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The last time my Omega was out of the garage[for a short drive around the yard in front of the lock up]a couple of years ago the n/s front brake "grabbed" before the o/s,admittedly the yard surface is hard packed dirt with stones/grit on top.So the brakes obviously need work,not to mention that at present the brake pedal hits the floor now without the brakes working! I fitted a new master cylinder some time ago and some time before that a new n/s rear caliper[the o/s rear was free].My thinking now is to do a rebuild on the o/s rear and both fronts as new front calipers seem to be above £100 each[which is more than twice the price of front calipers for my V70 . The question is as I can't recall what master cylinder/rear caliper I bought how do I tell which brake system my car has? I've seen used front calipers[not that I'm thinking of buying them]which says they're for a Lucas system while new calipers or rebuild kits say they're for either Girling or ATE systems,so potentially three systems to choose from

'n' roll.

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Changing the oil+filter is interesting,  if car isn't high enough you can't drop undertray flap down enough,  .....

you need a Pela oil-sucker-outerer

My oil-sucker-outerer can't be pushed down far enough to suck the oil from my classic and highly desirable Vauxhall.

The tube is long enough but there is an obstruction of some kind.

Strange  So how does the dip stick reach the oil if there's an obstruction ?? 

Exactly my thoughts.......The dipstick is extremely skinny for the last 5 or 6 inches and the tube simply can't be pushed in far enough.

Just give a good hard shove, the desirable Signum will think it's having a colonoscopy. 

Primary height setting on those is the springs, as the car ages the springs weaken, the suspension sags a bit, the static position of the wishbone sits a little higher and you get a bit more negative camber.

Just changing the shocks will yield poor results, springs are the primary 

I suspect the standard Golf shocks ae ZF (so Sachs/Boge) and the WSS setup would be Monroe

How does  £125 to do all that sound, which would include a rough and ready alignment to make the car at least drivable.

Hi Nick, I've sent you a message if you are still able to help with this?

Cheers 

Get yer coat. 

I mean lifespan, honest.

Get yer coat. 

I did quite a bit of research last night. No adjustment on stock suspension for camber but you might get a tiny amount from the holes where top of strut mounts.

Could be some damaged suspension component but most likely a bent part of shock absorber. I watched an excellent how to video on changing front shocks. Definitely beyond my current capabilities. I was really impressed by their attention to detail. Cleaning bolt and nut heads before undoing and applying spray copper grease afterwards. Never seen that product but I still have my tub and tube from probably the seventies . I wish every mechanic paid that much attention to detail. Obviously everyone on here does!

In the summer , I will cast around for a garage to do the job. In the meantime I will do some research on which shocks to use. I won’t go OEM. Might go Bilstein B4 but don’t want a lumpy ride. What is on now are original fitment on 125k miles so are perhaps giving a lumpy ride ie jarring when you go over a sleeping policeman. I guess any would be an improvement …… Any recommendations?

OEM are almost certainly Bilstien on that...
Same struts as the Leon/Altea/Octavia.

Samantha Davis - wife of Warwick. Only 53. 

That is quite short.

....
Changing the oil+filter is interesting,  if car isn't high enough you can't drop undertray flap down enough,  .....

you need a Pela oil-sucker-outerer

My oil-sucker-outerer can't be pushed down far enough to suck the oil from my classic and highly desirable Vauxhall.

The tube is long enough but there is an obstruction of some kind.

Strange  So how does the dip stick reach the oil if there's an obstruction ?? 

Exactly my thoughts.......The dipstick is extremely skinny for the last 5 or 6 inches and the tube simply can't be pushed in far enough.