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[rds]

Has anyone managed to work out how to fit a permanent emergency bonnet release activated from outside the car, eg dangling pull chord etc for the facelift model. I do not mean the tool described in the FAQ/Maintenance guide but as something to prevent the need for that by planning ahead and fitting permanently.

I managed to open my bonnet finally and do not want to go through that worry again (yes, I appreciate that fitting  a replacement cable will stave off the reoccurrence at least for a while, but that isn't the point here) and thought that an auxiliary pull might be a good idea (low-life excepted). I have already pulled back the outer cable and there must be a limit to that trick....

Looking at the bonnet release, it seems sandwiched between two sheets of the slam panel and I could see no easy way; however brighter sparks than me might have already done it, so please share!

Cheers

RDS

[Doctor Gollum]

You could try servicing it and adjusting it correctly...

[rds]

Thanks chum; that was done per the maintenance guide, but I am after a different approach as requested!

[Doctor Gollum]

The cable is only one part of the mechanism and without hacking into the upper cross member, (which is structural), you are unlikely to apply any meaningful force to the release mechanism... The other parts being the retaining spring and the latching pin (and spring).

If the bonnet is bent or out of position, even a smidgen, then the latch will bind. The bonnet has four sequential crease points on each side, including right at the top of the grill.

The upper cross member is designed to push back with the bonnet as well, and thanks to being relatively low even a minor tap being reversed into in a car park could tweak the latch position by as much as 5 mm without being immediately obvious.

If your cable is at the limit of adjustment and you still struggle to open the bonnet, then either the cable has stretched or the latch position is off. Or both.

And I speak as the only person here, that I am aware of, who has actually replaced the upper cross member. assembly. And that car still had the original cable at 270k. The only times the bonnet was a struggle to open was following an impact... 1x deer, 1x reversed into by an SUV, 1x giving a Honda Civic a love tap when they decided to stand on the brakes in lane 2 of the M27, and 1x going under the back of an 18t lorry on the M6. All required a new bonnet, and the M6 one being the one that required the upper cross member.


The point being that the cable isn't the only point of adjustment. 

[TheBoy]

Pains me to agree with DG , but I do.

Adjust it right (that includes the bonnet, as well as the cable), and its trouble free with basic annual checks and maintenance.  It the bolt securing the cable no longer secures firmly in the slam panel, then fix that,

If you want to be prepared against cable failure, have a spare grill on standby in case to have to smash in to release the latch.


Any DIY emergency release is going to suffer the same as the standard cable.

[amba]

Remove the cable and complete assembly,then weld a hasp and staple to the bonnet and fit a pad lock.
That should work until you loose the key 

[dave the builder]

Remove the cable and complete assembly, then weld a hasp and staple to the bonnet and fit a pad lock.
That should work until you loose the key 

maybe admin should move this post to the Maintenance Guide Index   

[Andy H]

When mine refused to open I found that it opened easily if someone lent on the bonnet while the handle was being pulled.

Pulling the handle & putting something on the handle to keep it out before walking round and leaning in the bonnet also worked.

[grifter]

I had issues with mine opening and managed to lube and adjust and it opens almost every time now, still need to pull the spring on the bonnet down a bit though as it's a bit lax when it pops up. Trick to get it open if you've no immediate assistance, I jam a key fob under the light and bonnet edge (either edge), then pull the lever.

[Nick W]

I had issues with mine opening and managed to lube and adjust and it opens almost every time now, still need to pull the spring on the bonnet down a bit though as it's a bit lax when it pops up. Trick to get it open if you've no immediate assistance, I jam a key fob under the light and bonnet edge (either edge), then pull the lever.

I've always had more luck lifting them up when pulling the release lever than pushing down. That is easily achieved with the nylon wedge or small airbag in a lockout kit.


The Omega bonnet release isn't unreliable enough(unlike a Rover 75) to need an extra bodged in release 'just in case' when a squirt of grease every time you service the car further reduces the chances of failure. Lubricating hinges, latches and linkages is regular, basic maintenance that everybody does isn't it?

[Doctor Gollum]

Only us by the sounds of it

The use of any bodger and it is clearly not right.

[Rangie]

Only had trouble with mine once so fitted a complete new cable & all other bits required it needed a couple of adjustments & worked perfectly all the time I owned it.

[YZ250]

The bonnet would occasionally stick on mine but as it was well greased and in line, a simple method worked on mine. With the door open I'd use my left hand to pull on the bonnet release lever, then using the side of a clenched fist on my right hand I would thump the rear of the bonnet around the hinge area. As everything else was in line, that little shock was enough to pop it up with no damage.
Obviously not as easy if things don't line up.

[rds]

The latch and release are greased with white lithium regularly, I assure the doubters among you (you know who you are).....So are the door locks and any pivots.

Thankfully the car has not had an impact so that aspect is ok, but I agree, the cross member is not to be trifled with. No, I was thinking of similar aux/emergency pulls on on other cars where another cable piggy-backs of the same latch as the main cable. The aux cable would be much shorter and therefore less susceptible to stretching, and have far less use of course. Trouble is I cannot see the attachment point near the latch,  even using a mirror.

Whilst the tips here are most appreciated, the initial point of this post was to see if anyone HAS fitted an aux release, not to be informed that "you shouldn't need one"; that is evident: I shouldn't need a spare key to the house, or funnily enough my email account, but thankfully this week, I did have (both - hence delay in responding)....

However, the bonnet struts did give way twice last week (car is on a steep slope)  and the bonnet slammed down- not sure if that would have jolted the latch out of position slightly?

Ref the adjustment of the cable, can the clamp bolt be TOO tight so as to bind the inner cable, I wonder? I suspect that the cable has indeed stretched though and I have now moved the cable outer another 5mm. The out cable is about 10mm back from its initial position now, I reckon.

I've looked at the grille too: those retaining screws are VERY tight into plastic and look like they will prefer to crack the plastic or round off the cross-heads.

Andy H - yes that's how I managed the bonnet open: a passing student assisted. Good things, these Degrees.

Grifter - with the trick aren't you rising a cracked light?

Ref the airbag bladder - good idea.

Thanks as ever.
RDS

[grifter]

Grifter - with the trick aren't you rising a cracked light?

It's only the slightest of pressure and has never broke a light. The bonnest doesn't pop up as much as on my elite, so reckon it's just the spring that needs wound downwards a little to help with upward pressure when it releases.

[rds]

many thanks; it's always good to share tips!

[Nick W]

It's always worth checking that the pin and spring on the bonnet are in good condition, clean and lubricated as well as the mechanism on the crossmember

[rds]

good point Nick; I will see if the spring is compressible, however it is lubricated.

[grifter]

It's always worth checking that the pin and spring on the bonnet are in good condition, clean and lubricated as well as the mechanism on the crossmember

Apart from general lubrication, how else can you determine if the spring is ok? I generally give them a bit of oil or spray grease every so often, same with door hinges and catches and anything else that moves/pivots is a hinge.

[Nick W]

It's always worth checking that the pin and spring on the bonnet are in good condition, clean and lubricated as well as the mechanism on the crossmember

Apart from general lubrication, how else can you determine if the spring is ok? I generally give them a bit of oil or spray grease every so often, same with door hinges and catches and anything else that moves/pivots is a hinge.

Check that the spring isn't rusted to the retaining cap or broken, and that there isn't any crap caught in it.


The pin needs to be straight, reasonably clean, greased and burr free where it slots into the latch. They usually screw in or out to provide the bonnet closed height adjustment, so if the car has been damaged at the grill/headlight height that might be necessary.


It only takes minor faults with any of these to make the whole assembly reluctant to release.

[rds]

I will thanks - do you think the couple of heavy slams of the bonnet might have mal-adjusted the alignment?

[Doctor Gollum]

I will thanks - do you think the couple of heavy slams of the bonnet might have mal-adjusted the alignment?

Almost impossible to say either way. If one or both of the bump stops are missing, then the extra twist won't help. If the pin is misaligned then the extra force may have bent it... Any corrosion may cause binding, and may not be immediately visible.

[rds]

nothing missing thankfully but a clean up wont go amiss anyway.

[grifter]

It's always worth checking that the pin and spring on the bonnet are in good condition, clean and lubricated as well as the mechanism on the crossmember

Apart from general lubrication, how else can you determine if the spring is ok? I generally give them a bit of oil or spray grease every so often, same with door hinges and catches and anything else that moves/pivots is a hinge.

Check that the spring isn't rusted to the retaining cap or broken, and that there isn't any crap caught in it.


The pin needs to be straight, reasonably clean, greased and burr free where it slots into the latch. They usually screw in or out to provide the bonnet closed height adjustment, so if the car has been damaged at the grill/headlight height that might be necessary.


It only takes minor faults with any of these to make the whole assembly reluctant to release.

Funnily enough there is a roundish dent on the front of the slam panel, just left of the catch area it's been there since I had it so don't know what caused it, and if it's caused any mis-alignment issue. Will give the spring and pin a closer inspection as well see how they look.

[Doctor Gollum]

Almost certainly pushed back then. How much depends on the original impact.

The fact you have to force the bonnet, however slightly confirms that things are out of whack.

[grifter]

Almost certainly pushed back then. How much depends on the original impact.

The fact you have to force the bonnet, however slightly confirms that things are out of whack.

Certainly sounds plausible, given the elite has no issues with bonnet and CD has even after fine adjustments and lubricating everything. Maybe do a couple of measurements between the cars see if anything different.

[Doctor Gollum]

The upper cross member is three spot welds onto the inboard top lip of the chassis rail, six as an end cap to the inner wing top structure and 11 more to the edge of the inner wing panel below the headlight aperture. Doesn't take much to disturb it.