Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Essex_Andy on 26 October 2006, 22:08:11
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Bloody b*ll**ks and ar*e just missed out on a v6 cam locking kit on e-bay >:( >:(
But I got thinking about just how many times I'll use it....
Wondering if it would be cost efficeint to buy the genuine cam belt kit, do the cam swap stuff myself...leave full access to cams and belt etc and get a mobile mechanice or one of them there mobile cambelt changers to simply fit the new belt on.
How long does it take to fit a belt kit?
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Get the DVd Andy. Best £3 you'll ever spend :y
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And im sure someone will lend you a locking kit ;)
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I think I sent a pm asking for the DVD but still waiting on a reply re e-mail address for paypal
Apologies of I havent sent a pm but 95% sure I did...getting on now and massive sleep deprivation since 01/10/06 when Max was born :-/ :)
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Cambelt replacement first time is 8-9hrs. Actual time adjusting the cams, maybe 30 mins if the belt doesn't come off the crank pulley too many times. Trick is going to be lining the cams up when you install them because you won't be able to turn them separately from the crank without bending valves. (You could even bend valves installing the cams, or other problems.)
Mark DTM seems keen on doing valve stem seals. Not a bad idea. You will need a pretty good compressed air source and spark plug adapter in order to do this in the car.
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Cambelt replacement first time is 8-9hrs. Actual time adjusting the cams, maybe 30 mins if the belt doesn't come off the crank pulley too many times. Trick is going to be lining the cams up when you install them because you won't be able to turn them separately from the crank without bending valves. (You could even bend valves installing the cams, or other problems.)
Mark DTM seems keen on doing valve stem seals. Not a bad idea. You will need a pretty good compressed air source and spark plug adapter in order to do this in the car.
Very pessimistic Theo
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I'm thinking of totally removing the belt (ensuring the crank is at tdc then slightly wound back as per TIS) and tensioners then swapping cams. If I have read up correctly with the crank, I think 60 degrees back from TDC the cams can be removed and replaced with out clearance issues.
Then letting some else (blame worthy and come back/gurantee) turn up in their van and put it back togehter
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Yeah, could do it a lot faster now. Took me 12hrs first time, but was faffing about with flushing the coolant too. Actual time on the cambelt replacement was 8.5 hrs with one meal break.
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I'm thinking of totally removing the belt (ensuring the crank is at tdc then slightly wound back as per TIS) and tensioners then swapping cams. If I have read up correctly with the crank, I think 60 degrees back from TDC the cams can be removed and replaced with out clearance issues.
Then letting some else (blame worthy and come back/gurantee) turn up in their van and put it back togehter
First bit sounds good. About someone else putting it back together for you, I would expect a hefty surcharge! Mechanic friend of mine called it an idiot fee, charging more to sort out someone else's mess. Watch the DVD, you'll see exactly what needs to be done. You should also be able to borrow a cam locking kit from somebody here.
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Only do stem seal removal when changing the heads......you should be able to do a cambelt change in about 4 hours at the first attempt.
Robin Hood is on holiday this week and hence why you have probbly not yet heard anything, should be back this weekend.
60deg before TDC is the correct place to set the crank if changing cams as no pistons are at TDC, if doing this, watch the cam pulleys as they realy snatch round when the belt comes off.
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Only do stem seal removal when changing the heads......you should be able to do a cambelt change in about 4 hours at the first attempt.
Robin Hood is on holiday this week and hence why you have probbly not yet heard anything, should be back this weekend.
60deg before TDC is the correct place to set the crank if changing cams as no pistons are at TDC, if doing this, watch the cam pulleys as they realy snatch round when the belt comes off.
Why do the stem seals care if the head is off or not? If you have access to an air compressor with a tank, they should be easy enough to do at that point. If you're doing the cambelt it's unlikely that you'll ever have the heads off. Or is it that you never really need to change them on these engines, but it is so easy and cheap with the heads off that it is crazy not to? Or is the valve spring compressor expensive/PITA?
As a point of curiosity, how do you line everything back up enough at 60 deg BTDC so that you can rotate it to TDC?
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I think you line the crank at 60degress before TDC then remove cams. Then refit the cams without worry of clearance issues. You then line the camwheels to the required marks and lock. Then wind crank to tdc...fit belt and all done.
Not sure how accurate my description is...I'm just trying to think it through logically :-/ ;D
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Thats correct, you line the cam up to the rough markings on the backing plate and lock them with the locking tools, then rotate the crank to TDC and lock it and procede as normal.
The stem seals rarely fail but, if you are fitting new heads its well worth stripping them and cleaning the valves etc, lapping them in and fitting new seals while you are at it. Then check the valves are sealing before fitting using parafin or similar on the combustion bowls. You dont want to fit a head only to find out its a duff one!
Changing them in situ on a multivalve head is a REAL pain in the arse (its bad enough removing/fitting the collets with the head off!).......it needs specialist kit because the valves are at the bottom of quite a long bore....
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I think you line the crank at 60degress before TDC then remove cams. Then refit the cams without worry of clearance issues. You then line the camwheels to the required marks and lock. Then wind crank to tdc...fit belt and all done.
Not sure how accurate my description is...I'm just trying to think it through logically :-/ ;D
I would hope that someone has thought it through and that is the most logical way to do it. However, it's worth asking the question in case it isn't that logical! ;) ;D
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LOL!!
Tell me about it....vehicle manufacturers seem to hate the home mechanic and throw the odd low-ball in there!!
I never say only a 2 hour job any more.....now its "as long as it takes"
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Robin Hood is on holiday this week and hence why you have probbly not yet heard anything, should be back this weekend.
Just got back, watch your inbox Andy. ;)