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Messages - RolandL

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46
Omega General Help / Re: Exhaust and seat Questions
« on: 18 February 2014, 11:38:06 »
Nuts/Bolts and a smear of exhaust paste :y


Does the switch illuminate when you turn it on? If yes, fuse ok but seat element toast. Not uncommon, especially with leather seats :-\

Excellent

Yes switch illuminates, are the elements easily obtained?

47
Omega General Help / Exhaust and seat Questions
« on: 18 February 2014, 10:59:13 »
Greetings, In need of a bit of guidance.

Firstly I need to change the exhaust. I can get hold of a system including mounting kit, however I am unsure of what type of gasket is needed, (if any) where it connects to the Cats.  Does it need a conical wire mesh one (like my Astra) or is it a ball and cup type (interference fit) ? Picture of system only shows bolts for connection.  Need to know before I take it off so I have all parts  ;)

My second question is about the passenger seat. Seat heater is not getting hot.  Have checked  seat wiring/connectors, nothing obvious. Do they run off the same fuse as drivers side is ok.

Many thanks

48
Omega General Help / Re: Repair panels
« on: 13 January 2014, 11:10:34 »
Thanks Rob,

you are a star  :y

49
Omega General Help / Repair panels
« on: 13 January 2014, 10:47:58 »
Not sure if correct place (Admin please feel free to move if not).

I have unsightly rust areas on my car.  Both rear arches and bottom of rear n/s door.  Was wondering if anyone can recommend a place where I can get some repair panels.

Roland
 

50
Omega General Help / Re: Front caliper issue
« on: 07 September 2013, 19:55:53 »
Thanks for the input.  Will have another look at it tomorrow, got a neighbour who has some easy outs.  :y

cheers

51
Omega General Help / Re: Front caliper issue
« on: 07 September 2013, 17:59:45 »
Thanks for the advice guys.

  If I manage to get the remnents out, what type/size of bleed nipple will i need as a replacement. Have been looking on ebay and there are a multitude of different thread sizes etc.

52
Omega General Help / Front caliper issue
« on: 07 September 2013, 16:51:12 »
Hi Guys,

I'm in serious need of some expert advice.  Changed a rear break pipe today, cut out old and put in new piece, pleased with my work.  Started to bleed system. Did rear nearside as per haynes then moved to front offside.  Bleed nipple sheared off  >:(  (how could I have been so stupid :-[ ), now have a big problem.  How do I get the remnents out of hole? or do I?  options are.

1:  Could drill out but don't know how far to go and what thread size is.
2:  Buy replacement one off Ebay.
3:  Buy new.

Interestingly when I moved car back to parking spot there was no sign of fluid on the caliper. I'm guessing that is because the bleed nipple is still in the down position.  Can't see leaving it as is, as an option, as need to bleed entire system, and, wouldn't want it to "let go " whilst on the road.

Any advice would be gratefully recieved.




53
Omega General Help / Re: Rear brake pipes
« on: 01 September 2013, 12:47:11 »

I understand that standard fit brake pipes are tough, explains why mine have lasted 13 years of road crap. So you are going to need something good to cut through the pipe.

The pipes don't appear to be copper, look like stainless?  Should be interesting putting a flare on the cut end. I'm hoping that a pipe cutter will be man enough for the cutting job.

  The leak I have is right on the final bend where it meets the flexihose at the back, so it will be one bolt and a cut to get it off.  As for fluid loss I think a complete refill is in order.  My other half nursed the car back from Grimsby (50mls) with minimal brakes (really proud of her :) ) so there is not a lot left in the system  ;D

54
Omega General Help / Re: Rear brake pipes
« on: 01 September 2013, 12:11:34 »
Hi Tunnie,

Doh! Why didn't I think of that!  would make for an easier/quicker job.  Sometimes you need someone to point out the obvious  ;D

All I need to do now is get the parts  :y


Thanks

55
Omega General Help / Rear brake pipes
« on: 01 September 2013, 11:06:59 »
Good morning,

have a leak on one of my rear brake pipes.  It looks like a long one, from front to back, that ends at the flexi hose. Does anyone have a diagram of the brake lines  as I am having difficulty in seeing the route it takes (it looks like part of the exhaust and heat shield needs to come off to get to it  :( )

I can find the caliper brake line and flexi hose on the net but not a long one.  Are they available or would it have to be made?

cheers

Roland

56
Omega General Help / Re: fitting new thrmostat
« on: 04 January 2012, 23:17:06 »
Thanks for the info guys

57
Omega General Help / fitting new thrmostat
« on: 04 January 2012, 11:07:46 »
Good morning,

can someone supply me with the part number for the thermostat link pipe seal/s, for a 2.5 V6. Can't see them listed in the "how to"


Many thanks

Roland

58
Maintenance Guides / How2 Convert your oil filter
« on: 27 February 2008, 19:57:12 »
How2 to convert your old metal element oil filter, to a new spin on type.

Why would you want/need to do this?

The numpties at the garage that did the last service used an impact wrench to put it on, and you break it trying to get it off.  >:(

You can't get the top off at all and you resort to cutting it off!   >:(

(see above)

And VX want to charge you nearly £200 for a new housing!   >:(





This is the metal housing the element filter sits in. The housing is attatched to the block via a hollow bolt inside, and should be torqued up at 45Nm. The cap should be torqued up at 15Nm.


So you find yourself in a pickle, because some part of the housing is damaged, and being frugal you don't wish to part with a shed load of cash, what do you do?





firstly you arm yourself with the above parts.

1x Standard spin on Omega filter
1x Connector, oil  PN  90412159 (£12.15 + vat 07/2010)
1X Bottle Permanant studlock


Proceed to remove the damaged part, using you favourite method, cap takes a 24mm socket and the bolt inside takes either a 27mm socket or a 12mm hex drive to get the centre nut out of the base of the canister. (best have your favourite oily rag handy  :y )

Once removed, thoroughly clean the area, including the threads in the block.

Apply some studlock to the threads in the block, grasp your connector firmly  ;)  (doesn't matter which end) and apply some studlock to that as well





Insert conector into block






Now, put some oil in the filter, and some round the rubber seal and spin on your new filter, no nut on the end of these, but you've done enough of these to know when its seated properly  ;)

Now pat youself on the back for a job well done   :y

  :y  Next time you do an oil change, you will be able to get your filter off no problem


 :y :y :y

59
Maintenance Guides / How to replace prefacelift Aircon condenser
« on: 12 August 2007, 22:03:48 »
How to change the V6, aircon condenser.

Tools/items needed.

Decent socket set
Torx bits both male and female.
Coolant
Your favourite clip compressing tool for all the pipes.
OEM condenser with dryer and next day delivery (part number 16-6554) is around £139 (see Aircon link in parts wanted section of forum, top).

And patience  :)

Remove plastic cover from above radiator, (Two outer ones have twist clips, middle one requires Torx bit) as per first picture.



What you are now looking at are the radiator and the condenser, the condenser sits behind the radiator.


Remove the set of trumpets; it is held in place by two nuts, one just below the air box and the other near the front middle. Disconnect all the sensor clips, air box and big pipes that go into plenum. Carefully remove the assembly, gentle pressure will release the pin that sits in the grommet at the bottom left of unit.

I removed the trumpets so I could get a better view of the radiator and all its connections.




You now need to disconnect all the radiator pipes and the sensor clips. On the left of the radiator as you look at it you will see two metal banjo unions, follow these down to two rubber pipes, these contain automatic transmission fluid (atf cooler in rad). Disconnect these at the rubber pipes and plug them with suitable bolts, hardly any fluid came out when I did it. Don’t forget to disconnect the secondary air pump pipe, it’s the one that connects to that round black thing that sits on the radiator (left connection) on the right of the radiator are the sensor clips, disconnect these. There is one that is difficult to get to; I removed it as the radiator was lifted out. Finally remove the two screws that hold the condenser to the radiator, and the clips that hold the radiator in position (as per pic), lift out radiator.




Banjo union




Removal of radiator clips




Now you have complete access to the old condenser (see below).





 On the right of the condenser is the connection to the aircon system, remove using female Torx bit, retrieve seals if re-usable, if not replace.  Two fans sit behind the condenser, the dryer sits behind the right-hand side one. The fans interlock in the middle, each is held in by a plastic peg pushed into a grommet. Gently push the fans forward to release them.  This will now give you room to manoeuvre the dryer past the fan and get the whole assembly out of the car.




Re-fitting, as Haynes will tell you is the reverse of removal. All you need to do then is get it re-gassed which will cost between £40-£60.



 It took me 1hr and 40mins from start to finish. I was surprised how straight forward it all was, everything came out as it should and I had no bits left over at the end.


Once everything is back together, give yourself a pat on the back for a job well done   :y  :y  :y

60
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Dash bulbs
« on: 02 December 2009, 22:13:10 »
Aha! so they are capless, and I need four, thought I would need more.

thanks guys   :y

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