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Central locking inoperative using key fob.

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johnnydog:
Sorry to resurrect this......both my keys worked for a short while after my last post, but then they both packed up within a matter of a week or so - wouldn't unlock / lock the car or operate the boot release. The car was off the road for most of last year, and whenever I've used it since, I've locked it through the drivers door, which has done my nut in.....

Laterly, the interior light has been staying on when the doors have been shut (although the puddle lights have timed out), which kicked started me into sorting out the gremlins again.
cam.in.head has given me some helpful pointers regarding the interior light issue (cheers Chris), but I decided to try and sort the c/locking issue whilst in the drivers kick panel area.

I decided to remove the anti theft / central locking ecu from an identical breaker (age, engine and spec) having first checked that it operated the doors etc from the key for that car. Amazed that I have been pilfering it for parts for probably 12 years, with a new fob battery, it locked and unlocked all doors etc perfectly. I then removed the ATWS ECU and fitted it to the problem car, and bingo, it locked / unlocked all doors with the fob (had to replace a lazy passenger door c/l motor, but the least of my worries) and it also popped the boot perfectly.
I intend to get the original keys checked again by a different place, along with the original ECU.
Am I right in assuming that I can instead use this apparently good ATWS ECU in the problem car, with the 3 button part of the key fobs, with the horseshoe / blade and transponder chip from the problem car as one unit, as I understand from the previous posts, the button part of the fob just operates the ATWS and the c/locking etc, and the transponder chip speaks the engine ECU for engine starting, just to keep one key to operate everything?

Sorry to drag this up again...

cam.in.head:
yes the key physically turns the locks it is cut for, the little removeable chip operates the immobiliser ring and the ( detacheable) section with the buttons works with the alarm/cl ecu it is programmed to .  all 3 completely isolated systems of the car .

johnnydog:
Thanks very much again Chris! :y

TheBoy:
If you use the donor ATWS with the donor fobs, but use the original key blade and transponder from your car, you ill have no issues*


*unless you need new fobs programmed to the car, as they will need the PIN security code from the donor car.  Programming new transponders will still use the PIN security code from your car.

Doctor Gollum:
Car pass from donor car will take care of that, but belts and braces would be V5, VIN and Registration number as well.

If the car is still in your possession that will make it alot easier to obtain the car pass.

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