
Apply battery power to directly to the fan and see if it works. A powerprobe is the tool for this, but a couple of lengths of wire will do.
If the fan works, then check the wiring, switch and relay(if it has one).
Don't forget that the engine is small, and the radiator efficient so the fan probably isn't needed much.
The fan on my 1.8 Metro on the stock, old 1.1 radiator only cuts in when sitting in London traffic. At least it does now I've reconnected it to a thermo switch rather than the stupid manual one the previous owner bodged for peace of mind ???
Rather what I had in mind. What's a powerprobe? Can I buy one in Halfords or at a motor factor? In the past I have struggled to stick needles into caled to deliver test power.
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Yep, it's not going to be nearly as reliant on the fan as a V6 Omega. If it hasn't actually overheated I would concentrate on the main issue which is oil pressure.
Does the oil pressure light come on now, and under what conditions?
High revs / Low revs / Idle revs?
Hot engine / cold engine?
After a long motorway run?
After a long period of idling?
etc.
Not come on since collection in London.
OK. In that case, I would probably hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and check the oil pressure with that, when fully warmed up, at idle and fast idle. If it meets Vauxhall's spec. then replace the oil pressure switch and call it done. If not, then next actions depend on under what circumstances the pressure's low.
If it happens when sitting in traffic, then maybe, just maybe, overheating is a factor although I'd expect it to have boiled over by now if that's the case.
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I suspected the fan may not be kicking in
London traffic +hot engine+no fan =oil light :P
was the rad hot (wet stat open ) at 105 degrees :-\
coolant temp sensor is on the head
You were dead right about the fan not engaging. Haynes says the temperature sensor on the 1.6 is in the thermostat housing.
sorry,yes on the wet stat housing
unplugging the coolant temp sensor should put the fan on high (does on most vauxhalls :-\) when the engine is running . which is a test to try (takes seconds to do ,will out EML on and throw a code but will reset when plugged back in )
so I presume the thermostat was working all right.
NEVER assume :o always test ;D :y
so my thoughts are, now you have 10w40 semi and a clean filter ,oil will be fine (but please check pressure when your test kit arrives )
it's vital the electric fan works though , when hot ,and what you can check and sort while waiting for the oil pressure test kit . :y
fan is vital because if the cooling system is not working then when overheating in traffic,the oil light will come on ,followed by blown head gasket ,which ,is dashed inconvenient ;D and will be a faf to sort on a z16 xep (i know because i stripped the head off one for a mate when he cooked it )
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I suspected the fan may not be kicking in
London traffic +hot engine+no fan =oil light :P
was the rad hot (wet stat open ) at 105 degrees :-\
coolant temp sensor is on the head
You were dead right about the fan not engaging. Haynes says the temperature sensor on the 1.6 is in the thermostat housing.
sorry,yes on the wet stat housing
unplugging the coolant temp sensor should put the fan on high (does on most vauxhalls :-\) when the engine is running . which is a test to try (takes seconds to do ,will out EML on and throw a code but will reset when plugged back in )
so I presume the thermostat was working all right.
NEVER assume :o always test ;D :y
so my thoughts are, now you have 10w40 semi and a clean filter ,oil will be fine (but please check pressure when your test kit arrives )
it's vital the electric fan works though , when hot ,and what you can check and sort while waiting for the oil pressure test kit . :y
fan is vital because if the cooling system is not working then when overheating in traffic,the oil light will come on ,followed by blown head gasket ,which ,is dashed inconvenient ;D and will be a faf to sort on a z16 xep (i know because i stripped the head off one for a mate when he cooked it )
Unplugged coolant sensor, ran engine; EML came on, fan did not turn. Looks like failed fan motor, don't it?
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Terry you have mail. :y
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Unplugged coolant sensor, ran engine; EML came on, fan did not turn. Looks like failed fan motor, don't it?
Not necessarily, more likely to be a fuse or relay or failed speed resistor .
more testing required :y
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Unplugged coolant sensor, ran engine; EML came on, fan did not turn. Looks like failed fan motor, don't it?
That does not test the fan motor. Bridging the terminals on the sensor plug ought to start the fan.
POWERPROBE (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RA17CS/ref=asc_df_B000RA17CS58142110/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B000RA17CS&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205291394354&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2889533051684525521&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006618&hvtargid=pla-421479303029&th=1&psc=1) You do need to be careful when using one around electronic gadgets, but they're very handy
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Unplugged coolant sensor, ran engine; EML came on, fan did not turn. Looks like failed fan motor, don't it?
Not necessarily, more likely to be a fuse or relay or failed speed resistor .
more testing required :y
I have checked fuse 6, it's OK. I could change relays K12 and K13, but the resistor I believe is in the fan motor. I imagined as there are 2 relays they would not both fail at the same time.
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Unplugged coolant sensor, ran engine; EML came on, fan did not turn. Looks like failed fan motor, don't it?
That does not test the fan motor. Bridging the terminals on the sensor plug ought to start the fan.
POWERPROBE (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RA17CS/ref=asc_df_B000RA17CS58142110/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B000RA17CS&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205291394354&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2889533051684525521&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006618&hvtargid=pla-421479303029&th=1&psc=1) You do need to be careful when using one around electronic gadgets, but they're very handy
Is bridging the terminals of the temperature sensor cable conclusive a test? I thought that with a water temp reading of 105 thta would be the same thing.
The Powerprobe looks a useful tool. I presume from the picture I connect the croc clip leads to the battery terminals, attach the earth lead to earth, push the probe into a positive wire to the fan, press a switch contact, and the fan should then spin, unless the motor is faulty. It avoids the temp sensor, the fuse and the relays. It would not avoid the resistor, but I imagine trying both power leads, one goes through the resistor and the other direct to the motor. More reliable than my pushing a needle into the wire.
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You could also simply connect the fan motor to the battery ::)
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Terry you have mail. :y
Replied
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You could also simply connect the fan motor to the battery ::)
Not simply with it in the car. A socket from the loom connects with a plug to the motor. Maybe I could remove the plug from the motor surround and get access to the pins, I will investigate.
Today my sister borrowed my last Omega while she has her Mokka body repaired. My only transport is the Astra. She wants to sell the Mokka because she keeps crashing it and wants something smaller, and thinks she will get more for it when it is immaculate.
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If you think the fan should be running and it's not, unplug the fan motor and check for 12V at the plug. If there's 12V there, then it's an indication that the motor might be failed. If not, then either the ECU doesn't think it's hot enough or there's a relay / fuse upstream that's failed.
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You can also make a test lead using the fan loom from the seized car...
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You can also make a test lead using the fan loom from the seized car...
Good tip. I think it's a different socket. I unplugged the socket easily on the 08 car, today trying to salvage the fan off the seized 04 car it was a nightmare unplugging it. Will check in the morning.
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You could also simply connect the fan motor to the battery ::)
I did say that. A powerprobe makes powering stuff like motors whether on the car or on the bench quick and easy. It also enables you to add power or another earth which makes for efficient diagnosis of wiring/connector issues. They basic ones like in the link are cheap enough that if you do simple electrical work it will quickly pay for itself in time and reduced hassle. You do need to be careful using one in modern systems though.
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The astra is it a petrol or diesel? And what year is it?
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The astra is it a petrol or diesel? And what year is it?
It's a 2008 Astra H 2008 manual.
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The astra is it a petrol or diesel? And what year is it?
It's a 2008 Astra H 2008 manual.
Petrol
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The coolant temperature sensor on the wet thermostat is to send temperature information to the engine ecu . the engine ecu decides IF the fan should be on and activates relays to power the plug at the bottom of the fan shroud ,
that plug is a fan speed resistor , depending on how hot then rad is ,the resistor pack will turn on the fan and control it's speed ,and send info back to the ecu to say what speed etc
you'd need to back probe that plug with power to the L+ and N- which is best done fan removed (because it's a pig to reach and it will probably bring the fan on ,which will eat any fingers etc anywhere near it , so be careful
re the relays , one failing will stop the fan working , as will any blown fuse in the circuit , it's not a back up relay system .
also in live data you could check fan control 1, 2 and 3 (active or inactive) radiator coolant temperature voltage and temp reading when warm etc
also also with the :-X codereader :-X you can do output tests to check fan and blower motors
also also also ;D did you confirm that the car has NO aircon ? and never has
I.E compressor,condenser,front rad fan not present :-\
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I was right, different socket. Here are plug and socket on the 04 car (fan now removed from car)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/a3841iyizhyq0qp/04fanPLUG.jpg?dl=1)
and here are the 08 plug and socket
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/0zw5d5wti0osaea/08fanPLUG.jpg?dl=1)
There are 4 wires and pins 0n the 04, heavier wires too, only 2 wires and 3 pins on the 08.
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There are 4 wires and pins 0n the 04, heavier wires too,
only 2 wires and 3 pins on the 08.
on the 08 ,where the loom plugs in (fan speed resister ).I think you'll find 2 wires to run to the actual fan motor(this is what you put 12v to to test fan ) BUT 3 wires on the plug/car loom :y
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have we found out what the actual oil pressure is yet? :-\
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look at this example motor and resistor clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Radiator-Fan-Motor-Fan-Blower-Motor-Radiator-Astra-H-Zafira-B-Vauxhall/352552324068?hash=item5215c18be4:g:Om8AAOSwqKNb~FLq)
just red and a brown wire power the motor BUT the plug (which is also speed resistor ) has 3 wires
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have we found out what the actual oil pressure is yet? :-\
No, kit not arrived yet.
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look at this example motor and resistor clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Radiator-Fan-Motor-Fan-Blower-Motor-Radiator-Astra-H-Zafira-B-Vauxhall/352552324068?hash=item5215c18be4:g:Om8AAOSwqKNb~FLq)
just red and a brown wire power the motor BUT the plug (which is also speed resistor ) has 3 wires
Correct. Here is the 04 fan and surround, with the green resistor revealed (below the plug to motor)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/yqqqo2aeseuihwc/04fansocketRESISTOR.jpg?dl=1)
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The coolant temperature sensor on the wet thermostat is to send temperature information to the engine ecu . the engine ecu decides IF the fan should be on and activates relays to power the plug at the bottom of the fan shroud ,
that plug is a fan speed resistor , depending on how hot then rad is ,the resistor pack will turn on the fan and control it's speed ,and send info back to the ecu to say what speed etc
you'd need to back probe that plug with power to the L+ and N- which is best done fan removed (because it's a pig to reach and it will probably bring the fan on ,which will eat any fingers etc anywhere near it , so be careful
re the relays , one failing will stop the fan working , as will any blown fuse in the circuit , it's not a back up relay system .
also in live data you could check fan control 1, 2 and 3 (active or inactive) radiator coolant temperature voltage and temp reading when warm etc
also also with the :-X codereader :-X you can do output tests to check fan and blower motors
also also also ;D did you confirm that the car has NO aircon ? and never has
I.E compressor,condenser,front rad fan not present :-\
The car has no aircon.
I tried checking control of the fan with my Chinese code and live reader.
As shown in pic, I have found the resistor behind the plug on the lead to the fan, but I do not think it controls the fan speed, that is done by the ECU. There are 2 relays shown in Haynes, one turns on the fan at a lower speed, the current going through the resistor, and the other feeds current direct to the fan motor. I reckon the resistor is located where it is to be cooled by the fan draught.
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So ,if you know which relays do the back rad fan , bypass one at a time and see if your fan spins up :y ,assume you have now tried the fan directly connected to a battery or power probe :-\ refitted fan :P
video here clicky (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko5Un7Fz73w) for cars with air con but your's won't be all that different ,just no front fan and 2 relays not 3
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You could also simply connect the fan motor to the battery ::)
Not so difficult after all, as I found with the 04 fan on the bench.
Applying 12 volts across pins 1 and 2 fan spins merrily up. 12v across pins 1 and 3 again fan spins up. So the fan and resistor are OK. I checked fuse 6, it was OK. I will check it again. That just leaves the relays, but they can't have both failed can they? And the ECU, and the loom.
Please advise.
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So ,if you know which relays do the back rad fan , bypass one at a time and see if your fan spins up :y ,assume you have now tried the fan directly connected to a battery or power probe :-\ refitted fan :P
video here clicky (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko5Un7Fz73w) for cars with air con but your's won't be all that different ,just no front fan and 2 relays not 3
I just pop the lids off so I can:
1) Observe if the contacts are making when activated
2) You can then manually press the relay contacts together to see the fan (or other ancillary) operate
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Tantalising suggestion - but how do I pop the lids off?
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Have a good look at a spare relay ;)
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Swapped relays K12 and K13 (Hella made in USA) for K12 and 13 from 04 car (made in Spain). Idled engine for 30 minutes, fan never turned; disappointing. Plugged in diagnostic, revved engine to raise coolant temperature, at 102 degrees the fan engaged. Phew!
So it looks like it was a failed relay.
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Now sort the top end rattle before it eventually kills another car ;)
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I would just pull the relays ,test them on the bench, then check you have 12v + at the live terminal of the relay socket,then jump the switched and live terminals and see if fan spins up :y
(because you can do that test without the engine being hot and the ecu calling for the fans to be on)
removing the covers may be possible on newer relays , but you run the risk of the covers popping off every time you want to pull the relay ;D
also have you pulled the fuses and checked they are sound with a continuity tester / multi meter ,or are you just looking ,thinking they are ok :-\
Swapped relays K12 and K13 (Hella made in USA) for K12 and 13 from 04 car (made in Spain). Idled engine for 30 minutes, fan never turned; disappointing. Plugged in diagnostic, revved engine to raise coolant temperature, at 102 degrees the fan engaged. Phew!
So it looks like it was a failed relay.
ok, getting somewhere now ;D
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I would just pull the relays ,test them on the bench, then check you have 12v + at the live terminal of the relay socket,then jump the switched and live terminals and see if fan spins up :y
(because you can do that test without the engine being hot and the ecu calling for the fans to be on)
removing the covers may be possible on newer relays , but you run the risk of the covers popping off every time you want to pull the relay ;D
also have you pulled the fuses and checked they are sound with a continuity tester / multi meter ,or are you just looking ,thinking they are ok :-\
Swapped relays K12 and K13 (Hella made in USA) for K12 and 13 from 04 car (made in Spain). Idled engine for 30 minutes, fan never turned; disappointing. Plugged in diagnostic, revved engine to raise coolant temperature, at 102 degrees the fan engaged. Phew!
So it looks like it was a failed relay.
ok, getting somewhere now ;D
I checked the fuse for continuity, it was OK.
I found popping the relay cover tricky. I have removed one, cracking it in the process. As you say, this could make removing this relay again challenging.
If the fan fails again, I could pop this relay in and press the points closed, then the fan should turn. Or, as you suggest, I could simply remove a relay and put power on the output terminal with a simple link from 12v+ to output terminal, i.e. terminals 85 to 87.
I presume the relay that failed was the low temperature low speed one, if so goodness knows at what temperature the high temp full speed one kicks in.
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Now sort the top end rattle before it eventually kills another car ;)
Next job, Doc, but I shall wait until sister returns my Omega.
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I presume the relay that failed was the low temperature low speed one, if so goodness knows at what temperature the high temp full speed one kicks in.
Probably says that on the sensor....
I wouldn't bother with dismantling relays, but keep a couple of spares. You've broken a number of cars Terry, emptying one of the relay boxes would have been a good idea.
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Now sort the top end rattle before it eventually kills another car ;)
Next job, Doc, but I shall wait until sister returns my Omega.
Why wait? Removing those gauze filters takes ten minutes including a making a cup of tea ???
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Agree with getting rid of the filters, but it was probably noisy due to the excessive heat.
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Blocked gauzes won't help any. ;)
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Hi Doc,
just checking - are these shells the gauzes to remove?
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/iboo72sw3rwlb3y/VVR%20gauzes.jpg?dl=1)
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Them's the ones :y
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Is it missing an O ring? There is one O ring, just behind the third groove, but no bigger O ring in the groove by the bolt bracket.
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I honestly don't know. How does it compare to the other one?
Been about 6 years since I did this to my '58 Vectra. I do recall that it was MarkDTM who suggested it.
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Presumably there was a reason why Opel fitted those gauzes originally. Why are we now removing them?
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Ford fit gauzes on the oil feed to the turbo on their infamous PSA engined cars too. They clog with sludge and have ruined many a turbo. Ok for filtering petrol (like we had in the carburettor days) but unless you’re spot on with oil changes they will cause problems. I always recommend removing them when I supply turbos for these. BMW had trouble with the early 320d when they had gauze filters fitted to the camcover breathing system too. Of course good maintenance is the key, and as we know they are old school and were fitted to most of the really old stuff.
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Presumably there was a reason why Opel fitted those gauzes originally. Why are we now removing them?
Mark can confirm, but I believe Vauxhall issued a service bulletin about them :y
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So reason for removal is risk of clogging causing oil starvation in poorly maintained engines. You see in pic that mine were not clogged. I suppose oil flow will be improved without them.
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The recent oil changes will have helped, as pretty much all the detritus is carbon build up from the oil around the engine. ;)
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Gauzes now removed. I see I can buy a new actuator for US$9.28 plus carriage, cheap enough, presumably including gauzes.
It's not clear to me why clogging of the gauzes should wreck the engine. The valve timing would cease to vary, which would affect performance, bit like a sticky dual ram. Maybe oil supply to the head moving parts goes via the VVR actuators, so is reduced.
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Ask Fuse19 aka MarkDTM to explain it :y
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Fuse 19, please explain how clogged VVT mesh filters can wreck an Astra H 1.6 petrol engine.
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Ford fit gauzes on the oil feed to the turbo on their infamous PSA engined cars too. They clog with sludge and have ruined many a turbo. Ok for filtering petrol (like we had in the carburettor days) but unless you’re spot on with oil changes they will cause problems. I always recommend removing them when I supply turbos for these. BMW had trouble with the early 320d when they had gauze filters fitted to the camcover breathing system too. Of course good maintenance is the key, and as we know they are old school and were fitted to most of the really old stuff.
I can see that with a turbo clogging of the oil intake filters could be disastrous, but not with variable valve timing actuators.
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Fuse 19, please explain how clogged VVT mesh filters can wreck an Astra H 1.6 petrol engine.
Found it...
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=106945.0
Need to remove the black ones as well, which in your picture, are clearly collecting bits :y
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Reference Information / Bulletin Number
10-06-04-016
Model Year
2008-2011
Vehicle Line / Condition
Engine lack of power with DTCs P0011, P0014, P000A, P000B, P0012, P0015 or engine rattle noise
Do This
Remove the oil filters from the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves
Don't Do This
Don't replace the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves
Remove the inlet solenoid, plug the hole to stop excess oil spillage.
Remove the 2 orange filter bands and the black end cap filter from solenoid.
Refit solenoid
Same for exhaust solenoid if necessary.
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Ford fit gauzes on the oil feed to the turbo on their infamous PSA engined cars too. They clog with sludge and have ruined many a turbo. Ok for filtering petrol (like we had in the carburettor days) but unless you’re spot on with oil changes they will cause problems. I always recommend removing them when I supply turbos for these. BMW had trouble with the early 320d when they had gauze filters fitted to the camcover breathing system too. Of course good maintenance is the key, and as we know they are old school and were fitted to most of the really old stuff.
I can see that with a turbo clogging of the oil intake filters could be disastrous, but not with variable valve timing actuators.
. If anything is rattling then it’s wearing too quickly somethings going to break,as said proper maintenance and correct oil is what’s needed.
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Reference Information / Bulletin Number
10-06-04-016
Model Year
2008-2011
Vehicle Line / Condition
Engine lack of power with DTCs P0011, P0014, P000A, P000B, P0012, P0015 or engine rattle noise
Do This
Remove the oil filters from the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves
Don't Do This
Don't replace the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves
Remove the inlet solenoid, plug the hole to stop excess oil spillage.
Remove the 2 orange filter bands and the black end cap filter from solenoid.
Refit solenoid
Same for exhaust solenoid if necessary.
Thanks Doc.
With respect, I think you may have misinterpreted the bulletin, it is poorly worded. The fault to be corrected is engine lack of power; this may be accompanied by a fault code, engine rattle, or both. I think if engine rattle alone was the sympton, it would have warranted a second bulletin.
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Does it, or does it not suffer from top end rattle?
Regardless, you need to also remove the black filters which your picture clearly shows to be contaminated.
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Put another way, contaminated solenoid valves and low oil pressure won't be doing the valve train any good, especially if it has been overheating.
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Put another way, contaminated solenoid valves and low oil pressure won't be doing the valve train any good, especially if it has been overheating.
And a VVT mechanism that isn't working correctly will definitely affect power delivery! I would expect it to feel flat at high RPM, as VVT fitted to ordinary production cars is intended to add a little extra top end to a torquey engine.
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I expect the rattle was more likely low oil pressure due to the fan not working and starving the cam and lifters of oil .( hot thin oil will pee out the big ends and mains and not reach the head) sitting in traffic.
now the oil is 10w40 semi and the fan works when hot ,and the engine has been flushed and cleaned out with 5w30 and sump removal ;D I doubt the VVT filters will clog ,other than blobs of excess sealant from the sump sealing .
I also expect oil pressure will be ok now and with regular* changes of oil and filter ,all will be good
*regular , London driving,sitting in traffic etc 3 to 5k max
I think all this work when the oil light blinked on ,could have been resolved at the garage ,had the muppets given the car a proper test , I.E , got the car up to temperature ,checked the fans worked ::), a quick run up the road does not check anything .
and this long thread ,makes astras look complicated and problematic ,when in fact ,they are good cars *
*when serviced correctly and faults diagnosed correctly and methodically
I'd advise anyone to check the fans kick in when hot on an car when they first get it, preferably before handing over the money :y
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I agree Astras are great, I have a 1.6 16V Astra G bifuel (but I’ve put a set of injectors in at the top of the manifold) had it 6 years ITS had hell but keeps going through it all.
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Which of course does not have Variable valve timing. :)
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Yes , I love the simplicity of the astra g ,particularly the 8 valve ;D
great cars ,sadly tin worm problems with the rear arches /sills (much like omega FL ) if no preventative rustproofing is done .
VVT filters probably clog because 85% of astra drivers don't ever rev beyond 3k :P 70mph ;D
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Ha ha be ok for me then I’m never under 3k :D
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Nice sunny clear day, took the Astra out for a 60 mile thrash on the Mendip Hills. Wells, Priddy, Wookey Hole, Cheddar, Harptree, Cameley, the plucky thing never missed a beat, drove well, no warning lights on, really not so much wrong with it, I thought.
Passing the Hunters Lodge at Priddy I espied five old gentlemen on English motorcycles, so I pulled in for a chat. Turned out they were the Bath Oldies, and they do such outings on sunny days. There were an Ariel 500, a Norton 600, two Triumph twins and an ex WD BSA 350 side valve in olive green, solid rear end and girder front forks. That BSA brought back memories ,you could buy one of those in the 1950s, new, for £29 10 shillings, from Pride & Clarke, war surplus.
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Nice sunny clear day, took the Astra out for a 60 mile thrash on the Mendip Hills. Wells, Priddy, Wookey Hole, Cheddar, Harptree, Cameley, the plucky thing never missed a beat, drove well, no warning lights on, really not so much wrong with it, I thought.
Passing the Hunters Lodge at Priddy I espied five old gentlemen on English motorcycles, so I pulled in for a chat. Turned out they were the Bath Oldies, and they do such outings on sunny days. There were an Ariel 500, a Norton 600, two Triumph twins and an ex WD BSA 350 side valve in olive green, solid rear end and girder front forks. That BSA brought back memories ,you could buy one of those in the 1950s, new, for £29 10 shillings, from Pride & Clarke, war surplus.
My second bike was an ex WD 350 OHV Ariel, same solid frame and girder forks. Later converted to AMC swinging arm and tele's for scrambling. Happy days. :y
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..... That BSA brought back memories ,you could buy one of those in the 1950s, new, for £29 10 shillings, from Pride & Clarke, war surplus.
but what did you get paid? ::)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2AcJSkUw6M&t=4s ;) ;)
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I agree
I expect the rattle was more likely low oil pressure due to the fan not working and starving the cam and lifters of oil .( hot thin oil will pee out the big ends and mains and not reach the head) sitting in traffic.
now the oil is 10w40 semi and the fan works when hot ,and the engine has been flushed and cleaned out with 5w30 and sump removal ;D I doubt the VVT filters will clog ,other than blobs of excess sealant from the sump sealing .
I also expect oil pressure will be ok now and with regular* changes of oil and filter ,all will be good
*regular , London driving,sitting in traffic etc 3 to 5k max
I think all this work when the oil light blinked on ,could have been resolved at the garage ,had the muppets given the car a proper test , I.E , got the car up to temperature ,checked the fans worked ::), a quick run up the road does not check anything .
and this long thread ,makes astras look complicated and problematic ,when in fact ,they are good cars *
*when serviced correctly and faults diagnosed correctly and methodically
I'd advise anyone to check the fans kick in when hot on an car when they first get it, preferably before handing over the money :y
I agree.
After the trouble free and brisk run from Enfield to Midsomer Norton 3 week ago, I have driven this car every day with no trouble. The cooling fan now works (changed the relays), and I have changed the oil to 10W40 and the oil filter. In 800 miles no warning lights have come on, no breakdowns or failures have occured, and the car drives all right for a FWD vehicle. All fluid levels remain OK. One fault remains, an engine rattle on cold start. I think that warrants a new thread. Thanks to all for help.