Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Crazycarzowner on 09 May 2012, 20:20:06
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Took my brothers 2000 plate Mundeo for MOT today, failed on a wishbone & useless handbrake. :'( :'( :'(
That said, he never lifts the bonnet on it from 1 year to the next & if I don't service it, it won't get one. So it could have been a lot worse as he's clueless when it comes to cars. I'm gonna do both w/bones & they seem quite straight forward. I had a look at the h/brake (before it persisted down GRRRR >:( ) but looking at it & studying Haynes book of lies there's no way of adjusting it??? Aparently its self adjusting? H/brake travel is rediculous, if you carried on pulling it would go through the sunroof ;D ;D ;D . Does anyone have any ideas???? Would I be looking at a new cable???
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replace cable and possibly shoes/pads
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Wishbones may well be a lot harder than you think. Not sure on the 2000 model but earlier ones you needed to lift the engine (well, gearbox actually) to get the bolts out :o
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Oh dear, thanks for that LD ::)
Been lookin on the Mundeo forums they suggest cuttin it off and inverting then new one (bolt through bottom nut at top)??? Would this method have any detremental effects???
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Don't see why it should - plenty of other cars are done that way from new.
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Its the calipers :y
Mk3 mondeos do have handbrake adjustment, its underneath the car near the handbrake lever. The rear calipers are extremely well known for seizing up around the the little handbrake arm. They can be unstuck but it will come back. Cables will probably be stretched now too.
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Oh dear, thanks for that LD ::)
Been lookin on the Mundeo forums they suggest cuttin it off and inverting then new one (bolt through bottom nut at top)??? Would this method have any detremental effects???
Pretty standard dodge in the trade,make sure to get correct replacement bolt and when done up make sure protruding end above nut doesn't foul gearbox casing :y
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If your putting the bolt in from underneath, put some stud lock on the nut, if the nut comes undone the bolt will drop out ::)
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Wish I had a brother like you Jasonm
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If your putting the bolt in from underneath, put some stud lock on the nut, if the nut comes undone the bolt will drop out ::)
Its a nyloc nut from memory but as Pete says a bit of extra can't hurt
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I seem to recall some horror story with mondeo wishbone bolt inverting, on the Wheels in Motion forum!!
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My Mondeo failed on handbrake not to long back it was the caliper had seized common as hell but that was on an earlier 2002 Mondeo MK3 i cant see that being hard regarding cutting the bolt i can't see how it would have any affect just replacing it with a bolt and nut :y
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Oh dear, thanks for that LD ::)
Been lookin on the Mundeo forums they suggest cuttin it off and inverting then new one (bolt through bottom nut at top)??? Would this method have any detremental effects???
Pretty standard dodge in the trade,make sure to get correct replacement bolt and when done up make sure protruding end above nut doesn't foul gearbox casing :y
Although I know that's true it does concern me for a couple of reasons... Firstly, as stated, if it comes loose it could drop out and secondly, most garages will charge the book labour rate for doing the job properly ::)
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Oh dear, thanks for that LD ::)
Been lookin on the Mundeo forums they suggest cuttin it off and inverting then new one (bolt through bottom nut at top)??? Would this method have any detremental effects???
Pretty standard dodge in the trade,make sure to get correct replacement bolt and when done up make sure protruding end above nut doesn't foul gearbox casing :y
Although I know that's true it does concern me for a couple of reasons... Firstly, as stated, if it comes loose it could drop out and secondly, most garages will charge the book labour rate for doing the job properly ::)
I wouldn't worry about it falling out,after all the wishbone bolts to the front subframe which is held on with four bolts which all go "up through" :D ;D
Edit come to think of it the last of the Ford escorts had wishbones with the bolts going up through into the nuts ???
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Cheers for the replies chaps, I'm not doin it till Monday, so I'll have a think on which ways best to go with the w/bones. Re. the h/brake the rear wheels are drums not calipers and per the book it does say that they are automatic adjustment but the adjusters can seize. So again I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. ::)
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If you are lucky with the wishbone someone will have been there first and put the bolts in from the bottom. If not, it's not the end of the world, just unbolt the mounting to lift/move the engine/gearbox a few inches for clearance.
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Well, that was an easy enough job to do. I didn't go the cheat method by cuttin the bolt under the gearbox & inverting a new one, as I had read the blog on it on the WIM forum. Seein as its not my car (belongs to me brother) and he has 3 young children I'd hate for anything to go wrong.
Actually doing it the correct way was a doddle, and I'd say its easier than having to cut the old bolt off because space is pretty tight under there so you'd have to use a hack saw to do it manually as you couldn't fit any electrical cutting tools in there. Anyway got it up in the air on beefy axle stands, supported the engine & box with a jack, removed the engine mounting, lowered the subframe and the W/bone more or less fell off (after a few whacks ::) ) New W/bone in, re-tighten everything to specified torques, put the engine mount back - Het-presto done in roughly 1h 10 mins. Other side even easier.
Then the B*£*$dy handbrake!!!!!!!! >:( >:( >:( That was a right pain in the bum :( As it said in Haynes book of lies the handbrake is not adjustable as it does it automatically. (Well it does if the automatic adjusters B*£$dy work!!!!) Drums were solid on, would not come off no matter how I cajoled em, even with the cable disconnected. GRRRR!!! Thats when I started to turn green and my shirt started to rip ;D ;D Anyway once I'd regained my composure I managed to eventually get both of em off. Removed the non exsistant shoes, and also found that the auto adjusters were seized. New shoes fitted cable sorted, now the h/brake moves 3 clicks MAX! :) :) :)
Retest tomorrow :y
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Well, that was an easy enough job to do. I didn't go the cheat method by cuttin the bolt under the gearbox & inverting a new one, as I had read the blog on it on the WIM forum. Seein as its not my car (belongs to me brother) and he has 3 young children I'd hate for anything to go wrong.
Actually doing it the correct way was a doddle, and I'd say its easier than having to cut the old bolt off because space is pretty tight under there so you'd have to use a hack saw to do it manually as you couldn't fit any electrical cutting tools in there. Anyway got it up in the air on beefy axle stands, supported the engine & box with a jack, removed the engine mounting, lowered the subframe and the W/bone more or less fell off (after a few whacks ::) ) New W/bone in, re-tighten everything to specified torques, put the engine mount back - Het-presto done in roughly 1h 10 mins. Other side even easier.
Then the B*£*$dy handbrake!!!!!!!! >:( >:( >:( That was a right pain in the bum :( As it said in Haynes book of lies the handbrake is not adjustable as it does it automatically. (Well it does if the automatic adjusters B*£$dy work!!!!) Drums were solid on, would not come off no matter how I cajoled em, even with the cable disconnected. GRRRR!!! Thats when I started to turn green and my shirt started to rip ;D ;D Anyway once I'd regained my composure I managed to eventually get both of em off. Removed the non exsistant shoes, and also found that the auto adjusters were seized. New shoes fitted cable sorted, now the h/brake moves 3 clicks MAX! :) :) :)
Retest tomorrow :y
;D Dam cars eh i think they all make us turn green at some point , least its sorted now though ...good job done ;)