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[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

At least one of my diff mounts has rubber separation and looks in poor shape. Where do we source them from please and how much for ?
Nothing on ebay, so Im guessing one of the specialist suppliers or give my working kidney to VX dealer ?

Also a couple of the retaining bolts for them are somewhat chewed. I reckon someone has been at them with a windy gun at some point.
Bit of an unusual looking bolt and I dont seem to have any spares. Anyone got a couple to exchange for some beer tokens please ?

[Doctor Gollum]

Refurbish them one at a time...

I used this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Fast-Cast-Polyurethane-Liquid-Plastic-Casting-Resin-500g-Kit-/273971820419

Nick W made a jig for casting them. He may also suggest alternative materials as mine were solid (not that I minded as it stopped the rear end from wobbling around) 

[Nick W]

They've been unavailable for ages.


You have to do rebuild them yourself with a jig and some polyurethane:









and some polyurethane:





That was the one I needed for my car but the jig was intended to do a pair at a time, and they look a lot better with some black pigment and a squirt of paint:







I used the same material as in DG's post.


The jig is excessive for one offs; you could make some with plastic card, faced board and hot glue, there's all sorts of ways of holding the bits together for 20 minutes while the poly goes off.


I use Vaseline as the mould release

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Thanks chaps. Looks like thats my next project then. 

[Nick W]

I do them for £50 a pair, posted back to you. Exchange obviously, but I do have a knackered pair to start with

[VXL V6]

I do them for £50 a pair, posted back to you. Exchange obviously, but I do have a knackered pair to start with

Might be taking you up on that deal next year 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

I will have a go at them myself first Nick.Im actually looking foward to it. However if it all goes Pete Tong, I will be in touch. 

[Doctor Gollum]

I used candle wax in the horizontal bolt cavities and card for the faces.

Actually worked better than it sounds, although Nicks jig obviously is much more efficient 

Plywood would work well too...

[STEMO]

I find it easier not to have a rear diff. 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Am I likely to need close to 500g ? 250g can be had for £5.89. Its green but who cares ? 

[Doctor Gollum]

I can't remember if 250 was quite enough as it's single mix/use... Better to have to much than only managing 1.5 mounts if it oozes

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Good point, well presented. 

[Nick W]

Am I likely to need close to 500g ? 250g can be had for £5.89. Its green but who cares ? 

250g of the main part should be enough, I'm pretty sure that 500g is just enough to do two pairs. One thing to consider is that they're not kidding about the six month shelf life, so don't expect to be able to use any left over for long.


As for colour, they're so far under the car that you can't see them without deliberately looking, but black always looks better and more 'standard'


Having some scales that are accurate to at least a gram means you can mix both parts accurately which is important with 2-pack materials. Weigh out both parts separately before mixing them if you haven't done this sort of work before

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Thanks for the advice. I believe swmbo has such a set of scales in the kitchen which I shall "borrow". 

[b4ndit]

Had a couple of pairs off Nick W top notch and fit perfect

[Tick Tock]

On one of my cars, they're starting to peel and disintegrate, so it's also something I've been looking at for a while.

I'm guessing the subframe needs to come forward to be able to remove / fit them? With the fuel tank quite hard up against the back of them, there's little in the way of clearance.... or am I just missing something?

[Doctor Gollum]

You're missing something 

Back car onto ramps.
Jack upto diff but DO NOT lift it.
Undo the two bolts that hold the mount to the chassis crossmember.
If the cage falls off, the mount has failed.
Lower jack.
Undo single bolt to subframe.

If you can do one side at a time incase the subframe moves any.
Remove.

[Nick W]

On one of my cars, they're starting to peel and disintegrate, so it's also something I've been looking at for a while.

I'm guessing the subframe needs to come forward to be able to remove / fit them? With the fuel tank quite hard up against the back of them, there's little in the way of clearance.... or am I just missing something?

car on axle stands, jack under the diff(not necessary, but why take chances), undo the 2 bolts that hold each 'horseshoe' to the car, and the single bolt that attaches the aluminium centre to the diff. The mount should come off in one  piece. If you do one at a time, the diff won't move enough to prevent you from just bolting a good mount in place.


Access isn't an issue, even on an estate with a towbar.


To go back to the original post, there's nothing special about any of the three bolts. Which if I remember right are two short M10s, and one longer M8. But that could me M8 and 6

[Doctor Gollum]

Jack helps support the diff, especially when refitting

[Nick W]

I do them for £50 a pair, posted back to you. Exchange obviously, but I do have a knackered pair to start with

That knackered pair looked like this:





the horsehoes were really crusty, and the aluminium centres very crumbly. They must have been like that for some time on the car.


extensive use of a hacksaw, scraper, wire brush in the grinder, 40grit emery and about 45minutes per part makes them look a bit better:





and the horseshoe with most of the bits I removed





In the jig ready for when I get some polyurethane: