Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: omega3000 on 16 March 2012, 22:52:23
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Has anyone used this product :
(http://www.holtsauto.com/images/products/repair-and-maintenance/cooling-repair-systems/holts-radflush-2-part-hi.jpg)
It says to drain the rad then fill with the rad flush/top up with water and run the car for 30 miles or so . Flush out and re fill with coolant . Ive been looking for a product that can be used without taking all the rad off and this seems to be the one ?
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is this necessary mate? flush with water and replace with 50/50 GM mix would be better?
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is this necessary mate? flush with water and replace with 50/50 GM mix would be better?
Ive had the rad off twice now but not 100% sure the core is fully flowing as it was flushed off the car ...im looking for something that will pressurise the system forcing the rad flush through the cooling fins ..just thought this would be ideal , had enough of taking the rad off ;)
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oh i see - bit technical for bear ;D :y :y :y
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Had overheating issues but the last flush has improved things a lot , but still think it could do with a few more flush through's and if i can use this product it will save a lot of time and hassle ;)
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ive used it on a engine that was stud for 3 or 4 years worked ok still had to flush out a few times with water..
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ive used it on a engine that was stud for 3 or 4 years worked ok still had to flush out a few times with water..
Thats good then , ill be thoroughly flushing the system after ive used it :y
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It sounds OK, but Sod's Law says it could seek out a leak. Not sure I would be using it to be honest, but then I flushed mine out & it flowed nicely. You don't need to take the rad out, just release the hoses.
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It sounds OK, but Sod's Law says it could seek out a leak. Not sure I would be using it to be honest, but then I flushed mine out & it flowed nicely. You don't need to take the rad out, just release the hoses.
Just my thoughts about having a pressurised system that will work the rad flush to its best while running the car when all the system is hot for the 30 miles like it says to . This cant be done with the hoses off or with the rad off the car , in 2 minds if i should use it ..last thing i need is the matrix to block up or spring a leak ::)
Shall i ::) shant i ::) decisions decisions ::)
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found this on gumtree if you want it look at the price.....http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/radiator-for-a-vauxhall-omega-in-brand-new-condition/97204014
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If your car ain't getting to hot and your heater matrix is nice and warm, i'd just leave it alone now ;)
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If your car ain't getting to hot and your heater matrix is nice and warm, i'd just leave it alone now ;)
Matrix has always worked very good TG , as for the temp the gauge seems to sit at 95-96 but i notice the gauge rises to 50 and drops back down slightly for a few seconds then resumes back to 95 ... thats the reason im not sure if the core of the rad is fully clear . Might be just me thinking its getting too hot but i dare not take the car more than 20 miles as the last 2 times the gauge went far too high , just seems the harder i push the car the hotter it will get with not enough cooling capacity to cope with the extra heat . The air temp has been quite cool the last few days and i wouldnt expect the engine cooling fan to come on but it does so something just isnt right or am i wrong about that :-\
found this on gumtree if you want it look at the price.....http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/radiator-for-a-vauxhall-omega-in-brand-new-condition/97204014
Could of done with that but not at that price :o i think the best thing is to buy a brand new rad eventually .
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At the end of the day, start the engine and let it warm up.
When it gets to 97 ish, check to see that he fans cut in and the temp creeps down.
If it does that then the coolant is flowing threw the radiator so you will be ok ;)
These engines do run pretty hot anyway tbh.
Just remember that if you do stick some flush in there, all the sludge will collect at the lowest point which is the bottom of the radiator so that what will need a clean, not the engine itself.
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Went for a drive today , 30 miles + including town traffic stops and starts and temp sat at 96-97 ish and never overheated so im thinking its settling down now ...coolant light came on but when i checked it had barely used a drop , just enough to trigger the sensor so topped back up ...no leaks anywhere and heater works fine . If i do decide to flush the rad again ill do what Agemo says and just release the hoses in situ ;)
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I used lime dissolver product on the rad.. (still original).. but to do that I disconnect all hoses from engine..
block the exits.. drop the lime dissolver in it.. wait half an hour then wash with lots of water.. you wont believe what comes out
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I used lime dissolver product on the rad.. (still original).. but to do that I disconnect all hoses from engine..
block the exits.. drop the lime dissolver in it.. wait half an hour then wash with lots of water.. you wont believe what comes out
Hmm ? I dont know what similar product we call that over here cem :-\ :-\ :-\
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Kettle de-scaler ;)
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kettle descaler know over here. if you use it will need 4 sachets.
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Kettle de-scaler ;)
Can you still buy that ? Any idea who makes it .
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You need to do a shifty round Asda
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You need to do a shifty round Asda
Took words outs my mouth doz :P
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Also think about thermostat as they can give high and low temps when on the way out :y
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You need to do a shifty round Asda
Will do a trolley dash early tomorrow morning :y
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Kettle de-scaler ;)
Can you still buy that ? Any idea who makes it .
killrock is good so my wife tells me :y
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under £2 in asda with the cleaning stuff. :y
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(http://www.homecareessentials.co.uk/acatalog/kilrock_descalene.jpg)
Job done then , killrock and some flowers for mothers day .
Will let you know how i get on ...very helpfull bunch you lot :y :y
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The best way to do it is to remove the rad and fill it with Fernox from B&Q and leave it overnight, once you've flushed it you can then pressure wash the rad from the rear to front to remove any debris/flies ect ;)
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I used lime dissolver product on the rad.. (still original).. but to do that I disconnect all hoses from engine..
block the exits.. drop the lime dissolver in it.. wait half an hour then wash with lots of water.. you wont believe what comes out
Hmm ? I dont know what similar product we call that over here cem :-\ :-\ :-\
Kettle de-scaler ;)
thanks Doz :y I now learned the word descaler :)
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The best way to do it is to remove the rad and fill it with Fernox from B&Q and leave it overnight, once you've flushed it you can then pressure wash the rad from the rear to front to remove any debris/flies ect ;)
Dam i went in there yesterday , i really dont want to take the rad off again so im thinking if i disconnect the hoses on the car and block them up then fill with the fernox or limescale remover and leave overnight then flush it all with a hosepipe . I already pressure washed the fins from front to back ;)
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The best way to do it is to remove the rad and fill it with Fernox from B&Q and leave it overnight, once you've flushed it you can then pressure wash the rad from the rear to front to remove any debris/flies ect ;)
Dam i went in there yesterday , i really dont want to take the rad off again so im thinking if i disconnect the hoses on the car and block them up then fill with the fernox or limescale remover and leave overnight then flush it all with a hosepipe . I already pressure washed the fins from front to back ;)
That'll be OK! :y :y
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Fernox , its not cheap is it or am i looking at the wrong place . B&Q dont seem to stock it . :-\
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-heavy-duty-central-heating-cleaner-500ml/51463
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here you go :y
http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing/plumbing-supplies/central_heating_chemicals/-specificproducttype-corrosion_proofer/Fernox-MB1-Corrosion-Proofer-9271221
yes expensive but the best out there "you get what you pay for " :y
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oooppps forget that link :-[
thats for corrosion protection :-[
but fernox is the best :y
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So this stuffs no good then
(http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image/ae235?$p$&layer=0&size=281,281&layer=1&size=281,281&src=ae235/51463_P)
;)
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thats the right stuff :y
can get it from screwfix
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thats the right stuff :y
:y
Just seen some central heating cleaning stuff at B&Q but its not fernox but it is cheaper .http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing/plumbing-supplies/central_heating_chemicals/PlumbSure-Central-Heating-Cleaner-11478253
Need to get my shopping shoes on :y
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that should be fine ;)
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Is this the longest rad flush thread in the world? ::) ::) ::)
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Is this the longest rad flush thread in the world? ::) ::) ::)
;D ;D ;D Just making sure ...will sign off now :-X ;D
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Is this the longest rad flush thread in the world? ::) ::) ::)
Possibly would be if it had been started by Carlsberg..... ;D
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Is this the longest rad flush thread in the world? ::) ::) ::)
Possibly would be if it had been started by Carlsberg..... ;D
that's an idea ........... maybe flush using Carlsberg!! ;) :y :y
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that's an idea ........... maybe flush using Carlsberg!!
breathalysed for fun with the fumes coming off the car ;D ;D ;D
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Do you have any indication of what material might be causing the blockage?
Oil cooler failures result in lots of oil being distributed around the system.
General neglect (including repeated topping up with tap water instead of fitting a new HBV) results in calcium and corrosion products blocking the system.
If you need to shift oil then use a non-foaming detergent (eg traffic film remover).
If you need to shift calcium or corrosion then consider using a flushing solution but be aware that the active ingredient is an acid. It attacks scale (calcium and corrosion) first but will attack clean metal too.
If you are not sure which you need then try a detergent flush first as it won't do any harm (and it will make a later acid flush more effective too :y)
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Do you have any indication of what material might be causing the blockage?
Oil cooler failures result in lots of oil being distributed around the system.
General neglect (including repeated topping up with tap water instead of fitting a new HBV) results in calcium and corrosion products blocking the system.
If you need to shift oil then use a non-foaming detergent (eg traffic film remover).
If you need to shift calcium or corrosion then consider using a flushing solution but be aware that the active ingredient is an acid. It attacks scale (calcium and corrosion) first but will attack clean metal too.
If you are not sure which you need then try a detergent flush first as it won't do any harm (and it will make a later acid flush more effective too :y)
I changed the HBV last month and no problems there , no oil in water its always been clean . Overheating problems were for a few weeks till i flushed the system then it overheated one more time but think that was air in the system and its only had to be topped up once since so guess thats it settled down now . Temp sits at 95=96 and sometimes rises to 97-98 then the fan cuts in , no leaks ..im just going to flush a few more times using the said cleaners and see how it goes . I would say most of the stuff in the system is limescale as thats what seemed to come out the last time i flushed it , just probably never left it long enough to thoroughly penetrate the whole rad ;)