Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tigers_gonads on 07 March 2020, 13:41:46
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Any preferred suppliers ?
My oppser has sprung a leak :(
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Any preferred suppliers ?
My oppser has sprung a leak :(
I need to get a full system including cats for a 3.2
I've done 10k since I realised that.
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Had a genuine VX system fitted on my 2.6 a few years back as the car was over 10 years old I got it with a 70 percent discount as it was "new old stock" from my local VX main dealership, did a great job & sounded superb.
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Had a genuine VX system fitted on my 2.6 a few years back as the car was over 10 years old I got it with a 70 percent discount as it was "new old stock" from my local VX main dealership, did a great job & sounded superb.
The last set of genuine GM exhausts I saw, which was admittedly a good few years ago, had suffered a massive drop in quality, and were no better than the Eternal and ETS ones which are around 1/3rd of the price. I doubt very much there are any of the older higher quality ones in GM anywhere now.
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Had a genuine VX system fitted on my 2.6 a few years back as the car was over 10 years old I got it with a 70 percent discount as it was "new old stock" from my local VX main dealership, did a great job & sounded superb.
The last set of genuine GM exhausts I saw, which was admittedly a good few years ago, had suffered a massive drop in quality, and were no better than the Eternal and ETS ones which are around 1/3rd of the price. I doubt very much there are any of the older higher quality ones in GM anywhere now.
VX changed the supplier of their exhausts years ago to Bosal, hence the drop in quality
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Eternal / ETS have been the zorst of choice for several years now.
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I have fitted Bosal to two of my Omegas, both centre pipes and the back box, and in my opinion they are good quality. I got them from the local Bosal factory outside Preston (it has now closed), and they are made from a thick gauge steel, fit perfectly and sound well. Price was very good as well.
They seem better quality than the spare brand new VX pipes and back boxes that I have.
I've no complaints with them at all and I have used various makes of exhausts over the years on different cars.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-exhaust-from-CAT-mounting-kit-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-3-0-V6-Saloon-1994-2001/392447044579?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item5b5faaabe3:g:TxcAAOSwkaddjL4m
What's not to like, old one off, re-fit after drilling out flanges. Job done. :y
Tools needed, drill, 5/16 bit, 13mm socket and ratchet, 13mm spanner, bit of exhaust paste of choice, pair of ramps, or 4 axle stands and Jack. :y
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-exhaust-from-CAT-mounting-kit-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-3-0-V6-Saloon-1994-2001/392447044579?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item5b5faaabe3:g:TxcAAOSwkaddjL4m
What's not to like, old one off, re-fit after drilling out flanges. Job done. :y
Tools needed, drill, 5/16 bit, 13mm socket and ratchet, 13mm spanner, bit of exhaust paste of choice, pair of ramps, or 4 axle stands and Jack. :y
You make it sound easy! Having broken off a few bits drilling out the old screws, I prefer to heat up the old screws and flanges and cautiously ease out the old screws, then clean up the threads and use new screws. I curse the day when Vx changed from screws and nuts (Senator) to tapped holes and screws (Omega).
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Recently bought exact same mid box section for mine to be fitted later.
Noticed that they now have a join along the long section of pipe and a connection bracket.Maybe to reduce parcel and postage costs ,but may also aid fitting .
Quick delivery and all parts included although unsure of quality of rubber hangers
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-exhaust-from-CAT-mounting-kit-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-3-0-V6-Saloon-1994-2001/392447044579?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item5b5faaabe3:g:TxcAAOSwkaddjL4m
What's not to like, old one off, re-fit after drilling out flanges. Job done. :y
Tools needed, drill, 5/16 bit, 13mm socket and ratchet, 13mm spanner, bit of exhaust paste of choice, pair of ramps, or 4 axle stands and Jack. :y
You make it sound easy! Having broken off a few bits drilling out the old screws, I prefer to heat up the old screws and flanges and cautiously ease out the old screws, then clean up the threads and use new screws. I curse the day when Vx changed from screws and nuts (Senator) to tapped holes and screws (Omega).
I could never understand why Vauxhall threaded the down pipe & had clearance holes in the exhaust. Had they done it the other way round it wouldn't have mattered if the bolt sheared off in the bit you were about to replace.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-exhaust-from-CAT-mounting-kit-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-3-0-V6-Saloon-1994-2001/392447044579?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item5b5faaabe3:g:TxcAAOSwkaddjL4m
What's not to like, old one off, re-fit after drilling out flanges. Job done. :y
Tools needed, drill, 5/16 bit, 13mm socket and ratchet, 13mm spanner, bit of exhaust paste of choice, pair of ramps, or 4 axle stands and Jack. :y
You make it sound easy! Having broken off a few bits drilling out the old screws, I prefer to heat up the old screws and flanges and cautiously ease out the old screws, then clean up the threads and use new screws. I curse the day when Vx changed from screws and nuts (Senator) to tapped holes and screws (Omega).
Because it is easy, with decent drill bits, of all the 6 Omega I owned,all got the same treatment on the downpipes, I also removed the 15mn nuts on the manifolds and replaced them with m10, 17mm nuts n washers, yes a faff but worth it in the long run.
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Okay, finally got a dry day off and up on ramps :(
Its much MUCH worse then I thought :'(
The car is fitted with converted 3ltr cats and the end piece / flange of the cat which mates up to the centre section has rotted away to the point that it has broken away from the cat pipe itself :'(
Anyway around this ?
I really don't want to fit another cat if I can get away with it.
Maybe cut the ends off and fit a inline flexible sleeve to join it up ?
I do have a picture of it but cant find the picture resizing software / remember how to oppsing do it :-[
If anybody could supply me a email address via pm and post it, I would appreciate it :)
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-exhaust-from-CAT-mounting-kit-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-3-0-V6-Saloon-1994-2001/392447044579?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item5b5faaabe3:g:TxcAAOSwkaddjL4m (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-exhaust-from-CAT-mounting-kit-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-3-0-V6-Saloon-1994-2001/392447044579?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item5b5faaabe3:g:TxcAAOSwkaddjL4m)
What's not to like, old one off, re-fit after drilling out flanges. Job done. :y
Tools needed, drill, 5/16 bit, 13mm socket and ratchet, 13mm spanner, bit of exhaust paste of choice, pair of ramps, or 4 axle stands and Jack. :y
You make it sound easy! Having broken off a few bits drilling out the old screws, I prefer to heat up the old screws and flanges and cautiously ease out the old screws, then clean up the threads and use new screws. I curse the day when Vx changed from screws and nuts (Senator) to tapped holes and screws (Omega).
that's because Trevor doesn't faff about drilling tiny holes and then attempting to open them up in stages at too low a speed. That just means the drill rubs instead of cutting and causes problems.A good centre punch and straight in with a good quality, sharp 8mm(5/16" for those stuck in the 19th century) bit at full speed on your cordless drill gets the job done.
Wire brushing the protruding end of the bolt and applying your penetrating fluid of choice before trying to undo them is a good start, but once they break you're back to the drill. If you don't get the bolt cherry red, then heating it is a waste of time; oxy-acetylene is necessary for that, a butane blow torch won't do it. If you have oxy-acetylene, you heat the broken bolts to red hot and knock them out with a punch.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-exhaust-from-CAT-mounting-kit-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-3-0-V6-Saloon-1994-2001/392447044579?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item5b5faaabe3:g:TxcAAOSwkaddjL4m (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-exhaust-from-CAT-mounting-kit-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-3-0-V6-Saloon-1994-2001/392447044579?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item5b5faaabe3:g:TxcAAOSwkaddjL4m)
What's not to like, old one off, re-fit after drilling out flanges. Job done. :y
Tools needed, drill, 5/16 bit, 13mm socket and ratchet, 13mm spanner, bit of exhaust paste of choice, pair of ramps, or 4 axle stands and Jack. :y
You make it sound easy! Having broken off a few bits drilling out the old screws, I prefer to heat up the old screws and flanges and cautiously ease out the old screws, then clean up the threads and use new screws. I curse the day when Vx changed from screws and nuts (Senator) to tapped holes and screws (Omega).
that's because Trevor doesn't faff about drilling tiny holes and then attempting to open them up in stages at too low a speed. That just means the drill rubs instead of cutting and causes problems.A good centre punch and straight in with a good quality, sharp 8mm(5/16" for those stuck in the 19th century) bit at full speed on your cordless drill gets the job done.
Wire brushing the protruding end of the bolt and applying your penetrating fluid of choice before trying to undo them is a good start, but once they break you're back to the drill. If you don't get the bolt cherry red, then heating it is a waste of time; oxy-acetylene is necessary for that, a butane blow torch won't do it. If you have oxy-acetylene, you heat the broken bolts to red hot and knock them out with a punch.
Have you been an exhaust fitter as-well Nick, first thing I was learned, use the blue spanner, and knock it thro, after cutting the nuts off first :y
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Have you been an exhaust fitter as-well Nick, first thing I was learned, use the blue spanner, and knock it thro, after cutting the nuts off first :y
No, but several friends were. You pick up these tips waiting for them to close before going to the pub.
Exhaust work was one of the reasons I acquired an oxy-acet welding set, which has had much more use to heat stuff than for welding. The key thing is to use heat before you damage a part irretrievably - O2 sensors are a good example.
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Have you been an exhaust fitter as-well Nick, first thing I was learned, use the blue spanner, and knock it thro, after cutting the nuts off first :y
No, but several friends were. You pick up these tips waiting for them to close before going to the pub.
Exhaust work was one of the reasons I acquired an oxy-acet welding set, which has had much more use to heat stuff than for welding. The key thing is to use heat before you damage a part irretrievably - O2 sensors are a good example.
The blue spanner was used more than the chrome spanner, especially for relaxing stainless downpipes, and removing old systems,, Would think with modern HSE, not allowed the blue spanner anymore..
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The 'blue spanner' is not permitted for any use in the workshop at my local Audi dealership - they have to resort to using a powerful hot airgun which I can't see being particularly effective, and then just end replacing the whole rusted component if that fails at an unnecessary cost to the customer.
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I have fitted Bosal to two of my Omegas, both centre pipes and the back box, and in my opinion they are good quality. I got them from the local Bosal factory outside Preston (it has now closed), and they are made from a thick gauge steel, fit perfectly and sound well. Price was very good as well.
They seem better quality than the spare brand new VX pipes and back boxes that I have.
I've no complaints with them at all and I have used various makes of exhausts over the years on different cars.
That surprises me, as any Bosal exhaust I've had the displeasure of acquiring in the Omega era has been utterly nasty in every respect.
Fortunately, unless the car is on exclusively long runs, they rarely live out the 2 year warranty.
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Thank you, Nick and BigG, I have learned a lot today. I still wonder where to buy decent 8mm drills that I can put staight through the remains of a bolt at full speed, and am surprised to learn that you can punch them out when cherry red. It's a bit late for me now, with my easily bruised hands.
I did find that if a bolt did not turn with moderate torque on the spanner, it helped to get it red hot with the butane torch and try again. Hammering hollow nuts helped too, on brake bleed nipples and the like.
I have a hazy recollection that one of the lads at my MOT shop told me that a current from a Mig Welder between manifold bolt and cylinder head can release the thread. Is there anything in this?
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I have fitted Bosal to two of my Omegas, both centre pipes and the back box, and in my opinion they are good quality. I got them from the local Bosal factory outside Preston (it has now closed), and they are made from a thick gauge steel, fit perfectly and sound well. Price was very good as well.
They seem better quality than the spare brand new VX pipes and back boxes that I have.
I've no complaints with them at all and I have used various makes of exhausts over the years on different cars.
That surprises me, as any Bosal exhaust I've had the displeasure of acquiring in the Omega era has been utterly nasty in every respect.
Fortunately, unless the car is on exclusively long runs, they rarely live out the 2 year warranty.
One has been on nearly 4 years, the other 18 months. Both are cars that do about 3-4 k a year.
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Thank you, Nick and BigG, I have learned a lot today. I still wonder where to buy decent 8mm drills that I can put staight through the remains of a bolt at full speed, and am surprised to learn that you can punch them out when cherry red. It's a bit late for me now, with my easily bruised hands.
I did find that if a bolt did not turn with moderate torque on the spanner, it helped to get it red hot with the butane torch and try again. Hammering hollow nuts helped too, on brake bleed nipples and the like.
I find that Omegas with the original bolt into the threaded flange and the bolts are proving difficult to remove / release, a very thin cut in the edge of the flange through to the thread of the bolt using a very small thin cutting wheel on a Dremmel is sufficient to release the pressure on the bolt, and with a bit of heat they undo quite easily. A replacement bolt will still hold with the original threads, but a washer / spring washer and a nut for good measure works a treat.
They don't need to be overly tight after all.
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Thank you, Nick and BigG, I have learned a lot today. I still wonder where to buy decent 8mm drills that I can put staight through the remains of a bolt at full speed, and am surprised to learn that you can punch them out when cherry red. It's a bit late for me now, with my easily bruised hands.
I did find that if a bolt did not turn with moderate torque on the spanner, it helped to get it red hot with the butane torch and try again. Hammering hollow nuts helped too, on brake bleed nipples and the like.
I have a hazy recollection that one of the lads at my MOT shop told me that a current from a Mig Welder between manifold bolt and cylinder head can release the thread. Is there anything in this?
For decent drills a good fastener supplies,or engineering supplies, or from work ;), The mig welder is a bit it might undo or snap trying, we use to get the bolts in flanges etc nearly white, then a quick whack with a drift,out they come, had a few close incidents when near fuel tanks, and old bangers that dripped fuel, but as we're British, don't panic,it's only a car worth a lot of money.. :o
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That surprises me, as any Bosal exhaust I've had the displeasure of acquiring in the Omega era has been utterly nasty in every respect.
Fortunately, unless the car is on exclusively long runs, they rarely live out the 2 year warranty.
Frequent or even daily long trips, don't help, not with a Bosal. Used to do high miles in a Carlton. No short trips. Local tyre and exhaust shop fitted a complete Bosal and it corroded and literally fell apart after about 16 months. All replaced under warranty. It corroded because the metal was ludicrously thin and of some sort of anonymous composition. I don't believe they've improved any since.
The original parts were Walker, I think. Much higher quality.
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Thank you, Nick and BigG, I have learned a lot today. I still wonder where to buy decent 8mm drills that I can put staight through the remains of a bolt at full speed, and am surprised to learn that you can punch them out when cherry red. It's a bit late for me now, with my easily bruised hands.
you buy quality drill bits from places that supply metal workers! They will have all the sizes you need for car work(3,6,8 and 10 will do) at affordable prices, Those four should be acheivable for less than a fiver. Ask if they have 6 and 8mm left-handed bits which sometimes wind out broken bolts as they drill, which can help for blind holes.
A properly ground, good quality 60° centre punch is worth having too, you want a deep mark so the drill starts where you want it. I'm still using an Eclipse one that was secondhand(Grandad probably liberated it from work) before I was born.
Knocking out a broken bolt is much easier if it's really hot; it needs to be glowing bright red.
Mig welding can help for a bolt broken off above the surface; you weld a blob to the end, hammer a nut over it, weld the nut to the blob and loosen before the whole mess cools down. Be careful when trying this, as if it doesn't work you'll be trying to drill through very hard mig weld.
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Thank you, Nick and BigG, I have learned a lot today. I still wonder where to buy decent 8mm drills that I can put staight through the remains of a bolt at full speed, and am surprised to learn that you can punch them out when cherry red. It's a bit late for me now, with my easily bruised hands.
you buy quality drill bits from places that supply metal workers! They will have all the sizes you need for car work(3,6,8 and 10 will do) at affordable prices, Those four should be acheivable for less than a fiver. Ask if they have 6 and 8mm left-handed bits which sometimes wind out broken bolts as they drill, which can help for blind holes.
A properly ground, good quality 60° centre punch is worth having too, you want a deep mark so the drill starts where you want it. I'm still using an Eclipse one that was secondhand(Grandad probably liberated it from work) before I was born.
Knocking out a broken bolt is much easier if it's really hot; it needs to be glowing bright red.
Mig welding can help for a bolt broken off above the surface; you weld a blob to the end, hammer a nut over it, weld the nut to the blob and loosen before the whole mess cools down. Be careful when trying this, as if it doesn't work you'll be trying to drill through very hard mig weld.
Thank you. I seem to have bought all my drill bits from Machine Mart. Some were cobalt steel, some were HSS titanium coated. Neither set provided an 8mm drill able to drill at full speed through a bolt stub.
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Thank you, Nick and BigG, I have learned a lot today. I still wonder where to buy decent 8mm drills that I can put staight through the remains of a bolt at full speed, and am surprised to learn that you can punch them out when cherry red. It's a bit late for me now, with my easily bruised hands.
you buy quality drill bits from places that supply metal workers! They will have all the sizes you need for car work(3,6,8 and 10 will do) at affordable prices, Those four should be acheivable for less than a fiver. Ask if they have 6 and 8mm left-handed bits which sometimes wind out broken bolts as they drill, which can help for blind holes.
A properly ground, good quality 60° centre punch is worth having too, you want a deep mark so the drill starts where you want it. I'm still using an Eclipse one that was secondhand(Grandad probably liberated it from work) before I was born.
Knocking out a broken bolt is much easier if it's really hot; it needs to be glowing bright red.
Mig welding can help for a bolt broken off above the surface; you weld a blob to the end, hammer a nut over it, weld the nut to the blob and loosen before the whole mess cools down. Be careful when trying this, as if it doesn't work you'll be trying to drill through very hard mig weld.
Thank you. I seem to have bought all my drill bits from Machine Mart. Some were cobalt steel, some were HSS titanium coated. Neither set provided an 8mm drill able to drill at full speed through a bolt stub.
I have their coated sets in both metric and imperial and they do all of my non-critical work. Drilling out, or drilling and tapping M8 threads certainly qualify! I use them in the lathe, mill and cordless drill for steel, aluminium and brass with no problems although stainless can be a bit tricky. A drill bit is a cutting tool, so the correct speed and feed are important. Too slow or gentle and you'll rub the edge off the tool and possibly harden the work. Too fast/hard and you'll burn both parts, preventing you from sharpening the tool. Cutting fluid helps, WD40 for aluminium, dark sulphur based for steel(Machine Mart have this) and Trefolex for stainless, although anything(engine oil, 3 in 1, clean cooking oil) better than nothing
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That surprises me, as any Bosal exhaust I've had the displeasure of acquiring in the Omega era has been utterly nasty in every respect.
Fortunately, unless the car is on exclusively long runs, they rarely live out the 2 year warranty.
Frequent or even daily long trips, don't help, not with a Bosal. Used to do high miles in a Carlton. No short trips. Local tyre and exhaust shop fitted a complete Bosal and it corroded and literally fell apart after about 16 months. All replaced under warranty. It corroded because the metal was ludicrously thin and of some sort of anonymous composition. I don't believe they've improved any since.
The original parts were Walker, I think. Much higher quality.
The exhaust sections I got direct from Bosal were definitely not 'ludicrously thin' gauge steel, and one is still perfectly serviceable after 4 years which tends to contradict the view that they are exceptionally poor quality.
It is known that some vehicle component manufacturers made components of varying quality for different suppliers, and OEM components were of better quality than some genuine replacement parts.
Maybe there is a possibilty the ones I got direct from Bosal a short while before before the factory closed were of a higher quality than some that ended up for sale at motor factors.
A bit like the original GM back boxes with the angled stainless tailpipe tips and the outer skin on the silencer, compared to the replacement GM boxes that were just single skin and the straight tips that were mild steel - leagues apart in quality.
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The exhaust sections I got direct from Bosal were definitely not 'ludicrously thin' gauge steel, and one is still perfectly serviceable after 4 years which tends to contradict the view that they are exceptionally poor quality.
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Maybe there is a possibilty the ones I got direct from Bosal a short while before before the factory closed were of a higher quality than some that ended up for sale at motor factors.
Thats not been my experience in the entire Omega era, so the last 25yrs or more.
No idea if they always had multiple factories around the world with varying costs/quality, but its fair to say that a factory would not be exclusively making parts for customers who knock on the front gates.
So I have no choice but to conclude, as per my experiences of picking them up for many different cars from reputable motor factors (and less reputable like euroshite), that I have to agree with the whole world, and say they are appallingly bad quality, sound awful, and yet to see one fitted to a petrol car last the 2yr warranty.
I am delighted to hear that you have had better experiences though :)
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I just fitted a stainless exhaust (name of which fails me) when the OE first failed .... expensive at the time but it lasted while I had the car. :y
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One of my favorite subjects at the meetings of the Clube do Omega MG and I am always consulted. As the music of the 6-cylinder engine always deserves to be beautiful, in the almost 16 years with the Omega, I have already changed the exhaust configuration 13 times !!
;D ;D ;D ;D
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The exhaust sections I got direct from Bosal were definitely not 'ludicrously thin' gauge steel, and one is still perfectly serviceable after 4 years which tends to contradict the view that they are exceptionally poor quality.
...
Maybe there is a possibilty the ones I got direct from Bosal a short while before before the factory closed were of a higher quality than some that ended up for sale at motor factors.
Thats not been my experience in the entire Omega era, so the last 25yrs or more.
No idea if they always had multiple factories around the world with varying costs/quality, but its fair to say that a factory would not be exclusively making parts for customers who knock on the front gates.
So I have no choice but to conclude, as per my experiences of picking them up for many different cars from reputable motor factors (and less reputable like euroshite), that I have to agree with the whole world, and say they are appallingly bad quality, sound awful, and yet to see one fitted to a petrol car last the 2yr warranty.
I am delighted to hear that you have had better experiences though :)
Maybe it's down to the better weather we have up North.... ;D
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One of my favorite subjects at the meetings of the Clube do Omega MG and I am always consulted. As the music of the 6-cylinder engine always deserves to be beautiful, in the almost 16 years with the Omega, I have already changed the exhaust configuration 13 times !!
;D ;D ;D ;D
Blimey Luiz :o :o, How long have you had the car?
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May 22nd, complete 16 years of Omega.
;D ;D ;D ;D
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May 22nd, complete 16 years of Omega.
;D ;D ;D ;D
You should get time off for good behavior mate. ;)
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thats great. and after owning a car for that long you will know it inside out. like part of the family that you will keep indefinately.
my brother has had his for 15 years ,me only 5 unfortunately although ive owned one of my cars 34 years !.no doubt there will be some other long time owners of the same car on here too !
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May 22nd, complete 16 years of Omega.
;D ;D ;D ;D
You should get time off for good behavior mate. ;)
In a few years, I hope to drive alongside my grandson or granddaughter. :y
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thats great. and after owning a car for that long you will know it inside out. like part of the family that you will keep indefinately.
my brother has had his for 15 years ,me only 5 unfortunately although ive owned one of my cars 34 years !.no doubt there will be some other long time owners of the same car on here too !
I agree with you. :y
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If you don't get the bolt cherry red, then heating it is a waste of time; oxy-acetylene is necessary for that, a butane blow torch won't do it. If you have oxy-acetylene, you heat the broken bolts to red hot and knock them out with a punch.
Not always true. Heat the bolt until it's as hot as blow torch will get it. Quench in wd40 whilst it's hot. Rinse and repeat. This creates a capillary action and helps to free off stuck bolts by sucking the wd40 into the threads.
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Maybe it's down to the better weather we have up North.... ;D
We don't get real weather down here. Rain, wind, and rarely freezing temps, though they still splash the salt.
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I've just removed a pretty much new, single exit cat back system form a 2.5 facelift estate, not sure of make but is available for £25 if anyone wants it
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sorry to thread crap, but Omegod, i've sent you a pm, I can't post in the for sale sections.