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Author Topic: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed  (Read 1127 times)

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Eyal2002

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #15 on: 21 September 2021, 18:08:55 »

Thanks for all tips, I think I start from rear discs as they are badly corroded and should be changed anyway due to MOT in Nov. -21. My prop shaft was off some years ago due to change of rear crank seal. I believe it is correctly fitted but could you explain how it should be; three bolts in gear and diff. If one of the three in diff side point down should one of the three point down also in hear side or what this fig is showing to me. Explanation needed please.

OK, typed here is same for diff and gear sides, but focus on diff:
Connect donut to diff, and as the photo shows bolts go into donut and diff entering towards rear of car (so nuts come from back). As you hold the rubber donut, identify the three 2-hole pairs (thicker area for each), and have one pair point towards the floor/road. Put a bolt through the LEFT hole and into the diff, secure loosly for now with a nut. I assume the car is rear jacked or in a lift. Rotate the rear wheels and again do the  LEFT hole to diff for the other two 2-hole pairs. As you look at the donut, prop bolts always go to the RIGHT hole when the thick donut area point downwards. Not that with the prop to donut mating the bolts enter behind the donut so the nuts in the prop connection are holding the prop (study the photo closely).

I installed my prop on and off many times, always with the car lifted (not jacks). This way gear was in Neutral plus the rear would spin by hand (easier than try to rotate the diff by hand). Also, it was impossible to insert the donut-to-prop bolts from the rear unless you find that sweet spot where it is possible, I would say  when you face the donut, it is in its 4 o'clock position IIRC. To tighten I use a spanner to holt bolt/nut behind the donut and in front I used 1/2" air impact wrench with 2 long extensions to get a down angle if exhaust is intact (and often a friend on the spanner).
Lastly, try use paint or white correction fluid to mark 3 lines on one of the prop to donut mating and two lines for diff to donut, for future reference.

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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #16 on: 22 September 2021, 08:08:46 »

Thanks for all tips, I think I start from rear discs as they are badly corroded and should be changed anyway due to MOT in Nov. -21. My prop shaft was off some years ago due to change of rear crank seal. I believe it is correctly fitted but could you explain how it should be; three bolts in gear and diff. If one of the three in diff side point down should one of the three point down also in hear side or what this fig is showing to me. Explanation needed please.
In summary:

Each face of the donuts has three raised portions.

The bolts are inserted from the high side.

The low side sits against the flange (gearbox/diff/prop shaft).

The nut is always fitted to the rear of the flange, and not the donut.
Not sure you could actually fit the shaft if it was assembled with the flange against the high side :-\

Anyhoo, the original problem cannot be prop shaft related as it is apparent at road speeds not engine speeds...  ::)

So... In no particular order:

1. Tyres: correctly fitted and balanced?
2. Wheels: true and free from buckles?
3. Discs: True and actually round?* Not warped?
4. Hubs: faces clean? Bearings sound?
5. Drive shafts: play in the CVs?

*there's a reason genuine discs are more expensive... They tend to actually machine them with a degree of accuracy compared to 15 Amazon specials :D
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sjc

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #17 on: 22 September 2021, 14:49:03 »

Thanks for all tips, I think I start from rear discs as they are badly corroded and should be changed anyway due to MOT in Nov. -21. My prop shaft was off some years ago due to change of rear crank seal. I believe it is correctly fitted but could you explain how it should be; three bolts in gear and diff. If one of the three in diff side point down should one of the three point down also in hear side or what this fig is showing to me. Explanation needed please.
In summary:

Each face of the donuts has three raised portions.

The bolts are inserted from the high side.

The low side sits against the flange (gearbox/diff/prop shaft).

The nut is always fitted to the rear of the flange, and not the donut.
Not sure you could actually fit the shaft if it was assembled with the flange against the high side :-\

Anyhoo, the original problem cannot be prop shaft related as it is apparent at road speeds not engine speeds...  ::)

So... In no particular order:

1. Tyres: correctly fitted and balanced?
2. Wheels: true and free from buckles?
3. Discs: True and actually round?* Not warped?
4. Hubs: faces clean? Bearings sound?
5. Drive shafts: play in the CVs?

*there's a reason genuine discs are more expensive... They tend to actually machine them with a degree of accuracy compared to 15 Amazon specials :D

My money's on this, it is perfectly possible to balance a buckled wheel but it will shake the car to pieces on the road.  Had this with more than one pre-facelift MV6 (made of toffee) wheels.
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polilara

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #18 on: 22 September 2021, 16:38:42 »

Thanks for all tips, I think I start from rear discs as they are badly corroded and should be changed anyway due to MOT in Nov. -21. My prop shaft was off some years ago due to change of rear crank seal. I believe it is correctly fitted but could you explain how it should be; three bolts in gear and diff. If one of the three in diff side point down should one of the three point down also in hear side or what this fig is showing to me. Explanation needed please.
In summary:

Each face of the donuts has three raised portions.

The bolts are inserted from the high side.

The low side sits against the flange (gearbox/diff/prop shaft).

The nut is always fitted to the rear of the flange, and not the donut.
Not sure you could actually fit the shaft if it was assembled with the flange against the high side :-\

Anyhoo, the original problem cannot be prop shaft related as it is apparent at road speeds not engine speeds...  ::)

So... In no particular order:

1. Tyres: correctly fitted and balanced?
2. Wheels: true and free from buckles?
3. Discs: True and actually round?* Not warped?
4. Hubs: faces clean? Bearings sound?
5. Drive shafts: play in the CVs?

*there's a reason genuine discs are more expensive... They tend to actually machine them with a degree of accuracy compared to 15 Amazon specials :D

My money's on this, it is perfectly possible to balance a buckled wheel but it will shake the car to pieces on the road.  Had this with more than one pre-facelift MV6 (made of toffee) wheels.

This is interesting, I have original 2001 alloy wheels so let's see. How "Toffee" they can be as your MV6 ones? I install soon brand new and well balanced winter tires with their own alloy wheels so that most propaply can then tell something.
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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #19 on: 25 September 2021, 10:59:57 »

The so called Toffee wheels are Irmscher 17" multispokes as fitted to MFL UK MV6 cars in dark grey with a polished rim, also available direct from Irmscher in silver.

The spokes were relatively thin and distort quite easily compared to most wheels, hence the name.

If you have these on your car, they were almost certainly fitted aftermarket :y

The wheels fitted to the early face-lift MV6  (same size but a dished version of the early face-lift Elite wheel) contains about three times the metal and are almost bombproof.
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polilara

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #20 on: 25 September 2021, 14:06:15 »

Ok, thanks, I do not have those but original ones. They are good. New rear discs came yesterday, install them next week. BUT new finding, I might have another vibration, too: Today I was driving only 60 km/h and felt that vibration in my autobox selector with my fingers, cruise on. When I put cruise off that vibration disappeared immediately. Speed started to decrease an put cruise on again and vibration was back. Tested several times. When "force" is on there is vibration. Can this be something torque converter related or prop related. Torque converter was off together with autobox some years ago when rear crank seal was changed. Could loosen torque converter cause this?
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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #21 on: 25 September 2021, 15:03:16 »

Gearbox mount ;)
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polilara

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #22 on: 25 September 2021, 15:15:00 »

Gearbox mount is "loose", box tail moves up and down when I pull or push it and gear selector moves front and back when I drive in road having flatness problems. How tight this mount should be?
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Nick W

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #23 on: 25 September 2021, 16:30:39 »

Gearbox mount is "loose", box tail moves up and down when I pull or push it and gear selector moves front and back when I drive in road having flatness problems. How tight this mount should be?


you should have to really heave on the end of the gearbox to move it up and down. If it moves easily, then the mount isn't doing its job.


Easy and reasonably cheap fix: fit a new mount
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polilara

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #24 on: 25 September 2021, 16:43:04 »

Ok, thanks Nick W, I change it, you skipped my torque converter theory?
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Nick W

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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #25 on: 25 September 2021, 17:14:47 »

Ok, thanks Nick W, I change it, you skipped my torque converter theory?


Check that while you're under there. But you have to fix the parts you already know are broken.
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Re: Still vibrating, the Whole Car and in "Every" Speed
« Reply #26 on: 25 September 2021, 17:52:13 »

Understood, step by step. Report then.
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