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Topics - GrahamK

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
1

Hi all,
I need a bit of help with an Insignia headlamp connector which I broke when removing the headlamp. I've got a replacement that came with a cut off connector still attached. Great I thought!
However, the cable tails are a little too short to extend so I would like to extract the cables and contacts from this plug and put the ones on my car back in. I will then end up with a working plug.
Problem is, I can't get them out. I've tried squeezing the contacts and pulling the wire (and contact) out of the rear and also tried to pull them out of the front but nothing is moving. Does anyone know how these work?

https://i.postimg.cc/WpZDCcFX/headlamp-connector-front.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/XvFS3LfS/headlamp-connector-rear.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Graham.

2
Hi all, been after one of these for a while. Anyone got one to move on?
Regards,
Graham

3
I finally managed to get the Mig down to WIM in Chesham for the full monty and I thought other members might be interested in the experience and thoughts following the work. I also think it might be helpful to give an update on personnel there and likely costs. Finally, did I think it was worth the £105 + VAT that I paid.

A bit of background first. I've had my current Omega (my third) for getting on for two years with the intention of running it as a modern classic. It drove rather sloppily when I first got it and I know that whilst not being a sports car, a well sorted one drives very well.
During my ownership I've done the usual recommended things on here for returning it to something like how a new car drives.
New springs and dampers all round, (Sachs/Monroe)(renewed strut bump stops, bearings and dust shields, new poly-bushed front wishbones, used and re-furbished 17" Elite wheels with new rubber. (Avons) renewed rear doughnuts (which I was dreading but was actually quite easy)   New discs and pads all round. I also flushed the brake fluid. I did buy a set of rear handbrake shoes, but the originals fitted by Vauxhall were so barely worn, I left them in.  I also did the front drop links and changed the front and rear track control arms. These were not particularly worn on my car but were seized solid. I figured if they should fail following a full geometry, it would be rather annoying. 
Arrived at WIM and met Joe who does the twiddly stuff on their Hunter rig. His predecessor Tony, often mentioned on here has now retired. Joe seemed knowledgeable and finished the job in just under an hour. He gave me an estimate when i booked of a maximum of £139 +VAT depending on what needed adjustment. They now charge on a per adjustment basis. I though this seemed a bit expensive, but decided to give it a go. They do not offer an OOF discount. I was interested to hear that they only do a couple of Omega's a year now.
Once connected up to the machine and the first readings were displayed, Joe said this must have been a bit lively on the way down! there was a lot of RED. Obviously I had tried to replace all the relevant items as carefully as I could to avoid changing settings, but It isn't an exact science.
Now on to the verdict, which is I would absolutely recommend this service. It really is a night and day difference. How so? On the way down to Chesham the car was driving OK. Tended to tramline a little bit, bump steer quite noticeable and I have found driving with one hand on the wheel and the elbow on the armrest was a little uncertain. One thing I didn't appreciate until after the work was the steering would load up and unload, depending on the steering angle selected. This was fairly subtle, but once it disappeared  it made a huge difference to how smooth the car turned and tracked. The tramlining and bump steer has totally disappeared. Vehicle positioning entering and exciting roundabouts and the like suddenly feels far more precise.

As a final comment, I thought about what changes during my ownership has reaped the most noticeable benefits.
I would say that for my car: -

1. WIM set up
2. Rear Do-nuts
3. Front Wishbones
4. 17" wheels and new rubber (no self levelling)

Of course the new springs and dampers made a big difference, but the better location of the front and rear suspension following the wishbones/do-nuts was a biggie.

Regards,

Graham.

4
Omega General Help / New rear wheel bearing fitted-Slight play- Help!
« on: 11 September 2021, 10:45:31 »
Finally have the rear nearside hub and new bearing back together.
Drives smooth, no rumble or noise.
However, there is just perceptible rocking 12 & 6 (not checked the other quadrants yet) (It is an SKF bearing)
Is this a problem?
The other side, which is original VX has zero play.
Could I have failed to tighten the hub nut quite enough? Might nipping it up make a difference? My torque wrench goes to 200 Nm, so I torqued it to 200 plus a bit more.
Could I have cocked up the Hub install? The new bearing pulled in easy, but the hub was very hard to get seated. using old inner bearings as spacers required very high forces. Although when you are working backwards this makes everything feel difficult.
Could it be anything else?

5
Omega General Help / Removing rear hub Questions.
« on: 18 August 2021, 11:02:13 »

I need to remove a Omega 2.6 saloon rear hub to have it machined or possibly replace it. I have most of it apart, but i am a little unclear about how to get it out.
I have searched the forum, but i am not clear about how to go about it. I tried to hammer it out from the rear with a soft faced mallet, but it's not moving.
First, I understand that the Driveshaft flange pulls off. could I span the flange with a bar, bolt it too the flange and use a centre bolt to push against the rear of the hub. (The main hub nut is off) Will this be enough to pull it and not risk cracking the flange? I also have a 3 arm puller that could be used to similar effect.
Could this action alone be enough to ping out the hub?
re the hub, I've seen the tool on my searches that bolts into the backplate holes and pushes the Hub out. Obviously I need to pull the Drive flange before this can work.
Finally, I have no rear bearing problems at the moment but I understand when the hub pops out it could end up with part of the bearing stuck on it. Is a new bearing inevitable then?
If it comes out without the bearing, would it be possible to re-use the existing bearing.
I have another post in this section, I am looking for a rear hub, if you have one for sale?
Thanks.
Graham.

6
Following a cross threaded wheel bolt, I now need another Rear hub. Not sure if there are any differences, but the vehicle is a late 2.6 saloon with vented rear discs.
Sadly, the garage that cross threaded it whilst changing tyres are not going to be trusted again, at least not by me.
If anyone has got a hub in their spares stash that could be for sale, that would be great.

thanks,

Graham..

7
Omega General Help / Wheels in motion Full Geometry questions.
« on: 08 July 2021, 18:50:40 »
Hi all,

I will shortly visit WIM to get the full Geo set-up that was originally planned last year but didn't happen, for obvious reasons.
I'm trying to anticipate any issues with regard to the adjusters coming undone. I've tried to loosen up the track control arms, but they are seized solid. I have bought a pair of genuine new arm assemblies for both sides, so i can swap them out before I go. The pinch bolts at the hub are recently new from when I changed the struts, so they should be OK. The Steering idler arm had no play at the last MOT, but might it be worth changing? Is it straightforward to DIY?
Finally, I understand there are also adjustments at the rear, but I can't think where they are. What do I need to look for?

Final question, should I just leave it to WIM and presume with hook or by crook they will be able to sort it. Big hammer, heat, whatever. The guy told me (Tony I think) they charge by adjustments required and (last Sept) the maximum it could be was £139. When he quoted me, I didn't know about the OOF discount, so hopefully that might come down a bit as it was a bit more than I was expecting.

Regards,

Graham.

8
Omega General Help / Splitting Engine and Auto box (Out of car)
« on: 10 June 2021, 14:45:52 »
I'm planning on splitting an Omega V6 engine and gearbox this weekend and despite reading the manual I'm not sure if I can split them without removing the bolts connecting the torque convertor to the flywheel. It looks as if I can, as the Torque convertor does not seem attached to the gearbox directly. Once apart I plan to remove the TC. Have I got this right?
Regards,

Graham.

9
I have a strange symptom with my turn left indicators. Right ones work as expected.
When turning left, the actual indicators work fine but inside the car, the right indicator flashes along with the main beam and both fog indicator lights. The MID text also blinks in time too.
I've changed the instrument binnacle to another one and it does the same thing?
This type of fault was usually an earth issue in the old days, but the actual indicators and repeaters all work fine?

Any ideas?

10
Omega General Help / Engine out corrosion check
« on: 03 May 2021, 18:13:47 »
I'm planning an engine and gearbox swap, as discussed on another thread, however, while the engine bay is empty it seems an ideal time to have a closer look at the structural elements, particularly around the front chassis rails. I've looked as best as I can before I bought the car and again when it was on the ramp being MOT'd last year. It looks OK, but I plan to strip off the factory underseal to have a proper look and then re-apply. I bought a tub of good underseal and some Supertrol.
In all honesty, I would appreciate any pointers on what to look for and where.

Regards,

Graham.

11
Further to my other thread, Here is a list of my current thinking of what to do to the engine and gearbox for my proposed transplant.

Gearbox first. Really only intending to clean the Transmission fluid filter and refresh the fluid. Will need 2 new gaskets apparently. Not checked availability for these, as yet.

Engine wise only intending to do what I consider the essentials. Engine has around 100K on it and was running fine when removed. However, it has been off the car for around 2 years.
Cambelt and other Aux belts
Oil and filter, obviously.
Probably do water pump and Thermostat, as I have them.
State of Cam cover gaskets are an unknown so I'm going to change them while I have such easy access
Clean breathers and throttle body.
Probably change the rear crank seal while it is all apart.


Am I missing anything obvious? Am I doing anything unnecessary?

Regards,

Graham.

12
Omega General Help / Engine and gearbox change 2.6 to 3.2
« on: 01 May 2021, 10:50:22 »
Hi all,
I've recently picked up a 3.2 engine and AR35 gearbox and I'm planning a DIY engine change.

Will the ancillaries off my 2.6 fit and work correctly with the 3.2?

I have the 3.2 plenum but I am particularly interested in issues for the throttle body, MAF?

Are there any other issues regarding the swap that I need to be aware of?

I understand that the final drive is different on the 2.6, but have seen threads here discussing the 3.2 with its standard (Auto) Diff is considered a little high geared, so this may be a positive. If there are any other views on this, I would be interested to hear.

Regards,

Graham.




13
Hi all,

I'm after a genuine Irmscher grill for a facelift Omega. Don't mind if the "i" is not present.

Anyone got anything?

Regards,

Graham.

14
Omega General Help / Late model powersounder wanted
« on: 12 November 2020, 17:38:36 »
Mods Please Move

My Mig (2003 V6) is doing the 4 beeps of powersounder death.

Having personally completely renewed the suspension and brakes on all four corners, should it burst into flames just now I think I might just cry. (Sorry)

Has anyone got one available off a late facelift available for sale.
I searched on here and can't find any indication that there are different ones fitted to facelifts, but if anyone can confirm if there are.
I am handy with a soldering iron, so if anyone has more than one spare, perhaps we could do a trade? I trust a suitable battery should be available somewhere.

Regards,

Graham.

15
Omega General Help / strut to steering knuckle bolts
« on: 19 October 2020, 18:54:12 »
I've just changed the struts on my Omega and re-used the existing nuts and bolts as they were in good condition.
On reflection, I've decided I am going to renew them and have WIM pop them in when I have the full set up done. Doing very little mileage at present, so I think they should be OK for a bit.

However, looking at a parts catalogue the bolts seem to be two different sizes, M12 and M14?? I only put them in yesterday and i am fairly sure they are the same size?

If they are different, they certainly went in the holes without difficulty. surely, I couldn't have been that lucky. Perhaps the smaller bolt goes in the lower oval hole to provide more room to adjust for camber.

Am I going mad.

Graham.

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