Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: jay99 on 17 November 2014, 13:02:06
-
Hello again!
I haven't posted in ages as my omega hasn't been driven often since I've got to uni but the problem is as follows:
Car was running fine but the next morning I go to start it up, it cranks very strongly, there is popping and banging but it simply won't fire. Deduced that it wasn't the immobiliser since no flashing light and no code.
AA guy comes out, puts extra 5 litres of fuel, redoes the can sensor wiring since its a bit iffy, sprays easystart, finds cam sensor code and puts code down to cam sensor. Even though I protest and say that it should still start without one.
Problem is, the crank sensor was changed 6 months back and is virtually new, but the clutch was changed a few weeks ago, so it might have been disturbed.
Would a faulty can sensor cause these issues? Car was running perfectly I don't see how this could have happened so suddenly.
Now, its parked in a space where I'm repeatedly getting parking tickets and I want to take it into a garage but I can't find a backstreet one in York (where I've moved to) and most ones I've telephoned seem to charge 40-45 an hour!!!!
What does the forum deduce? I also have a feeling of deja vu as I've had this issue before and it was the crank sensor which I replaced and it was fine but now I'm being told cam??? Could the clutch change somehow have disturbed the crank sensor?
Help!!
Thanks
-
Was it a genuine crank sensor? If not, it may well have failed early. Pattern ones tend to be rubbish. Wouldn't be surprised if the cam sensor has gone too, as it's a common issue on 4 pots, and if both have failed, there is no chance of it starting, even in limp mode.
-
Sounds the obvious one, but get it somewhere safe / /decent. Even having a 'on the sly' word with a friendly lecturer, see if they'd be willing to let you park it 'round the back' somewhere. There's always a little bit of yard or somewhere like where the Biffa bins are kept, etc.. at Unis... Then sort out some means of getting it towed. If it's an Auto you're not supposed to tow without the 'bopx oil being pumped round - however, a short run should be 'ok' - guessing you've got a Manual, in which case no such worry.
I'd go with cam and crank sensor, yes. Patterns either don't work right away or just go pop prematurely. So it's either stump up big money on a genuine Vx one, or try and get/borrow a known good 2nd hand one.
Best of luck, keep us posted :y
-
Cam sensor code reported........popping and banging......muppet using easy start (shows the low competence level of whoever came out).......just double check the cambelt and cam timing.
-
Cam sensor code reported........popping and banging......muppet using easy start (shows the low competence level of whoever came out).......just double check the cambelt and cam timing.
I did raise an eyebrow over that... it's a bit like someone saying their arm hurts like hell, they think they've broke it, and a doctor giving them morphine, and told to carry on as normal...
-
Cam sensor code reported........popping and banging......muppet using easy start (shows the low competence level of whoever came out).......just double check the cambelt and cam timing.
I did raise an eyebrow over that... it's a bit like someone saying their arm hurts like hell, they think they've broke it, and a doctor breaking their arm anyway, giving them morphine, and told "hmm, yes, I think you might be right"...
Fixed for you. :y
-
Cam sensor code reported........popping and banging......muppet using easy start (shows the low competence level of whoever came out).......just double check the cambelt and cam timing.
I did raise an eyebrow over that... it's a bit like someone saying their arm hurts like hell, they think they've broke it, and a doctor breaking their arm anyway, giving them morphine, and told "hmm, yes, I think you might be right"...
:D :D :D
Fixed for you. :y
-
+1 for the Cam Sensor.
-
GM Cam sensor ordered for next day delivery tomorrow just need a cheap garage/mobile mechanic around York to do it.
Still highly suspicious that it is at fault and it shouldn't realistically prevent starting.
If it turns out to be crank then I'm in big trouble.
What if the timing has jumped? How would I check this?
-
Reply #1, first question. :y
-
Changing the cam sensor involves removing the cam belt cover, so you can check the timing then. But if it has jumped more than 2 teeth it would clatter horribly when cranking, as the valves and the pistons meet. But as you did not report clattering, timing has not jumped.
-
Hopefully it should be okay as there was no clattering!
By the way, due to it not starting whatsoever not even for a small amount of time, am I probably right in presuming that both are dead? So does that mean that if the crank sensor is faulty also? So does that mean that if cam sensor is replaced, that it should at least start for a little while/ limp mode or give me a code for crank?
-
As I understand, yes it should eventually start, so you should at least then be able to move it away from the traffic wardens :y
It may or may not give a crank code, but symptom would be extensive cranking to start rather than a flick of the key...
-
York is notorious for parking, I hate it, got a ticket when i was 5 mins late last year. And Wetherby in the Leeds post code is no better, I moved as was sick of getting them there.
I replaced my cam sensor, after it failing to start a few times, best advice from these nice chaps here :y
-
It would be helpful, as posed in post #1, to know if the crank sensor fitted 6 months ago was GM OE, as while it is not impossible for such to fail so soon, it makes it a less likely culprit. :-\ :y
-
I've had some problems with cam sensor on 4 pot myself.
The easy way (for me) to check if it is the cam sensor, is to remove the spark plug and touch any screw on the top of the engine head, so that you close the electric loop. Second person have to crank the engine (since there will be fuel in piston, please be careful), if there is a spark on the plug it means that the problem is with fuel (ex. fuel pump, fuse etc.) or timing (little possibility).
NOTE: do not touch the engine during test nor the spark plug. Hold the HV cable not the plug.
If there is no spark on plugs (check all 4 of them) than the most possible is the Crankshaft sensor. Of course it might be as well faulty DIS pack or wiring, but as I said on 4 pots the sensor is most possible.
If there will be spark on some plugs, the most possible is DIS pack or wiring from ECU to DIS or HV cables.
Furthermore, I know it is quite hard to change the Crankshaft sensor due to the AC compressor and I know that some change the sensor (I did it :) ) without removing the AC compressor, it is doable but the problem is the screw holding the sensor to the block, if some one did not tighten it, it might screw itself out and change the readings of the sensor.
Check it :)
-
Thank you for your replies and I will take them into consideration
Update: got a genuine GM cam sensor with hologram from autovaux for £39! (Very cheap) Got it in the post today and the guy I telephoned beforehand said that it would come with a wiring harness but it hasn't and its a rounded type as well and I have a square connector >:( >:( so I'm basically stuck until I get a rounded plug wiring.
-
Also I'm not sure if the crank sensor is genuine but if memory serves it cost a lot so it probably was. The AA patrol who connected his computer up said that the crank sensor was sending a signal so I'm not sure if it is the culprit.
Hopefully when I get the rounded plug at least one sensor will be working meaning I can start it hopefully and get it moving.
-
Thank you for your replies and I will take them into consideration
Update: got a genuine GM cam sensor with hologram from autovaux for £39! (Very cheap) Got it in the post today and the guy I telephoned beforehand said that it would come with a wiring harness but it hasn't and its a rounded type as well and I have a square connector >:( >:( so I'm basically stuck until I get a rounded plug wiring.
Any chance of a picture :-\ :-\
-
Thank you for your replies and I will take them into consideration
Update: got a genuine GM cam sensor with hologram from autovaux for £39! (Very cheap) Got it in the post today and the guy I telephoned beforehand said that it would come with a wiring harness but it hasn't and its a rounded type as well and I have a square connector >:( >:( so I'm basically stuck until I get a rounded plug wiring.
Any chance of a picture :-\ :-\
(http://s22.postimg.org/51im8tvm9/20141118_121434.jpg)
-
That is cheap :)
hopefully will sort your problem out :y
I paid £60 for mine not 2 months ago from vauxhall :-\
-
That is cheap :)
hopefully will sort your problem out :y
I paid £60 for mine not 2 months ago from vauxhall :-\
No wiring though so not much I can do with it unfortunately and if autovaux don't have any then it looks like its going to be a job and a half to get hold of one :(((
-
There web site says it is a modified version of another part number. :-\
But it does look like a proper GM part. :-\
http://www.autovaux.co.uk/product/24445139-sensor-camshaft-6238187-vauxhall-opel.aspx
-
There web site says it is a modified version of another part number. :-\
But it does look like a proper GM part. :-\
http://www.autovaux.co.uk/product/24445139-sensor-camshaft-6238187-vauxhall-opel.aspx
I think the guy who sold it gave me a GM one over the phone but I paid for the second option, the £33 excl vat siemens which totals to £39. I think I got lucky.
-
That is cheap :)
hopefully will sort your problem out :y
I paid £60 for mine not 2 months ago from vauxhall :-\
No wiring though so not much I can do with it unfortunately and if autovaux don't have any then it looks like its going to be a job and a half to get hold of one :(((
ask one of the breakers on here if they have the right connector :)
-
I've had some problems with cam sensor on 4 pot myself.
The easy way (for me) to check if it is the cam sensor, is to remove the spark plug and touch any screw on the top of the engine head, so that you close the electric loop. Second person have to crank the engine (since there will be fuel in piston, please be careful), if there is a spark on the plug it means that the problem is with fuel (ex. fuel pump, fuse etc.) or timing (little possibility).
NOTE: do not touch the engine during test nor the spark plug. Hold the HV cable not the plug.
If there is no spark on plugs (check all 4 of them) than the most possible is the Crankshaft sensor. Of course it might be as well faulty DIS pack or wiring, but as I said on 4 pots the sensor is most possible.
If there will be spark on some plugs, the most possible is DIS pack or wiring from ECU to DIS or HV cables.
Furthermore, I know it is quite hard to change the Crankshaft sensor due to the AC compressor and I know that some change the sensor (I did it :) ) without removing the AC compressor, it is doable but the problem is the screw holding the sensor to the block, if some one did not tighten it, it might screw itself out and change the readings of the sensor.
Check it :)
Very good point, Pele. Crankshaft sensor is tricky to change. Haynes says remove n/s engine mounting; that is how I have always done it. Phil Rich says it can be done without removing the engine mounting. I have tried, and got as far as putting back the mounting screw, then failed, so had to remove the engine mounting just to put back the screw. If a garage did the job, they may well have got that far, pushed the sensor in, and left the screw out, or left it in the sensor hole but not engaged in the thread in the block. Do check it. You can see it if you remove the dip stick tube.
-
Here is a pic of the crank sensor and its locating bolt, with the dip stick tube removed. The large hexagon in the centre is the head of a large bolt sitting in the dip stick tube hole, to stop anything else falling in.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/46jlixseo0hoc5b/crankSENSOR2.2%2040%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/46jlixseo0hoc5b/crankSENSOR2.2%2040%25.jpg?dl=0)
-
Update:
Wiring harness came today and got a mobile mechanic to fix the cam sensor, fault code gone but would not fire. Checked compression and was OK, checked cambelt and it had not jumped. Tight and in good condition. Crank sensor not at fault as it was giving a reading of 200 rpm or something.
As a last ditch attempt put easystart in, no effect.
But then somehow, he put battery boosters in and fiddled with the leads and it jumped into life. One of the leads is too big to fit or loose and had red sparks flying out of it. Suspect lead/coil pack at fault.
Its running on 3 and misfiring badly but at least its running! Car moved to pay and display car park and £105 out of pocket :(
-
Stop putting easy start in it ::)
Unless you have a new engine coming for Christmas :-\
-
Stop putting easy start in it ::)
Unless you have a new engine coming for Christmas :-\
It was very cold and I think he ran out of patience. We tried everything else as well. Would the lead problem prevent the engine from starting because I highly doubt it :(
By the way this engine never properly dies and hasn't done so for the two years I've had it even though its been ragged and shagged its a miracle one.