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Just Bought an Elite

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grifter:
That's the NSF wheen bearing done, very easy job, except of course tightening to 320NM? My torque bar only goes to 200, so I waited until my elbow clicked and took that as the correct torque!

While that was off I took of the little dust shield and gave it scrape to get the flakes of rust off of it, and to satisfy myself the little torx would loosen tip, give the torx head a medium bash with the head of a hammer then hammer the torx socket in it, first action flattens the head in a bit so the socket fits snug, also loosens the rust and breaks any seized up bolts. No point doing it up or painting it as it's porous on some of the edges so will need new ones eventually.

Next job was remove the OS track arm. I didn't even try to loosen the old one's adjusters as they are always mega seized, just replaced the whole thing as the outside track rod had play, and the back one felt a bit loose too. Few strikes of a 1 pound mallet got the outside one to pop but the inner one was a complete bar steward, so I got out the ball joint splitter and let that take the strain.

Done the measure up thingy with the old arm then put the new one on (After slabbering the new threads with copper slip) and torque'd up to 74 Lb Ft on outside joint, I'd seen another suggestion, from Haynes that the inner one is 25 Lb Ft but that's way too loose for my liking, so done it to about 50 Lb Ft.

Still got the NS track arm to replace, plus remove both wishbones and replace the longitudinal bushes with polys, and the other ones with new GM bushes, then get tracking done. Probably should go for new ball joints this time, never done on my CD so probably worthwhile since I'm in there with everything off (the car, not me!)

grifter:
The N/S track arm is now replaced. I've also started cleaning the headlights with wet & dry working up the grits 800 > 3000. Decided to take the rear wheels off and check everything around and underneath there, and give all the nuts and bolts a scoosh of WD. While I had the wheels off I squeezed the rear caliper pistons bak to check they weren't seizing.

When I had the rears off I released the handbrake and put in N so I could rotate rear wheels. Just a note when you remove the block of wood from the front wheel make sure you're back in P and handbrake on! My driveway has a slight incline near the end of it, so my other omega was sitting down this incline, and the elite at the top of it, just on the edge.

When I pulled the block out I forgot about handbrake so as I was kicking it back with my feet it was getting caught again every time, not realising the car was inching forward slowly onto the block again. Once I'd completely removed the block, I'd walked away to do something else, and the elite rolled forward but luckily I had my open toolbox about a foot in front of it, which stopped it about 2 inches from the bumper of the CD!

Even if it had hit the CD there wasn't any serious distance (4 feet maybe) to gather speed and the incline is mild (probably a few percent) so would probably have just bounced off it. 

grifter:
Just started stripping out all the stuff to do the following jobs:

Engine:
Timing belt
Rocker gaskets
Oil cooler

underneath:
poly bushes for the arms
Ball joints (Refurbish arms basically)

Decided to give the oil cooler job a go, never done it before so wanted to see how it all came apart and give it the once over while there. Utter pain in the pants getting those oil cooler > block pipes off, I managed to get it with normal 19mm spanner, but only just, very limited movement and had to remove the crank sensor for space.

The big nut. closest to front, that holds the plate onto the oil cooler also stripped thread on the way off and had to grab it with a pair of parrot grips to yank it off. looking at the cooler it looks clean enough on the outside but I can only see glimmers of light through it. I've got 2 new ones so may as well replace it while it's out. The sealant on the plate was looking a bit disheveled so get that sealed up properly again.

Stripped all the belt out as well and locked up the engine ready for the new belt. Funny that the tensioner had 2 big indents right round it, couldn't see where that came from. The tensioners all feel nice and tight as does the water pump, but you can see the dust from the belt all over the back casing.

Still to strip the arms out to replace the bushes with polys and the ball joints. I'm going to find perfect bushes and ball joints I just know it!

Plenty to keep me going!

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