Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[symes]

two mate- one is 17mm other 19mm got a sort of tin foil on them  am wondering if fuel is there -you might have immobiser issue-but try to check if fuel getting there first-

[Toledodude1973]

Got it now ,sorry wasn't thinking straight!

[albitz]

Have you tried the jump lead to engine block as suggested earlier ? 

[Toledodude1973]

yes Albitz,tried jump lead to engine/neg post  and jump lead to car body/neg post
Just removed petrol pipes and got little surge from bigger pipe then nothing from either ---throttles / relays/ petrol pump where problem
lies it seems?

[zirk]

yes Albitz,tried jump lead to engine/neg post  and jump lead to car body/neg post
Just removed petrol pipes and got little surge from bigger pipe then nothing from either ---throttles / relays/ petrol pump where problem
lies it seems?

Fuel Pump will prime (probably for about 1 sec) when Ing turned on, then stop until the Engine is cranked over, is it pissing fuel while turning over?.

If its a lazy pump or on its way out, or fuel filter is blocked, should be able to test this by removing  Fuel Pump Relay and feeding 12v to the Fuel Pump side Pin to run the fuel pump (be Carefull, for Sparks and Petrol Fumes in the Engine Bay).

Someone will need to confirm which pin or the wire colour is to the from the relay to the Fuel Pump, or you could work this out by seeing which of the 2 contact pins are presented with 12v with the relay out, then feed 12v to the other pin, or short them out.

Fairly sure there is no Fuel Cut Out Switch on the Migs, so from the relay to the pump should be a straight feed, with out any other interruptions.

[symes]

yes Albitz,tried jump lead to engine/neg post  and jump lead to car body/neg post
Just removed petrol pipes and got little surge from bigger pipe then nothing from either ---throttles / relays/ petrol pump where problem
lies it seems?

other pipe is return-that's normal for fuel to act like that-Zirk is correct-so fuel getting there then-now you need to check you getting spark at plugs-need to tech 2 the miggy- did you have odd misfires/cutting out before this non start issue?-mate of mine thought of crank sensor-his idea not mine-usually miggys play up before c/s dies--but get tech 2-if you can-then you will know exactly were issue is mate

[Toledodude1973]

Thanks for replies , getting no petrol when cranking engine, but throttles still opening/closing causing clicking noise, Twiglet is hopefully coming round with tech2 next saturday,but not hopeful as lazydocker did try with another version and had communication problems.
Charged battery overnight and got 12.7v with ignition on

[albitz]

Presumably crank sensor has already been ruled out ?

[zirk]

Presumably crank sensor has already been ruled out ?

Do what I said earlier by feeding 12v to the fuel pump and bypassing the FP relay, this will prove that the fuel pump and filter is doing its job even if the crank sensor is telling the ecu it has fault. 

[Toledodude1973]

bit nervous of the relay bypass (not good on electrics) Zirk i would need you to run it by me in baby talk sorry! Crank sensor has not been ruled out (couldnt get any fault codes due to comms error last time ,trying again soon with tech2 so might work
really appreciate help, rang up auto specialists other side of Ipswich, most unhelpful bloke wanted £40 to pick car up(5 miles)£45 +vat to possibly diagnose fault(same cost if cant comunicate with car) when i said i'll have to get car back after diagnostics he said probably be too much cost to fix car so get  a scrap yard to take it away ! This is a 62k car surely  it cant come to that can it?

[Big_Al]

bit nervous of the relay bypass (not good on electrics) Zirk i would need you to run it by me in baby talk sorry! Crank sensor has not been ruled out (couldnt get any fault codes due to comms error last time ,trying again soon with tech2 so might work
really appreciate help, rang up auto specialists other side of Ipswich, most unhelpful bloke wanted £40 to pick car up(5 miles)£45 +vat to possibly diagnose fault(same cost if cant comunicate with car) when i said i'll have to get car back after diagnostics he said probably be too much cost to fix car so get  a scrap yard to take it away ! This is a 62k car surely  it cant come to that can it?

Typical local garage attitude IMO .     . .  If they can't rip you off by just fitting a simple "bolt on " part  to cure the problem . They just tell you scrap it as an uneconomical fix.   W**k**s !
 ( excuse my french   . . .but these garages make my blood boil )

Don't do that !    Wait until Twiglet has had  a look.

Paul , don't get too dispondant  , this problem should be able to get sorted .

This must be a fairly simple fault IMO  . . .it's just finding it .

Crank sensor ?   .. would a failed crank sensor  cause this clicking throttle butterfly & relay problem ?   Any Oofers got an opinion on that question

Lastly  . . on a light hearted note  . .  62k . . .did it come from Mr. Budden  when new  . . .he usually charges twice as much as anyone else 

[Toledodude1973]

Worth every penny Al Oh when it starts! Am feeling down with it ,you're spot on with garages they're not really mechanics now more find and replace merchants
cheersmate

[Andy H]

thanks Kevin for help. When i put key in ignition slot and to first position i can detect no click or movement from purple relays:Second position rapid clicking from seems both relays and throttle housing:When cranking engine same clicking and engine truns over nicely, hope this helps Paul

If the supply to the ECU is on and off it is never going to complete its self check sequence. This is probably the main reason why you cannot get a code reader to connect.

The cause is probably an old fashioned wiring fault rather than something particularly hi-tech. I would be tempted to turn the ignition to position 2 and work all the cables around the battery, ECU, ignition switch, both fuse boxes and starter motor until you find the loose connection.

[Toledodude1973]

thanks andy, have had a bit of a fiddle around with wiring, going to have another go tomorrow ...i might get lucky!

[omegod]

Not sure what code reader you used but cheapo ones usually won't connect with just the ignition on on the 2.2 and 2.6, I have always had to start the engine with it plugged in to get any codes, just a thought!

I had non start issues on a 3.0 and replaced loads of components, dis,plugs ,leads,fuel relays....turned out to be the bloody crank sensor which gave no fault codes.