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[r1]

ive got a flexi pipe to replace on a 306 as its looking a bit worse for wear but i wonded how the best way to do it.in the past its only metal lines ive had to replace so ive always clamped it of at the flexi but of course this timei cant,so what the best way of doing it?

[Andy B]

ive got a flexi pipe to replace on a 306 as its looking a bit worse for wear but i wonded how the best way to do it.in the past its only metal lines ive had to replace so ive always clamped it of at the flexi but of course this timei cant,so what the best way of doing it?

Remove master cylinder cap, & put a piece of polythene over the reservoir before replacing the cap. It helps to keep the fluid in  the system while you replace the flexi pipe. 

[tidla]

Clamp the old flex pipe. Cut the pipe below the clamp and remove the rest. Crack the steel to flex joint union and nip back up.

Clamp the new pipe, when your all ready, a quick change over.

[r1]

thanks andy and tidla.

[feeutfo]

Was pondering this, as I intend fitting goodridge braided lines. And envisaged an assistant applying light pressure via the brake pedal in addition to the above, to keep the air out as much as possible.
 

How successful that might be I'm not sure.

[Andy B]

...... And envisaged an assistant applying light pressure via the brake pedal in addition to the above, to keep the air out as much as possible.
 

How successful that might be I'm not sure.

Potentially cause far more problems than you're trying to prevent. Just use the polythene sheet between the cap & master cylinder, and replace the flexi ...... never had a problem. 

[feeutfo]

Ok, but my concern was more air being drawn in, as the fluid drips out of the open pipe from below the servo. Rather than the vacume effect of gravity pulling the fluid through the entire system.

Or is the brake pipe bore size not really big enough and the fluid will stay put, as I hope it will...? Your reply suggests it will be fine. (just to be clear)

[Andy B]

Ok, but my concern was more air being drawn in, as the fluid drips out of the open pipe from below the servo. Rather than the vacume effect of gravity pulling the fluid through the entire system.

Or is the brake pipe bore size not really big enough and the fluid will stay put, as I hope it will...? Your reply suggests it will be fine. (just to be clear)

Without the polythene sheet fluid will just drain through ...... that's why you use the poythene sheet, you're creating a partial vacuum. It's still a good idea to get a move on though. 

Anyway, unless you drained the complete reservoir, there'd be no air drawn into the system. 

[amba]

Replaced my front flexy pipes a while ago and had no issues.

As suggested bit of clingfilm under the reservoir cap first then replace cal.Undo end to caliper first and I kept pipe as close to vertical as posible avoiding spillage,then undone flexy to brake line and drained fluid from flexy into jar.Replaced both crush washers and refitted new flexy pipe.When fitted ,connected easibleed to brake nipple and bleed through after removing plastic from reservoir and topped back up.Repeated proceedure on opposite side and again bleed through.

Had no problems and brakes worked fine afterwards.Intersting to know what improvement would be gain by fitting the Goodrich braided pipes in place of the stock.

[feeutfo]

Not sure, but those that have braided lines say it improves feel and braking performance.


I know them to make a marked improvent on bikes, as the flexi hose runs all the way from the caliper to the master cylinder on the Handel bar. So there's scope for stock rubber lines to balloon out, ESP as they age.

A car is different as there's only a fraction of the brake line in Flexi, so I don't expect to see the same level of performance improvement. But as said, those that have them on a car say its worthwhile, so it's on the jobs list. Has. Even for a while tbh.