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Author Topic: Fusing the powersounder  (Read 2383 times)

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joff

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #15 on: 02 June 2010, 19:43:30 »

After reading all of this I asked at the dealers today how much a new one is on trade card and the man he said £55.97 part number 9194455 does this sound correct.
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feeutfo

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #16 on: 02 June 2010, 21:34:01 »

Quote
After reading all of this I asked at the dealers today how much a new one is on trade card and the man he said £55.97 part number 9194455 does this sound correct.
price sounds about right from what i've read on here, not sure on the part no.

so, best place for the fuse then Dave?   ;D


cant do any harm surely?

« Last Edit: 02 June 2010, 21:34:51 by chrisgixer »
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Dave DND

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #17 on: 02 June 2010, 22:47:08 »

Quote
Quote
After reading all of this I asked at the dealers today how much a new one is on trade card and the man he said £55.97 part number 9194455 does this sound correct.
price sounds about right from what i've read on here, not sure on the part no.

so, best place for the fuse then Dave?   ;D


cant do any harm surely?


Agreed, price sounds about right, but I cannot confirm part number either.

 :-/

Best place for the fuse? In the packet it came in, it does not need one, and would not benefit from one.

 ::)

And if you think that it would not cause any harm by fitting one, well actually, it might !! The thatcham category one alarm status as required by your insurance company would be null and void if an in line fuse was fitted, or if the alarm was tampered with in any such way, as this would contravine the very strict installation specifications.

 ;)
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VXL V6

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #18 on: 02 June 2010, 22:56:30 »

Quote
[
Best place for the fuse? In the packet it came in, it does not need one, and would not benefit from one.

 ::)

And if you think that it would not cause any harm by fitting one, well actually, it might !! The thatcham category one alarm status as required by your insurance company would be null and void if an in line fuse was fitted, or if the alarm was tampered with in any such way, as this would contravine the very strict installation specifications.

 ;)

...and thereby lies the problem of just removing it... the vehicle is insured as having the standard VX alarm setup and knowing how much insurance companies like to wriggle out of things it's feasable that should the car be stolen / recovered and the vehicle is checked thoroughly the missing powersounder could be noted......

Tempted to remove the powersounder, open it and unsolder and remove all the components except the loom connector, then put it all back in place so it looks complete  ;D
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Dave DND

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #19 on: 02 June 2010, 23:04:41 »

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Tempted to remove the powersounder, open it and unsolder and remove all the components except the loom connector, then put it all back in place so it looks complete   

Dont be silly !! You would get found out very quickly if the car went up in flames and it wasn`t the powersounder that caused it !!

 :P ;D
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VXL V6

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #20 on: 02 June 2010, 23:09:25 »

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Quote
Tempted to remove the powersounder, open it and unsolder and remove all the components except the loom connector, then put it all back in place so it looks complete   

Dont be silly !! You would get found out very quickly if the car went up in flames and it wasn`t the powersounder that caused it !!

 :P ;D

 ;D

Well I could sell the batteries to anyone who needed to 'release the value of their automotive asset' in these hard recession times.....  ::)

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Dave DND

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #21 on: 02 June 2010, 23:38:22 »

 ;D ;D ;D

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Welung666

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #22 on: 03 June 2010, 06:59:53 »

When replacing batteries in a power sounder I have fitted these...



...externally.

Easy to test and replace and if they leak they won't leak on the PCB!
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Dave DND

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #23 on: 03 June 2010, 07:39:42 »

Quote
When replacing batteries in a power sounder I have fitted these...



...externally.

Easy to test and replace and if they leak they won't leak on the PCB!

Although I can see the logic in what you are doing, sadly that would not be sufficient to satisfy the insurance company with regards to keeping the alarm within spec.

Basically, and in laymans terms, the alarm powersounder criteria is that the siren must have an internal and uninterruptable power supply that is capable of sustaining the alarm sounder for a period of not less than five minutes, and that during that five minutes of operation, it should not be possible to deactivate the siren with or without the use of tools as part of its attack test specification.

But I must confess to really liking the idea of using something a bit beefier, plug in, commercially available and of a design not so prone to failure. How about something like small telephone or radio control car batteries fitted inside the sounder on a similar plug type arrangement? Food for thought?

 :-?
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Welung666

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Re: Fusing the powersounder
« Reply #24 on: 03 June 2010, 09:24:44 »

First time I tried I used 2 x 3.6v pack like above, ran them in series and they fitted inside the sounder itself (that's why I went for the 2 due to size). If I could find a smaller 7.2v pack I may go back to inside the sounder itself. As for removing them in an alarm state, Mr. T. Hief would have to know they were there and remove half the skuttle to get at them ;) ;D ;D
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