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[456lbft]

Fitted a manual gearbox to the spare Y32SE engine ready for exhaust manifolds to be made before trial installation in MV6 "Fred".  Plan is to refresh original engine (stop the oil leaks, and generally tart it up) while we shakedown the manual conversion.

[Doctor Gollum]

Shouldn't be too much to shake down given the factory built them... 

[456lbft]

Shouldn't be too much to shake down given the factory built them... 

  That's certainly what I'm hoping, it's more about checking out our exhaust manifolds and repositioned cats, as well as lightweight flywheel/clutch combination.  Hopefully that should be lively enough to be fun for a while, and give us more time to fettle the "matching numbers" engine before it goes back in...eventually.   

[biggriffin]

Shouldn't be too much to shake down given the factory built them... 

  That's certainly what I'm hoping, it's more about checking out our exhaust manifolds and repositioned cats, as well as lightweight flywheel/clutch combination.  Hopefully that should be lively enough to be fun for a while, and give us more time to fettle the "matching numbers" engine before it goes back in...eventually.   

 I assume your using 200 cell cats, and re postioning the lamdas,  are going to go 2.5" from a Y section or remake as std, to a better flowing twin box then into 1 rear box.

[456lbft]

Shouldn't be too much to shake down given the factory built them... 

  That's certainly what I'm hoping, it's more about checking out our exhaust manifolds and repositioned cats, as well as lightweight flywheel/clutch combination.  Hopefully that should be lively enough to be fun for a while, and give us more time to fettle the "matching numbers" engine before it goes back in...eventually.   

 I assume your using 200 cell cats, and re postioning the lamdas,  are going to go 2.5" from a Y section or remake as std, to a better flowing twin box then into 1 rear box.

Yes, I have mocked it all up, and have the option of a 3" X-pipe going back into twin 2 1/8" (54mm) pipes with two oval centre boxes and single back box with twin pipes in and out. Just got the brackets to finalise once I can get the car on a ramp again. Will experiment with either the X-pipe or twin independent front pipes, depending on the sound and performance difference.  lambdas will be repositioned either side of 200 cell cats which are where the secondary ones usually are.  It's all fairly straightforward, but a fools errand from a commercial point of view...so not exactly a priority right now. 

[iansoutham]

Update on mine....

After making a makeshift shim to slide the seal on with, managed to get that to hold oil.

Top mounts changed and bump stops changed as well (main reason for mounts as damper boots were sitting on the shock body. Done all that to find the alternator is over hanging to 17A+ so that is also goosed.

Found another one in my collection which will be tried tomorrow. If not, new one coming.

Then, once that done, all codes to be cleared and then taken into work one evening to get re-geometried.

Spare alternator fitted and all is good.

Geometry is out but that is expected so taking into work later this week to set up on the Hunter machine. I did add camber adjustment bolts though so should make it a little easier

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Having employed the services of Addy the Unflappable, also of this parish - the project golf is moving on at quite a pace. Getting everything cleaned up ready for the AddyWizard to work his welding magic.

[iansoutham]

Update on mine....

After making a makeshift shim to slide the seal on with, managed to get that to hold oil.

Top mounts changed and bump stops changed as well (main reason for mounts as damper boots were sitting on the shock body. Done all that to find the alternator is over hanging to 17A+ so that is also goosed.

Found another one in my collection which will be tried tomorrow. If not, new one coming.

Then, once that done, all codes to be cleared and then taken into work one evening to get re-geometried.

Spare alternator fitted and all is good.

Geometry is out but that is expected so taking into work later this week to set up on the Hunter machine. I did add camber adjustment bolts though so should make it a little easier

Well, got mine done yesterday. Managed to get the front camber to -1 degree 23 minutes as that is the best I could get at the time holding the whee upright whilst someone locked the bolts up. A stronger bod at a later date will get it perfect. All other settings as per WIM

[Nick W]

Geometry is out but that is expected so taking into work later this week to set up on the Hunter machine. I did add camber adjustment bolts though so should make it a little easier

Well, got mine done yesterday. Managed to get the front camber to -1 degree 23 minutes as that is the best I could get at the time holding the wheel upright whilst someone locked the bolts up. A stronger bod at a later date will get it perfect. All other settings as per WIM

Work smarter, not harder: when I did mine, I tightened the camber bolts whilst my 75 year old mother held the wheel in place with the jack handle through one of the 'spokes.' I used a magnetic digital angle gauge stuck to a length of angle-iron cable tied across the wheel rim for the camber reading. When I had the alignment done properly, it was about 3 minutes out.

[STEMO]

Geometry is out but that is expected so taking into work later this week to set up on the Hunter machine. I did add camber adjustment bolts though so should make it a little easier

Well, got mine done yesterday. Managed to get the front camber to -1 degree 23 minutes as that is the best I could get at the time holding the wheel upright whilst someone locked the bolts up. A stronger bod at a later date will get it perfect. All other settings as per WIM

Work smarter, not harder: when I did mine, I tightened the camber bolts whilst my 75 year old mother held the wheel in place with the jack handle through one of the 'spokes.' I used a magnetic digital angle gauge stuck to a length of angle-iron cable tied across the wheel rim for the camber reading. When I had the alignment done properly, it was about 3 minutes out.

3 minutes? That's not long, well done 

[iansoutham]

Geometry is out but that is expected so taking into work later this week to set up on the Hunter machine. I did add camber adjustment bolts though so should make it a little easier

Well, got mine done yesterday. Managed to get the front camber to -1 degree 23 minutes as that is the best I could get at the time holding the wheel upright whilst someone locked the bolts up. A stronger bod at a later date will get it perfect. All other settings as per WIM

Work smarter, not harder: when I did mine, I tightened the camber bolts whilst my 75 year old mother held the wheel in place with the jack handle through one of the 'spokes.' I used a magnetic digital angle gauge stuck to a length of angle-iron cable tied across the wheel rim for the camber reading. When I had the alignment done properly, it was about 3 minutes out.

Our problem was the wheel was already at about 5+ feet in the air on a geo ramp and getting the right angle (using a pry bar behind the wheel spoke) meant the sensor was being blocked and we were shutting the building shortly. At least the camber setting won’t be detrimental compared to the +0.6 degrees on the left and the -2.4 degrees camber on the right hand side

[Doctor Gollum]

Update on mine....

After making a makeshift shim to slide the seal on with, managed to get that to hold oil.

Top mounts changed and bump stops changed as well (main reason for mounts as damper boots were sitting on the shock body. Done all that to find the alternator is over hanging to 17A+ so that is also goosed.

Found another one in my collection which will be tried tomorrow. If not, new one coming.

Then, once that done, all codes to be cleared and then taken into work one evening to get re-geometried.

Spare alternator fitted and all is good.

Geometry is out but that is expected so taking into work later this week to set up on the Hunter machine. I did add camber adjustment bolts though so should make it a little easier

Well, got mine done yesterday. Managed to get the front camber to -1 degree 23 minutes as that is the best I could get at the time holding the whee upright whilst someone locked the bolts up. A stronger bod at a later date will get it perfect. All other settings as per WIM

Two observations:

1. Camber adjustment bolts are a waste of time. Surropticious use of a round file will get significantly more adjustment without the risk of slipping back.

2. The current settings are irrelevant if the camber is wrong.

As a further aside, was the rear end set up at the same time?

[iansoutham]

Update on mine....

After making a makeshift shim to slide the seal on with, managed to get that to hold oil.

Top mounts changed and bump stops changed as well (main reason for mounts as damper boots were sitting on the shock body. Done all that to find the alternator is over hanging to 17A+ so that is also goosed.

Found another one in my collection which will be tried tomorrow. If not, new one coming.

Then, once that done, all codes to be cleared and then taken into work one evening to get re-geometried.

Spare alternator fitted and all is good.

Geometry is out but that is expected so taking into work later this week to set up on the Hunter machine. I did add camber adjustment bolts though so should make it a little easier

Well, got mine done yesterday. Managed to get the front camber to -1 degree 23 minutes as that is the best I could get at the time holding the whee upright whilst someone locked the bolts up. A stronger bod at a later date will get it perfect. All other settings as per WIM

Two observations:

1. Camber adjustment bolts are a waste of time. Surropticious use of a round file will get significantly more adjustment without the risk of slipping back.

2. The current settings are irrelevant if the camber is wrong.

As a further aside, was the rear end set up at the same time?

1) I agree to a point. Worked perfectly on the left side, not quite enough on right side. Done up right, no problem with slipping back. I use them on another car with no problems. Omega is simply
made with just too much adjustment from factory. The height of the car from the floor meant that no extra movement could be made and held until bolts were tight (I could pull it to nearly upright by hand.

2) again, I agree, but if you cannot get to 1.10, 1.23 is a damn lot better than it could have been (and certainly better than 1.4’ factory number).

3) yep, rear all set up to WIM specs and zero thrust angle

[Nick W]

1) I agree to a point. Worked perfectly on the left side, not quite enough on right side. Done up right, no problem with slipping back. I use them on another car with no problems. Omega is simply
made with just too much adjustment from factory. The height of the car from the floor meant that no extra movement could be made and held until bolts were tight (I could pull it to nearly upright by hand.

Camber bolts work really well when there is adjustment at just one of the mounting holes. Then turning the eccentric bolt makes the unit pivot around the fixed bolt. But the Omega strut is attached at two slots for some reason, which is why the camber and toe are lost when struts are removed.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Much easier to set camber on your own with one of those inflatable bags used for easing the door frames out when you lock the keys in or a wedge. Just insert between strutt and top of the wheel, inflate or tap in until setting is correct