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[Doctor Gollum]

Time to dig out the multimeter then

Battery - fuse box ontop of battery - fuse box in the car... and look for the excess current once the car is switched off.

Standing current should be around 0.2 - 0.3 amps, so anything that hasn't quite turned off should stand out.

[cam.in.head]

Gixer had the same issue, cant remember the cause.  I think it might have been the light switch.  Lemme contact him, see if he remembers.

hi. light switch is sat on my kitchen table !   interior light still on !.
i assume the dalay for this is built into the actual light ?

[cam.in.head]

Time to dig out the multimeter then

Battery - fuse box ontop of battery - fuse box in the car... and look for the excess current once the car is switched off.

Standing current should be around 0.2 - 0.3 amps, so anything that hasn't quite turned off should stand out.

morning doc. i am going to check this all this morning. will disconnect battery first then check the big main fuses and then all the ones in the car.
will check current draw

[TheBoy]

Gixer had the same issue, cant remember the cause.  I think it might have been the light switch.  Lemme contact him, see if he remembers.

hi. light switch is sat on my kitchen table !   interior light still on !.
i assume the dalay for this is built into the actual light ?

Interior light delay is in the alarm unit IIRC. Lemme check schems

[TheBoy]

F12 provides +ve feed, alarm (or central locking on poor mans models) switches the -ve side.

[TheBoy]

Does the buzzer stop if yo pull FV6 (80a)?

If so, remove the indicator stalk.

[cam.in.head]

with fuse 12 out interior light still on but radio goes off !
couldnt find an interior fuse to kill interior light. will check suggestions .
thankyou all .

[Doctor Gollum]

FV6 is the one nearest the wing above the battery. One of the two feeds into the cabin... Think the radio is on FV5 fwiw

Following the excess current through the fuseboxes should lead you to the faulty component 

[cam.in.head]

if i pull the one nearest nothing happens.buzzer still sounds.
if i pull the second fuse buzzer goes to normal tone as when you leave lights on.
stops if you pull fuse 3.
will have to do current test after tommorow as my meter that has that feature is at work.
also notice that buzzer gets louder if you operate brightness control !
either way interior light stays on when car is left even for 20 mins well after consumer relay goes off.

[cam.in.head]

It's also getting one step worse each day.
Now interior light won't go off unless engine is running and sidelights are on !
Yesterday it would turn off with engine running only.could we be talking water in alarm unit ?
Where is the alarm unit situated? Is it a separate unit

[cam.in.head]

FV6 is the one nearest the wing above the battery. One of the two feeds into the cabin... Think the radio is on FV5 fwiw

Following the excess current through the fuseboxes should lead you to the faulty component 

Hi doc. What's the thinking here. If something is still drawing power the interior light will remain on ? 

[Doctor Gollum]

Yup

My gut is the light switch is the problem although TB raised a good point re the indicator stalk because if you leave it one side or the other when off, it puts the relevant side lights on...

Either faulty switches or a wiring issue.

The alarm unit is on the drivers door pillar with the autobox ecu.

Any moisture or a bad ground could cause issues.

[cam.in.head]

im pretty sure its not the light switch because even with it removed the interior light stays on .
not removed indicator stalk yet .it works the indicators as it should and works the parking lights correctly too and works the flash and dip/ main beam correctly.cruise also ok.what usually fails ?
tommorow i will check the alarm/cl ecu for any signs of water. and any wiring /earths etc in that area.
im confused about the central locking thou.i used to be able to get out of the car and close the door.interior light still on and be able to central lock and deadlock .
what is the condition it looks for before deadlocking besides knowing you have opened and closed the drivers door?

[Doctor Gollum]

It's not that clever. Deadlocking is the second push of the remote button. What happens if you lock it with the key?

The front interior lights are controlled by three things... The door switch, unlocking and the light switch (pull it out to turn the light on).

The rear lights and boot light are either switched at the light or by opening the relevant door/boot panel.

By tracing through the wiring systematically from the batter will direct you to the affected component(s).

The lightswitch is firm favourite because ALL the lighting wiring runs through it and the eventually cook. However, there is clearly something else going on.

As an aside, the 'buzzer' might be the powersounder starting to keel over.

[cam.in.head]

il have a closer look tommorow after work.
the door switch itself definately works ok and has been swapped for the also tested passenger side one so that eliminates that.
the light switch was physically in my hand so that eliminates that.( terminal 30 on its socket has a zero resistance to earth so thats ok and 31a which closes when switch pulled has a circuit to the buzzer and the roof light.)

theoretically. if the light switch,buzzer and roof light were disconnected / removed should the  entral locking work ok including deadlocking ? or does it need to see the sensors in the roof light.i assume they are the interior alarm sensors .?