Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: 106rallye on 10 April 2008, 00:04:22
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change a exhaust manifold gasket on an MV6? ive always done all my mechanics myself, however with the lack of weekend time i seem to have at the moment, lack of tools (mainly engine crane) and the amount of overtime im being offered in work. i swaying towards paying someone else to do it.
What has other people paid to have this done? or if your a mechanic what kind of price would you charge?
thanks in advance
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Don't know about price , depends on how much they charge per hour for labour . Quite a long winded job I think , most people tend to live with it unless it gets realy bad .
If you can do it yourself it will be much cheaper . Wait untill the overtime dries up and you've got a weekend free :y
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well ive known every owner since it left the police and it started about 3 or 4 years ago lol. its now at the point where it need done asap, on start up it sounds like a .... a.... a crazy ticking thing lol
At the moment im getting an average of 20mpg so im hoping that this is causing it (although it prob that heavy right shoe i bought by mistake ::)).
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Hi
It depends on which gasket you are talking about. Is it manifold to down pipe or manifold to head, and is it left side or right side.
Alan
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Hi
It depends on which gasket you are talking about. Is it manifold to down pipe or manifold to head, and is it left side or right side.
Alan
Hi
its the manifold to head on the passenger side
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About a 3-4 hour job with an engine crane.
Gaskets are about 20 quid tops
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Hi
It depends on which gasket you are talking about. Is it manifold to down pipe or manifold to head, and is it left side or right side.
Alan
Hi
its the manifold to head on the passenger side
Hi
Thought it might be, that is the most awkward one. Despite what Haynes says, it is apparently possible to change that gasket without removing the head from the engine or the engine from the car. Its done by lifting and tilting the engine to one side to give clearance. I wish I'd known that before I changed mine by removing the head. Cannot give guidance on cost except to repeat what someone else said earlier, wait till the overtime dries up and do it yourself, especially now that you know it can probably be done without removing head or engine. I say probably because I haven't done it that way myself.
I was prompted to do mine, and not wait, because I was worried about leaking exhaust gasses burning away the head. To my surprise there were not any marks on the head at all. Having said that, I do not know how bad your blow is.
Alan
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Hi
It depends on which gasket you are talking about. Is it manifold to down pipe or manifold to head, and is it left side or right side.
Alan
Hi
its the manifold to head on the passenger side
Hi
Thought it might be, that is the most awkward one. Despite what Haynes says, it is apparently possible to change that gasket without removing the head from the engine or the engine from the car. Its done by lifting and tilting the engine to one side to give clearance. I wish I'd known that before I changed mine by removing the head. Cannot give guidance on cost except to repeat what someone else said earlier, wait till the overtime dries up and do it yourself, especially now that you know it can probably be done without removing head or engine. I say probably because I haven't done it that way myself.
I was prompted to do mine, and not wait, because I was worried about leaking exhaust gasses burning away the head. To my surprise there were not any marks on the head at all. Having said that, I do not know how bad your blow is.
Alan
Lol, with the engine shifted for clearance, its actually easier than the drivers side!
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i did the drivers side one yesterday,no engine crane,just jack and block of wood under the sump,undid the engine mounting,jacked it up and hey presto,job all done now ;D
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i did the drivers side one yesterday,no engine crane,just jack and block of wood under the sump,undid the engine mounting,jacked it up and hey presto,job all done now ;D
You dont need to support the engine or remove the mount to do the drivers side one. :y
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i couldnt get the manifold out without lifting it,but not as experienced as some of the guys on here,am lifting the engine out of ma lpg breaker today.hope it stays dry :-/
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My biggest worry would be the manifold studs/bolts snapping :-[ how east/difficult are they to remove?
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My biggest worry would be the manifold studs/bolts snapping :-[ how east/difficult are they to remove?
Never snapped one yet on a post 97 V6.
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i did the drivers side one yesterday,no engine crane,just jack and block of wood under the sump,undid the engine mounting,jacked it up and hey presto,job all done now ;D
That was what i was originally thinking but is the engine not to heavy to be supported on the sump?
My biggest worry would be the manifold studs/bolts snapping :-[ how east/difficult are they to remove?
thats one of the main concerns about doing it myself. a full can of penetrator spray should lower the chances of it happening (i hope)
About a 3-4 hour job with an engine crane.
Gaskets are about 20 quid tops
Ill prob have a go myself. is it a GM only part of can a aftermarket part be used?
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My biggest worry would be the manifold studs/bolts snapping :-[ how east/difficult are they to remove?
Never snapped one yet on a post 97 V6.
thats what i like to hear :y any special techniques used?
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My biggest worry would be the manifold studs/bolts snapping :-[ how east/difficult are they to remove?
Never snapped one yet on a post 97 V6.
thats what i like to hear :y any special techniques used?
Here is a very rough guide, might be a few stages missing.
For drivers side.
First off disconnect the front pipe from the manifold from udner the car, you also ened to remove the 13mm bolt holding the cat section to the gearbox mount bracket so you cna get enough clearance.
drop the car back on it wheels and drain the coolant, remvoe the coolant tank and air filter housing.
Strip the plenum and inlet assembly off.
Now remove the rubber hoses and bypass valve to improve access.
Remove the large stainless steel transfer pipe that runs round the 1-3-5 head (two bolts at the back which are a little fiddly and one holding it to the lifting eye).
Then remove the lifting eye.
Now remove the upper and lower heat shilds and the EGR pipe from the manifold.
Then remvoe the manifold, takes a bit of wiggling to get it out but it will come out and up.
Clean it all off and check for the cracks in the manifold (only seems to happen to plod cars) and replace with a genuine gasket, the pattern ones are not nearyl as good.
Re-fit and away you go.