Topic: Battery - parasitic drain? (Read 4648 times)

Koomorph · « **on:** 18 June 2015, 16:17:21 »

Gents, I've not been on here for a while as my dad's omega has been thankfully trouble free.

Quick questions though, it has since last week developed a fault where the battery is draining overnight. Car won't start in the morning... but if he disconnects the battery overnight, and reconnects in the morning, it starts the car fine.

I'm seeing him this weekend and looking to do a parasitic drain test to see if we can find the fault. The powersounder has been removed about 3 years ago.... Are there any other common electrical drains/faults which we should consider as first port of call? I've read about the boot light being an obvious one. Accessory relay also...(not sure which this is without seeing the car)? Anything else you can recommend?

Cheers as always!

Shackeng · « **Reply #1 on:** 18 June 2015, 19:09:56 »

Best thing if you can't see anything obvious, is, using your test meter, check how much current drain is with everything off, then pull each fuse in turn to find the culprit.

Koomorph · « **Reply #2 on:** 18 June 2015, 19:31:31 »

Yeh, that's the plan, was just wondering if there is anything else common I should look outfor beyond the boot light.

omega2018 · « **Reply #3 on:** 18 June 2015, 20:55:37 »

drain after 15 mins should settle to 60-80mA apparently. if not start with the big fuses in the engine bay especially fuse FV5 next to the rightmost fuse, FV6. if pulling FV5 stops the drain put it back and start pulling F1, F6, F7, F10, F20, F25, F27, F35 in the cabin. esp F7. also check the relays in the cabin. could be the regulator on the alternator on its way out- replacing that seemed to fix my drain. good luck.

biggriffin · « **Reply #4 on:** 18 June 2015, 21:37:42 »

Common drain is glove box light

also is battery old,and just not man enough to hold whilst connected.

Koomorph · « **Reply #5 on:** 19 June 2015, 09:53:33 »

Thanks everyone, will give it a good going over this weekend and report back.

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #6 on:** 19 June 2015, 09:54:54 »

Might be worth starting by removing the power sounder. They can drain excessively when knackered, and have been known to start a fire.

Consumer delay relay is another possibility, although I doubt that would drain it overnight.

As said, pull the fuses one by one while monitoring current to try to narrow down the faulty circuit.

Sometimes this can be down to a rectifier in the alternator going leaky, so if the pulling of fuses doesn't help, bear this in mind.

Koomorph · « **Reply #7 on:** 19 June 2015, 12:03:56 »

Thanks Kevin - the Powersounder was removed a few years back. Really hoping it's just a boot or glove box light!

omega2018 · « **Reply #8 on:** 19 June 2015, 12:49:34 »

if it is the regulator much better to know now than when you are driving along and it fails completely - you will need recovery. i think FV5 might isolate the alternator but could be wrong. that was the fuse that my drain was going through shortly before the regulator failed completely. i suppose my drain could still be there but not noticed it. i ought to check.

Bigron · « **Reply #9 on:** 19 June 2015, 13:19:38 »

Hitching a ride on this topic, I know my quiescent drain is a bit high and seem to recall a comprehensive chart being posted on here some time back; does anyone have a link, please?
Unrelated, but of concern to me, I tick the "Notify" box for topics of interest but no longer get notifications - any clues, gents?

Ron.

BazaJT · « **Reply #10 on:** 20 June 2015, 21:46:07 »

Can the bonnet switch not also cause this kind of issue?

Koomorph · « **Reply #11 on:** 21 June 2015, 21:07:19 »

So an update to this.... saw my dad and tried to do a drain test... which was somewhat inconclusive - (with the multimeter in series) the drain was very erratic...(jumping from 0.25A to 4.2A) ... becasue... the interior light was going on and off and what sounded like the door solenoids clicking on and off continually every 5 seconds or so.... no stable reading and no idea why the light and (door??) solenoids were clicking... really odd. With the multimeter removed and the battery terminals reconnedted as normal, there was no erratic behavior from the interior electrics.

However, I think the problem may be something else, as he said that the battery warning light on the dash has now started coming on occasionally when driving....

I tested the battery voltage/charge with the car running when at idle and it only showed 12.6v.... dropping over a period of 30seconds to just over 12v. After applying 2K rpm, it rose to 13.2V.... and then slowly kept dropping even at constant rpm. The battery light on the dash would go off.... then on again.... then off when more revs applied....

So it seems like an alternator issue? OR would this be caused by the regulator?
And if either of these.... can I source an inexpensive one for him? Is the regulator a big job/how-to available?
Thanks as always gents!

Bigron · « **Reply #12 on:** 21 June 2015, 21:46:31 »

It does sound like an alternator problem, but it's worth going to one of the larger battery places - even Kwik-Fit - for a free battery and alternator check.
Your erratic behaviour with the meter connected could be due to the internal resistance of the meter, especially if it was on a range lower than the 10A/20A range, upsetting the electroncs.

Ron.

Koomorph · « **Reply #13 on:** 21 June 2015, 21:53:49 »

I'm sure the battery is fine (18months old), as it takes charge over night when removed and charged, and starts the car no problem.... then when disconnected from the negative, it does start the car the next day also.

Reading were taken at 10A... never went down to the 200m scale.... although it's a cheap meter that could be causing issues I guess.

Battery light on the dash and low voltage (12.6v... and dropping) when car is running at idle across the terminals makes me think it's the alternator.... ?

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #14 on:** 22 June 2015, 11:53:49 »

Do check the crimping of the connections into the battery terminals. These can often cause low and fluctuating charging voltage as the crimps become loose. A good sign of problems is if the battery terminals get hot when running.

Failing that, yes, I'd say the alternator has issues, but try charging the battery overnight on a mains powered charger before retesting, as a flat battery can also drag the voltage down (although the battery light is also a sign of alternator issues, TBH).

Koomorph · « **Reply #15 on:** 22 June 2015, 13:45:53 »

Thanks Kevin, the battery terminals are fine and solid... battery has been fully charged overnight also.

Is there a way to test if it's the alternator as a whole... or just the regulator needs replacing?
Also, any how-to guides to do this available...?
Any individuals who could supply a 2nd hand alternator (or regulator)?

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #16 on:** 22 June 2015, 13:53:50 »

There's an alternator repair guide here:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90512.0

The regulator is the most likely issue, IMHO. 2 types of alternator which changed roughly at the introduction of the 2.6/3.2. arts are different but the principle of diagnostics and repair is the same.

I would remove it and check the windings are still bright and copper coloured. If they have blackened or the insulation has started to flake off, then it's probably scrap. Check the bearings are free running with no play or roughness. In some respects, you might as well change them while you're at it, as they are cheap. If all looks OK so far, it will probably be the regulator, but it might be worth checking the diode pack too.

Koomorph · « **Reply #17 on:** 22 June 2015, 14:51:55 »

Thank you again Kevin. I'll initially need to find a guide to remove the bloomin' thing! I may have to call on the services of a local (Surrey/S.London) helpful OOF member for a few quid....

Doubt I'll have the time or skills to overhaul the old one so would probably just need to install a replacement one... (2.6 V6 model)...

Koomorph · « **Reply #18 on:** 28 June 2015, 23:46:27 »

Just to close this thread off and an update.... I was lucky enough for a kind forum member to sell me a 120A alternator (thank you joff!) which arrived quickly last week. We had it fitted with the help of a neighbour and the car is now running fine again! I've not had a chance to have a good look over the old alternator to see what the issue may be.. (regulator, rectifier etc...) - but all is well again.

Thank you everyone for your help and input, especially Kevin answering my PMs - and to joff for the super quick response and sending out the alternator.

Terbs · « **Reply #19 on:** 29 June 2015, 19:03:17 »

Sorry to have to continue this thread, but I have been following.
However, going back to the second post, I think it is....where do you put the meter to check current drain

My battery has gone flat after 3 days non use. Starts with a pack easy, then holds charge, and no problems thereafter. No lights on dash. Can leave the car overnight and starts full power turnover. Longer periods....naff.

Battery not very old.

Andy A · « **Reply #20 on:** 29 June 2015, 20:20:43 »

Quote from: terbert on 29 June 2015, 19:03:17

Sorry to have to continue this thread, but I have been following.
However, going back to the second post, I think it is....where do you put the meter to check current drain
My battery has gone flat after 3 days non use. Starts with a pack easy, then holds charge, and no problems thereafter. No lights on dash. Can leave the car overnight and starts full power turnover. Longer periods....naff.
Battery not very old.

Ignition ON, ignition Off, and disconnect battery within 15 seconds to stop alarm going off.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect red from your meters to the negative wire and black from your meters to the negative battery terminal. Make sure your meter is in the 10 - 20A mode.

Terbs · « **Reply #21 on:** 29 June 2015, 21:57:51 »

Thanks Andy....I have no power sounder (removed)...does 15 seconds still apply

Andy A · « **Reply #22 on:** 30 June 2015, 11:27:53 »

Quote from: terbert on 29 June 2015, 21:57:51

Thanks Andy....I have no power sounder (removed)...does 15 seconds still apply

I don't think the 15 seconds should apply but I have never disconnected one to find out. Let me know the outcome. I'll be interested to know if it does.

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #23 on:** 30 June 2015, 12:03:03 »

The 15 seconds was to defeat the power sounder, so you can ignore that recommendation if you've removed it.

Terbs · « **Reply #24 on:** 30 June 2015, 15:16:14 »

Thankyou Kevin

Andy A · « **Reply #25 on:** 30 June 2015, 17:29:01 »

Is the powersounder just there then to detect if the car battery power is messed with and it does nothing else. Is this correct?

If that is correct then when I reset my wipers back up and have it all apart I just as well disconnect it just encase it catches on fire in the future.

Terbs · « **Reply #26 on:** 02 July 2015, 12:54:28 »

Quote from: Andy A on 30 June 2015, 17:29:01

Is the powersounder just there then to detect if the car battery power is messed with and it does nothing else. Is this correct?

If that is correct then when I reset my wipers back up and have it all apart I just as well disconnect it just encase it catches on fire in the future.

Your choice mate......weigh up the odds of insurance 'difficulties' against 'spontaneous combustion' especially if the power sounder 'chirps' when you switch off.
Well documented on here... 'to remove or not to remove, that is the question,'..... as someone once said

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