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[cyberfarmer]

Does the idle position simulated switch activate when the throttle is released and the full throttle activate on full throttle? - YES

Also, does the TPS load signal accurately follow the throttle position? - YES

Were both engines fitted with the same type of plenum? - NO CHANGE ORIGINAL WITH ENGINE

I think the TPS wiring was different between looms, as we've seen similar problems in the past where 3.0s have been swapped into 2.5 cars or long plenums fitted to 2.5s. You have the loom from a different car to the engine, reading this. If you have the other loom, it'd be worth trying that. Failing that, swap the plenum + throttle body and try that. - WILL TRY TO EXCHANGE LOOMS

[cyberfarmer]

The looms are all the same as both cars are identical except their body shape.

It seems that the engine is lacking air when on idle. Its just strange since before dismantling the engine from the sedan, all worked fine.

I also swapped ECUs but again has the same error reading which cannot be cleared:

1. P004A - MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR VOLTAGE HIGH
2. P0087 - CHECK LIGHT VOLTAGE LOW
3. P0013 - INCORRECT RPM SIGNAL
4. P0015 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR VOLTAGE HIGH
5. P0039 - IDLE CONTROL VALVE VOLTAGE LOW OR AIR CONTROL SOLENOID VOLTAGE HIGH OR PRE THROTTLE CURRENT LOW
6. MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR VOLTAGE LOW - New One

Can I check the airflow meter if its defective or not?

Thanks again

[cyberfarmer]

Alleluia, the wagon idled and started after removing the MAF plug.

Is it to conclude that the MAF is defective now? How to test?

I also scanned and the errors are still persistent, though I know that MAF error will still be positive, but are the other error inter related?

[Bojan]

You have unpluged the MAF?
Now it idles OK, but EML is still on?
Have you tried swaping the MAFs (caravan <-> sedan)?

[cyberfarmer]

Hi Bojan,

CEL is still ON and little rough idling. Yes I have tried exchanging but still the same. Ill try cleaning the sensors tomorrow and see what happens. Is there a way to check them?

Cheers

[Bojan]

If it's all the same with either MAF, then the connector plug or wiring to it might be faulty. Check them first.

[cyberfarmer]

Yes will check the plugs. Are there values to be checked with a multimeter with the MAF plug?

Heres the wagon now

[cyberfarmer]

Gentlemen,

A. Cutting out and MAF error issue:

I must say that I'm the happiest man alive!

I found the culprit - 1 of 4 wires of the MAF wiring loom was cut!

MIL lights off and NO errors!

Thanks guys!


B. Idling:

Idling is quite rough (could feel the little tremble inside the car) and as I increase the rpm - thoughts?

RPM is 600 at idle should I adjust the screw on the throttle body to increase it?


Thanks again guys

[Bojan]

A - great that you've solved the problem.

B - can you try to explain in what way it idles rough? Also, how it works when you give some throttle (on 1000rpm or so)?
600rpm is OK for idle. You can't adjust idle speed on that wcrew.

[cyberfarmer]

at idle start 600 rpm:
engine quite rough you can feel the vibration inside the car. engine moves left and right.

at idle on 1000 rpm:
still feel the vibration

at idle on 1500 rpm:
vibration lessens

at idle 2000 rpm:
no vibration

*no hesitation when increasing rpm
*no sudden drop of rpm when accelerator is released
*spark plugs are dry - though I might have the wrong ones, what is the standard?
*new rocker cover gaskets

[Bojan]

Check for air leaks - vacuum lines, all parts between MAF and engine (both tubing and intake plenum assembly->there is a number of gaskets here), breather pipes and 'ECOTEC' black plastic on top of the plenum (there are several small O-rings that might broke during dissassembly-assembly).
Basically, check in detail every (even the smallest) component that is connected on intake - if there is an even small crack, or a seal that doesn't seal 100% it will run bad.
You know the drill -> use a break-cleaner spray, start spraying the engine (part by part), and listen if there is a change in engine note.

Spark plugs:
I usually use NGK BKR5EK IIRC (single fin) - it works fine with them.
Also, once I've used BOSCH (don't know the code, but it was single fin, too, and it was OK, too).
Last year I've used BOSCH with two fins -> the engine was not running as smooth as it should (a bit lounder, mettalic sound, and a bit rougher running) -> changed to NGK signe fin, and it immidiatelly run perfect.
All in all, single fin spark to be used.

[Kevin Wood]

Don't adjust the screw on the throttle body. This isn't an idle speed adjustment, it's just to ensure the throttle plate doesn't jam in the bore. 600 RPM is the correct idle speed, and it's regulated by the ICV.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Seconded, never touch that screw!

I've a slightly rough idle, it's an air leak. They can be a bugger to find, but find it you must 


To be honest, be amazed if you swapped an X25XE and didn't have a rough idle, they're very sensitive to the leaks of le air.

[cyberfarmer]

Thanks for the list of advise. Did the carb cleaner method and found that some seals were worn out. Redone the seals and some hoses and now idle has improved.

[cyberfarmer]

Omega now is undergoing body restoration



Did some surgery on the bottom door sills due to rust







Replaced Drivers Door from the donor sedan



Repaired battery tray



Once everything done will head out for paint restoration.