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General Car Chat / Re: Clean Bill Of Health
« on: 13 November 2020, 19:09:51 »
Well done Andrew good news that , theres been a few up for test recently on here , mostly with an excellent result.
Please play nicely. No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....
That'll cost you a curryI've just seen your message.
Will phone you soon
Nick is coming to the rescue again OOF at its best
I've just seen your message.
Will phone you soon
I've just seen your message.
Will phone you soon
I use:
a basic wheel bearing set for FWD cars to remove and fit the bearing
a slightly modified(I filed one of the slots to fit) Mini flywheel puller to remove the drive flange. A generic 2 or 3 leg puller will work
A cobbled together, on the car, out of scrap hub extractor, meet Mr Ugly:
that's a short length of 70mm bore tube, some lugs hacked out of 8mm steel and welded on, a steel disc with an M16 nut welded in the centre, M16 bolt and an aluminium block as a pusher. It bolts on the back of the hub carrier using the 2 of the handbrake backing plate bolts, and winds the hub out of the bearing. No measuring, just hacked to 'fit' with an angle grinder and welder. I made this because trying packers in the front and the whelbolts was starting to do damage, and I've buggered up too many threads hammering on them.
Once the hub is removed, you'll have to remove the outer bearing race from it; a slot cut with the grinder and a whack with a chisel does that. It can also be done with a puller but is way more work.
Some spacers are needed to pull the hub through the new bearing, I have two old races for this; the first one I cut off, and a bored out one.
If you get anywhere near Chatham, I'll happily lend you all this stuff.
Edit:
you will need some robust circlip pliers, getting the old one out is the worst bit of the job. Every bearing I've done came with a new circlip and lock washer, you will NEED the circlip!
The backing plate bolts are spline drive for some reason(bloody Germans again), and need an appropriate bit.
What exactly is written on the fail sheet?
I would suggest taking it to a different, preferably not a chain, garage for a retest before doing anything else...
Have you allowed for the difference in rolling radius between tyre brands, and as the tyre wears in use?