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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys,

I remember a little while back saying I wanted to get a spare engine and gearbox in case my engine and/or tranny ever died. I also remember someone saying (Kev I think) the body (inc. monocoque/chassis) would die if rust well before the engine.

As I want to keep my Omega for as long as possible (really, I want to get a million miles out of it lol) is there anything I can do to stop this? Obviously wheel arches can be sorted by taking it to the body shop and / or replacing various panels e.g. getting a new rear wheel arch panel welded in.

But is it possible to do the same with the chassis? E.g. I get an mot failure for some chassis rust can I simply get that rust removed and a new piece of metal welded in? And if the chassis (or monocoque) does rust / rot is there any particular area it will go?

I've found rust behind my bumper so i'll be getting that out as soon as poss. (I can do this myself as it doesn't matter if it doesn't look pretty as its behind the bumper )

[Shackeng]

I've just had some welding done including a plate on the box chassis member adjacent to the steering idler, and it passed it's MOT OK.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks mate.

So basically any area can be repaired if necessary?

[Shackeng]

I assume so, provided that it is structurally sound.

[alank46]

Best bet if you are keeping the car for a long period is to rust proof it yourself or get somebody to do it.  The classic car movement is well versed in this sort of work.  Bilt Hamber make a range of suitable products (as do a number of others) 
http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks for that link i'll check that out! 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Its made of steel and hence pretty much any part can be repaired (good job or there would be pretty much no classic cars left!).

Structual bits are often much easier for most to do than body work which is more skilled.

As for appraoch, by far the best is to cut old out and seam weld new in

[Nick W]

These things don't seem too bad for structural rust, so it's probably a good choice for a long term 'keeper'.
 I hope so, as it's my intention.
The thing to do is to stop rust getting a hold, by eliminating it as soon as you spot it. A wire brush on an angle-grinder is the tool of choice, followed by decent paint and stonechip/underseal.
The car is undersealed as standard, so you're going to be scraping damaged areas back to solid, and recovering. This is probably the most unpleasant job to do on a car, and is best done with it on a lift.
Small areas of underseal are easily touched in with aerosols, the paint factor I buy from often has recently date expired ones at a large discount, which I try to keep in stock. That avoids the need for a compressor and schutz gun, which are generally crap.

Panel repairs are straightforward, but are probably best done by a body shop. Coincidentally, I was talking to the bloke repairing my boss's Mustang, he reckons that the damage to my wheelarch and door will be about £300, which means it isn't worth doing myself.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks for the info guys

I was looking underneath and cant see any rust. It doesn't even look like metal...its a dark colour and bobbly. is this years of crap or the underseal you speak of?

[Webby the Bear]

Ps, in the third pic where it says ''heat shield'' is what I mean...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=103491.0

...I assume this is part of the monocoque or is the metal frame underneath this?

[Webby the Bear]

Anyone? lol

[Webby the Bear]

Ps, to Mark.. you mentioned pretty much all of the chassis (monocoque) could be repaired with new metal being welded in. Is there an area wehere you're thinking something couldn't be repaired and the car would have to be scrapped cos of this?

[05omegav6]

Where it says 'heatshield' is the floor of the car, part of the monocoque, not structural, but quite important at keeping the seats off the road

Structural rust would most likely crop up on the front chassis rails along their entire length, but importantly either in front of the front wheels where the subframe/steering gear bolts on or front jacking points, and the rear end of the sills next to the rear subframe donuts... see Mk 1/2/3/4/5 Fiestas and Mk1/2 Kas for a classic example of this

Any rust where the sills meet the door pillars or around the engine bay/slam panel/inner wings/bulkhead areas will also be frowned upon

The grey bobbly stuff is indeed underseal covered in about 10-15 years of crud

[05omegav6]

Ps, to Mark.. you mentioned pretty much all of the chassis (monocoque) could be repaired with new metal being welded in. Is there an area wehere you're thinking something couldn't be repaired and the car would have to be scrapped cos of this?

On the Omega the only area that springs to mind is the bulkhead, but not an area the Omega is prone to rotting in, but repairing it would involve stripping the dash, engine bay and front half of the interior to get at... That applies to most cars in fairness

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks very much Taxi. that pretty much covers what I was thinking!

As mentioned I don't recall ever thinking there is a bunch of rust under my car but basically if I crawl under with a can of the Bilt Hamber stuff that was mentioned earlier and coat where the subframe meets the body, the chassis rails including chassis legs (where front bumper attaches), the jacking points and for good measure the entire length of the sills (where I presume ill see pinch welds?  )

or

do I look for rust first, get that attended to and THEN hose it down with the sealer.

as for the bulkhead.... if getting to it if it ever went wouldn't be a concern.... just knowing that I could if I ever needed to reassures me