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Central locking inoperative using key fob.

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johnnydog:

--- Quote from: Nick W on 19 November 2021, 18:57:20 ---
--- Quote from: johnnydog on 19 November 2021, 18:07:03 ---The main fob I had been using has been tested and although the led light on it doesn't illuminate, it is sending a signal out from all buttons; the led on the 'spare' fob illuminates, but the fob is 'dead' and is not sending out any signal from any buttons. Does this make sense? Both start the car. The fob batteries are new on both.

--- End quote ---


You're mixing up the three separate parts of the key: the remote which operates the central locking and the alarm and is reliant on the battery; the key which operates all the lock barrels, but is normally only used to turn the ignition lock; and the immobiliser chip which is hidden inside the remote body and works on PFM.


Checking the battery holder inside the remote is the first place to check a poorly performing fob.

--- End quote ---

Fair enough, I see your point - I gave the details of everything that the fob and key was or wasn't doing to try and give a clearer picture....obviously it didn't......!

Ok, so the central locking isn't operating using the normal key fob I use remotely. It has been tested by a car key locksmith, and a signal is being transmitted by each button, but this signal is not being picked by whatever receives it in the car to operate the central locking to both unlock and lock it. The boot release button on the fob is sending a signal apparently, but not actually operating the boot release.
Their code reader and key programmer read fault code 32 described as 'trunk sw'.
Using the key manually everything works as it should - it's just the remote side of it that isn't.
If it is transmitting a signal on all buttons, doesn't that mean the battery holder is functioning correctly?
Any thoughts?

Doctor Gollum:
You haven't managed to swap the fobs during a mass battery replacement session?

If any of your other Omega fobs lock/unlock it then you'll have found the culprit. ;)

johnnydog:
This is what I said right at the beginning......neither fob locks / unlocks  the car remotely. The 'main' fob is still sending out signals whilst my 'spare' isn't. They couldn't have been confused though during the battery replacement as they have totally different tags on them which were left on, along with spare swan neck towbar keys etc.
I am at a bit of loss as why the signal being transmitted should suddenly stop being picked up by the reciever end of the car?

Doctor Gollum:
TVP dumped two perfectly good V70s because neither would start... Originally in the workshops for completely unrelated issues and suddenly wouldn't start.

Turned out the keys were swapped by accident.

So don't rule out the stupidly unlikely just because you don't believe that you could do it... Someone else may have.

TheBoy:
As Nick W explained, the fact that the mechanical key works, and the car starts are nothing to do with the remote locking/unlocking.

The immobiliser chip is the tiny plastic oblong glued into the U shaped piece of the key, and not part of the fob that detaches to change battery (on post 1998 cars).

So it sounds to me like the fob(s) just aren't working, but everything else is.


The fault code is a red herring.  I'm going to assume the car has an alarm, as only cars equipped with ATWS have a fault code 32 - standard Central Locking only ones do not.  On ATWS equipped cars, fault code 32 is inclination sensor malfunction.


Now, I'm making the assumption* that the fobs used to fully work, and nobody has been doing any programming on the system.

I'm also making the assumption** that attempts to synchronise the key have been successful (indicated by the lock/unlock action during the procedure).

So we're back to the original checks of ensuring the battery holder is secure and making good electrical contact with the PCB :)



*If that assumption is incorrect, then the fobs need to be of the correct type, and programmed correctly to the car using a Tech2.

** If that assumption is incorrect, then try the resin procedure. If that fails, the fob either isn't working, or has not been programmed to the car.

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