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Messages - JamesV6CDX

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 1145
1
Omega General Help / Re: Codes 0130 and 0150
« on: 22 June 2022, 16:25:27 »
So, far away from home, Y26SE auto, engine light on. Pedal trick gave 0130 and 0150. Code reader at home. Runs and drives perfectly. Just happened during my way here. What's this? How can Bank 1 and Bank 2 sensors fail simultaneously? ECU Failure? Please help.

Have you cleared out the codes, and looked at what returns? Also have you looked at the live data for the sensors with the car running - and if so, are you seeing values for either sensor such as cycling voltages?

2
I've had great results with Circoli from Euro Car Parts. About £30... and seems well built, without the thin pulley that some cheap pumps have....

3
General Car Chat / Someone please buy this!
« on: 16 June 2022, 08:02:26 »
A steal at £1500 - we ALL must know this car! :y

https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1459589

Disclaimer - Iím not affiliated, just saw it online :y

4
Pm incoming in 5

5
General Discussion Area / Re: Costa - a lot
« on: 06 June 2022, 15:56:03 »
Unless youíre a real coffee snob, my nespresso machine (with milk frother) makes absolutely brilliant latte :y

6
General Car Chat / Re: Migalot's Transmission Repair - Photos
« on: 04 June 2022, 18:19:51 »
James the Wizard has finished installing the AR35 and reports that the gear changes are "silky smooth". :y

I'm collecting it tomorrow and can't wait.

I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve. ;D ;D

It drives like a different car. So pleased sheís saved from the scrappy :y

7
Omega General Help / Re: Help! Error code P1700
« on: 01 June 2022, 02:18:21 »
Gearbox is buggered. Lots of slippage, smell of burning friction, thumping, and limp mode.

I suspect the solenoid change temporarily masked the problem, and that the old one was killed by whatever is falling to bits inside the box.

Car is now on my drive for an upgrade to AR35 incl new Torque Converter and if needs be, flex plate (auto version of a flywheel)

Watch this space for photos / videos and updates :y
I knew something was afoot when you asked if you could pick up the box from Joe.

Can you get me a job in CID?  ;D

Yeah sure. You can have mine  ::)

I asked for the box because Migalot texted me to say there was a funny vibration / sensation. My inner sense just detected the gearbox would be the culprit. Iíve been suspicious of it.

Thankfully I was right - and we have a free AR35, so all thatís been lost is some ATF / a solenoid :y
I am in awe of the way you work. I am also feeling guilty for tagging you and getting you involved ::)

Asking the following because I genuinely don't know the answer - has the dying box pumped debris through the cooler and the cooler hoses? if it has done so is it OK to flush them & re-use?

I am sure the cooler will be fine with a flush. What I can say, is that the nice clean red ATF we pumped in a couple of weeks ago, is brown and smells really burnt. Clearly the mechanicals of the box have been letting go, which is what buggered the original pressure solenoid.

The cooler will be thoroughly flushed,  and I am confident that will be more than sufficient, providing there are no blockages to the flow, which I doubt there will be, It seems that most of the debris went in the bottom of the ATF sumps :y


8
General Car Chat / Re: Migalot's Transmission Repair - Photos
« on: 01 June 2022, 02:14:12 »
Also nice to see one in Moonland. And why is it on CD wheels? :y

It's actually a CD. I keep thinking it's an Elite because it's got Elite leather in it :D

9
General Car Chat / Re: Migalot's Transmission Repair - Photos
« on: 31 May 2022, 20:21:20 »
Now place a heavy duty Jack (ideally a transmission one) under the gearbox, but in any case it must have rubber padding, don't go metal-on-metal to the sump. Jack up the transmission just to take the weight of it.



Now, remove the two 15mm bolts holding the gearbox mount to the chassis.



Because the two 19mm bellhousing bolts are in, the gearbox won't separate from the engine at this time, but it will lower down. This will give you good access to the loom / electrical plugs on the passenger side of the box. This is the ideal opportunity to make sure everything is disconnected - including the speed sensor at the back.

Also remove the cable ties holding the gearbox breather, to the engine/gearbox loom.

Once you're satisfied everything is disconnected, raise the gearbox back up using the jack, and loosely re-install the two gearbox mounting bolts for safety. Now undo the two remaining 19mm bellhousing bolts.

Also, remove the oil cooler pipes, and loop them back on each other to prevent any spillage.

You can now once more remove the two rear mounting bolts, and SLOWLY lower the gearbox and torque converter out of the car, as one unit. You can see it starting to split:



If you can, get an assistant to help hold the box steady, and gently lower the jack until it's on the ground. You can then simply wheel the damaged gearbox out from underneath the car:






That's it, for today. The old back won't manage anything else today. It's done me loads of good mentally, though, I forgot all of my worries whilst working on this, I totally forgot how therapeutic this kind of therapy is!

Further updates to follow. I will take today's progress as a win, especially given the intermittent rain, and the long delays by the rusty exhaust bolts!

Beer time.

10
General Car Chat / Migalot's Transmission Repair - Photos
« on: 31 May 2022, 20:20:51 »
I made a start on swapping out Migalot's transmission on his lovely V6 Elite, today - replacing a clapped out AR25 autobox, with the stronger AR35 model used on the 3.0 / 3.2.

Obviously, safety first, so vehicle supported using 2 x three tonne axle stands:

Really important - the back wheels must be chocked for this job! You will be removing the prop-shaft (and gearbox!) so placing the lever in "P" will do nothing........






Next step - removing both catalytic converters (required for access, to get at / remove the gearbox)

Remember, these cars are 20+ years old now, the bolts are OLD and rusty, especially exhaust bolts, and WILL break if you don't use care!

Don't use WD40, it's useless as a lubricant - use either plus-gas, or, PB Blaster (amazing stuff). Saturate the bolts holding the catalytic converters to the exhaust. Also saturate the downpipe to manifold nuts. Walk away for an hour, come back, saturate some more.



Believe it or not, it took me a couple of hours to get all four bolts undone, which hold the cats to the mid-sections. This was with repeated spraying, and gently working them back and forth. I managed to get three out of four out intact, and only broke one, which I will try and extract tomorrow (failing that, I'll drill and rethread it). I was quite pleased to get three - usually, they all break!





Next step was to remove the manifold to downpipe nuts. This is where I ran into the first real concern - they would not budge for love nor money, despite using a 6 sided, correct socket. I think a ham-fisted mechanic has been in there before, because the nuts were somewhat rounded, and eventually, the socket was just spinning.

Thankfully, my old friend, the IWRIN socket set, came to the rescue. These sockets have saved my bacon on more occasions that I care to remember, and are worth their weight in gold. Using these - I managed to get all four off. It made me remember how awkward the nuts are to get at on the DBW engine, due to the pre-cats. Had to use a selection of bars/adapters, but got there in the end:















Anyway, now off with the prop-shaft. The bolts fell in a great position, meaning I could get them all with a short stubby spanner on the bolt head, and a ratchet on the nuts:






Off with the multiplug, which feeds the shift solenoids. Also removing the selector switch plug, and the gear linkage:



We now remove all of the bellhousing bolts APART From one big 19mm bolt on each side, to hold it in my now. There are four 13mm bolts at the bottom, and various ones around the housing, including at the top. I forgot how much of a contortionist you have to be, to get the very top ones!







For the very topmost one, I find that an extension bar is too long, but a socket on the ratchet doesn't fit - so, I made a small extension bar, using two adaptors:



Remove the front drip-tray, to allow access to the crank pulley bolt (this will become clear in a moment).



There is a bung between the engine block and the back of the flex-plate (flywheel). Laying on your back, turn the engine (only ever clockwise!) until you see the first 15mm bolt appear, through this aperture. Undo and remove it. Slowly turn the engine, until the next one appears - and remove it. So on and so forth, until you've got all six. If you go too far, DON'T turn the engine backwards like some shady garages do - keep going clockwise, until it comes around again.



Once you've undone these six bolts, the torque-converter comes away with the gearbox as one unit. This is REALLY important, because leaving the TC bolted to the flywheel will ruin the oil seal of the TC nose, and cause a significant ATF leak.

11
Omega General Help / Re: Help! Error code P1700
« on: 30 May 2022, 19:58:52 »
Gearbox is buggered. Lots of slippage, smell of burning friction, thumping, and limp mode.

I suspect the solenoid change temporarily masked the problem, and that the old one was killed by whatever is falling to bits inside the box.

Car is now on my drive for an upgrade to AR35 incl new Torque Converter and if needs be, flex plate (auto version of a flywheel)

Watch this space for photos / videos and updates :y
I knew something was afoot when you asked if you could pick up the box from Joe.

Can you get me a job in CID?  ;D

Yeah sure. You can have mine  ::)

I asked for the box because Migalot texted me to say there was a funny vibration / sensation. My inner sense just detected the gearbox would be the culprit. Iíve been suspicious of it.

Thankfully I was right - and we have a free AR35, so all thatís been lost is some ATF / a solenoid :y

12
Omega General Help / Re: Help! Error code P1700
« on: 30 May 2022, 18:55:27 »
Gearbox is buggered. Lots of slippage, smell of burning friction, thumping, and limp mode.

I suspect the solenoid change temporarily masked the problem, and that the old one was killed by whatever is falling to bits inside the box.

Car is now on my drive for an upgrade to AR35 incl new Torque Converter and if needs be, flex plate (auto version of a flywheel)

Watch this space for photos / videos and updates :y

13
Omega General Help / Re: My Omega's Cats stolen
« on: 30 May 2022, 04:22:32 »
Absolute parasites.

Whilst I agree CCTV at night is far less useful, itís not automatically inadmissible - admissibility of evidence is another ball game. and as others have said, it could be the local plod are investigating a crime series of this nature, and your footage could be the missing piece. Even if faces / indexes are not identifiable, it can (and often is) be used to form circumstantial evidence, especially in a series of similar offences.

I agree - sleeve the pipes for now, and Bide your time for 2 known good, used GM cats, if possible :y




14
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Free to a good home
« on: 29 May 2022, 15:53:50 »
Sent you a text re tomorrrow :y

15
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Free to a good home
« on: 28 May 2022, 18:31:07 »
Hi, could I please Collect the gearbox either late on Sunday, or early Monday? Thanks !

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