Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  


Please check the Forum Guidelines at the top of the Newbie section

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Enceladus

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 72
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 04 May 2024, 02:28:38 »

General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 03 May 2024, 17:26:26 »

Omega General Help / Re: About TC lock-up
« on: 01 May 2024, 20:01:45 »
From memory, the Omega only did lock-up in 3rd and 4th.
Omega B & B2 AR25/AR35 the lockup is in 3rd and fourth. Carlton and Senator B it's only 4th.

The lockup operating (or not) on an autobox is much more apparent if the cruise control is engaged.

Or accelerate to 60-70Mph on an open level(ish) Motorway and hold the the throttle pedal constant and observe the rev counter. You'll see the revs drop to about 2200-2300 when the lock engages. If the sport mode is engaged then the transmission will take longer to engage the lockup.

General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 28 April 2024, 14:53:26 »

Omega General Help / Re: Brakes
« on: 19 April 2024, 13:26:10 »
Have you checked that the slider pins on the front calipers are free to move? From your description it might be that one side is seized. If so, buff the pins and rubber boots and re-grease. Or replace with new pins and rubber boots. And clean the bores.

The rear caliper will be ATE, 42mm pistons for vented rear discs and 40mm for solid rear discs.
The fronts with 296mm discs are TRW which is now a subsidiary of ZF. Seem to have been manufactured by Lucas Girling under license. Piston 57mm.

General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 06 April 2024, 15:11:29 »

General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 21 March 2024, 17:35:07 »
(Man) Friday

Omega General Help / Re: Timing belt kit question
« on: 01 March 2024, 17:19:25 »
To lock the GM 1.8/2.0/2.2 16V cams, only one locking key is used. Kent Moore KM-853 or equivalent. The Sealey kits and imitations are plastic in lieu of aluminium alloy and also include KM-852 which is not for your engine.

The tensioner adjustment design on the Gates kits is slightly different to the original GM. This means that the initial set up adjustment is slightly different to the Haynes manual and the TIS. So make sure to follow the Gates instructions. Or use a Contitech kit.

General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 19 February 2024, 09:54:34 »

Omega General Help / Re: What code reader do i need?
« on: 04 February 2024, 11:59:34 »
Is the spanner light flashing/blinking?
Disconnect the battery. Leave it for 15mins or longer. Then reconnect the battery. See does the ECU reset and behave.

You haven't responded to DG's question above. "Have you taken the keys apart or done any work on the steering column?"

Omega General Help / Re: What code reader do i need?
« on: 04 February 2024, 02:36:16 »
What is the immobiliser code reported by your Carly code reader?
If the cam sensor is faulty then it may well trigger and set a phantom fault code.

As I understand your posts.
28th Jan = engine started and ran, but spanner light remained on, codes P0340 cam sensor and P0180 phantom code present.
29th Jan = engine starts but cuts out after 2secs, the spanner light is still on? Is/was P0340 still present?
3rd Feb = fault codes cleared and now get code Pnnnn?, is the spanner light still on?
Alos key buttons don't work / have never worked.

Given that the engine ran on the 28th then the immobiliser and the key transponder must have been working on the 28th.  Did you do anything else to the ECU other than reset the fault code?  I guess not. The transponders programmed into the ECU are not lost if you remove the battery even for an extended period, so they should still work.

However if you pumped old stale fuel it might still be that the fuel pump is gummed up or weak.

If the keys are original then the key fob bit might need to have the battery holder re-soldered to the circuit board. And/or new switches soldered to the circuit boards or it might be that the fobs work but need re-syncing to the central locking. The latter procedure is in the owners manual.

Omega General Help / Re: What code reader do i need?
« on: 30 January 2024, 15:35:12 »
Or the pump might be gummed up with old fuel.

Omega General Help / Re: What code reader do i need?
« on: 30 January 2024, 15:19:38 »
AIUI it became illegal on Jan 1st 2001 to sell a petrol car in Europe that wasn't OBDii compliant. 2004 for a diesel. Opel would have been making the petrol and maybe also the diesels from at least through 2000, since some completed cars could sit in the supply chain for months before they were sold and registered.

I've never seen a Carly diag tool. However if it's OBDii then it probably does work on a 2.2 petrol Omega. Certainly all Z22XE Omegas should work and maybe earlier Y22XE as well.

Have you actually tried the Carly on the car? You might not be able to get all the functionality of a Tech-2. However it should easily reset the P0340 and maybe explain/reset the mystery P0180 which doesn't seem to be used on an Omega. That P0340 code comes on permanently if it's repeatedly triggered more than a pre-set threshold value. So reset and see does it appear again. 

Three years off the road and the fuel is going to be well bad. Diluting it with fresh petrol might well help, if you can flush it through to the front. Hindsight I know, but it might have been better to drain or pump out the tank before putting in the 17L of fresh.

If it stopped sparking then I'm pretty sure you'd see another error code. I suppose you could remove the ignition module and check the spark plug wells for oil and/or water. That's a 10 minute job and doesn't cost anything. You could even check the plugs.

It's to do with meeting emissions standards. Most cars of the period will have similar arrangements.

One of the small diameter pipes connects the purge valve, for the carbon cannister that traps fuel vapour from the tank, to before the throttle body butterfly valves. That reduces unburnt hydrocarbons.
The other one connects the small spigot on the breather box at the back of the engine to before the throttle butterfly valves. That's burning oil vapour so also reduces HCs. Probably under engine conditions where the two bigger pipes on the Y aren't effective.

The GM part number for the O-ring is 90411826. I believe they are ID10mm x 2mm = OD14mm. Autodoc suggests the aftermarket versions are Polyacrylate (ACM).

That O-ring, I suspect, is the same as used on the later 4 pots and these were still current post the Omega, so there are more of those engines still around. Hence the O-rings might still be available/orderable from an Opel dealer.

The problem is that the O-rings and the seals eventually go hard and squished. And then don't seal anymore. Blocked breathers then cause oil leaks. It's hit and miss as to how long third party seals and O-rings will last. I'd use a Victor Reinz kit in preference to your Topran.

The so called Tophat seal 90467543 for the breather bridge to plenum is no longer available. Clean very carefully and reuse.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 72

Page created in 0.016 seconds with 19 queries.