Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[LC0112G]

Y reg 2000MY 3.0 V6 Elite Saloon Automatic.

Drove to the chip shop last night - about a mile. Then about half way home I had to stop at some lights. As I went to pull away, it stalled. Car is an Auto, so a bit of a faff to restart. Once restarted it ran for a few seconds before stalling again. Eventually I got it to run for long enough to left foot brake and use the accelerator to keep the revs up, crash it into gear and get home. It stalled again as I pulled onto the drive.

I then had to go out again about 2 hours later. Again it stalled as I pulled into where I was going, and was a struggle to re-start and keep going for the journey home.

Once I got home again I whipped off the IACV and gave it a good clean, not that it was very dirty.

Drove to work this morning (about 14 miles) and all was well until I pulled into the carpark when it stalled again.

It stalls whilst the car is still moving, so care with the power steering and brake servo assist is needed. The idle speed on overrun (60MPH downhill) seems to be very low too (350-400 RPM), as though it's trying to stall but the drag from the gearbox is keeping it turning over.

Never had a crank sensor go, and there don't appear to be any stored trouble codes. Of course I scrapped my spare engine last Thursday, so haven't got a spare!

Does this sound like a crank sensor fault?

Yes I know genuine dealer part only.

[biggriffin]

Shakeng has a new one in parts for sale section.. That be a real on too 

[LC0112G]

Shakeng has a new one in parts for sale section.. That be a real on too 

Yeah, but, does this actually sound like crank sensor failure symptoms, or possibly something else?

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

How old is the fuel filter ?

[Doctor Gollum]

Fuel level?

[Shackeng]

Shakeng has a new one in parts for sale section.. That be a real on too 

Now sold, was for a 3.2.

[Enceladus]

Classic 2.5/3.0 V6 failure mode. Three possible sensors, yours is almost certainly the latest as used on 2.6/3.2. They're not interchangeable, they have different resistances in the sensor.

[LC0112G]

How old is the fuel filter ?

At least 2 years, may be as old as 5. I can remember cursing when trying to get those effing plastic clips undone, just can't rememeber when it was. However, its OK at high revs/power, just won't idle/low RPM, so doesn't smell like a fuel pressure problem to me.

Fuel level?

3/4 of a tank. As above, don't think its a fuel line/pressure problem.

Now sold, was for a 3.2.

Boooooo. Trousers at half mast down the dealers in the morning then.

Classic 2.5/3.0 V6 failure mode. Three possible sensors, yours is almost certainly the latest as used on 2.6/3.2. They're not interchangeable, they have different resistances in the sensor.

Hmm, Might be an issue deciding which one then. The engine in the car is an earlier one, but the ECU is the original. Had to change the engine when the oil pickup got blocked and wrecked the bottom end. The original engine was 08491727, which went to the scrap yard last Thursday. The replacement is 08247090. Any idea if the sensor goes with the ECU or with the engine?

[terry paget]

Might be MAF (mass air flow sensor). Happened to me on a 1999 3.0 V6 manual, spent 6 months finding it. easily checked by unplugging it and seeing if it cures the fault; doing so will bring on a fault light but engine will still run. It is found plugged into the air inlet tract after the air cleaner.

[Doctor Gollum]

Should go with the ECU/loom. Did you swap the sensors onto the new engine?

Also, what was the outcome of your wiring issues?

[Nick W]

Might be MAF (mass air flow sensor). Happened to me on a 1999 3.0 V6 manual, spent 6 months finding it. easily checked by unplugging it and seeing if it cures the fault; doing so will bring on a fault light but engine will still run. It is found plugged into the air inlet tract after the air cleaner.

Both are exactly the same symptoms as mine. Unplugging the MAF stopped the stalling and poor running at low rpm(mine started doing it during the M25 Friday evening rush hour).


Replacing it fixed the problem.


Quick easy test and fix to try before getting involved in wiring or more complicated diagnosis

[LC0112G]

Should go with the ECU/loom. Did you swap the sensors onto the new engine?

TBH I can't remember if I did or didn't. I know I thought about it, but don't know what I decided.

Also, what was the outcome of your wiring issues?

Fixed (well bodged) back in the spring - once I'd got access to the proper circuit diagrams. Turns out the front seat heating is run of F15 on the FL, and unplugging the switches on the dash does not isolate the them. So once I'd unplugged both front seats power feeds (under the cill trim) F15 stopped blowing. Dunno which seat - probably the one with the lardy @rse sat in it, but not had any problems since. Well except the Gearbox, and the Exhaust, and Bambi, and now the Engine 

[LC0112G]

Ok, so based on Nick and Terrys experience, I'll unplug the MAF next. Will go for a test drive tomorrow lunchtime and report back.

Have to say I'm doubtful that's it, but it's a cheap test.

Thing is, the output from a variable reluctance sensor increases with RPM, so if the crank sensor is variable reluctance, higher RPM will produce more signal and the ECU will see it easier. Low RPM is where the problems typically occur with variable reluctance due to the low output, and that's where I think my problems are.

Admittedly I may be fitting what I know about sensors to an apparent fault, but Crank sensor still smells like the likely fault to me.

[Shackeng]

Malc you have PM

[B52]

FWIW my recent crank sensor replacement was the first for KW02 (assisted by helpful responses on here)

It would start every time if cold - stall appeared after 10-15 minutes and was always at idle or no load.