Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 06 March 2012, 12:46:36
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Just wondering? :)
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At the front of the sill below drivers door for the vauxhall jack thats in the boot,but don't trust that for anything more than a wheel change.Best to use a trolley jack on the chassis members or front crossmember :y :y
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At the front of the sill below drivers door for the vauxhall jack thats in the boot,but don't trust that for anything more than a wheel change.Best to use a trolley jack on the chassis members or front crossmember :y :y
Oh yeah i know about jacking it up from the side. just pure interest wondered if there was one at the very front of the car so two wheels off ground at same time :)
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No
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No
That answers that! Cheers TB :y
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No,
i've never jacked up car from inserting a huge truck style jack from the front ::) :-X
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No, i've never jacked up car from inserting a huge truck style jack from the front ::) :-X
;D ;D ;D
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No
there you go Webby you got it from the expert at jacking things up inc dishwashers :o :o
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No
there you go Webby you got it from the expert at jack'dangle berries'ing things up inc dishwashers :o :o
Fixed that for you. ;)
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At the front of the sill below drivers door for the vauxhall jack thats in the boot,but don't trust that for anything more than a wheel change.Best to use a trolley jack on the chassis members or front crossmember :y :y
Oh yeah i know about jacking it up from the side. just pure interest wondered if there was one at the very front of the car so two wheels off ground at same time :)
Front cross member.
Rear is more difficult as they say that you should not jack it up from the diff. I have jacked it from tow bar attachments in the rear.
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At the front of the sill below drivers door for the vauxhall jack thats in the boot,but don't trust that for anything more than a wheel change.Best to use a trolley jack on the chassis members or front crossmember :y :y
Oh yeah i know about jacking it up from the side. just pure interest wondered if there was one at the very front of the car so two wheels off ground at same time :)
Front cross member.
Rear is more difficult as they say that you should not jack it up from the diff. I have jacked it from tow bar attachments in the rear.
S'not strong enough ;)
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jack one side, put in a support, then jack the other, put in a support.
Only safe way to get both wheels off the ground IMHO
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jack one side, put in a support, then jack the other, put in a support.
Only safe way to get both wheels off the ground IMHO
Cheers all :y taking the wheel off at weekend for practise. As I can't move Ralf yet and the drive it's parked on has a slight decline, I presume that won't matter?
Cheers.
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jack one side, put in a support, then jack the other, put in a support.
Only safe way to get both wheels off the ground IMHO
Cheers all :y taking the wheel off at weekend for practise. As I can't move Ralf yet and the drive it's parked on has a slight decline, I presume that won't matter?
Cheers.
Chock the wheels so it can't roll when jacking up
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jack one side, put in a support, then jack the other, put in a support.
Only safe way to get both wheels off the ground IMHO
Cheers all :y taking the wheel off at weekend for practise. As I can't move Ralf yet and the drive it's parked on has a slight decline, I presume that won't matter?
Cheers.
Chock the wheels so it can't roll when jacking up
Will do. Cheers mate :y
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Always chock the wheels to be safe, but if jacking the front and it's rear wheel drive auto then it shouldn't roll off down the slope. Plus the hand brake obviously.
Chocking front wheels is more important if jacking the back, as there's no other way of locking the front wheels.
And as said, take great care jacking on subframes. Rear subframe is man enough for the likes of donut bush replacent etc, but the front subframe is less beefy.
As a note, some garages jack the dif to raise both sides at the rear. This is not good for diff block bushes especially. It lifts the rubber out of the v shape cup causing separation.
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Always chock the wheels to be safe, but if jacking the front and it's rear wheel drive auto then it shouldn't roll off down the slope. Plus the hand brake obviously.
Chocking front wheels is more important if jacking the back, as there's no other way of locking the front wheels.
And as said, take great care jacking on subframes. Rear subframe is man enough for the likes of donut bush replacent etc, but the front subframe is less beefy.
As a note, some garages jack the dif to raise both sides at the rear. This is not good for diff block bushes especially. It lifts the rubber out of the v shape cup causing separation.
Thanks Chris, that's really useful. I'm defo putting it on the chassis and chocking. For extra safety the spare wheel is going under the car ;)
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At the front of the sill below drivers door for the vauxhall jack thats in the boot,but don't trust that for anything more than a wheel change.Best to use a trolley jack on the chassis members or front crossmember :y :y
Oh yeah i know about jacking it up from the side. just pure interest wondered if there was one at the very front of the car so two wheels off ground at same time :)
Front cross member.
Rear is more difficult as they say that you should not jack it up from the diff. I have jacked it from tow bar attachments in the rear.
S'not strong enough ;)
Not strong enough for what??? Jacking? Oh yes it is. Why would it not be? And where do for example British MOT guys lift the front end to check the suspension and steering? No, they do not use the jacking points on the sills.
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They use the jacking points on the chassis here.
In board of the sill edge, at the front, directly behind the the tool kit jack point cover on the side skirt is a reinformed area.
On the rear, the lift point is the centre bolt of the triangular plate that holds the rear donut bush, as described in the owners manual.
The sill edge is for the the jack supplied In the tool kit with the car.
The lift points described above are for trolly jacks and lifts.
There are no other lift points on the car.
I have seen bent front subframe cross members with jack marks on them. Best avoided IMO.
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i always jack from inside of the front sills in the middle of the two ridges just behind the sill where the front jacking point is if that makes sense-where chris says above lol....or subframe mounts for example on the rear(possibly also the point that chris said above) lol...damn you chris, you beat me to say the same thing :P
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Not strong enough for what??? Jacking? Oh yes it is.
/Panto mode:
"Oh no its not"
Thats part of the subframe, and never designed to take the stresses of the weight of the car in that direction. Its strength is longditudinal, and would be significantly weakened by the distortions caused by using as a jacking point.
On ramps, here in UK, they jack up on chassis rails.
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Ok, then I have been wrongly advised and have done it all wrong every time I have jacked any Omega up. How sad. But still the crossmember seems intact...
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I use a pair of 2 ton Trolley Jacks
Got from Machine Mart several yrs ago
They each have a circular pad I made from 22ml ply
These pads are a tight snug fit into the jack cradles
I use the chassis member just in board from the sill jacking points
One on each side
Use a similar method on the rear
Of course if I'm to go under I place axle stands under if the jacks were to fail
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Not strong enough for what??? Jacking? Oh yes it is.
/Panto mode:
"Oh no its not"
Thats part of the subframe, and never designed to take the stresses of the weight of the car in that direction. Its strength is longditudinal, and would be significantly weakened by the distortions caused by using as a jacking point.
On ramps, here in UK, they jack up on chassis rails.
what a thought TB in panto how long would that last before he lost it ;D ;D