Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: astroblaster on 20 April 2012, 01:19:36
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Hi can you buy the wish bone poly bushes direct from powerflex or do you have to get them from somewere else :y
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Get mine here John:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERFLEX-BUSH-Vauxhall-Omega-B-94-2003-PFF80-902-/290623308713?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43aa7fc3a9#ht_879wt_1086
Excellent service - couldn't fault 'em! :y :y :y :y :y
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Got mine from Larkspeed :y
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Thanx Byron will give them a go :y
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I've been tempted to fit these. Are they any good?
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I've been tempted to fit these. Are they any good?
Short answer - YES. The theory is, you replace the front bush with Poly, so the wishbone lasts a lifetime - but, the rear bush then wears, so you have to replace that one, or fit another wishbone, PLUS put your Poly bush into that. One day there will be replacement rear bushes in Poly - one day . . .
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Does anybody know why they don't make the rear bush???
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It's an oil filled void bush.
A solid one would not provide the movement required.
Well, not for long anyway!
It's not a particularly good design, but I do find it odd that it's the front bush that wears badly, when it's the one that's working 'properly.'
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I reckon the front bush wears out quickly because half of it is missing! I'm not an expert but why they never used a simple plain rubber bush on the front which should last virtually forever is a mystery to me.
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It's the front bush that's oil filled. Or at least it was when I drilled through both bushes to remove them for polly fronts and pressing in new rears.
The rear bush is in effect a ball joint, but has to be a rubber version of a ball joint or the suspension would be exceptionally harsh.
Front bush has void holes to allow a solid bush to flex, or it would rip to pieces far sooner. Remember the centre spacer is solidly clamped to the subframe bracket by the bolt. It can't twist with the wishbone. So the rubber bush has to twist arounfpd the spacer.
Poly bushes get round this with a bush that's not fixed to the centre spacer, so is far less stressed, and only has to absorb shock in one direction with one density to suit.
Hth
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Thanks for the info chrisgixer, I did not know that but can now understand why there is a void.
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Are there not other cars on the Market, with similar designed wishbone/bush system where poly bushes are available???
But like you say, it would make it a lot harsher so I guess I would rather change the rear bush every few years rather than have a car that's not nice to drive. After all, there are many reasons why we love these cars and for many, while we would want it to have accurate and responsive steering and braking, we still love the comfort level.
Drifters, track dayers and boy racers may not agree but for me, there lays the compromise between comfort and handling.... IMHO.... :y
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Are there not other cars on the Market, with similar designed wishbone/bush system where poly bushes are available???
But like you say, it would make it a lot harsher so I guess I would rather change the rear bush every few years rather than have a car that's not nice to drive. After all, there are many reasons why we love these cars and for many, while we would want it to have accurate and responsive steering and braking, we still love the comfort level.
Drifters, track dayers and boy racers may not agree but for me, there lays the compromise between comfort and handling.... IMHO.... :y
The way I see it, that's partly why they fail as often as they do. GM engineers designed in so much comfort for the passengers, ESP on Elites, think Chaufer driven cars, that the driver suffered lack of accuracy and precision from the car. Bushes are the same across the range obviously, but there is a lot of damping designed into the original bush, ESP the front. It actually forms part of the suspension damping itself, given the triangular positions of the key pivot points, and dependant on wishbone angle, when wheel hits a bump the bush takes some of the damping in a horizontal ish direction.
Bushes take a hell of a pounding. With soft suspension they have to deal with a lot of suspension travel(think chineses burn on your arm) braking forces of a two ton car(toe out on the brakes) heat from the emgine and cold salt and shite in all weathers on the rubber in winter... and they do all that providing comfort for the occupants by damping out harshness and maintain stub axle position or the steering will do all sorts of very odd things.
Ps, if you find any other bushes that will work please let us know, but powerflex only have one vertical ball joint bush design in progress in poly. It's far from a simple solution.
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Chris,
I know what that poor little bush goes through and the environment he lives in but,
I'm sure I was looking for bushes a while ago.... For another car.... and I found a company that make them to order/design.... Just gotta remember who it was???? Bugger....
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Had some vague handling on the car over the last few days. Found the off-side wishbone ball joint was shot. So this evening I removed the wishbone, ground off the rivets, bolted on the new ball joint and all is well again.
Whilst the wishbone was off I checked the poly-bushes I fitted about two years ago. They're still like new. :y
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Becoming more common I think Turk.
Wb ball joints don't seem to last for two sets of normal bushes, they certainly won't see out polys. But needs must and all that.
...and poly can easily be re used. :)
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Though written for the Catera this article applies to the Omega too.
UPDATED: 11-21-11
I originally began this as a hunt for suspension bushings that would last longer than the originals. Worn or damaged front suspension bushings will cause the car to "tramline" (follow cracks and grooves in the road), cause the control arms to make thumping noises going over bumps, shake the car violently upon braking, and really chew up the tires. I soon discovered how many suspension upgrades were available for the Catera and how, with a few aftermarket improvements, we could breathe new life into our cars. We can't do much about the Catera's weight except maybe lighter wheels and mufflers. And we can only dream of a V8 engine and manual transmission but we can do something about the ride and handling.
Of course it takes more than new bushings to make a Catera handle. Firm dampers and stiff short springs are key. The dampers keep the tires pressed to the road. The shorter springs lower the car's center of roll and, being stiffer, help the anti-sway bars reduce lean in the turns. Together the new dampers, springs, and bushings improve handling but usually at the expense of ride quality, meaning a harsher ride. Not necessarily uncomfortable, just that sharp bumps might be more noticeable.
Naturally good high performance tires are needed to finish the transformation. The car magazines do a great job of testing and comparing tires, on a racetrack usually using a BMW M3, so I won't attempt to second guess them. Read the tire tests, make your choice, and use an empty parking lot to do a little testing of your own. Set up a slalom and skidpad and see how they feel. Find their limits but avoid "drifting". The local Police and mall cops are not big fans. Choose a coast or mountain road and see how they work in the real world. I do recommend dedicated high performance summer and winter tires to extract the most from your Catera. All season tires are a compromise. Why go to all the trouble and expense of improving the suspension then use tires that can't deliver on the suspension's promise?
During its last 3 years of production Cadillac gradually upgraded the Catera's suspension to what it should have been all along. A "Catera MV6". A true Sport Sedan that encourages its driver to hunt for the squiggly lines on the map instead of the straight ones. In 1999 they unveiled the Catera Sport which used an intermediate version of the Omega's MV6 suspension. That version became the Catera's base suspension in 2000 while the Sport used the full MV6 tune. Of course a Catera will never out handle a BMW, or even an Omega MV6, because of its excess weight but given an upgraded suspension and performance tires she will impress you.
Though technically not part of the suspension, the brakes could use some improvements to go keep pace with your newly improved handling. Luckily the last Pontiac GTO and the Catera shared some Opel ancestry. The dual piston front calipers & brake hoses from the 2004 Pontiac GTO are a straight bolt-on. A big improvement over the Catera's smaller single piston units. Combine them with slotted performance discs, aftermarket steel braided brake hoses, and C5 Corvette high performance brake pads. You'll have all the braking power you'll ever need. At the rear the Catera has dual opposed piston calipers and solid discs. During the last half year of production they were upgraded by the factory to thicker vented discs and wider calipers to accommodate them. I'll upgrade the rear brakes on my Catera Sport as soon as I find the cash. Of course like most cars today the Catera has 4 wheel ABS braking. What many don't have, and the Catera does, is Traction Control that prevents rear wheel spin on slippery surfaces by applying the brakes to the spinning wheels.
Discover just how much fun your Catera can be. The following chapters tell how we can improve any Catera's handling performance and challenge the German sport sedan crowd.
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FRONT SUSPENSION
The Catera's front control arm bushings are prone to tearing from "normal wear & tear", improper installation, or both. When they tear the wheels lose their alignment (both camber and toe) and tire wear increases. Another symptom is "Tram-lining". That's the tendency of the tires to follow cracks or grooves in the road surface. The scariest symptom a violent shaking when braking. It feels like warped brake rotors but it's really caused by the front bushings' loss of alignment control. Instead of keeping the front wheels pointing in the right direction the bushings flex excessively under braking letting the tires flop around. The shot bushings will also allow the tires to bounce and flop over bumps and potholes creating loud clunking noises at low to medium speeds. New bushings will quiet things down to Cadillac levels.
Bob Chen, an Omega owner in Taiwan, found a bushing from the 1989-1995 BMW M5/E34 that would fit in place of the Omega's stock front/horizontal control arm bushing. They use a stronger rubber compound that resists tearing and improves the steering response, ergo the handling. Happily, this bushing also fits the Catera. While the rubber M5 bushing is an improvement over stock, there is something even better. Aftermarket polyurethane bushings for the BMW M5 and Opel Omega also fit the Catera. Polyurethane bushings resist tearing better than rubber ones. Being more "slippery" they present less friction thereby reducing the effort needed to pivot the control arms over rough road surfaces. Because of this they allow the tires and struts to react faster and absorb more road shocks instead of transmitting them through the chassis. Poly-bushings hold their characteristics much longer than rubber bushings do, greatly increasing replacement intervals. They maintain wheel alignment much better during cornering and when braking loads are applied. Normally rubber bushings would flex and compress. Poly-bushings have much less compression delay so the car reacts to steering inputs almost instantly. One issue. They might allow more road noise to reach the interior.
The Catera uses a unique rear/vertical bushing in the front control arm. Inside it is filled with silicone fluid. Under heavy braking this specially calibrated bushing allows the control arms to introduce more toe-in at the front wheels. That improves directional stability. This toe angle change at each front wheel also helps when braking in patchy conditions (dry pavement under one tire and water/ice under the other). These bushings are prone to the same tearing suffered by the front/horizontal bushing, causing their silicon fluid to leak. The damaged bushings allow too much toe (both in and out) and violent shaking is the result. New tires or anti-sway bar links will mask the shaking for a while but the fix is new control arm bushings. A re-alignment is useless without new bushings as the damaged ones will cause the wheels to misalign once the car is rolling again. So far there are no alternatives to the stock GM rear/vertical control arm bushings, polyurethane or rubber.
An alternative to replacing the bushings and ball joints individually is to replace the control arms as complete assemblies. New control arms come with stock bushings and ball joints installed. Replacing the control arms saves the cost of buying the bushings and ball joints separately plus the time and labor to have them installed on the old control arms. New control arms aren't cheap but they are quicker. If "time is money" to you then they might be worth it however you won't gain a performance kick over stock since no control arms assemblies come loaded with polyurethane bushings. For the best of both worlds you could order new control arms and swap the forward/horizontal bushings for the upgrade polyurethane ones.
If the bushings warrant replacement then the Ball Joints do too. They have covered the same mileage and suffered the same punishment as the bushings. The Ball Joints are riveted onto the OEM control arms. These rivets will need to be drilled out and the replacement Ball Joints bolted in place. Other common wear items to replace at this time are the Steering Tie Rod Ends and the Anti-Sway Bar Drop Links. New tie rod ends will take the slop out of the steering and further tighten the front end. The drop links connect the anti-sway bar to the struts. They have the annoying habit of contributing to the clunking noises over rough road surfaces. New links will help eliminate this noise. I suggest new polyurethane anti-sway bar bushings too. If you've gone this far to refresh your front suspension why skip these?
Aftermarket Camber Adjustment Bolts increase the range of camber adjustment over the stock bolts. They allow fine tuning of the front wheel camber by giving you +/- 2 total degrees of adjustment range. This helps reduce wear on the inside edge of the front tires so common to the Catera. If your car is lowered, these eccentric bolts are a must since lowering adds more camber.
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REAR SUSPENSION
Much said about the front suspension is true for the rear. The Catera's rear suspension's semi-trailing arm bushings are rubber. They too are prone to tearing. By its nature the Catera's semi-trailing arm suspension has a lot of camber which is rough on tires. Braking pulls the wheels back as momentum pushes the car body ahead. Due to the elasticity of these rubber bushings, the rear wheels will toe-out more, encouraging oversteer better known as looseness.
Polyurethane bushings resist this tearing and braking distortion. The rear wheels hold their alignment longer, track truer, and stabilize the rear under hard braking. Eccentric poly outer bushings allow adjustments to the rear camber on stock and lowered cars to improve tire wear. Eccentric poly inner bushings add extra rear toe-in adjustability. Two alignment adjustments that should greatly increase the life of our rear tires. Luckily we have lots of poly-bushings for the rear which incorporate Toe and Camber eccentrics. Those for the Opel/Vauxhall Omega, the Holden Commodore, and the Pontiac GTO/Holden Monaro.
The Catera, having a self leveling rear air suspension, is limited to OEM AC-Delco air shocks or Monroe Air shocks as replacements. They will give you a standard ride and retain the self leveling. If you wish a true sport suspension upgrade in the rear you must either use the AC-Delco air shocks meant for the Catera Sport or the self leveling must be disabled. Then a number of non-air performance shock absorbers can be used including cast-off and aftermarket GTO shocks.
Just as the front suspension has anti-sway bars with links and bushings so does the rear. The anti-sway-bar links are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace while performing the other rear trailing arm maintenance. If you want "like new" or better ride and handling I suggest replacing them along with the swaybar bushings.
One last thing. On a whim I added H&R 25mm wheel spacers to the rear hubs. Used mainly by those wanting wider tires out back, the spacers keep the tires from rubbing against the rear springs and shocks. Too thick a spacer and the outside edges of the tires will rub the fender lips so be careful. The wheel spacers come in a choice of thickness to maintain the proper 35 - 45mm wheel offset. For me the spacers push the stock wheels out giving the Catera a bigger footprint without the expense of wider wheels and tires. I wanted the wider rear track to help steering response; the "turn-in". Don't ask me how but it works. I'm thinking of adding 15mm spacers out front to see what happens. It couldn't hurt. Could it?
(COMPONENTS LISTED IN PART 2
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Some sources are American but you should be able to buy from them as well as the others I listed.
REPLACEMENTS & UPGRADES
Below is a list of suspension components I found for the Catera. Most are performance upgrades. Stock 2004- 2006 Pontiac GTO front & rear springs and rear shock absorbers will also fit the Catera. GTO front wheel hubs are different from the Catera's so the struts won't fit. The Pontiac GTO/Holden Monaro use the same IRS bushings as the Omega/Catera and aftermarket bushings for their IRS will fit ours as well.
NOTES & WARNINGS:
1) All these parts will fit the Catera assuming you are using stock sized wheels and tires. (Standard or Sport)
2) Wider wheels or wider than stock tires on stock sized wheels might rub struts/shocks and springs. Wheel
spacers may be required.
3) Any wheels must also have the proper 35mm - 45mm offset.
4) GTO rear shocks are non-air so the Catera's self leveling system must be disabled. Its air compressor may be removed to save weight.
5) IRS bushings for the Monaro/GTO have been tested and will fit the Catera without modifications.
FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
Rubber -
AC-DELCO (GM/OE) Replacement Front/Horizontal Bushing: Part # 45G9329 {#19187194}
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Factory Replacements (rubber).
SPICER:
GM/OE Rear/Vertical front control arm bushing: Part # 5651329
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Factory Replacement (rubber).
Front Control Arms (Loaded Assembly) OE Replacements:
SPICER/RAYBESTOS Part # 5071238 {Professional Grade}
Front Suspension; Right Lower; Complete Arm With Stock Rubber Bushings and Ball Joint
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SPICER/RAYBESTOS Part # 5071237 {Professional Grade}
Front Suspension; Left Lower; Complete Arm With Stock Rubber Bushings and Ball Joint
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Meyle Bushings:
BMW E34/M5 Heavy Duty Bushings: part # 31121136607MY
http://www.germanautosalvage.com/services4.html
Heavy Duty (rubber) BMW/M5 bushing for Omega/Catera front/horizontal control arm bushing.
Korman Autoworks:
BMW M5 (E34) Heavy-Duty Thrust Rod Bushings: part # 3112567
http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/m5m6susp.htm
Heavy Duty (rubber) BMW/M5 bushing for Omega/Catera front/horizontal control arm bushing.
MOOG:
part # K90137 (1993 BMW/M5 Thrust Arm Bushing)
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
OE BMW/M5 bushing (rubber) for Catera/Omega front/horizontal bushing.
Bavarian AutoSport:
BMW/M5 Upper Control Arm Bushing: part # 31 12 2 226 528
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
BMW OE bushing (rubber) upgrade for Catera/Omega front/horizontal bushing.
Polyurethane -
Bavarian AutoSport: BMW/M5 Upper Control Arm Bushing: part # N81368BAV (POLYURETHANE)
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
Quote: "Our exclusive street performance bushings and mounts are made with a more forgiving urethane formula! During spirited driving, polyurethane bushings and mounts provide more responsive handling and maintain better control over suspension geometry than stock bushings. Along with this improvement in handling, though, comes a stiffer ride -- a welcome side-effect on a smooth race track, but much more noticeable on the streets. Our street performance urethane is formulated with a touch of polyester. This new compound is more forgiving than 100% urethane, so it’s better for street BMWs."
Powerflex BMW E34/M5: (POLYURETHANE)
part # PFF5-601
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products....y=9&submit1=GO
Polyurethane BMW/M5 bushing for Omega/Catera front/horizontal bushing.
Powerflex Omega B/Catera: (POLYURETHANE)
part # PFF80-902 Front/Horizontal Bushing - 2 ea.
part # PFF80-901-26 front Anti-Roll Bar Bushing - 2 ea.
REAR SUSPENSION BUSHINGS
ACDELCO Part # 45G11143 {#19195668}
Bushing, Rear Trailing Arm (OEM, Rubber)
http://www.rockauto.com
Whiteline Rear Suspension Bushing: part # KCA384 (POLYURETHANE/eccentric) rear outer position only
http://www.globalperformanceparts.com/fitting_instructions/KCA384.pdf
Provides an additional camber adjustment range of +/-1.0 degree from base settings for lowered rear suspension (outer position only).
DorfBrunnen-Garage: Camber & Toe Kit (POLYURETHANE) / Part # 17.10.2005
2 outer eccentric (camber) / 2 inner eccentric (toe-in) bushings. Includes bushing extractor.
http://www.dorfbrunnen-garage.ch
SuperPro Rear IRS Adjusting Kit Camber & Toe Bushing (POLYURETHANE) #SPF0877K
http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/
http://www.superpro.com.au/download/4381.link (PDF)
http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/img.php?id=1107
Provides camber and toe adjustment range of +/-1.0 degree over base settings for lowered rear suspension (set of 4 / inner & outer)
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SuperPro Rear IRS Control Arm Adjusting Kit (POLYURETHANE): #SPF0877TK
http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/
http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/img.php?id=1211
(set of 2) Toe adjustment only
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SuperPro Rear IRS Control Arm Bushing Kit (POLYURETHANE): #SPF0611K
http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/
http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat9/img.php?id=2429
(set of 2) No Adjustments
INSTALLATION TIP: For rubber bushings, DO NOT torque the control arm bushing nuts & bolts until the car is lowered to the ground. The rubber will be pre-stressed when the car is lowered to the ground, increasing the chances of tearing. Polyurethane bushings can be torqued while the car is raised. Urethane is "slippery" and will pivot rather than tear.
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SPRINGS (FRONT & REAR)
Intrax Lowering Springs: Part # INT-25-1-001
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=INT%2D25%2D1%2D001&FROM=MG
Lower the car 1.6 inch (40.6mm) front and 1.4 inch (35.5mm) rear.
VOGTLAND Lowering Springs: part # 955120
http://vogtlandsuspension.com/p71/Cadillac-Catera-|-97---01-Lowering-Springs/product_info.html
Lower the car 1.2 inch (30mm) F&R.
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs: part #3867140 (Catera)
Lower the car by 1.3" Front & Rear (33mm).
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Eibach Lowering Springs: part # E-6532-140 (Vauxhall Omega)
http://www.eibach-uk.com/
Lower the car 1.2 inches (30mm) F&R.
264 Mariah Circle
Corona, California 92879-1751
BILSTEIN Coil Springs - 007967 (To Model Year 09.97)
Front Right Spring: part # FE1-D403
Front Left Spring: part # FE1-D402
Rear Springs: part # FE1-D020
http://www.carparts-cat.com/pkw/parts/artliste.asp?SID=0000992458273793018004&ID=84,3466,3861,0,1,1,1&GID=854,171&NID=0,11,121
NOTE: The site does not state whether the springs lower the car or not.
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BILSTEIN Coil Springs - 007969 (From Model Year 09.97)
Front Right Spring: part # FE1-D448
Front Left Spring: part # FE1-D404
Rear Springs: part # FE1-D020
http://www.carparts-cat.com/pkw/parts/artliste.asp?SID=0000992458273793018004&ID=84,3466,3861,0,1,1,1&GID=854,171&NID=0,11,121
NOTE: The site does not state whether the springs lower the car or not.
KW Automotive UK (Vauxhall Omega)
KW Lowering Springs (30mm Drop F&R) #25060068
http://www.kwsuspensions.de/uk/
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STRUTS & SHOCK ABSORBERS (incl: MOUNTS, BOOTS, and BUMP STOPS)
ACDELCO Strut: part # 506592 {#09192250} Right / # 506591 {#09192249} Left
http://www.rockauto.com/
Factory Replacement w/o SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)
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ACDELCO Strut: part # 506594 {#09192292} Right / # 506593 {#09192291} Left
http://www.rockauto.com/
Factory Replacement w/SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)
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ACDELCO Part # 560227 {#72119084}
ABSORBER,REAR SHOCK w/o SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)
http://www.rockauto.com
Factory Replacement Air Shock - Catera
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ACDELCO Part # 560228 {#72119087}
ABSORBER,REAR SHOCK w/SPORT APPEARANCE PKG (RPO-TV5)
http://www.rockauto.com
Factory Replacement Air Shock - Catera Sport
Monroe:
Sensatrac Strut: part # 71503 (Twin-tube low pressure gas unit similiar to OEM)
Max-Air Rear Shocks: part # MA825 (For use with self leveling)
Upper Mount: part # 903932
Front Boot & Bumpstop: part # 63619
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=3755&selected_year=2001
WARNING: Front tires will rub the struts if wider than 225/55 on the standard Catera 16 inch wheels.
Gabriel Ultra Strut: part # G56769
http://www.gabriel.com
OE Catera replacement
Koni Sport Struts & Shocks:
-Sport Strut: part # 8610-1315Sport (insert in OE strut; externally adjustable for rebound)
-Sport Shock: part # 80-2591Sport (non-air, must disable self leveling; rebound adjustment made before installation)
http://store.summitracing.com
Struts & Shocks: Firm Sport ride.
BILSTEIN (Opel/Vauxhall Omega)
-Strut - B4 Gas: part # VNE-4480 (OE Replacement)
-Shock Absorber - B4 Gas: part # BNE-2861 (OE Replacement)
-Strut - B6 SPORT: part # VE3-4178 (Firm)
-Shock Absorber - B6 SPORT: part # B46-2260 (Firm)
-Strut - B8 SPRINT: part # VE3-4426 (Firm/Lowered)
-Shock Absorber - B6 SPRINT: part # B46-2258 (Firm/Lowered)
-Boot & Bumpstop: part # ASP-C245 (front)
http://www.carparts-cat.com/pkw/parts/artliste.asp?SID=0000992458273793018004&ID=84,3466,3861,0,1,1,1&GID=854,171&NID=0,11,121
KYB GR2:
-Strut: # 334903
-Strut Mount: part # SM5285
-Shock Mount: part # SM5287
-Strut Boot & Bumpstop: part # SB101
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=3755&selected_year=2001
Strut only. Slightly firmer than OEM ride. No adjustments.
KW Automotive UK (Vauxhall Omega)
-KW Sport Suspension Kit/Lowering Springs & Dampers #20060068
-KW Coil Overs (adjustable height/F&R) #10260025
-KW Coil Overs (adjustable height & rebound/F&R) #15260025
http://www.kwsuspensions.de/uk/
WARNING: Coilover shocks are usually for track use. May be too harsh for the street.
2003 - 2004 PONTIAC GTO (aka: Monaro) PARTS:
NOTE - The following parts are for the 2003 - 2004 Pontiac GTO. Front Struts will not fit but the non-air Rear Shocks do, as will the Front & Rear springs. The GTO is a version of the Holden Monaro. Its rear trailing (control) arm bushings will fit the Catera.
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Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
Pedders Suspensions - GTO IRS Bushing (POLYURETHANE)
GTO IRS Inner Lower Arm Urethane Bush (no adjustments) #EP7023
http://www.peddersusa.com/Solution_GTO.htm
http://wretchedmotorsports.com/images/EP7023_800x533.jpg
Pedders Suspensions - Rear Camber Eccentric (POLYURETHANE)
GTO Rear Camber Kit #5403 (adjustable camber)
http://www.peddersusa.com/Solution_GTO.htm
http://www.peddersusa.com/images/Pedders%20Part%20Images/5403.gif
http://wretchedmotorsports.com/images/5403_800x533.jpg
SLP Performance: Rear Camber Kit (inner & outer) (POLYURETHANE)
2004-06 GTO: #847-70027 (use w/ #70026 lowering springs)
http://www.jegs.com/i/SLP/847/70027/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/800/847/847-70027.jpg
Energy Suspension:
GTO Rear Control Arm Bushings: 33188R Control Arm Bushings (POLYURETHANE)
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/ENE33188R.htm
Rear Shock Absorbers
MONROE SENSATRAC Rear: part # 5786
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
2004 GTO - OE Replacement Shock
ACDELCO Rear Shock: part # 560595 {#92157266}
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Factory Replacements for 2004 Pontiac GTO
Pedders Suspensions - GTO Rear Shocks:
GTO Touring CG Shock #8081 (street)
GTO GSR Rear Shock #9095 (street/track)
GTO GSR Big Bore Shock #9195 (track)
All Pedders shocks are firmer than stock to varying degrees.
http://www.peddersusa.com
SuperPro Front Strut Top & Bearing (POLYURETHANE) #SPF1590BK
http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/
http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/img.php?id=3269
The strut itself won't fit but the top plate & bearing will.
Springs (Front & Rear): (Note - Stock GTO springs lower the Catera 1.0 inch front & rear. Add this to the Drops listed)
Pedders Suspensions - GTO Sport Ryder Springs (front & rear):
GTO SR Front Coil 0 Drop #2142
GTO SR Front Coil -20mm Drop #2151
GTO SR Front Coil -35mm Drop #2275
GTO SR Rear Coil -35mm Drop #2641
GTO SR Rear Coil -20mm Drop #2643
GTO SR Rear Coil 0 Drop #7643
Pedders GTO Sport Ryder Springs. All are 45% to 50% stiffer than stock.
http://www.peddersusa.com
H&R Suspensions:
GTO 2004-06 Sport Springs -1.4" Drop, Front -1.3" Drop, Rear #50757
http://www.hrsprings.com/scripts/appguide.php?Mode=Make+Guide&SubMode=Find3&MakeID=30
Sprint Suspension:
GTO - Sprint Lowering Springs (drop 1.75"F/1.75"R) #3195
http://autosportstyle.com/shop/pontiac-2003-sprint-lowering-springs-drop-175175-3195-sprint-suspension-lowering-springs-p-63806.html
TEIN STECH SPRINGS:
2004+ GTO - Lowering Springs (-1" Drop, Front / -.9" Drop, Rear) #SKJ06-AUB00
http://autosportstyle.com/shop/pontiac-2004-tein-stech-skj06aub00-tein-stech-springs-p-40340.html
EIBACH Springs:
2004-2006 GTO - EIBACH Pro-Kit (-1" Drop, Front / -.8" Drop, Rear) #3897.140
http://autosportstyle.com/shop/pontiac-20042006-eibach-prokit-3897140-eibach-prokit-p-42698.html
GTO lowering springs.
SLP Performance:
2004-06 GTO Lowering Springs (set of 4): #847-70026 (use with 847-70027 Rear Camber Kit)
http://www.jegs.com/i/SLP/847/70026/10002/-1
NOTE: Amount of drop not stated.
MISCELLANEOUS
Homemade Bearing Tool (Removal/Installation)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJ5FkOoT5QE
Simple homemade tool to pull the old bushings out and the push new ones in.
Anti-Sway Bar Drop Links -
RAYBESTOS Part # 5451412 {Professional Grade; Sway Bar Repair Kit}
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/racatalog.php?carcode=1371136&parttype=7580
Prothane Anti-Sway Bar Bushings (Polyurethane):
Front
1.02 in. / 26 mm.
part # 19-1142 / Bracket Style B
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Rear
.59 in. / 15 mm.
part # 19-1103 / Bracket Style A or # 19-1127 / Bracket Style B
http://www.prothane.com/universal.php
NOTE: The A & B style brackets have different hole spacing. If someone can provide the Catera's mounting hole spacing I'll update this listing.
Steering Tie Rod Ends:
RAYBESTOS Part # 4012155 {Professional Grade; CHASSIS LEFT INNER TIE ROD END}
RAYBESTOS Part # 4012156 {Professional Grade; CHASSIS RIGHT INNER TIE ROD END}
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/racatalog.php?carcode=1371136&parttype=7580
Ingalls Engineering Camber Adjusting Bolt: part # IEC-I-81260
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D81260&FROM=MG
Eccentric bolts to increase camber range for the front wheel alignment.
WHEEL SPACERS - Not technically a suspension upgrade but many of you want wider rear tires. Wheel spacers will keep them from rubbing the springs and struts/shocks. They also provide a wider track for more stability in the corners. H&R Wheel Spacers - Bolt Pattern 5x110 / Hub Center 65mm [Saab 9-3, 9-5, 900 (5 lug)]
5mm DR Spacer - #1045650
15mm DR Spacer - #3045650
20mm DR Spacer - #4045650
25mm DRA Spacer - #5045650
http://autosportstyle.com/shop/wheel-spacers-c-147_965_1004.html?filter_id=47&sort=2a
I used 25mm to bring my Catera Sport's 235/45-17" rear tires closer to fender lip for a wider track. The spacers fit perfectly and the tires don't rub the fender lip.
SPECIAL MENTION
Pneumatic Suspension - An alternative to the firmer sport ride. This kit provides the cockpit adjustable height and a softer ride preferred by lovers of cruising and low-riding.
StreetRidePro - Air Spring Suspension w/compressor, solenoids, hoses, etc. #FBS-CAD-04-KIT3
http://streetridepro.com/product_info.php?products_id=3341&osCsid=9a711e68cea3c12db5a5ebfdd0decb69 >:(
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Thanks Elvin, I looked through that very comprehensive list a while back, and unless I'm mistaken there dont appear to be a solutions for;
Rearward vertical bush on the front wishbones? We have tried Merle heavy duty thanks to Marks Dtm. Seem ok, but similar life span to oe. Although said life span seems reasonable from Lemforder and Merle anyway. Poly might give better steering respons perhaps?
And rear subframe bushes. The big donuts behind the triangular plate/jacking point under the rear doors. We have Lemforder and Febi for these but standard have void holes which we are convinced give too much play at the rear. Poly are available but only from kmac in oz as far as we know, at almost £180 a pair after import.
Most of our attention has focused on the front horizontal wishbone bush. After experimenting with Merle heavy duty, and BMW m5 we came to the conclusion that Poly gave best results. Powerflex in the uk seem very reasonable priced at £40 a set plus tax.
These sort the front out nicely, but make the rear feel loose by comparison. Gives a bit of an unbalanced feel. Hence our search for poly rear subframe bushes, or poly donuts as we call them. :)
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Tried to resist, but failed. I have to ask... How's the v8 going by the way?
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I'm sure the BMW bushes are available in poly
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I'm sure the BMW bushes are available in poly
If you're talking about the front; aren't both the bushes in the same plane on the E34, rather than the Omega where one is vertical and one horizontal?
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I'm sure the BMW bushes are available in poly
If you're talking about the front; aren't both the bushes in the same plane on the E34, rather than the Omega where one is vertical and one horizontal?
yes sorry mate just re read Elvins post & looked on powerflex's web site
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I'm sure the BMW bushes are available in poly
If you're talking about the front; aren't both the bushes in the same plane on the E34, rather than the Omega where one is vertical and one horizontal?
yes sorry mate just re read Elvins post & looked on powerflex's web site
:y I thought I was going mad(der) for a minute there :)
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I have long suspected that the Catera had a softer setup than ours so some of the above may well not be as relevant.
This is highlighted very much by the Omegas tendancy not to over steer (unless US tyres are not good?) as it tends to be very controllable.
Also not that convinced by the lowering, I often preach that most of the gains found with lowering are more down to different spring and damper rates rather than it actualy being lower to the ground. This makes some sense when you think what lowering does to the dynamic geo (as the wishbone will be at a different angle in the static position). Lowering for me is more because people like the look than giving real gains.
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As with most things in life, finding the best compromise wins. Lower/wider across the width of the car improves things up to a point, even with the comparatively slight negative of incorrect wishbone position. (Too low and too wide mean the benefits get over reached obviousy.) dampers and spring rates can be achieved regardless of ride hight, but why loose the oppertunity to effectively widen the foot print v the centre if gravity of the car...? (without going too far of course)
What I find rather idiotic, is lowering for the sake of it and nothing else, by fitting crap suspension, spring cutting etc, purely because it's lower above all else. I once encountered a hill man imp looking project travelling up the m40 at an exceptionally slow 50to 60...in the middle lane I might add.
Spotting it had no suspension travel what so ever, I hung around to see it pass over a particularly wumpy section. I kid you not the bloody thing took off and the driver very nearly lost control, also because his baseball hat fell over his eyes... Obviously a trainee idiot, as the qualified idiots where their baseball hats backwards, I guess for that very reason. ;D
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As said, the first parameter that goes into the design calcs for how the suspension behaves is the ride height. Change that and you've bu66ered everything else the manufacturer has designed into the suspension at a stroke.
It's not impossible that you end up with something that you believe is better, but it'll be luck of the draw.
Lowering to an insane level should be banned, and the perpetrators taken out of their cars and shot on sight. ;) I've seen cars running around where the negative camber must have been in double figures, yet apparently someone must have given them an MOT? :o
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Trouble is that lowering does not give you the benefit you would think.
I seem to recall some rule of thumb around the ratio of ride height to distance between the vehicle centre line and centre of tyre.
Given the Omega's size your in the relms of low single figure percentages (assuming say 900m between centre line and a 30mm drop).
Most manufacturers only lower certain models for marketing purposes, and you would not want to lower to touring car levels or you would scrape the bottom everywhere.
Clearly most uprated springs also lower the vehicle but again, this is most likely down to market trends. :y
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Right, this is slightly off topic but, there is a possibility that my rig will have a contract in Oz next year.
If that is the case (we should know by the end of this month) I could possibly bring back some of the aforementioned Kmac poly's for the rear.
Of course I would have to work out how I would get them picked up but that's just details.
No cost for transporting them back to the UK as it will all be paid for via my hold or hand bags on the flights, however, I only visit the UK once every 2 months.......
Still it's a possibility, the other thing is I have a very good mate of mine from our services days that works over there and lives in Perth WA, I'm sure he could help out as well if need be.
If, and it's a big IF, it was all easily do-able, what sort of numbers would I be looking at?
As they are for personal use and I would be hand carrying, there would be no import duty or shipping charge, does that make them a bit more respectable price wise?
Just a thought or two.
Jon
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I have long suspected that the Catera had a softer setup than ours so some of the above may well not be as relevant.
This is highlighted very much by the Omegas tendancy not to over steer (unless US tyres are not good?) as it tends to be very controllable.
Also not that convinced by the lowering, I often preach that most of the gains found with lowering are more down to different spring and damper rates rather than it actualy being lower to the ground. This makes some sense when you think what lowering does to the dynamic geo (as the wishbone will be at a different angle in the static position). Lowering for me is more because people like the look than giving real gains.
Sure, it is very true that many people do lower their cars to make the look better and there are some that believe the doing so will improve handling and road holding, this is a sticking point for many "boy racers" that have the lowest, stiffest set-up possible and wonder why their skateboard has just spat them off the local B-road. While a set-up like they have is more suited to a race track, they are no good on most of the roads we have in the UK...
I have droped my car but it's only very slightly lower than the police set-up and yes... I did it to some degree because I like the lower look, a firm ride and just because I wanted to.... So there...
However, I just wanted to make a point that one, if not the main reason race cars are lower is that it brings the CofG closer to the ground thus reducing body roll.
Sure, you can fit huge anti-roll bars but that adds weight among other thing...
The main point is, in order to get what you want from your set-up, you need to understand what you're doing and why.... IMO of course... ;-)
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Trouble is that lowering does not give you the benefit you would think.
I seem to recall some rule of thumb around the ratio of ride height to distance between the vehicle centre line and centre of tyre.
Given the Omega's size your in the relms of low single figure percentages (assuming say 900m between centre line and a 30mm drop).
Most manufacturers only lower certain models for marketing purposes, and you would not want to lower to touring car levels or you would scrape the bottom everywhere.
Clearly most uprated springs also lower the vehicle but again, this is most likely down to market trends. :y
There are many very books on suspension geo and believe me.... There is no simple rule of thumb applied to this subject.
Like I just said ^^^^^ I have lowered my car mostly for how it looks but it's not dragging it's diff about and it's firm but not so hard it shakes my teeth out.
I don't go racing about, I drive quick from time to time but not haring about like a 17yo in a slammed Corsa!!! Lol...
I just like my ride and it's as simple as that....
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Lowering. Not that simple a description. A world of deminishing returns clearly. Mv6 lsc being a prime example, as I doubt anyone would deny it handles better. Firmness of the springs and body roll aside, 15 mill drop from standard gives a lower Center of gravity. Granted the roll centre is lower too, which is bad in relation to suspension pivot points. I see it as two steps forward(c of g and spread of the load through the width of the axle) and one step back( loss of roll centre position) but only up to an arguable max of 30mill. Beyond that it all goes to 'dangle berries'.
But add it up and that's still one step ahead. I don't buy the marketing story with the mv6 either. As always, all things are relative and life us full of compromise... Obviously all that has a small window to operate in. A 30 mill window I'd say.
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Does anybody know why they don't make the rear bush???
don't think you can buy them off the shelf but they can be made up, i did it so it can't be that difficult. Was advised that poly bushes at the rear of the wishbone would cause alot of vibration, but ran the idea past Tony at WIM & he failed to see why that would be the case so i made them & fitted them about 18 months ago & no probs :y
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/razzo_photo/KY8L0003-2.jpg)
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Although I would add, 30 mill is too much when fully loaded. ;D
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Does anybody know why they don't make the rear bush???
don't think you can buy them off the shelf but they can be made up, i did it so it can't be that difficult. Was advised that poly bushes at the rear of the wishbone would cause alot of vibration, but ran the idea past Tony at WIM & he failed to see why that would be the case so i made them & fitted them about 18 months ago & no probs :y
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/razzo_photo/KY8L0003-2.jpg)
I'm liking that! Do you have the dims???
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Although I would add, 30 mill is too much when fully loaded. ;D
Would that be 30 mill for an MV6 or an Elite??? ;-)
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Right, this is slightly off topic but, there is a possibility that my rig will have a contract in Oz next year.
If that is the case (we should know by the end of this month) I could possibly bring back some of the aforementioned Kmac poly's for the rear.
Of course I would have to work out how I would get them picked up but that's just details.
No cost for transporting them back to the UK as it will all be paid for via my hold or hand bags on the flights, however, I only visit the UK once every 2 months.......
Still it's a possibility, the other thing is I have a very good mate of mine from our services days that works over there and lives in Perth WA, I'm sure he could help out as well if need be.
If, and it's a big IF, it was all easily do-able, what sort of numbers would I be looking at?
As they are for personal use and I would be hand carrying, there would be no import duty or shipping charge, does that make them a bit more respectable price wise?
Just a thought or two.
Jon
a welcome thought. Are you happy to work out cost/conversion prices...? Would be most grateful if you are. These group efforts can be a real pita though.
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Heres one though, your all commenting on the centre oif gravity but, for all we know it may already be pretty low.
I would suspect that if you could get a setup with the same characteristics in standard and say 30mm lower that you would struggle to feel the difference.
And on the track cars, THE major reason they lower is so the front splitter set 'works'.....its more driven by aerodynamics. :y
Classic example is rally cars.......... ;)
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....which they need for suspension travel over bumps. Large bumps.
___|___ is better than __|__ Although _________|__________ is just plane daft
I can't show a differance ride height (= | ) with a key board, but relatively the equation is the same.
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C of g
|
Left _______ _______ right
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Right, this is slightly off topic but, there is a possibility that my rig will have a contract in Oz next year.
If that is the case (we should know by the end of this month) I could possibly bring back some of the aforementioned Kmac poly's for the rear.
Of course I would have to work out how I would get them picked up but that's just details.
No cost for transporting them back to the UK as it will all be paid for via my hold or hand bags on the flights, however, I only visit the UK once every 2 months.......
Still it's a possibility, the other thing is I have a very good mate of mine from our services days that works over there and lives in Perth WA, I'm sure he could help out as well if need be.
If, and it's a big IF, it was all easily do-able, what sort of numbers would I be looking at?
As they are for personal use and I would be hand carrying, there would be no import duty or shipping charge, does that make them a bit more respectable price wise?
Just a thought or two.
Jon
a welcome thought. Are you happy to work out cost/conversion prices...? Would be most grateful if you are. These group efforts can be a real pita though.
Cost/conversion prices would be no problem. I wasn't really going to go down the group buy route, more along the lines of bring some back each time I travel there. I would have a full size suitcase/bag holdall (Weight restrictions apply as normal) normally empty to come back with, I'm pretty sure that members would not all need them at the same time, so it would be a drip drip type affair. Of course this is all academic as we still don't know if we have a contract there.
Once that is sorted, I will get in touch with Kmac and see how the land lies.
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Does anybody know why they don't make the rear bush???
don't think you can buy them off the shelf but they can be made up, i did it so it can't be that difficult. Was advised that poly bushes at the rear of the wishbone would cause alot of vibration, but ran the idea past Tony at WIM & he failed to see why that would be the case so i made them & fitted them about 18 months ago & no probs :y
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/razzo_photo/KY8L0003-2.jpg)
I'm liking that! Do you have the dims???
Crush tubes were made up of stainless steel 46mm long same length as the standard bush & inside dia was drilled to 14mm for the bolt
outside dia of the tube was machined to 25mm
Poly was available in a round bar from www.superflex.co.uk 50.8mm outside dia but only in 300mm lengths so they were cut to 40mm long, chamfered a bit to aid fitting & drilled out to 24mm on a lathe so they were centered.
Bush housing in the wishbone is 49mm in dia so you lube the poly bush & press it into the wishbone with a bench vice, then lube the crush tube with a bit of washing up liquid & press that into the poly bush. As they are not bonded to the tube they won't rip so almost fit & forget. Expense is a touch much for what you need but if you make up a few sets maybe you could sell them on here & try to recoup some of your costs it's a good mod :y
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As simple as that????
Is this pic from when you fitted it?
Thanks for the info! :y