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Author Topic: Facelift ICE options  (Read 10750 times)

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Jay w

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Re: Facelift ICE options
« Reply #30 on: 17 August 2006, 19:14:42 »

thanks for the advice there.

i am now in the process of getting the subs and amp into the back of the car, not a difficult task, but i have one question.

Can i use the current 8 guage to run both of the amps? i thought i saw a few weeks ago a piece of equipment that would allow one wire in and two out, almost like a splitter or should i run a seperate power feed for the Sub amp.

Total for both of the amps only comes to approx 250 watts, and even then i am most likely being generous, the Alpine if i remember is 45/50 watts RMS and the Sub amp is rated at 500 max (not RMS)



cheers for you help so far
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Hillper

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Re: Facelift ICE options
« Reply #31 on: 20 August 2006, 10:29:45 »

8 gauge should be fine.

Use a distribution block like this.


http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1477&cadid=4f2691665ab38b36cb9015ff5675b9d5

One 8 gauge input and two, eight gauge outputs.
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Mods.  'Hillper boot release'.  Dimming mirror.  Cruise control. Rear parking sensors.  Becker/Rockford Fosgate/Infinity/Alpine audio.

Jay w

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Re: Facelift ICE options
« Reply #32 on: 20 August 2006, 16:41:56 »

it all fitted, wired up and kicking......literally as well

I think it now needs to be set up correctly regarding the gain and setting for the HPF and LPF, this is the part i am flying blind.
I understand what the LPF and HPF do, how do i establish what frequency to set them to, and the same for the gain control, how do i know when that is set correctly

One thing i noticed when the volume is turned up to a certain point the sound stops and it screeches, in order to stop it you have to switch off the stereo and start again
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Hillper

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Re: Facelift ICE options
« Reply #33 on: 23 August 2006, 20:24:10 »

Good job!

To set the gains, you have to start at the headunit and work along the signal path.

The idea is to turn up the headunit until it starts to distort, then turn it down slightly to produce a distortion free input to the amps.  About 3/4 on the volume knob.

Then you slowly increase the gain on each amp in turn until the required output is found for each, making sure not to overdo it and produce distortion.  The two amps should be done separately.

But first, turn the gains on the amps down to about 1/3 or lower.  Set the sub amp filters to low pass (any frequency around 80Hz).  Set the speaker amp filters to around the same.  

With headunit tone controls flat, and the sub out level at 1/2 (can you control that?), turn up the headunit volume until you can just hear the speakers distorting.  

It's all a matter of trial and error and finding the right balance.

Having two amps complicates things and if there are signal processors in the path, it gets even worse!

It sounds like you're overdriving the amp to make it cut out.  Start again with the gains down and work up.  It'll take quite a lot of experimentation to get it right.

The filter settings are trial and error too.  As lond as the sub is low passed and the speakers high passed, you'll be fine.


Happy fiddling!


Edit.  The pro's do it with an oscilliscope!  More neighbour freindly.
« Last Edit: 23 August 2006, 20:26:04 by Hillper »
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Jay w

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Re: Facelift ICE options
« Reply #34 on: 24 August 2006, 21:44:09 »

cheers for the info here........

i have the sub controls you are referring to, so it should be fairly straightforward

fortunatly i go out on Dartmoor to do the set up, no nieghbours and the sheep get to hear something different ;D
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