Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: steve-d on 29 February 2012, 15:58:37
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Ello peeps
total dead end now so would greatly appreciate some wisdom.
I have a 99 2.5td auto saloon elite just clocked 100k, last week my AR25 gearbox finally asked for its P45 and refused to work anymore.
Had a replacement AR35 (ebay bargain £65 79k on it) waiting to go in so booked some hols and set about swap.
Gearbox was a bit of a struggle but i have had worse and it was in and ready to run a day and a half later.
Thats when the trouble started engine started and sounded like a bag of spanners loads of grey black smoke out of the exhaust and a strong smell of unburt diesel, eml light came on shut engine down (all this in a matter of 10 seconds).
Checked for fault codes got the following P1842(2nd to 3rd solenoid shift) fuel quantity out of range.
cleared the codes and tried it again same results, shut it off had a few beers.
Started to doubt if i had accidently turned the engine anticlockwise (big NO No)
Stripped cam cover and front end checked timing all seems okset everything up as per range rover/bmw diesel info posted by others (BIG THANK YOU it was invaluable)
put it all back together same result have not read any codes on it yet i am to fed up and having a beer in the garden and lovely sunshine.
PS I am in South Devon any thoughts would be appreciated.
Cheers BD.
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You might need to get the ecu for the ar35 g/box someone will know better:-\
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ello Hoofin it
thanks for reply do you know if the transmission ecu on a v6 petrol is located in the same place as on a TD below the pollen filter unit.
Cheers BD
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ello Hoofin it
thanks for reply do you know if the transmission ecu on a v6 petrol is located in the same place as on a TD below the pollen filter unit.
Cheers BD
Behind driver`s kickpanel
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It will be fine with the original ECU (and a petrol ECU won't be compatible at all).
AR35 just has higher spec clutch packs to the AR25. Identical otherwise.
It sounds to me like the engine trouble is unrelated to the gearbox but might well be down to something disturbed during the swap, so backtrack through your work and make sure everything went back how it should be.
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Ello RobG and KW
Thanks for reply
checked over all connections all appear ok tried to start it but it just cranks over will not start but eml light flashing even when cranking.
Flatenend battery now so stuck it on charge.
Checked for fault codes after cleared previous codes got following
engine fault no rpm (engine not running) doo tell me the obvious bloody computers
transmission fault P1842 2/3 change solenoid fuel injection quality incorrect signal-not present.
Any further guidance greatly appreciated.
Very cold outside now dead battery gave up for today will be back on it tomorrow will be scanning net for enlightenment.
Cheers BD.
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:o oh oh!!!
sounds like when fitting the gearbox you turned the engine to align tconverter bolts or something?
it souns to me like you turned it backwards which is a big no no on this engine!!
you injector pump timing has moved on the chains, TB had this problem on an engine, only recourse is new chain and guides, and retime it all, easy enough to do but a pain after all that work,
hope im wrong, but fairly sure im right!!
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Ello Omegatoy
thanks for the reply
am i being a bit thick but i dont understand i have checked the timing of the crank to ip and the ip to camshaft and they appear to be alligned correctly
(No1 at TDC compression, crank locked, dot on crank sprocket in line with shiny link, dot on ip sprocket in line with shiny link, cam lobes on No1 cylinder at 10/2).
Not sure why they need to be renewed if the engine was turned backwards why not just remove and refit or is it a mileage issue.
Cheers BD.
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Sounds like the problem I had with mine. I fitted a new clutch and must have turned the engine backwards a fraction. It would start but sounded terrible, smoked like hell and had no power. I ended up replacing the chains, tensioners and guides while I had the front cover off :(
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Not got a tractor anymore but interested in this.
What does happen if you turn the engine backwards to line up the splines ?
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Not got a tractor anymore but interested in this.
What does happen if you turn the engine backwards to line up the splines ?
The chains jump teeth as the tensioners relax allowing the chains to slacken you need a injector pump timing tool to reset the timing
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Not got a tractor anymore but interested in this.
What does happen if you turn the engine backwards to line up the splines ?
The chains jump teeth as the tensioners relax allowing the chains to slacken you need a injector pump timing tool to reset the timing
Arhhh I see :y
Thanks :)
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well time for an update
been working late shift so only done a bit on the car until today. front end off again new chains and guides (still dont understand why they have to be replaced and not just refitted) put it back together and hey presto exactly the same.
any more thoughts checked all connections cant find anything at the moment.
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Did you use the pins for the flywheel, injector pump and cam tool?
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Ello elite pete
thanks for your reply
crank locked at TDC on No1 compression (verified with vac/pressure gauge after removing No1 injector) getting the right location hole for the pin is a nightmare so i used an endoscope to make sure it was located correctly and have now marked the front pilley with a tdc mark for easier future jobs.
Cam locked and cam lobes at 10/2
not sure about locking IP (did this on a Passat 1.9 TDI) have not seen anything that refers to this on this engine.
Only other thing i have not done is set IP timing with DTI i will have to make a tool to fit DTI over the next couple of days.
Any other thoughts greatly appreciated
cheers BD.
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Ello
update time checked all electrical connections one on the gearbox pushed on a bit further and clicked scanned for codes none present in engine or transmission.
turned it over it just spins over and coughs occasionally will not start and stinks of unburnt diesel.
Have checked timing again cannot find anything wrong.
Flattened battery again.
any thoughts
cheers BD
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Ello
Just been reading the engine info and came across the Crank position sensor (CKP) remember disturbing this when unbolting gearbox so pulled it out of engine and lo and behold bloody great groove carved in the end of it where the timming pins have had a feast guess its broken with an F, as the book says air gap is critical, but how do i test it.
I have put a continuity meter on it and shows open circuit does it need the pins rotating in front to generate a signal and how can i test this off the car.
cheers BD