Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Entwood on 09 March 2012, 14:33:40
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Electronic air con.... facelift, been having problems with it steaming up, tried all the usual fixes with no joy, so now to more esoteric matters ..
Got the glove box out and have checked the vaccuum valve, which seems to work fine, selecting/deselecting recirc the valve clicks and the vaccuum appears/disappears at the outlet.
However there is no sound of the flap physically moving when selected, vac pipe dissapears into the bowels of the beast ...so i can't follow it .... just where is the other end !!
Must be a corresponding servo somewhere by the flap itself ????
Any ideas ??? anyone ??
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its up behind glove box-get a torch and you should see it-its awkward but you can get to it mate
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its up behind glove box-get a torch and you should see it-its awkward but you can get to it mate
Thats what I thought .. but I'll be buggered if I can see it .. :(
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Honestly its there mate you need a torch though
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Right .. getting somewhere I think .... there are 2 solenoid valves .. one has the blue lined vac pipe that goes to the recirc valve, and appears to do nothing ... not yet put a multimeter on it......
If I suck like a bandit on the blue lined vac I can see the servo at t'other end move ... now... which is "recirc" ... vac applied or no vac ???
What does the "other" servo do as it certainly "operates with the recirc switch ??? but the pipe dissapears into the centre consol ....
Thanks for the help so far !!
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HBV is vacuum operated.. Something else too, I think, but can't remember. Will have a look at the diagrams.
I believe the recirc flap should open the external air intake without vacuum. Vacuum applied gices recirculated air IIRC.
Could the pipes to the actuators have been swapped over at some point?
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HBV is vacuum operated.. Something else too, I think, but can't remember. Will have a look at the diagrams.
I believe the recirc flap should open the external air intake without vacuum. Vacuum applied gices recirculated air IIRC.
Could the pipes to the actuators have been swapped over at some point?
Doubt is as until last month it all worked as expected !!
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Nope. HBV and recirc flap are the only parts of the system that are vacuum operated.
I find mine occasionally sticks on recirc. I believe it's a known firmware issue. Cycling recirc on and off again normally fixes it though.
OK. Let's check the wiring colours. Common to both solenoids is a yellow wire. HBV solenoid has a blue and white wire in addition. Recirc is a blue wire.
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Nope. HBV and recirc flap are the only parts of the system that are vacuum operated.
I find mine occasionally sticks on recirc. I believe it's a known firmware issue. Cycling recirc on and off again normally fixes it though.
OK. Let's check the wiring colours. Common to both solenoids is a yellow wire. HBV solenoid has a blue and white wire in addition. Recirc is a blue wire.
Thanks for that .... tried something else given that info ... simply swapping the input wires and vac connections .... seems both solenoids work ... if I put yellow/solid blue to the one with the blue lined vac pipe the recirc servo moves, regardless of which solenoid I have the blue lined vac on ... which seems to prove both solenoids and the servo ...
so it would appear to all be functioning, although I haven't tested the HBV vac side .. full cold should give full vac if memory serves ???
Thanks for your help :)
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If you have the blower motor running you should be able to tell when the recirc flap opens to the cabin by the increase in noise. I can tell mine's working from the driving seat.
Is the pollen filter clean and dry?
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Well it all seems to move now .. and the "note" does change which it had stopped doing ... I also discovered that if you select "Lo" the recirc flap automatically closes !!! Something I didn't know :)
HBV gets vac with "Lo" selected so that seems fine.
Pollen Filter is clean and dry, scuttle dry, boot "cubbby hole" clear, rear vents clear - I'd done all those before deciding to remove the glove box !!
Just have to see how it goes now, next damp night I guess .. :)
Thanks to all for all the help .. appreciated :)
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Entwood, it might be worthwhile checking for damp/wetness under the passenger mat/carpet? I'm having problems there now from out of nowhere & need to check sunroof drains, leaking screen etc. when the opportunity arises, hth :y
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Entwood, it might be worthwhile checking for damp/wetness under the passenger mat/carpet? I'm having problems there now from out of nowhere & need to check sunroof drains, leaking screen etc. when the opportunity arises, hth :y
Bone dry ... and thats a symptom of a blocked scuttle drain...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90535.0
:)
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Yes leaking screen can cause water under carpets I had it
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Entwood, it might be worthwhile checking for damp/wetness under the passenger mat/carpet? I'm having problems there now from out of nowhere & need to check sunroof drains, leaking screen etc. when the opportunity arises, hth :y
Bone dry ... and thats a symptom of a blocked scuttle drain...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90535.0
:)
Nope, that's the first thing I checked! :y
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Entwood, it might be worthwhile checking for damp/wetness under the passenger mat/carpet? I'm having problems there now from out of nowhere & need to check sunroof drains, leaking screen etc. when the opportunity arises, hth :y
Bone dry ... and thats a symptom of a blocked scuttle drain...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90535.0
:)
So can a leaking heater matrix ;)
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Everything has been checked, all carpets/soft furnishings bone dry, all vents/drains clear.
Car will be perfectly OK most of the time, but if it gets damp .. mist/fog/rain and coldish .. below 5 .. then she'll steam up ... :(
Sticking demist on clears it, but turn demist off and after 5 minutes its back
Crack the sunroof a fraction, or open a window a fraction and all remains clear ... which is why I was thinking recirc flap....
Playing around today after changing oil / filter .....
Air con compressor runs fine and switches off when eco selected as it should .. now going by the two "gas connections" ..... the "thicker" pipe, although it gets cold(ish) does not seem to get as cold as it used to.... the "thinner" pipe stays quite warm.
Question then ... if the aircon needs a recharge .. would a low efficiency cause this steaming up problem ??? The aircon is "supposed" to cool the air to remove moisture before heating it back up as it enters the cabin ... if it's not cooling enough .. is the air still "moist" ???
Any ideas ??
I'm thinking of just taking it to an aircon place and getting it checked .....
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Everything has been checked, all carpets/soft furnishings bone dry, all vents/drains clear.
Car will be perfectly OK most of the time, but if it gets damp .. mist/fog/rain and coldish .. below 5 .. then she'll steam up ... :(
Sticking demist on clears it, but turn demist off and after 5 minutes its back
Crack the sunroof a fraction, or open a window a fraction and all remains clear ... which is why I was thinking recirc flap....
Playing around today after changing oil / filter .....
Air con compressor runs fine and switches off when eco selected as it should .. now going by the two "gas connections" ..... the "thicker" pipe, although it gets cold(ish) does not seem to get as cold as it used to.... the "thinner" pipe stays quite warm.
Question then ... if the aircon needs a recharge .. would a low efficiency cause this steaming up problem ??? The aircon is "supposed" to cool the air to remove moisture before heating it back up as it enters the cabin ... if it's not cooling enough .. is the air still "moist" ???
Any ideas ??
I'm thinking of just taking it to an aircon place and getting it checked .....
I don't think your a/c is working as it should ie low on gas. It's very easy to have enough gas for the compressor clutching in & out but with not enough in the system for it to work correctly. :(
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Boot cupboard vent clear?
Specialist otherwise. :)
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Boot cupboard vent clear?
Specialist otherwise. :)
Empty
As a check .. :)
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I wouldn't expect the air con pipes to be getting that cold in this weather as the refrigerant flow is controlled by the temperature of the evaporator. In other words, low outside air temperature means it won't be doing much. A temperature differential between the high and low side plumbing means it's doing something.
I could be wrong, though. I'd wait until summer to get it re-gassed as doing it in hot weather means vac'ing it out will be more effective at removing any moisture in the refrigerant circuit.
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I wouldn't expect the air con pipes to be getting that cold in this weather as the refrigerant flow is controlled by the temperature of the evaporator. In other words, low outside air temperature means it won't be doing much. A temperature differential between the high and low side plumbing means it's doing something.
I could be wrong, though. I'd wait until summer to get it re-gassed as doing it in hot weather means vac'ing it out will be more effective at removing any moisture in the refrigerant circuit.
Temp today when I did the oil change was around 12-15 C and i set the air con at LO for 30 minutes ... would have thought that would make the pipes cold ?? Temp at the vents didn't go below 8 C , although the probe I use has not been calibrated.
Trouble with waiting 'til summer is that the in damp/cold weather it steams up so quickly its almost dangerous,... and driving with sunroof/window cracked is both noisy and cold !!!
If I get time tomorrow I think I'll get it regassed .. if not 'twil be next Thursday :)
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I'm not convinced that's the problem, TBH. :-\
I drive mine around on ECO this time of year and very rarely get problems but no harm in getting it gassed if it's not been done for a while.