Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Lizzie Zoom on 23 June 2021, 20:04:35
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So today it happened. After driving the car half the day, it suddenly would not re-start after stopping at my daughters.
Called the AA, who arrived after 20 minutes. A very experienced older chap carried out all the usual initial checks, then connected the diagnostics box, which showed "no fault", but that quickly led him to identify that the crank sensor was not telling the engine it was turning, confirmed by the fact that even when turning the engine the rev counter did not move.
The only sensor he had was for a Corsa, and of course it was now the evening with the main dealer shut!
So I am about to order a new crank sensor, but I have read in another post - https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=148352.0
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I note the option to take the part number off the old sensor, but I do not want to get under the car more than twice ::) ;D ;D ;D
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EPC is frequently wrong, so don't trust your dealer. As you have researched, you need to go in with the PN.
You could check your connector, which will identify it. Most V6's actually take the cheaper sensor, but not all.
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EPC is frequently wrong, so don't trust your dealer. As you have researched, you need to go in with the PN.
You could check your connector, which will identify it. Most V6's actually take the cheaper sensor, but not all.
You could use your phone to take a photo of the sensor and/or the connector without dismantling anything, or struggling to get under the car. Take enough photos until you can definitively identify the part you need.
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Thanks TB and Nick. Will take on board your suggestions :y :y
The only question Nick is the sensor is next to the oil filter housing? ???
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Thanks TB and Nick. Will take on board your suggestions :y :y
The only question Nick is the sensor is next to the oil filter housing? ???
It's just above the filter.
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I have re-read the previously quoted thread and noted the part number for the 3.2 V6 is shown as 90549743, but elsewhere I have found part number is quoted as 90540743.
Which one is it for an engine number of 08789xxx please? ???
:y
Autodoc have a BOSCH sensor with the part no 90540743 for £40.80. Does that sound ok please,
Not forgetting the points made about caution in the quoted thread?
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Thanks TB and Nick. Will take on board your suggestions :y :y
The only question Nick is the sensor is next to the oil filter housing? ???
It's just above the filter.
Thanks Nick :y
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Only buy a genuine sensor from a genuine VX dealer that you genuinely have to walk in to.
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Only buy a genuine sensor from a genuine VX dealer that you genuinely have to walk in to.
I had exactly your symptoms recently with my 2.6, so I fitted a brand new genuine VX crank sensor 90540743 that matched the Bosch no of the faulty one I removed (the replacement I had previously bought from Vauxhall), but after fitting it, it fired up and ran for a short period, but then it refused to start again ( just cranked). Ended up fitting a known used genuine Bosch sensor off one of my 3.2 breakers (which was obviously a previous replacement as I could get it off in one piece) and it has been fine since.
Although I agree totally with the sentiment about getting a genuine VX from a VX dealership, this isn't 100% foolproof as I found out! The same genuine Bosch marketed product is part no 0 261 210 131 if that helps.
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I have re-read the previously quoted thread and noted the part number for the 3.2 V6 is shown as 90549743, but elsewhere I have found part number is quoted as 90540743.
Which one is it for an engine number of 08789xxx please? ???
:y
I think the quoted GM part no 90549743 was a typo and definitely incorrect.
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As suggested before, you were unlucky.
Also, from an earlier thread on the subject, there's only one crank sensor option for the 2.6/3.2.
You might also be able to get a genuine one from the States from an '01 Catera 3.0*
* the last model year Catera is electronically the same as the 2.6/3.2 ie DBW. ;)
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I have re-read the previously quoted thread and noted the part number for the 3.2 V6 is shown as 90549743, but elsewhere I have found part number is quoted as 90540743.
Which one is it for an engine number of 08789xxx please? ???
:y
I think the quoted GM part no 90549743 was a typo and definitely incorrect.
Thanks johnnydog for both of your posts and I am buying, hopefully, both a Bosch and Vx sensor for belt and braces!!
The part No, with '9' in it I thought was suspicious, so thanks for clearing that up. :y :y
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Only buy a genuine sensor from a genuine VX dealer that you genuinely have to walk in to.
Thanks DG. Yes, I am going down the route of getting that and a Bosch for luck! :D :D :y
UPDATE : My Vx dealer has just informed me that part no. 90540743 is now discontinued so no longer available. :( :(
I think this is going to be a problem for all Omega Vx parts now :'( :'(
So back to the Bosch alternative.
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Bloody cars!!!
Why do they do this to us?!
Went to my daughters today expecting to get the AA to tow my car back to my address, but on the off chance I turned the ignition and she fired up straight away with the rev counter again confirming it recognised the engine turning!! Great, but what will happen next?
Obviously this morning the engine was cold, and even the AA guy said she may start as she did. But why? Was it anything to do with filling the tank two hours before she ceased to re-start? :o :o :( :(
I am still buying the Autodoc Bosch sensor, and as a matter of research to get ready for replacing it as necessary, and beyond understanding the OOF thread I quoted, I have delved around at the top back end of the engine and managed to pull up the connector in my photo below. I take it this is the crank sensor connector mentioned in the article with the photo, so at least I know how to successfully reach this plug for any further work 8) ;D ;D ;)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJK1wNV4/Crank-Sensor-Plug.jpg)
But how long before she will not start again? ::) ::) ::)
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She will wait for the most awkward moment and leave you stranded in the middle of a huge junction, well mine did anyway ;D Mine would restart once stone cold again
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Could also be a failing fuel pump.
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Could also be a failing fuel pump.
Yes, but the AA guy checked the fuel supply thoroughly and found fuel was definitely getting through every time he asked me repeatedly to turn on the ignition. Also his tech check found nothing wrong in that respect.
But as omegod points out, whatever it is - the crank sensor must still be favourite and will be replaced when it arrives - it could well leave me stranded in a very bad place! ::) ::) :o ;)
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A failing fuel pump can cause poor starting, especially at lower tank levels.
I agree that the crank sensor is a likely culprit, just be mindful that it may not be the only issue.
Neither give codes, and a weak pump will still deliver some fuel to the rail.
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A faulty MAF can give similar symptoms.
All these could be posts are why diagnosis is done with live data. Anything else is a guess.
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A faulty MAF can give similar symptoms.
All these could be posts are why diagnosis is done with live data. Anything else is a guess.
Yes, indeed, and that is why I must not forget what the engines tech readings gave the very experienced AA guy, with only the crank sensor as the leading culprit as the machine, nor rev counter, did not show the engine turning even when being turned over on the key.
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You cannot tell which sensor it is just from the loom connector. There are three sensor variants, one with a rectangular sided plug and two with oval sided plugs, in use on the sensor tails. All three sensors may fit the engine however they have different electrical resistances.
As your engine is a Y32SE V6 then the sensor required will be Bosch 0261210131 aka GM# 90540743. Just make sure that wherever it comes from it's a Bosch part with the Bosch number on it. You could try Autovaux (https://www.autovaux.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=0261210131).
The symptom you have is typical crank sensor failure. Heat eventually kills the sensor and/or the wiring tail and it stops working when hot, let the engine get cold and it works again. It'll likely get worse over time, engine cutting out when decelerating for traffic lights etc. Eventually it may not work at all.
Absent a P0355 fault code it could also be the fuel pump as DG mentioned.
Any replacement sensor needs to be square into the hole in the block. Don't rely on the screw to pull it into position. If the sensor head is not square or the gap to the reluctor ring is incorrect then the sensor won't work reliably.
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Thanks :y :y
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LZ - Do n to believe what your dealer tells you. As previously stated, EPC is incorrect about 75% of the time on V6 crank sensors.
So identify yours. Or be disappointed.
I actually agree with Dr Gollum on this, get a genuine GM one from a bricks and mortar dealer. Partly because of the number of fake Bosch sensors out there, and partly because of our regular, frequent experiences here. All those European sites that are actually the same, but try to look like separate companies, including Autodoc, are probably best avoided if you want genuine items (which you do).
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LZ - Do n to believe what your dealer tells you. As previously stated, EPC is incorrect about 75% of the time on V6 crank sensors.
So identify yours. Or be disappointed.
I actually agree with Dr Gollum on this, get a genuine GM one from a bricks and mortar dealer. Partly because of the number of fake Bosch sensors out there, and partly because of our regular, frequent experiences here. All those European sites that are actually the same, but try to look like separate companies, including Autodoc, are probably best avoided if you want genuine items (which you do).
Thanks TB :y
I will find out if any other Vx dealer has them still ;)
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Yours should be able to if they can be bothered :-X
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15 years ago I bought a Bosch coil pack for my Omega from a Bosch service agent. Struck me that I had a pretty good chance getting a genuine part :)
IIRC it was about half the price of buying from a VX dealer and they had the part in stock.
The place I went to was in Luton & only sold parts, don't know how I found it now :-\
All the searches I have tried come up with indi workshops.
https://www.boschaftermarket.com/gb/en/parts/?pi_url=%2Fpi%2Fserver%2Fen%2FGB%2FBosch-AA%2FAA_WEBSITE_UK_2018%2Fcategory%2Fce_32216725%2Fproduct%2F0261210205%3Fhints%3Dtrue%26categoriesFilter%3D%26selectedCategories%3Dce_32216725#scrolldetail (https://www.boschaftermarket.com/gb/en/parts/?pi_url=%2Fpi%2Fserver%2Fen%2FGB%2FBosch-AA%2FAA_WEBSITE_UK_2018%2Fcategory%2Fce_32216725%2Fproduct%2F0261210205%3Fhints%3Dtrue%26categoriesFilter%3D%26selectedCategories%3Dce_32216725#scrolldetail)
https://www.boschcarservice.com/gb/en/workshop-finder.html?searchLocation=canterbury (https://www.boschcarservice.com/gb/en/workshop-finder.html?searchLocation=canterbury)
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15 years ago I bought a Bosch coil pack for my Omega from a Bosch service agent. Struck me that I had a pretty good chance getting a genuine part :)
IIRC it was about half the price of buying from a VX dealer and they had the part in stock.
The place I went to was in Luton & only sold parts, don't know how I found it now :-\
All the searches I have tried come up with indi workshops.
https://www.boschaftermarket.com/gb/en/parts/?pi_url=%2Fpi%2Fserver%2Fen%2FGB%2FBosch-AA%2FAA_WEBSITE_UK_2018%2Fcategory%2Fce_32216725%2Fproduct%2F0261210205%3Fhints%3Dtrue%26categoriesFilter%3D%26selectedCategories%3Dce_32216725#scrolldetail (https://www.boschaftermarket.com/gb/en/parts/?pi_url=%2Fpi%2Fserver%2Fen%2FGB%2FBosch-AA%2FAA_WEBSITE_UK_2018%2Fcategory%2Fce_32216725%2Fproduct%2F0261210205%3Fhints%3Dtrue%26categoriesFilter%3D%26selectedCategories%3Dce_32216725#scrolldetail)
https://www.boschcarservice.com/gb/en/workshop-finder.html?searchLocation=canterbury (https://www.boschcarservice.com/gb/en/workshop-finder.html?searchLocation=canterbury)
Thanks for that Andy. Nice local link for me to follow up with. :y :y
I have a Bosch one coming, although after the wise feedback I have had I am now still after a genuine Vx one for a belt and braces approach.
I have taken note of DG's fuel pump advice, so if the crank sensors (one of them!!) do not do the triick I am onto that option! ;)
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Yours should be able to if they can be bothered :-X
At my Vx dealer I deal with the parts manager who I have known for years and he has often carried out in depth research to find the genuine parts I need, including sourcing them from Germany. When he says an item is now not available, rightly or wrongly, I believe him.
In this case he gave me a full Opel part number 1238740, product number 30494182, it's code K80 and of course confirmed the Vx number 90540743. The Opel number is being quoted on the Autodoc Bosch sensor, along with the Vx one. But as you all recommend I will continue to hunt for the Vx version, which I may just have found available on this forum!
Whilst writing, DG mentioned the fuel pump; where on the engine is that, as I have never replaced one on an Omega? ??? ???
The Maintenance Guides do not seem to cover it's replacement either. ::) ::) :)
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Its in the petrol tank. Access from under the circular plate on the floor of the boot.
I would bet my months wages its the crank sensor though. Assuming its still on the original one.
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Its in the petrol tank. Access from under the circular plate on the floor of the boot.
I would bet my months wages its the crank sensor though. Assuming its still on the original one.
Thanks for that :y :y
I am hoping it is the crank sensor, but now I know at last where the fuel pump is :D :)
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.............now with the info that the pump is above the fuel tank..................I am suddenly wondering if that does have something to do with the car suddenly not starting only two hours after filling the tank to the top on a warm day.
Just a coincidence? The AA guy, as I said, checked the flow of fuel to the engine and found it all ok. But is it possible that somehow fuel leaked to where the pump is and caused an interruption of supply that triggered an electronic response?
mmmmmmmmmmm??? ??? ???
I will still go for the crank sensor option first though. :)
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.............now with the info that the pump is above the fuel tank..................I am suddenly wondering if that does have something to do with the car suddenly not starting only two hours after filling the tank to the top on a warm day.
Just a coincidence? The AA guy, as I said, checked the flow of fuel to the engine and found it all ok. But is it possible that somehow fuel leaked to where the pump is and caused an interruption of supply that triggered an electronic response?
mmmmmmmmmmm??? ??? ???
I will still go for the crank sensor option first though. :)
The fuel pump is inside the tank and immersed in the fuel. That helps to keep it cool, and dampen the noise it makes.
They tend to show symptoms of failure when the fuel level is low, especially if kept that way. These symptoms are exacerbated by shallow, flat tanks like Omega estates(most modern cars really) rather than the deep, upright tank in an Omega saloon.
The symptoms you listed in your first post aren't really those of a failing fuel pump. Those tend to be: poor starting when the level is low and the car has stood for sometime; extended cranking; blown fuses; needing to give the tank a thump to jolt the pump into working; all of those symptoms becoming increasingly common rather than intermittent.
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.............now with the info that the pump is above the fuel tank..................I am suddenly wondering if that does have something to do with the car suddenly not starting only two hours after filling the tank to the top on a warm day.
Just a coincidence? The AA guy, as I said, checked the flow of fuel to the engine and found it all ok. But is it possible that somehow fuel leaked to where the pump is and caused an interruption of supply that triggered an electronic response?
mmmmmmmmmmm??? ??? ???
I will still go for the crank sensor option first though. :)
The fuel pump is inside the tank and immersed in the fuel. That helps to keep it cool, and dampen the noise it makes.
They tend to show symptoms of failure when the fuel level is low, especially if kept that way. These symptoms are exacerbated by shallow, flat tanks like Omega estates(most modern cars really) rather than the deep, upright tank in an Omega saloon.
The symptoms you listed in your first post aren't really those of a failing fuel pump. Those tend to be: poor starting when the level is low and the car has stood for sometime; extended cranking; blown fuses; needing to give the tank a thump to jolt the pump into working; all of those symptoms becoming increasingly common rather than intermittent.
Thanks Nick. Great info for me :y :y
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I cannot prove the correlation between crank sensor failure and fuel pump failure, but each time I have needed to replace one, the other was within a month.
It could be that the extra cranking from the failing pump hammers the crank sensor, or it could be the other way around.
Once the engine fires, the fuel delivery system is self sufficient and I suspect that the crank sensor only does anything during cranking, ie once the engine fires it is done... Certainly, turning the key back from position 2 kills fuel and ignition so it doesn't stop the engine from running once started. :-\
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I take it you're getting you're crank sensor from Chris (Shackeng)?
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I take it you're getting you're crank sensor from Chris (Shackeng)?
I was hoping so, but I have just found out it has already been sold. :)
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Easy enough to check for fuel pressure using the Schrader valve at the back of the plenum, watch your eyes though as it doesn't half sting ::) ;D
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Easy enough to check for fuel pressure using the Schrader valve at the back of the plenum, watch your eyes though as it doesn't half sting ::) ;D
Ah, thanks, but I believe the AA guy checked that with fuel squirting him well! ;D ;D ;D ;)
He also soaked his hands well in fuel when he unbolted the fuel lines from the plenum and I had to turn the ignition on - about 6 times! ;D ;D ;D :)
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Pressing the valve will confirm the presence of fuel and if there's any notable pressure. A gauge is necessary to confirm that some pressure is enough pressure.
Return flow to the tank is the final piece of the puzzle. TIS should have the full tolerances for pressures an flow rates.
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Just had to go into town. The engine started as normal and performed as expected. Got up to full temperature by the time I got into town.
Went to do what I needed to, returned to the still warm car and it fired up again without any difficulty, taking me back home as usual.
So this is obviously, as many have said, an intermittent fault that will no doubt come back when I least want it.
The sooner I get the replacement sensor the better. My nerves cannot stand not knowing my vehicle can be relied on to start or not! ::) ::)
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In some ways whether it will start or not is the least of your problems.When mine failed[the first time] I was negotiating a roundabout,luckily I was carrying enough speed to coast off the roundabout onto one of the exits and a few yards along the road away from the roundabout.I say the first time because the replacement sensor-a genuine GM one-failed in about 600 miles.
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Its in the petrol tank. Access from under the circular plate on the floor of the boot.
I would bet my months wages its the crank sensor though. Assuming its still on the original one.
Thanks for that :y :y
I am hoping it is the crank sensor, but now I know at last where the fuel pump is :D :)
And as if by magic, a thread has appeared in the help section with pics of this very thing. :)
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=148430.0
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Its in the petrol tank. Access from under the circular plate on the floor of the boot.
I would bet my months wages its the crank sensor though. Assuming its still on the original one.
Thanks for that :y :y
I am hoping it is the crank sensor, but now I know at last where the fuel pump is :D :)
And as if by magic, a thread has appeared in the help section with pics of this very thing. :)
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=148430.0
Yes, thanks that really has cheered me up! ;D ;D ;D ;D
I just hope my recent troubles have nothing to do with something like that ::) ::) :)
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In some ways whether it will start or not is the least of your problems.When mine failed[the first time] I was negotiating a roundabout,luckily I was carrying enough speed to coast off the roundabout onto one of the exits and a few yards along the road away from the roundabout.I say the first time because the replacement sensor-a genuine GM one-failed in about 600 miles.
At the moment Baza I have only been able to source the Bosch product, but I have noted what others have said about the Vx one, which I would still fit if I can get hold of one in time! ::) ::)
Your case does though prove that even the genuine replacement part can fail all too quickly ;)
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At the moment Baza I have only been able to source the Bosch product, but I have noted what others have said about the Vx one, which I would still fit if I can get hold of one in time! ::) ::)
Your case does though prove that even the genuine replacement part can fail all too quickly ;)
The reasons for insisting on genuine are to increase the likelihood of getting a high quality part and that the return procedure is better if it does fail quickly. I would like to suggest it helps to get the correct part when there's a choice, but sadly that often isn't the case.
An important thing to consider for genuine Omega parts is how long have they been in stock? That shouldn't affect things like sensors, but can be a real problem for rubber parts like seals, hoses and belts.
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At the moment Baza I have only been able to source the Bosch product, but I have noted what others have said about the Vx one, which I would still fit if I can get hold of one in time! ::) ::)
Your case does though prove that even the genuine replacement part can fail all too quickly ;)
The reasons for insisting on genuine are to increase the likelihood of getting a high quality part and that the return procedure is better if it does fail quickly. I would like to suggest it helps to get the correct part when there's a choice, but sadly that often isn't the case.
An important thing to consider for genuine Omega parts is how long have they been in stock? That shouldn't affect things like sensors, but can be a real problem for rubber parts like seals, hoses and belts.
And that is my dilemma at the moment. I have a Bosch sensor, that seems all genuine, coming through in the post but, so far, I cannot find a new Vx version. Yet although the car is operating as usual at the moment, travelling all around town today, starting and being re-started a few times, I recognise what others have warned me of. What do I do? Replace with the Bosch as soon as it arrives, or gamble by carrying on regardless until, if and when, I can find the Vx part?
Decisions, decisions, and I do not really want to do the job more than once!! ::) ::) ;)
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As for finding that elusive Vx sensor, and one that is not affected by time in storage as Nick rightly points out, as my Vx dealer said, it is now a long time since the last Omega was built.
That is 18 years ago yesterday, the 25th June 2003, according to my dealers system information, so All genuine Vx Omega parts are now getting like hens teeth; increasingly very rare and if still available, more and more expensive! :'( :'(
Now where is my stash of money for an electric luxury car……….?! ;D ;D ;)
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Please don't misunderstand my previous post I was in no way advocating not buying a genuine GM one[if they can still be had]as when my replacement one packed in I bought yet another GM one.As has been said you're more likely to get a reliable one from a genuine dealership.It is a dilemma indeed for you,as I pointed out it's not so much if it doesn't start but rather if it packs up either when you're on the move-a motorway for example-or crawling along in traffic in the middle of a town.Changing one is easy enough it's only one bolt[near the oil filter]and the electrical plug behind the passenger side head.Don't bother trying to feed the wiring between the manifold and block[as per the original route]but route the wires as far away from the exhaust as possible-I have mine tie wrapped loosely to the brake pipes near the inner wing.Being built like a biro refill I can actually change one while the car is stood on its wheels!
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Lizzie,
if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ::) ) to acquire a replacement.
There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.
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Lizzie,
if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ::) ) to acquire a replacement.
There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.
The genuine sensor IS a Bosch sensor. Bosch make it then GM stick it in a GM box and add their mark up.
Knock off copies probably copy the Bosch logo on the plastic moulding.
The crank sensor is a very simple device - a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet. What is difficult is making something dimensionally accurate (the tip of the sensor needs to be close, but not too close, to the teeth on the ring on the back of the crankshaft) and making something that can cope with the heat (magnets become non magnetic when they are hot and the insulation becomes brittle - especially where GM ran the cable too close to the exhaust manifold).
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Lizzie,
if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ::) ) to acquire a replacement.
There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.
The genuine sensor IS a Bosch sensor. Bosch make it then GM stick it in a GM box and add their mark up.
Knock off copies probably copy the Bosch logo on the plastic moulding.
The crank sensor is a very simple device - a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet. What is difficult is making something dimensionally accurate (the tip of the sensor needs to be close, but not too close, to the teeth on the ring on the back of the crankshaft) and making something that can cope with the heat (magnets become non magnetic when they are hot and the insulation becomes brittle - especially where GM ran the cable too close to the exhaust manifold).
I know, and agree with all that. Hence my suggestion that she try the one she has coming, rather than worry about buying another one that's going to be better because it's genuine.
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Lizzie,
if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ::) ) to acquire a replacement.
There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.
The genuine sensor IS a Bosch sensor. Bosch make it then GM stick it in a GM box and add their mark up.
Knock off copies probably copy the Bosch logo on the plastic moulding.
The crank sensor is a very simple device - a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet. What is difficult is making something dimensionally accurate (the tip of the sensor needs to be close, but not too close, to the teeth on the ring on the back of the crankshaft) and making something that can cope with the heat (magnets become non magnetic when they are hot and the insulation becomes brittle - especially where GM ran the cable too close to the exhaust manifold).
I know, and agree with all that. Hence my suggestion that she try the one she has coming, rather than worry about buying another one that's going to be better because it's genuine.
:y
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They heat age from use, not from sitting on a shelf ;D
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Please don't misunderstand my previous post I was in no way advocating not buying a genuine GM one[if they can still be had]as when my replacement one packed in I bought yet another GM one.As has been said you're more likely to get a reliable one from a genuine dealership.It is a dilemma indeed for you,as I pointed out it's not so much if it doesn't start but rather if it packs up either when you're on the move-a motorway for example-or crawling along in traffic in the middle of a town.Changing one is easy enough it's only one bolt[near the oil filter]and the electrical plug behind the passenger side head.Don't bother trying to feed the wiring between the manifold and block[as per the original route]but route the wires as far away from the exhaust as possible-I have mine tie wrapped loosely to the brake pipes near the inner wing.Being built like a biro refill I can actually change one while the car is stood on its wheels!
Thanks Baza :y :y
Yes, all points noted and agreed with and I am going to route the wire as you suggest and in line with the Maintenance Guide thread.
As for the Vx part...................who knows at the moment! I cannot even get a breakers part even if I wanted one, which I have researched in my efforts to get a brand new one ::) ::) ;)
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Lizzie,
if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ::) ) to acquire a replacement.
There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.
Thanks Nick :y :y
Yes it is claimed by the supplier that the Bosch one is genuine and they quote not only the Opel part number but the Vx one as well.
I cannot do anymore than fit it and see what happens; it must be better than living in the fear of the existing sensor failing as I am driving, as Baza has pointed out with an example of it!
Is it really easy to fit the sensor in it's position above the oil filter? Do I need to remove the filter to get to it please? ??? ???
:)
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Thanks Nick :y :y
Yes it is claimed by the supplier that the Bosch one is genuine and they quote not only the Opel part number but the Vx one as well.
I cannot do anymore than fit it and see what happens; it must be better than living in the fear of the existing sensor failing as I am driving, as Baza has pointed out with an example of it!
Is it really easy to fit the sensor in it's position above the oil filter? Do I need to remove the filter to get to it please? ??? ???
:)
It's held in with one bolt, remove that and pull the sensor out of its hole. If you park the NSF wheel on a curb, with full righthand lock applied, you can see what you need. Or you could shine a bright light down the space between the back of the downpipe and inner wing for a top down view. If you have small hands and arms you can do the job from above.
Removing the oil filter is just making work for yourself, especially if it's afflicted with the cartridge style filter.
The wire is run up and around the back of the block along with the oil cooler pipes and through all the gubbins that is in the way. Route the replacement towards the inner wing and up, cable tieing it in place.
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Thanks Nick :y :y
Yes it is claimed by the supplier that the Bosch one is genuine and they quote not only the Opel part number but the Vx one as well.
I cannot do anymore than fit it and see what happens; it must be better than living in the fear of the existing sensor failing as I am driving, as Baza has pointed out with an example of it!
Is it really easy to fit the sensor in it's position above the oil filter? Do I need to remove the filter to get to it please? ??? ???
:)
It's held in with one bolt, remove that and pull the sensor out of its hole. If you park the NSF wheel on a curb, with full righthand lock applied, you can see what you need. Or you could shine a bright light down the space between the back of the downpipe and inner wing for a top down view. If you have small hands and arms you can do the job from above.
Removing the oil filter is just making work for yourself, especially if it's afflicted with the cartridge style filter.
The wire is run up and around the back of the block along with the oil cooler pipes and through all the gubbins that is in the way. Route the replacement towards the inner wing and up, cable tieing it in place.
Many thanks Nick :-* :-* :y
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If going for a Bosch marked one, try to get it from a local Bosch supplier, not an online dodgy store where its actually difficult to even get info on where the company are based. Those sorts of places are where you get the fake ones ;)
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If going for a Bosch marked one, try to get it from a local Bosch supplier, not an online dodgy store where its actually difficult to even get info on where the company are based. Those sorts of places are where you get the fake ones ;)
Thanks TB. Noted. :y :y
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Quoting the genuine part number is no guarantee of quality. It merely implies that the component is of equivalence to the factory part.
Genuine Bosch or Siemens etc should be of equivalent specification to the factory supplied/fitted parts. This isn't always the case.
And as you drop down the price range, you will usually find less and less equivalency, the last standard to go being the size and shape. That doesn't stop the OE part number from being quoted... Caveat Emptor and all that.
Only buying from physical places should help minimise any short comings because they know you can turn up in person if it goes wrong.
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I have just noted that I have ordered a Bosch Crankshaft Pulse Sensor.
Whilst going through numerous online sites, I have seen that other are shown as RPM ones.
What the hell is the difference?
I have ordered mine using all the correct reference numbers, so is there anything for me to worry about please?
This is beginning to get like a stupid nightmare!! :o :o :o
As for Autodoc, I have gone to Trust Pilot and found there is no complaint about the quality of parts (aspart from one about a substition), but terrible comments about the length of time to receive par!! ::) ::)ts ordered!!
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..............so, after all that, can I ask if anyone can recommend a genuine parts supplier for the Bosch part that has a great track record on here for delivery / quality of part please? ??? ??? ;)
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I have now found another online site that has far better reviews ; sparepartstore24.uk.com ; that has better reviews and has the Bosch version in stock for s sensible price.
Any views please on this company?
I may well order the part from them also and see which one arrives first to fit. The I will return the slowest arriving part! :D :D ;)
UPDATE: I have now made the decision to order the part from that company as well. That way I can compare the 'genuine' quality of the product, and have the item one way or another as quick as possible. The losing part will be returned.
Win win I hope! ;D ;D ;D ;)
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Your best course of action (given the amount of over thinking you are applying to this) would be to take it in to Vauxhall and have them supply and fit the correct sensor.
That way, regardless of what they fit, if it lasts less tgan a year, then they're obliged to replace it.
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Stop pissing around online. Find a local Bosch distributor, and ask them :)
Autodoc implied something was genuine to me, but it was a cheap Chinese clone part. Thats why I know its quite hard to find an address for them, I have looked ;).
Now for most parts, it is at most an inconvenience and a bit of wasted cash, so does it really matter? But for a V6 crank sensor, it becomes a major inconvenience, depending where it lets you down.
Both of my "terminal" v6 crank sensor failures had different symptoms. The first one, in France, would allow me to do 2 - 4 miles before failing again, and needing to cool down. Sadly, Dijon to Brackley was too far to nurse it, so that was a major PITA to et the car repatriated. The 2nd was a complete failure at the NEC, and it just wouldn't start. Fortunately, I carried a spare after France, so quickly changed it and drove home. Had I not had one, that would have been a relay recovery.
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Your best course of action (given the amount of over thinking you are applying to this) would be to take it in to Vauxhall and have them supply and fit the correct sensor.
That way, regardless of what they fit, if it lasts less tgan a year, then they're obliged to replace it.
But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
No, I'll do it myself! :D :D ;)
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Stop pissing around online. Find a local Bosch distributor, and ask them :)
Autodoc implied something was genuine to me, but it was a cheap Chinese clone part. Thats why I know its quite hard to find an address for them, I have looked ;).
Now for most parts, it is at most an inconvenience and a bit of wasted cash, so does it really matter? But for a V6 crank sensor, it becomes a major inconvenience, depending where it lets you down.
Both of my "terminal" v6 crank sensor failures had different symptoms. The first one, in France, would allow me to do 2 - 4 miles before failing again, and needing to cool down. Sadly, Dijon to Brackley was too far to nurse it, so that was a major PITA to et the car repatriated. The 2nd was a complete failure at the NEC, and it just wouldn't start. Fortunately, I carried a spare after France, so quickly changed it and drove home. Had I not had one, that would have been a relay recovery.
I am following up the leads given to me by Andy H, but so far I have not made contact. ;)
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I am following up the leads given to me by Andy H, but so far I have not made contact. ;)
Why not try it the old fashioned way?
Look in your yellow pages for motor factors, and if the adverts don't claim to be Bosch dealers phone and ask them. That might cost you a few quid more than buying online from Sid's Carparts and Beauty Supplies online, but it's less of a gamble.
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I am following up the leads given to me by Andy H, but so far I have not made contact. ;)
Why not try it the old fashioned way?
Look in your yellow pages for motor factors, and if the adverts don't claim to be Bosch dealers phone and ask them. That might cost you a few quid more than buying online from Sid's Carparts and Beauty Supplies online, but it's less of a gamble.
I am trying all approaches at the same time, and have a Canterbury number for a Bosch dealer to phone tomorrow :y :y
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Your best course of action (given the amount of over thinking you are applying to this) would be to take it in to Vauxhall and have them supply and fit the correct sensor.
That way, regardless of what they fit, if it lasts less tgan a year, then they're obliged to replace it.
But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
No, I'll do it myself! :D :D ;)
You completely missed my point.
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
But if they supply a hookie sensor then they get to keep replacing it until it works long enough to last their liability period. ;)
Not to mention the time saving we spend smacking our heads against the wall...
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
Yep, that is what I now think after asking questions about doing the work. My dealer sometimes worries me when they come up with prices - two hours work they reckoned - they are having a giraffe!! ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;)
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
But if they supply a hookie sensor then they get to keep replacing it until it works long enough to last their liability period. ;)
Not to mention the time saving we spend smacking our heads against the wall...
Yes, thanks DG, I do understand that but no way is it going into their garage on the bassis of a quote like that! They cannot know what they are talking about, which is now common when it comes to some issues with our out of production, 'old' cars! ::) ::) ;)
I can and will do the job myself once I get the sensor, one way or another ;D ;D ;D :)
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Just cancelled the online order with sparepartstore24.co.uk after I did some checking of the confirmatory order details and found they have really the same name as Autodoc based in Germany The buggers!!! >:( >:(
Yep, I see what you mean TB, along with others! ::) ::) ;)
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
Yep, that is what I now think after asking questions about doing the work. My dealer sometimes worries me when they come up with prices - two hours work they reckoned - they are having a giraffe!! ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;)
Thinking about it, I should have offered to do it for £100 with a free coffee while you wait....
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
But if they supply a hookie sensor then they get to keep replacing it until it works long enough to last their liability period. ;)
Not to mention the time saving we spend smacking our heads against the wall...
Yes, thanks DG, I do understand that but no way is it going into their garage on the bassis of a quote like that! They cannot know what they are talking about, which is now common when it comes to some issues with our out of production, 'old' cars! ::) ::) ;)
I can and will do the job myself once I get the sensor, one way or another ;D ;D ;D :)
Go in there tomorrow morning. Ask to speak to the Workshop foreman. Show him the quote, then show him the guide, then ask the book time. Then ask them for a fresh quote.
It should halve the original quote as a minimum. The last Crank senosr I bought was around £78 inc. Add a the book time in labour and you should be around the £110-120 mark.
This removes all responsibility for the sensor supplied and warranties the part and labour for a year.
If it lasts a year, then happy days. If it doesn't, then you take it back and they fix it FOC.
In your shoes, this is what I would do and not worry about it.
Personally, in my shoes, I would seek out a genuine sensor from a genuine source. They're not made to order so there will be some in stock somewhere. That engine is used in no end of GM product.
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
Yep, that is what I now think after asking questions about doing the work. My dealer sometimes worries me when they come up with prices - two hours work they reckoned - they are having a giraffe!! ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;)
Thinking about it, I should have offered to do it for £100 with a free coffee while you wait....
Would you want the liability? :D
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
Yep, that is what I now think after asking questions about doing the work. My dealer sometimes worries me when they come up with prices - two hours work they reckoned - they are having a giraffe!! ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;)
Thinking about it, I should have offered to do it for £100 with a free coffee while you wait....
Would you want the liability? :D
For the work? Sure.
Where's my liability for a customer supplied part?
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Good point, well made :y
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
But if they supply a hookie sensor then they get to keep replacing it until it works long enough to last their liability period. ;)
Not to mention the time saving we spend smacking our heads against the wall...
Yes, thanks DG, I do understand that but no way is it going into their garage on the bassis of a quote like that! They cannot know what they are talking about, which is now common when it comes to some issues with our out of production, 'old' cars! ::) ::) ;)
I can and will do the job myself once I get the sensor, one way or another ;D ;D ;D :)
Go in there tomorrow morning. Ask to speak to the Workshop foreman. Show him the quote, then show him the guide, then ask the book time. Then ask them for a fresh quote.
It should halve the original quote as a minimum. The last Crank senosr I bought was around £78 inc. Add a the book time in labour and you should be around the £110-120 mark.
This removes all responsibility for the sensor supplied and warranties the part and labour for a year.
If it lasts a year, then happy days. If it doesn't, then you take it back and they fix it FOC.
In your shoes, this is what I would do and not worry about it.
Personally, in my shoes, I would seek out a genuine sensor from a genuine source. They're not made to order so there will be some in stock somewhere. That engine is used in no end of GM product.
I agree with everything you say DG, but I do nort want to pay even £100 for work I can well do myself. The OOF guide, plus the help given in this thread, arms me with everything I need. As said by Nick, the "genuine" Vx part was made by Bosch anyway, and I have been trying to source one for two days now without success. Indeed the Bosch one maybe freely available online which, for back up sake, I have ordered, but I have yet to find a local supplier of Bosch who can supply this part. I am running out of options, but will be trying again when certain dealers are open again.
I have followed up on the lead given to me by Andy H for a dealer in Canterbury, but a closer source maybe in hand more locally, if they have this exact Omega compatible part. Tomorrow I will find out, but that is another day :D :D :)
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But, as said, they cannot supply the Vx sensor.
But they have quoted me a price to fit the one I supply............£295!!!.................but maybe cheaper if they take a shorter time doing it! :o :o :o ::) ::) ::)
£295 for ten minutes work! :o
Five minutes if done to dealer standards ;D
Yep, that is what I now think after asking questions about doing the work. My dealer sometimes worries me when they come up with prices - two hours work they reckoned - they are having a giraffe!! ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;)
Thinking about it, I should have offered to do it for £100 with a free coffee while you wait....
Would you want the liability? :D
For the work? Sure.
Where's my liability for a customer supplied part?
.....and that is the position my Vx dealer will take up. They have fitted before non-GM / Vx parts I have supplied in the past, but have explained their guarantee will only cover the work carried out to fit. If the part proves faulty I have to obtain the refund from the supplier, with a limited time scale, and I would have to cover the cost of refitting. Yes, I could take small claims action to recover my losses, but do I want that hassle? Bloody hell no!! :o :o
I will fit the part, whatever it turns out to be, after 51+ years of experience and knowledge carrying out car mechanics. ;D ;D :)
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..................I would still like to know though the difference between the Bosch Pulse sensor and a RPM one? ??? ??? :D ;)
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..................I would still like to know though the difference between the Bosch Pulse sensor and a RPM one? ??? ??? :D ;)
It's a Hall effect sensor, they're both the same thing, surely?
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..................I would still like to know though the difference between the Bosch Pulse sensor and a RPM one? ??? ??? :D ;)
It's a Hall effect sensor, they're both the same thing, surely?
One is a description of how it works, tother a description of what it measures.
Only one person could get six pages out of a crank sensor that could have been fixed with 24-48 hours of failing.
I can't wait for the sequels: Will it turn up?, Will it work?, How do I fit it? And the Autmn special It's failed already... ;D
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..................I would still like to know though the difference between the Bosch Pulse sensor and a RPM one? ??? ??? :D ;)
It's a Hall effect sensor, they're both the same thing, surely?
One is a description of how it works, tother a description of what it measures.
Only one person could get six pages out of a crank sensor.
I can't wait for the sequels: Will it turn up?, Will it work?, How do I fit it? And the Autmn special It's failed already... ;D
Ah, but it is about an Omega part failure and replacemet, not an "Associated Word" thread or anything else not Omega car related, so if it helps me and others with Omega's then why not? ::) ::) ;)
You are being cynical again! ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;)
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All the helpful stuff would fit on a single page.
Omega owners fall into two categories...
1. How fast does it go around a car park?
2. Lifetime owners who already know all the foibles and continue to own them knowing what that means.
There may be a sub category of those who would like to be committed to their Omegas but don't quite appreciate or wish to accept what that really means.
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All the helpful stuff would fit on a single page.
Omega owners fall into two categories...
1. How fast does it go around a car park?
2. Lifetime owners who already know all the foibles and continue to own them knowing what that means.
There may be a sub category of those who would like to be committed to their Omegas but don't quite appreciate or wish to accept what that really means.
« Last Edit: Today at 18:20:07 by Doctor Gollum
Really?? ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I think after owning and paying for / carrying out all maintenance on FIVE Omega's I think I readily accept what Omega ownership means! ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;)
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All the helpful stuff would fit on a single page.
Really?? ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Yes :-X
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...............and just to add the AA mechanic, one since 1989, spoke of all the different sensor issues with various Omega's, Mercs and others, plus how they do and have reached difficult parts of engines to do various work in cars going back to Morris's and Austin's with the classic A series engines that I still love, for about an hour whilst investigating my issue. All could have filled a book! ;D ;D ;D ;D
So, when it comes to the love of cars, and sorting all the issues, or just one, we can spend pages or hours going through all the good, bad and ugly stuff. Great is it not? :D :D :D :)
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The last Crank senosr I bought was around £78 inc.
Was that the expensive type? The last 2 V6's I owned - a 3.0l and a 3.2l - took the more common cheaper one, which last cost me something like £40-50, delivered from my local dealer :)
//TB rubs chin, wondering if his spare sensor is worth a gazillion quid ;D
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Just as an aside to all the debate about a simple object of a crank sensor, might I just add that I have previously bought Bosch boxed Lamdas sensors for my 3.2 from Auto Doc via EBay. They arrived within a few days correctly tagged (AH on one - can't remember the other...) and have been absolutely no problem at all.
Not everyone has problems with EBay new / genuine parts suppliers - in fact I can't remember any problems at all in 18 years of using Ebay. I would happily buy a part from Auto Doc again if I couldn't get one over the counter.
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Just as an aside to all the debate about a simple object of a crank sensor, might I just add that I have previously bought Bosch boxed Lamdas sensors for my 3.2 from Auto Doc via EBay. They arrived within a few days correctly tagged (AH on one - can't remember the other...) and have been absolutely no problem at all.
Not everyone has problems with EBay new / genuine parts suppliers - in fact I can't remember any problems at all in 18 years of using Ebay. I would happily buy a part from Auto Doc again if I couldn't get one over the counter.
This is a wonderfully refreshing post for me :-* :-* :y
Perhaps Autodoc will deliver the genuine Bosch part I ordered and I can just fit it 8) 8) 8) :D
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The last Crank senosr I bought was around £78 inc.
Was that the expensive type? The last 2 V6's I owned - a 3.0l and a 3.2l - took the more common cheaper one, which last cost me something like £40-50, delivered from my local dealer :)
//TB rubs chin, wondering if his spare sensor is worth a gazillion quid ;D
It was 2013, and yes, I practiced what I preached and bought it from a genuine dealer that I genuinely had to walk into.
I also walked out with my first Insignificant (a pre registered new '63 hatch for £12,500) so arguably quite an expensive purchase ;D
Ironically, I never fitted it as the problem turn out to be the ecu coolant temp sensor ;D
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DG, now we can see why this thread has got to 7 pages and not just the one you have advocated! ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
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..................I would still like to know though the difference between the Bosch Pulse sensor and a RPM one? ??? ??? :D ;)
It's a Hall effect sensor, they're both the same thing, surely?
It isn't a Hall effect sensor - they are too slow to pick up the pulses from the toothed/slotted ring on the crankshaft.
The cam position sensor is a Hall effect sensor as it needs to be sensitive to pick up a pulse once every time the camshaft does a revolution (so half crank rpm). Hall effect sensors tend to be 3 wire devices because they need a power supply for an amplifier in the sensor which can then give a clean square wave output. (at 7000 rpm the cam is rotating at 3500 rpm or 58 pulses per second)
The crank sensor (rpm sensor / pulse sensor) is a 'reluctance sensor'. A small permanent magnet is held close to a toothed/slotted wheel (usually 35 teeth with a gap where tooth 36 should be). A coil of wire wrapped around the magnet gives a little pulse each time the magnet moves from a tooth to a slot & vice versa (at 7000 rpm approximately 8000 pulses per second)
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..................I would still like to know though the difference between the Bosch Pulse sensor and a RPM one? ??? ??? :D ;)
It's a Hall effect sensor, they're both the same thing, surely?
It isn't a Hall effect sensor - they are too slow to pick up the pulses from the toothed/slotted ring on the crankshaft.
The cam position sensor is a Hall effect sensor as it needs to be sensitive to pick up a pulse once every time the camshaft does a revolution (so half crank rpm). Hall effect sensors tend to be 3 wire devices because they need a power supply for an amplifier in the sensor which can then give a clean square wave output. (at 7000 rpm the cam is rotating at 3500 rpm or 58 pulses per second)
The crank sensor (rpm sensor / pulse sensor) is a 'reluctance sensor'. A small permanent magnet is held close to a toothed/slotted wheel (usually 35 teeth with a gap where tooth 36 should be). A coil of wire wrapped around the magnet gives a little pulse each time the magnet moves from a tooth to a slot & vice versa (at 7000 rpm approximately 8000 pulses per second)
Thanks greatly for that info Andy :y :y
I learn something new everyday 8) 8) 8) 8) :-* :-* ;)
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..................I would still like to know though the difference between the Bosch Pulse sensor and a RPM one? ??? ??? :D ;)
It's a Hall effect sensor, they're both the same thing, surely?
It isn't a Hall effect sensor - they are too slow to pick up the pulses from the toothed/slotted ring on the crankshaft.
The cam position sensor is a Hall effect sensor as it needs to be sensitive to pick up a pulse once every time the camshaft does a revolution (so half crank rpm). Hall effect sensors tend to be 3 wire devices because they need a power supply for an amplifier in the sensor which can then give a clean square wave output. (at 7000 rpm the cam is rotating at 3500 rpm or 58 pulses per second)
The crank sensor (rpm sensor / pulse sensor) is a 'reluctance sensor'. A small permanent magnet is held close to a toothed/slotted wheel (usually 35 teeth with a gap where tooth 36 should be). A coil of wire wrapped around the magnet gives a little pulse each time the magnet moves from a tooth to a slot & vice versa (at 7000 rpm approximately 8000 pulses per second)
Thanks greatly for that info Andy :y :y
I learn something new everyday 8) 8) 8) 8) :-* :-* ;)
So do I, apparently ;D
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The crank sensor (rpm sensor / pulse sensor) is a 'reluctance sensor'. A small permanent magnet is held close to a toothed/slotted wheel (usually 35 teeth with a gap where tooth 36 should be). A coil of wire wrapped around the magnet gives a little pulse each time the magnet moves from a tooth to a slot & vice versa (at 7000 rpm approximately 8000 pulses per second)
The pulse size from a variable reluctance sensor is very RPM dependent - it's amplitude is proportional to the rate of change of flux which basically means the number of teeth per second that pass the sensor.
Haven't looked at the Omega, but the one on the Carlton generates about 2V at tick-over (650RPM) , and over 200V at full chat (6500RPM).
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Well, my Autodoc Bosch part is being delivered tomorrow.
But whilst still searching for the elusive Vx crank sensor 90540743 I have established that NONE of the Vx main dealers in Kent, South London and Sussex, like Perry's, W J King, Caffyn's, now have the part on their system as it has been discontinued.
So all of us Omega owners now have to rely on Bosch or similar versions, even if you walk to a genuine dealer, and try and get the genuine part, you will get a genuine NO!!, at least in our large part of the genuine World ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;)
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They have access to much wider than local stock. :-X
Have you spoken to VX about their quote? They might be more inclined to bother if they are incentivised.
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They have access to much wider than local stock. :-X
Have you spoken to VX about their quote? They might be more inclined to bother if they are incentivised.
None of the main dealers have this item on their systems; the number is now "not recognised" or simply discontinued.
Why when I can do the job simply myself ;)
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They have access to much wider than local stock. :-X
Have you spoken to VX about their quote? They might be more inclined to bother if they are incentivised.
None of the main dealers have this item on their systems; the number is now "not recognised" or simply discontinued.
Why when I can do the job simply myself ;)
I think what Al was saying was, if you gave them the job to do, they'd soon get their hands on one.
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They have access to much wider than local stock. :-X
Have you spoken to VX about their quote? They might be more inclined to bother if they are incentivised.
None of the main dealers have this item on their systems; the number is now "not recognised" or simply discontinued.
Why when I can do the job simply myself ;)
I think what Al was saying was, if you gave them the job to do, they'd soon get their hands on one.
Exactly.
Also they have electronic access to the Opel parts network, so saying thst they can't find one in the whole of Europe is complete rubbish. Because they clearly cannot be bothered to look beyond the CT postcode :-X
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Failing that any GM dealer that answers their phone could probably get you one before Monday.
It takes a little imagination and some resourcefulness, both of which seem to be notably absent.
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They have access to much wider than local stock. :-X
Have you spoken to VX about their quote? They might be more inclined to bother if they are incentivised.
None of the main dealers have this item on their systems; the number is now "not recognised" or simply discontinued.
Why when I can do the job simply myself ;)
I think what Al was saying was, if you gave them the job to do, they'd soon get their hands on one.
They cannot as none are available, even in Germany who's stock records my parts manager checks. In the past parts may not have been available in the UK, but he has sourced them, including Opel parts, in Germany. But he cannot this time.
In anycase the Bosch product, as others have confirmed, is replacing the old Vx sensor with exactly the same but with the Bosch badge. I m certainly not going to make anymore phone calls, with over 12 made already, and waste valuable time to find what I am reliably told by many in the trade as not available.
But if someone of here knows of where I can get a brand new, boxed, Vx/GM crank sensor be my guest and let me know. :D :D :y
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They have access to much wider than local stock. :-X
Have you spoken to VX about their quote? They might be more inclined to bother if they are incentivised.
None of the main dealers have this item on their systems; the number is now "not recognised" or simply discontinued.
Why when I can do the job simply myself ;)
I think what Al was saying was, if you gave them the job to do, they'd soon get their hands on one.
Exactly.
Also they have electronic access to the Opel parts network, so saying thst they can't find one in the whole of Europe is complete rubbish. Because they clearly cannot be bothered to look beyond the CT postcode :-X
So speaks the expert without checking the facts ::) ::) ;)
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............................so face it, our Omega's (for those who actually own one) are at least 18 years old, being out of production since then. Parts for them are already becoming scarce and will become increasingly so now. Any dealer stocks were sold off some time ago to clear their expensive warehousing that they require for the cars of just yesterday, but mainly of today.
As electric cars take over the sources for our spare parts must come from motor factor traders who certainly will not have Vx / GM versions of anything. I have always wished to replace my cars parts with the genuine own brand name versions, but now even I must accept those days are over, at least all the time I am keeping my Omega on the road which may become increasingly difficult as the new transport comes completely on line :'( :'( ;)
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They have access to much wider than local stock. :-X
Have you spoken to VX about their quote? They might be more inclined to bother if they are incentivised.
None of the main dealers have this item on their systems; the number is now "not recognised" or simply discontinued.
Why when I can do the job simply myself ;)
I think what Al was saying was, if you gave them the job to do, they'd soon get their hands on one.
Exactly.
Also they have electronic access to the Opel parts network, so saying thst they can't find one in the whole of Europe is complete rubbish. Because they clearly cannot be bothered to look beyond the CT postcode :-X
So speaks the expert without checking the facts ::) ::) ;)
Sorry DG, that was a bit blunt! ::) ::)
What I wanted to say is that, have you checked with any Vx dealer to find out if they have the crank sensor then, do now you can say to me that it is "complete rubbish"for the many dealers I have spoken to to say the part is "unavailable"? ;)
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No because I don't need one.
However the difference between you and I is that whilst you're running around in circles, I am fully prepared to buy parts from dealers elsewhere.
Most vehicles using that sensor were actually built in the US, so if VX/Opel/PSA are of no use, there are many GM dealers who actually might be.
Something that I alluded to on page 1.
To add, I have bought genuine parts for both the Omega and The Barge from the States with minimal fuss. Either because it was cheaper or for availability.
I have also experienced first hand how some VX parts hubs will rather earn a commission buying in aftermarket parts because they don't want to order them from the manufacturer supply chain. One even refused to confirm a part number 'because he couldn't order it'.
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No because I don't need one.
However the difference between you and I is that whilst you're running around in circles, I am fully prepared to buy parts from dealers elsewhere.
Most vehicles using that sensor were actually built in the US, so if VX/Opel/PSA are of no use, there are many GM dealers who actually might be.
Something that I alluded to on page 1.
To add, I have bought genuine parts for both the Omega and The Barge from the States with minimal fuss. Either because it was cheaper or for availability.
I have also experienced first hand how some VX parts hubs will rather earn a commission buying in aftermarket parts because they don't want to order them from the manufacturer supply chain. One even refused to confirm a part number 'because he couldn't order it'.
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Oh believe me I never run around in circles. I go on a direct line to achieve what I need. In this instance I have ascertained that no Vx dealer in the south east or south London area have the part, so researched many online sources. In the end I have made the decision that is right for me to purchase from Germany the Bosch sensor that is the equivalent to the Vx / GM one. It is being delivered in a sensible, viable time period, at a good price, and I am not having to go all the way to the US , with all that entails for no visible gain, but an additional time scale. That is if they can supply the part anyway that if they do will not be superior to the good old Bosch one that was fitted to the Omega in the first place, albeit with a Vx/GM badge. ;)
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A two minute call to the parts desk at Bob Steele Chevrolet in Melbourne, Fl,
Whim I have previously purchased from produced three useful pieces of information.
1. 90540743 is NLS.
2. It has been superceded by 90494182.
3. It costs $62.10 and is available on Friday.
Now tell me your dealer was actually trying.
Oh, and you're welcome :-X
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There is another way, IIRC you can use the crank sensor for a Vectra C 3.2, you will need to make up a lead though.
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https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-crankshaft-position-sensor-90494182
That took about 30 seconds of rummaging with the part number obtained from a two minute phone call. :-X
So that's 2.5 minutes that someone couldn't be bothered to do because they lack any imagination.
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https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-crankshaft-position-sensor-90494182
That took about 30 seconds of rummaging with the part number obtained from a two minute phone call. :-X
So that's 2.5 minutes that someone couldn't be bothered to do because they lack any imagination.
Now, yet again, you are getting really insulting and belittling my capabilities and how I value my time that you know nothing about.
As I have said, I have sourced a Bosch part in Germany so why should I phone Australia, the USA, or anywhere else when I have arriving today the part I need?
You are so full of dogma and up yourself and trying always to out do others. Why? ::) ::) ::)
Are you that insecure? :o :o :o
The sad thing is if your attitude was different I would actually welcome your useful input of information but how you come across just puts my back up. Great shame :'( :'( :'(
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As I said, no imagination.
Anyhoo, others might find the information useful (now that we know what the current part number is), even if you don't appreciate the effort.
So to answer your question from page 1, yes genuine GM crank sensors are readily available and they seem to still be a reasonable price.
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I wonder why you think a franchisee in a European organisation has any better access to a separate American one than you do? After all, they would have to contact their US equivalent, go through all the same process you do to order the part, add in whatever procedure their company has for buying from additional external suppliers(with the added hassle of different country/currency/banking rules), then pay the extra import charges(can't even attempt the 'gift' fraud) and eventually present you with the part along with a much bigger bill.
It's not lack of imagination that stops them from doing this - even if the parts man is aware that a 20 year old car had a an extremely niche(and poorly regarded) cousin elsewhere - but simple economics. It just ain't worth the grief, especially for a £60 part that's readily available from the aftermarket.
If they do know of this alternative, then giving you the part number they're using and suggesting that you try an American source would be good service.
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It's quite short sighted of them, because by providing better service then they might actually sell more.
Clearly PSA don't consider that to be a priority any more.
I have only encountered exceptional customer service from three Vauxhall dealers... Andy C when he was at Drive, the people who staffed the counter at Stevens Vauxhall and a dealer elsewhere whom I bought a load of bits from via Carpartsconnexxion.
Omega 2.6/3.2 production represented a fraction of the GM utilisation of that engine. A further rummage suggests it was used in a selection of SAABs and Cadillacs, (and therefore quite probably Buick as well), all of which were sold in Europe and the UK.
Regardless, given the idea that a genuine sensor should be better than an aftermarket alternative it does at least give people the renewed option of sourcing genuine.
The second link in my post in the Test Zone is to purchase any available parts from a GM dealer in North Carolina iirc and includes the ability to have an item shipped globally.
Even if it lands on the door at twice the advertised price, it will still be cheaper than two cheaper sensors of unknown quality. The shipping time will probably be quicker too if the likes of ATP are anything to go by.
And let's face it, a company isn't going to ship a small order for free unless they're making it up on the order, which effectively means that either the part isn't what you expect or the shipping will be as slow as molasses.
And as it goes, Ian Allan in Virginia Waters is an Official Chevrolet dealer and GMPartsworld in Cannock should theoretically be able to order any available GM part.
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Sorted!! :D :D :y :y :y
New boxed Bosch crank sensor arrived today as planed from Autodoc in Germany and it was the same as the Vx one, just with a Bosch stamp, in a Bosch box, correctly labeled, and made in Romania, in Bosch's ever expanding manufacturing facilities there.
Following to the letter the Maintenance Guide by Marks DTM I soon had the new sensor fitted and the engine fired up straight away.
All done now, straightforward job, and using a quality aftermarket part which actually is the same as the original. 8) 8) ;)
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Sorted!! :D :D :y :y :y
New boxed Bosch crank sensor arrived today as planed from Autodoc in Germany and it was the same as the Vx one, just with a Bosch stamp, in a Bosch box, correctly labeled, and made in Romania, in Bosch's ever expanding manufacturing facilities there.
Following to the letter the Maintenance Guide by Marks DTM I soon had the new sensor fitted and the engine fired up straight away.
All done now, straightforward job, and using a quality aftermarket part which actually is the same as the original. 8) 8) ;)
I'd wait a little while before saying that. ;D
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Indeed, the one originally fitted didn't work properly... ;D
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Indeed, the one originally fitted didn't work properly... ;D
Eh?
It lasted 18 years ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Sorted!! :D :D :y :y :y
New boxed Bosch crank sensor arrived today as planed from Autodoc in Germany and it was the same as the Vx one, just with a Bosch stamp, in a Bosch box, correctly labeled, and made in Romania, in Bosch's ever expanding manufacturing facilities there.
Following to the letter the Maintenance Guide by Marks DTM I soon had the new sensor fitted and the engine fired up straight away.
All done now, straightforward job, and using a quality aftermarket part which actually is the same as the original. 8) 8) ;)
Be interesting to see how long it lasts - be it 1 day or 20 years just so people can make an informed choice. :y
Genuine Bosch is available from plenty of authorised Bosch distributors in the UK - They can order the parts in directly, just need to ensure the packaging has the hologram on it.
I'm most disappointed that for all these years you don't appear to have been carrying a spare crank sensor in the boot.... ;D (That was a joke BTW!)
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It lasted 18 years ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;D
It lasted well then. I replaced mine twice in the (10?) years I had the car. And both times it failed in the most inconvenient place .... once in the middle of 4 lanes of traffic at traffic lights while Mrs B was driving and the 2nd while towing, and there was snow on the ground. ::)
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Sorted!! :D :D :y :y :y
New boxed Bosch crank sensor arrived today as planed from Autodoc in Germany and it was the same as the Vx one, just with a Bosch stamp, in a Bosch box, correctly labeled, and made in Romania, in Bosch's ever expanding manufacturing facilities there.
Following to the letter the Maintenance Guide by Marks DTM I soon had the new sensor fitted and the engine fired up straight away.
All done now, straightforward job, and using a quality aftermarket part which actually is the same as the original. 8) 8) ;)
Be interesting to see how long it lasts - be it 1 day or 20 years just so people can make an informed choice. :y
Genuine Bosch is available from plenty of authorised Bosch distributors in the UK - They can order the parts in directly, just need to ensure the packaging has the hologram on it.
I'm most disappointed that for all these years you don't appear to have been carrying a spare crank sensor in the boot.... ;D (That was a joke BTW!)
Yes, who knows. I pay my money and make a choice, hoping that I do not have to worry again about it. But the same goes for the whole car; who knows how long it will last, or how long I will be prepared to pay the bills to keep it running. Thank God though, as today again proves, I can still jack the car right up, do the main job and then go over the underside looking for any issues. As it was I had to just tighten up the oil filter cover as it was just showing signs of an oil dribble.
When I can no longer climb underneath the beast and enjoy it, I will give up driving or just give up the Omega!! ::) ::) ;D ;D
Yep, I am not one to drive around with spares in the boot, just tools. That is all I have ever needed and as I do a fraction of the mileage I once did, I do not intend to change. But I know that is against OOF mantra ;D ;D ;D ;)
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Yes, who knows. I pay my money and make a choice, hoping that I do not have to worry again about it. But the same goes for the whole car; who knows how long it will last, or how long I will be prepared to pay the bills to keep it running. Thank God though, as today again proves, I can still jack the car right up, do the main job and then go over the underside looking for any issues. As it was I had to just tighten up the oil filter cover as it was just showing signs of an oil dribble.
When I can no longer climb underneath the beast and enjoy it, I will give up driving or just give up the Omega!! ::) ::) ;D ;D
Yep, I am not one to drive around with spares in the boot, just tools. That is all I have ever needed and as I do a fraction of the mileage I once did, I do not intend to change. But I know that is against OOF mantra ;D ;D ;D ;)
Nooooooooooooooo, Lizzie - please tell us that you are joking?
The O-ring in the cap provides the seal (usually). The cap only needs to be done up to 15Nm (not very tight). Any tighter and your next topic will be about how the cannister span round and started leaking from the base when you tried to change the filter. (sometimes the cap becomes immovable despite not being done up tight :-\)
I have had the o-ring weep on a newly fitted filter so I know they are fallible. When it happened to me I refitted the old O-ring & that remained oil tight until the next oil change.
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Yes, who knows. I pay my money and make a choice, hoping that I do not have to worry again about it. But the same goes for the whole car; who knows how long it will last, or how long I will be prepared to pay the bills to keep it running. Thank God though, as today again proves, I can still jack the car right up, do the main job and then go over the underside looking for any issues. As it was I had to just tighten up the oil filter cover as it was just showing signs of an oil dribble.
When I can no longer climb underneath the beast and enjoy it, I will give up driving or just give up the Omega!! ::) ::) ;D ;D
Yep, I am not one to drive around with spares in the boot, just tools. That is all I have ever needed and as I do a fraction of the mileage I once did, I do not intend to change. But I know that is against OOF mantra ;D ;D ;D ;)
Nooooooooooooooo, Lizzie - please tell us that you are joking?
The O-ring in the cap provides the seal (usually). The cap only needs to be done up to 15Nm (not very tight). Any tighter and your next topic will be about how the cannister span round and started leaking from the base when you tried to change the filter. (sometimes the cap becomes immovable despite not being done up tight :-\)
I have had the o-ring weep on a newly fitted filter so I know they are fallible. When it happened to me I refitted the old O-ring & that remained oil tight until the next oil change.
Sorry to bother you give you the vapours Andy ;D ;D
No, do not worry, there was a 2mm gap between the filter body and the cap, so just turned the cap to only eliminate the gap, no more, which I must have left when I changed the filter the other month. Checked the torque and all now ok :D ;)
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They don't suddenly come loose.
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I place an adjustable 'thumb screw' band type oil filter wrench round the main oil filter housing / body, positioned against something solid, just to prevent any possibilty of the the housing turning on removal of the filter cap. As with most screw on / spin on filters, the cap always seems to be a lot tighter on removal than when fitted.
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I place an adjustable 'thumb screw' band type oil filter wrench round the main oil filter housing / body, positioned against something solid, just to prevent any possibilty of the the housing turning on removal of the filter cap. As with most screw on / spin on filters, the cap always seems to be a lot tighter on removal than when fitted.
In the dozen or so oil changes during the ownership of my V6 Omega I never ever had a problem with removing the cap just using a socket on the end of it ... :-\
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Same here, but then I do (usually) torque them to the correct figure. :y
Anyway, nine pages of talking about a lump of plastic with a wire sticking out one end must be a record.
We all need to get out more. Only 18days to go. ::)
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Same here, but then I do (usually) torque them to the correct figure. :y
Anyway, nine pages of talking about a lump of plastic with a wire sticking out one end must be a record.
We all need to get out more. Only 18days to go. ::)
You can't even think that, let alone say it :-X
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Same here, but then I do (usually) torque them to the correct figure. :y
Anyway, nine pages of talking about a lump of plastic with a wire sticking out one end must be a record.
We all need to get out more. Only 18days to go. ::)
Where yer goin, Albs, anywhere nice? ;D
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Same here, but then I do (usually) torque them to the correct figure. :y
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Never used a torque wrench .... ::)
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How many of us have TW’s down to 15nm? 8)
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How many of us have TW’s down to 15nm? 8)
Yup 8)
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They don't suddenly come loose.
Yeah, I do know that!! ::) ::) ::) ::)
Another unnecessary dig from you >:(
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I place an adjustable 'thumb screw' band type oil filter wrench round the main oil filter housing / body, positioned against something solid, just to prevent any possibilty of the the housing turning on removal of the filter cap. As with most screw on / spin on filters, the cap always seems to be a lot tighter on removal than when fitted.
I usually use a large socket to get onto the cap with a check by a torque wrench. On the last occasion of changing the oil filter I was working in the dark, and wanted to get the job done quickly and I thought I did not need a torch; that was my mistake, and when the resistance seemed to tell me it was on fully on, I stopped turning/checking leaving no more than the 2mm gap.. Never done it before, will not do it again!! :-[ :-[ :D ;)
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I place an adjustable 'thumb screw' band type oil filter wrench round the main oil filter housing / body, positioned against something solid, just to prevent any possibilty of the the housing turning on removal of the filter cap. As with most screw on / spin on filters, the cap always seems to be a lot tighter on removal than when fitted.
In the dozen or so oil changes during the ownership of my V6 Omega I never ever had a problem with removing the cap just using a socket on the end of it ... :-\
Yep, normally that is all I have had to do. :y
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Until you find one that some a hole has fitted without oiling seal and done up with a scaffold bar, usually by some trog at a fast fit centre !!
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Until you find one that some a hole has fitted without oiling seal and done up with a scaffold bar, usually by some trog at a fast fit centre !!
If they bother to replace it at all. I serviced a neighbour’s Golf for a year or two, but he insisted on getting one done by a local Indy. The next time I did it I asked to see the invoice on which he had been charged for new plugs, and which clearly hadn’t been out for years!
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Until you find one that some a hole has fitted without oiling seal and done up with a scaffold bar, usually by some trog at a fast fit centre !!
I struggled to get mine off when I changed it for the first time. I was primed for that, so had a strap wrench around the casing. I tightened the cap with a torque wrench.
A year and about 9000 miles later, I went through the same procedure which also includes an oil slick.
Replacing the whole apparatus with a spin-on filter changed all of that. Cartridge filters are OK when the housing is an integral part of the engine, and is vertical with the cap at the top. Attaching a casing instead of the spin-on filter is a very odd idea.
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Replacing the whole apparatus with a spin-on filter changed all of that. Cartridge filters are OK when the housing is an integral part of the engine, and is vertical with the cap at the top. Attaching a casing instead of the spin-on filter is a very odd idea.
but we had cartridge type filters years before we got spin-on filters
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Replacing the whole apparatus with a spin-on filter changed all of that. Cartridge filters are OK when the housing is an integral part of the engine, and is vertical with the cap at the top. Attaching a casing instead of the spin-on filter is a very odd idea.
but we had cartridge type filters years before we got spin-on filters
Indeed. I've converted A-series engines to the less troublesome spin-ons too.
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I wouldn't say the paper cartridge filters are troublesome. I simply use a thin band type of filter wrench as a 'belt and braces' approach just in case the filter cap is tighter than I would like, even though it had just been nipped up on fitting. The 2 mins it takes to get the filter wrench out of the drawer, fit and tighten on the housing makes sense to me. The one I did that prompted me to start doing this several years ago was a result of the housing just turning slightly when I undid the cap. I ended up having to sort out the right size of allen key socket, the correct length of small extension, removing and cleaning all surfaces etc and refitting the housing before fittng the new filter and the cap.
So 2 mins to prevent it turning in my opinion is time well spent.
Oh, and I use a flexi head ratchet spanner on the hex head of the cap which I think allows better access, rather than a more bulky ratchet and socket.
Haven't we gone off topic on a bit of tangent again here...?
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I wouldn't say the paper cartridge filters are troublesome.
Try that on an A-series; there's an adapter to step the filter out from the block and hang it next to the sump. The cartridge sits in a pressed cup, and is held together with long thin bolt through the centre which is 'sealed' with a couple of O-rings. The bolt twists, the cup distorts and the whole thing leaks like a bastard. The spin-ons are MUCH better; unlike on the v6 where they're just worthwhile.
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I wouldn't say the paper cartridge filters are troublesome. I simply use a thin band type of filter wrench as a 'belt and braces' approach just in case the filter cap is tighter than I would like, even though it had just been nipped up on fitting. The 2 mins it takes to get the filter wrench out of the drawer, fit and tighten on the housing makes sense to me. The one I did that prompted me to start doing this several years ago was a result of the housing just turning slightly when I undid the cap. I ended up having to sort out the right size of allen key socket, the correct length of small extension, removing and cleaning all surfaces etc and refitting the housing before fittng the new filter and the cap.
So 2 mins to prevent it turning in my opinion is time well spent.
Oh, and I use a flexi head ratchet spanner on the hex head of the cap which I think allows better access, rather than a more bulky ratchet and socket.
Haven't we gone off topic on a bit of tangent again here...?
;D ;D ;D Maybe, but usual OOF thread fodder going from one main subject o another which, at least in this case is all related and which for me is very interesting and it is when I learn a lot 8) 8) :y :y
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.........in fact on the subject of both the crank sensor and the filter housing, when I was fitting the former I had kittens when I thought the bolt hole didn't line up with the one on the engine. After a few seconds I realised that the actual bolt hole for the sensor was now hidden by the new one, lining up perfectly, but there is another bolt hole just underneath it.
Is that hole, which appears to be threaded, for a different size of sensor? ??? ???
Just interested to know for future reference. :D ;)